Great vid Kev, the TLR is coming aloing nicely! With the old decals, try warming them up with a heat gun on low, just to soften the vinyl and they may just be ok, give it a try, it's worked for me in the past. Keep posting mate, really enjoy your laid back way of talking and explaining things I lived in Perth from '83 to '86 and being a young 25 year old Kiwi bloke absolutely loved the place. It's great see the vids on the roads you film... brings back good memories!
Perth has grown a lot but the back roads are still the same. Thanks for the tip about the decals. I stuck the right hand tank decal on first dry after struggling to peel the backing tapes off. The left hand decal I used the wet method in case I didn't get the postion right and it went well. Then the big "R" decals on the fairings was a complete disaster. I just couldn't peel the backings' off without the decal peeling apart....The Rim stickers went really well with soapy water and the the hair dryer to remove the water and any air bubbles but I must admit I didn't think about preheating the old decals before peeling... thanks.
I always wanted a Yellow or a Blue/White version of this beast. I always knew these were kinda meh compared to the other Litre bikes of the same period but I just LOVE that 1000cc high compression 90* V Twin roar. Keep up the good work and nursing that beautiful relic. 😎👍
Thank you. It's certainly a lot safer now. But yesterday on a fast back country road the rear suspension was giving me blurred vision because of the rough ride. Got to fix this.
Pls research chain slack for the tlr. It's crucial for setting rear suspension on this bike. Too tight and it binds making the shock feel hard but it's the chain at the end of its length messing up the travel of the swing arm.
I have an 03 SV1000N . . . and it's a TOTAL SHIT SHOW OF SCIENCE AND BLACK MAGIC just to adjust the drive chain w/o getting it too tight or too loose by the time you tighten your big axle nut to final torque. 🤦♂️😞
@@GIGABACHI What side is your axle nut? Right hand side or left hand side next to the sprocket? I just noticed this TLR the axle nut was on the right. My busa is on the left and the final adjustment moves on the busa. But the TLR with the axle nut on the right gave me no problems. Another guy told me in the comments and he was spot on.
Nice old bike KJ. I really liked the ride on the Firestorm and in particular a friends VTR SP2 The vtwin would make a great track engine, (still prefer the Busa engine😜)
I know you're right! But maybe with some changes the TLR could be fun on the road and some track days. Yesterday I took it out the back roads and it blurred my vision on the bumps which I know on my silver gen1 busa would not have been a problem... but the TLR is lighter and a lot shorter so it's obviously more agile. Doesn't head shake over the bumps so that's a good thing..... 😂
10:11 I have an SV 1000 ,cerrozeria forged aluminium wheels and an ohlins rear shock, TL front forks,,galfer discs all round,,all bought from eBay for reasonable price,,, good source takes time 😢☘️☘️☘️☘️☘️ from northern Ireland 👌on my K6GSXR i turned the axle and blocks around RHS tightening now doesn't shift the settings,, and my SV 👍
So glad you could confirm this for me.....When refitting the back wheel with the new tyres I noticed that the axle nut was on the right hand side and my silver busa is on the left. And I thought, which way is better or doesn't it matter so I carried on, feed the axle in from the left, adjusted the chain and tightened everything up and noticed that it didn't have a variation of tension in the chain slack- it stayed the same as I had adjusted it...So thanks mate for confirming this, I appreciate the info! I'll swap the busa axle around too ☺
Yes, it leaked already! Before our winter break here I took the TLR for a country run, (the owner rode his new bike and I rode the TLR) and by the time we got back the o-ring was leaking. Luckily he is a motor mechanic so a new one was fitted properly and it's good so far....
On the back of each caliper is the stainless steel pad cover bolted into position by two allen bolts. The job of this stainless cover is to put pressure on the top edge of the pads to try and stop the pads from see-sawing on the one pin in the middle of the pad. When the pad rocks back and forth the pad touches the claiper at each end. That's what you hear, each end of the steel backing plate of the pad hitting the caliper housing at each end. That's what I've found on my busa.
