Clean & Flatten Dirty Old Oils Stones - Old School Method
Вставка
- Опубліковано 24 сер 2024
- If this video is helpful to you please donate: www.paypal.com...
How I cleaned and flattened four old oil stones and got them ready for years of service once again. This is the old school way, but produces good results. I only used things I had in the workshop
No special tools needed.
Link to information about the Carborundum Company:
www.referencef...
Good video. I wonder how many people, when they take up wood working, have no idea that they'll spend as much time honing and learning about honing. Dark art.
Sharp tool is a safe n good tool 👍.
The tricky part about sharpening is there's a lot of ways to make stuff sharp. But there's not many ways to efficiently make things sharp. It's that efficiency that you have to strive for too. Once you're sharpening efficiently then you won't be spending a lot of time sharpening. You can sharpen something freehand on an old oil stone. But it's far from the most efficient method. About as far as you can get.
Useful video Matthew - thanks. Re. your comments from the back of the box, around 3:40: "aloxide" is of course just aluminium oxide abrasive, in contrast to silicon carbide (aka "carborundum") which you mentioned earlier. The classic oilstones with those are Norton India (aluminium oxide) and Norton Crystolon (silicon carbide).
I remember watching my grandfather, about 60 years ago, soaking his stone in petrol for a couple of days. After he took it out, he set light to it and let all the petrol and dissolved oil burn off. He would then reface it on a thick glass sheet using some sort of fine sand. He came from along line of cabinet makers and his tools were always razor sharp. I have never tried his method but have had good results soaking in caustic soda for a few days, followed with a good long soak in a degreaser [I use [Elbow Grease brand]. I level the stone on 4" wide emery belt stuck onto a 3 foot long granite strip with double sided tape. Works a treat, and even if the stone has always been used with oil, I can usually use with water after this treatment. Some [not all] stones, just seem to work better with water.
Forgot to say, I use the Elbow Grease sprayed onto the emery to act as a lubricant as I level out the stone.
Tool steel has changed over the years. The tools your grandfather had weren't alloy tool steel. His tools just weren't as hard as tools are now. So the stones he used aren't as effective with modern tools either.
Greetings sir Matthew... Dawn dishwashing liquid is very effective at cutting grease and oil. If you want to use it to clean a stone just make sure the stone can handle soap and water soak, then keep changing the water and rinsing the stone until no more soap is present. Allow water to dry out completely, then use oil of choice. A friend of mine here on YT , his channel is Fun in the woods, Really Big Monkey 1 uses non gumming cylinder honing oil, he's a machinist and fabricates much of his own camping equipment. Great video. I use DMT Continuous Surface bench diamond plates and Spyderco bench stones for sharpening. They don't dish and can be easily cleaned with Bar keepers friend cleanser, a non metallic abrasive pad ,water, and allowed to completely dry before storage, water to lubricate if desired
A tip at 6:34: when you're pouring from a full container, orientate it so the opening's at the top (or to one side if it's partly empty). It'll "glug" a lot less, allowing you to pour more slowly, with less spillage and better control.
Good tip, I'll try it next time I fill my lawn mower. Keep safe.
You can actually use the Paraffin as a lubricant during sharpening, which seems counter-intuitive considering it`s used for cleaning the stones. I have used loose silicon-carbide powder, Wet/Dry Sandpaper, and Diamond plates to flatten Oilstones. All of it worked, with varying degrees of speed. I prefer the Wet/Dry Sandpaper cause it`s the least messy and doesn`t destroy my diamond plates. Thanks for the video, I enjoyed your calm manner of speaking and the matter of fact discussion of your method.
Danke. Thank you for your comment and new information. I enjoyed looking at your channel. Keep safe.
Yes I also use paraffin as lubricant on oil stones as it is a very refined oil. In South Africa it is also call Lamp oil and is readily available. There will be a very small difference in weight as the Paraffin washed out some trapped oil.
Many old barbers used to soak their corundum barbers hones in petroleum jelly to reduce the depth of the scratches. This is in a few old barbering Manuals I've read in my pursuit of traditional Shaving lore.
Very interesting fact. Thanks for your comment.
Buy a leveling stone. Draw a gid with pencl on the stone then use the leveling stone until all the pencil marks are gone.
I realize I'm a few years late to provide useful & timely info, but:
some silicon carbide powder would've been awfully helpful here.
Everyone says you can't mix oil with water but there's a video of Cliff Stamp talking against it. As long there is a lubricant on top the steel will not overheat.
Water will not clean swarf on oil stones but with soap you can solve it. I have tried this on a cheap stone and it works as just fine.
One very efficient solvent for oil is naphtha. I am not sure how it compares with paraffin but I have used it for removing old dried up lubricant from photographic shutters and it lifts it all up and cleans perfectly. It is also generally used for removing adhesive (e.g. leather glue) and lifting stains from clothing and carpets.
It is a very volatile solvent, a bit of it spilt on your hands will evaporate in 1/2 minute or so with no discernible trace left behind. Also, it doesn’t leave much of a smell since it evaporates so easily. Given its volatile nature though, I wouldn’t put it in an open container, as it would just evaporate off quickly. One would need to fill a sealable container with naphtha, dip the stone(s) in it and then seal the container up with its cover. This would leave the naphtha in there to do its thing.
That would be something I would try, given the good removal results I’ve had with oil/lubricant.
Thanks for this informative video.
That's very interesting. Thank you for your comment..
Wow..your dad sharpened a lot!
Some people start by rubbing on a concrete sidewalk, parking lot, or cinder block. Still takes some work, but goes much faster for the coarse work.
NOTE: One of the other videos recommended doing the fine side first and then the course side after, so the course grit would not contaminate the fine side. Not sure if this is true or not. Very good video, and your method seems to work well. thanks from Canada.
Sounds like a good tip. Thank you for your comment.
I've had good luck using concrete drive or side walk - it worked but you need to use the old ones
Wet-dry sandpaper will stick to glass with water. A silicone mat or rubber shelf liner or wet cloth will hold the glass in place.
Good tips, thanks for your comment.
6:45 Here in the states, we dye our kerosene and fuel oil so that the govt can nab truck drivers who use it as an alternative to diesel fuel in their trucks. Diesel has a road tax added to it that is waved on home heating oils such as fuel oil and kerosene which is why the dye is added. When a truck driver is pulled over for a "random check" along side the highway, they can "dip the tank" and see if there is any dye in their diesel. If there is, they get fined.
I still have my grandfather's stones. He had a few oil stones and actually some natural stones from before the days of them being branded and sold all over the world. One of them is an Arkansas black fine stone that is roughly 8"x2" and nearly 4" thick. It would be a $500+ stone these days but he bought it in the early 1950's for $1.49. It's lightly used and I still have the box with the price on it from a local shop in Ohio. Oilstones in general have lost popularity with the improvement in synthetic water stones. I haven't used an oil stone in a very long time.
Nice story! The Arkansas black stone sounds very cool to me, with loads of life still left in it. Thanks for your comment, Keep safe.
yeah, about the old metal cans back in the day, we're in the plastic and cheap age now
The cheapest way of flattening is using two concave stones to flatten each other. Since both need to be worn out on the same spot they cancel each other problems and you solve both at the same time. Specially usefull for those extra worn stones that would require several sheets of sandpaper to fix.
For sharpening knives as long as no light passes under a ruler at the end it's flat enough for shaving sharp edge. For razors and hanging hair test you may need further flattening.
Thiago, yes, I can see how this method might work very well. I've never tried it but hope fully this advice will be useful to other viewers. Thank you for your comment.
Turned out good,a lot of work.
odd how many tubers have a british accent. there must be 50% of total tube population with brit accent.
Purple Power will also strip these clean of oil swarf. once stripped the stone can be used with 💧 water amd or winded or window cleaner liquid which is my preferred method
Purple Power is what I use as a honing lube.
it is a good procedure to sand the edges a just little as a finish. Then the knife edge doesn't catch as easily when you sharpen knives on the stone. Also make the stone more resistant against chipping off corners and edges from the stone.
Yes, that's a good point worth mentioning. Many thanks.
They make diamond wheels you can put on an angle grinder. A lot of people use belt sanders to true hone stones up too.
Flat faced diamond stones are useful when a stone is deeply dished with high ends. first try stone on sand paper to mark where you need to remove material, then apply the flat diamond disc to remove a bit from the high spots. They work very quickly to remove material so be gentle. Re-rub the stone to find high spots, re-do with diamond disc - and keep repeating over and over. Try to rush it and you will be sorry ! It does involve a degree of skill not to either remove too much in one go, or to accidentally dig the edge of the disc into the stone. Do not use a disc where the diamond is on little raised segments or 'islands' that stand proud of the disc, as these will destroy the corners of your stone in an instant.
You will appreciate this 'short cut' if you ever have to flatten a Norton India stone.... they are as hard as bell metal !
@@bigoldgrizzly today I don't care about old hone stones. They're relics of the past to me. I still have them and all I use them for now are sharpening garden implements. So dish don't matter there. Anything I want to put a real edge on I'm going to use a diamond plate.
@@1pcfred
Is sharpening using diamond plates faster, Yes, but not by as much as manufacturers would have you believe. Given that most furniture is now made up largely of man made materials and fabricated at best, using hand held power tools, but often by fully automated processes, those who are interested in videos like this, are much more likely to be enthusiastic amateurs who do their woodworking for the pleasure they gain from the process, and I would suggest using and maintaining their 'old school' tools in a more traditional manner, and all, most likely, on a limited budget. A decent set of diamond plates is likely to set you back £200 - 400 where stones from a car boot sale are likely to be at most a couple of pounds each, and a bit of elbow grease to clean, flatten and condition them. With a few oil/water stones you can produce an edge every bit as sharp as from diamond stones, albeit at a more leisurely pace.
Each to their own.
@@bigoldgrizzly you can certainly pay a lot for diamond plates. But there's inexpensive plates available today too. I pay $6.36 for a 9"x3" plate myself. Which is a generous size. The quality of the plates I use is decent too. I don't see that many hone stones on the used market. But when I do I tend to collect them if the price is right. I did buy both of the Spyderco ceramic hones I have used. I had to pay $10 each for them though. But when I saw them I still snatched them up. They're nice for polishing on. I have a medium and a fine. Medium gets you cloudy and fine is mirror bright.
@@1pcfred
Diamond plates come in handy for flattening my natural stones ;
You should listen to Deep Purple doing this job.
You could have drawn pencil marks across the stones to check for flatness or rather effectiveness of process.
Hi Steven, some people do this, and with chalk etc. Thanks for your comment.
@@dembydish I'd recommend using a straight edge and a flashlight to make sure it's lapped correctly.
Interesting video. Maybe try some emery backed sand paper next time. It's much tougher then regular sand paper (generally called wet/dry sand paper). How did the stones treat you after you flattened them? Did you go with water, or did you decide to stick with oil?
Think it was u that told me about this method on Reddit?
Hello Matt, I don't think it was me as I've never been on that platform.
Good video! Thinks- might be easier to do the donkey work with multi tool or sander then flatten last bit by hand!
I have a 40 yrs. Old oilstone could take a while!
tip...use a pencil...draw lines on the stone...itll show the touching surface much easier
Very helpful. Thank you.
You're welcome! Please subscribe if you feel inclined to help the channel grow. Thank you for your comment.
The only way to dress that last stone will be with a diamond burr in a shaper to get it flat, we do it with out lapping stones.
Good information, thank you.
I just whet silica sand over glass and the stone will be flat.
I thought the old school method was glass and sharp sand?
I've been doing just this today. Exactly like you except I didn't clean the stone first as it wasn't very dirty but like your first stone a bit shallow in the middle. This caused me much work and I found by marking the stones surface with a sharpy pen it showed me only the ends were being worn down. So I changed tack and by bringing the stone closer toward me end on I could concentrate all my effort to grind down those high spots. Also you do not need to stick your abrasive paper down you only need to wet it underneath and it will stick to the glass very well.
Thanks for you comment, that's worth trying.
I seem to have made my stone is now totally unabrasive. It was really badly dished and I was getting nowhere with the wet and dry I was using, so I started rubbing it on a concrete slab then moved onto 60 grit sand paper. I'd also tried to get the old oil out using petrol and then Gunk. But now the stone (on the fine side) is somewhat less dished but shiny, and the chisels just go straight over it. Any help would be appreciated.
Hello, without seeing the stone I can only offer this suggestion. I personally have not used the rubbing on a concrete slab method. It seems to me that as the concrete slab wears it is likely producing fine particles/dust which may clog a stone. If the stone is not cutting and glazed over it has become compacted on the surface covering up the abrasive layer of the stone. If it were me i'd try to sand it off with 40/60 grit as you go wash off dust briefly with water and a soft brush until you reveal the cutting surface again. Let it dry before using. Don't expect much cutting action with a fine stone as it is really for de-burring and putting final touches to an edge. Hope this helps. Thanks for your question.
@@dembydish And thanks very much for your reply.
I think it would be safe to toss the old boxes, no?
Good stuff. Thanks
Hi Mike, thank you for your comment, i'm glad you enjoyed the video.
Cleaning stones yes. Flattening to achieve 0.1 degree? Your hand movement when sharpening has more deviation.
Did you use the paraffin to get out the old oil? If you did why would that be needed? The primary objectives of cleaning them and flattening them is to get embedded metal out of the stone? Does the old embedded oil needed to be removed? Couldn't you just use mineral oil as lubricant instead of the paraffin? Please let me know. I will really appreciate it.
Hello Kelly, yes, I used paraffin to soak the stones. It thins the old embedded oil and helps wash it out. I found it loosens the dirt and grime and presumably the old metal particles too. While no expert, it seems reasonable to assume that over time dirt, grime and metal particles will build up on the surface of the stone, this will make the stone smooth and take away the cut. Cleaning all this away and flattening the surface, as I see it, is an attempt to return the stone to a more like new condition where it will cut better. Any lubricant will probably work, whet stones use water, which probably clogs the stones the least and you can wash away particulates after use. Unfortunately there's no switching from oil to water once you use water... so i'm told. I don't see any reason not to use mineral oil, and see how you get along. Thanks for your comment and please subscribe.
Mineral oil is fine for oil stones - I use Johnson's Baby Oil from the supermarket.
Awesome vid mate! Who makes that giant yellow roll of double stick tape!!! ?
I know someone who works in a tape factory! That large roll is an 'end cut off' from a larger role which ordinarily is sliced into smaller sizes you can buy in the shops. Great for large tape needs. Thank for your comment and if you feel inclined please subscribe. Cheers and keep safe.
@@dembydish hi 3M make a product similar to this.
I would clean all with dawn and then lap all of them to bring back to life.
Interesting video and it did not start with "Hi Guys" which I absolutely detest. I am trying to flatten my double sided oil stone but would an investment in water stones be more environmentally friendly. I was a little worried by the copious use of paraffin. So oilstone or water stones for moderate DIY use?
I think water stones are very popular as they are cleaner to use. Thank you for your comment.
The small stone looks like it could be an India/Arkansas combo.
Thanks David, good to know.
Belt or disk sander?
Anybody that already has a sheet of glass should probably just use lapping film on the glass as their honing method. Why bother with the old stones? You basically have put into place two honing systems in order to keep one in fettle. Not really the way of the craftsman.
You could have honed every plane iron and chisel in a decent sized kit on the glass (probably several times) in the time it took to flatten the old oilstone, and the bugger still probably isn't as flat as the glass.
Doesn't soaking the stone in kerosene remove the oil and allow you to use the stones with water?
It would help. Really depends on the amount of oily residue and metal filings embedded. My stones were very dirty, probably not recoverable to switch to water Some stones work better with water than oil and vice versa. I have very little experience with water stones. Suggest there's no reason not to try and see how it works. Water stone purists would probably disagree. Thanks for your comment.
Hello maybe you know what grit is on small stone (red/white) ? Maybe You know name of it?
Hello Raimundas, I am sorry I don't remember exactly. It was a combination stone, and of a medium and fine grit. Can't be more specific than that. Thank you for your comment.
Where can i get thick flat glass like that?
Thank you very much !
Hello, I got mine glass from a double glazing shop who also cut glass for window repairs. It was a spare piece they found in the skip where they throw the extras into. A piece of granite counter top, a leaf from a glass table top, a quality chopping board or laminated plywood or particle board could possibly all work too. I hope that helps you, thank you for your comment.
@@dembydish
just a word about glass table tops, these are usually made with specially tempered impact resistant glass, and are prone to completely shattering if you try to cut them down in size. Solution ... find a small one
I get granite waste from an ornamental stone mason for free - worth a try.
I only ever knew paraffin as wax, i have a paraffin wax bath that heats the wax for different uses. Thia paraffin you are using is it the highly refined mineral oil used in cosmetics and medicine or the paraffin used as a fuel? please can you tell the brand, and composition of the product you are using, please? another thing you do not recommend in the video to wear breathing protection? help, thank you ns
Hello Dr. CDS, this paraffin is the type formally used in paraffin heaters as fuel very common in the UK in the 70s. It used to be identified by its colour usually blue or pink. Today it is available from hardware stores and B&Q where I purchased this quantity in a white canister similar to the type white spirit is sold in. It is much more expensive than it used to be due to limited needs. It seems they no longer bother to colour it for sales purposes. I'll check the actual brand for you and let you know. It doesn't smell to much, but wearing a mask is appropriate. Thank you for your comment.
@@dembydish that is funny, kerosene substitute, i was considering the engine parts cleaner GUNK which you mix with kerosene. i have de-greased engine heads with this. But it is brutal stuff, turn your hands into rocks. ant further info is appreciated. thank you ns
@@dr.crazysdallekstudio8585 Hi Dr. CDS, I've found the Paraffin I used in this video, it's called Bartoline, Premium Paraffin, BS2869.C1. The one I purchased came in a white container and is currently available on eBay and Homebase in the UK. I hope this helps. Thank you for your comment and if you feel inclined... please subscribe.
You don't need to wear gloves with paraffin is good for the skin especially if you have eczema
Yes, I hear it's in a lot of skin care products 🙂
The safety data sheet for Bartoline Premium Paraffin says "Not to be used for cleaning skin as this may lead to skin disorders"
@@axeleast8632 well I have handle paraffin kerosene for cleaning never worn gloves never had any issue might be a different grade for cosmetic use not sure.
@@axeleast8632 Paraffin for skin care is much more refined type of paraffin. Basic paraffin in turn is refined kerosine. That's how I understand it.
IMHO - why even spend any time scrubbing em, down, just soak em for a good while then go straight to lapping em flat. Just my 2 cents is all. Cheers
because he is British, and we have a saying “if a job is worth doing, it is worth doing well”