@@oldpop2042 It's a symptom of a relatively long pad with a pivot in the middle, not a great design I reckon. Try and get the stainless steel cover to put more pressure on the pad or like I've done, change the calipers to something else. I hope that helps.
Those rotary dampers aren't very good on normal roads, my tl1000s over worked itrear tyre because the rotary damper wasn't uniform in action.....I bought my bike new in 1997, actually really liked it.
I also hear the TLS would overheat the damper more easily than the TLR because it's tucked further in on the bike. Sounds like we need to buy a fancy new aftermarket rear shock that works! 🙂
Great vid Kev, the TLR is coming aloing nicely!
With the old decals, try warming them up with a heat gun on low, just to soften the vinyl and they may just be ok, give it a try, it's worked for me in the past.
Keep posting mate, really enjoy your laid back way of talking and explaining things
I lived in Perth from '83 to '86 and being a young 25 year old Kiwi bloke absolutely loved the place. It's great see the vids on the roads you film... brings back good memories!
Perth has grown a lot but the back roads are still the same. Thanks for the tip about the decals. I stuck the right hand tank decal on first dry after struggling to peel the backing tapes off. The left hand decal I used the wet method in case I didn't get the postion right and it went well. Then the big "R" decals on the fairings was a complete disaster. I just couldn't peel the backings' off without the decal peeling apart....The Rim stickers went really well with soapy water and the the hair dryer to remove the water and any air bubbles but I must admit I didn't think about preheating the old decals before peeling... thanks.
I always wanted a Yellow or a Blue/White version of this beast.
I always knew these were kinda meh compared to the other Litre bikes of the same period but I just LOVE that 1000cc high compression 90* V Twin roar.
Keep up the good work and nursing that beautiful relic. 😎👍
Same here! I always had tunnel vision of the inline fours but the TLR sounded better!
Nice TLR ! I just finished mine after 7 years building it! I need new tires also!
Your TLR must be absolutely awesome....congratulations on your hard work!
Coming along nicely!
Thank you. It's certainly a lot safer now. But yesterday on a fast back country road the rear suspension was giving me blurred vision because of the rough ride. Got to fix this.
I fitted a Bitubo rear shock to mine, works a treat
@@paulwatts3362 thanks, I don’t know much about Bitubo. I’ll have to check them out and see what is available in Australia. More great info!
Wow good one👍🏻👍🏻
@@CC-Australia About time my number 1 subscriber said something! Thank you ☺️
Pls research chain slack for the tlr. It's crucial for setting rear suspension on this bike. Too tight and it binds making the shock feel hard but it's the chain at the end of its length messing up the travel of the swing arm.
Thanks mate for that info. I'll be very careful with that chain adjustment. Good to know.
I have an 03 SV1000N . . . and it's a TOTAL SHIT SHOW OF SCIENCE AND BLACK MAGIC just to adjust the drive chain w/o getting it too tight or too loose by the time you tighten your big axle nut to final torque. 🤦♂️😞
@@GIGABACHI What side is your axle nut? Right hand side or left hand side next to the sprocket? I just noticed this TLR the axle nut was on the right. My busa is on the left and the final adjustment moves on the busa. But the TLR with the axle nut on the right gave me no problems. Another guy told me in the comments and he was spot on.
Nice old bike KJ. I really liked the ride on the Firestorm and in particular a friends VTR SP2 The vtwin would make a great track engine, (still prefer the Busa engine😜)
I know you're right! But maybe with some changes the TLR could be fun on the road and some track days. Yesterday I took it out the back roads and it blurred my vision on the bumps which I know on my silver gen1 busa would not have been a problem... but the TLR is lighter and a lot shorter so it's obviously more agile. Doesn't head shake over the bumps so that's a good thing..... 😂
10:11 I have an SV 1000 ,cerrozeria forged aluminium wheels and an ohlins rear shock, TL front forks,,galfer discs all round,,all bought from eBay for reasonable price,,, good source takes time 😢☘️☘️☘️☘️☘️ from northern Ireland 👌on my K6GSXR i turned the axle and blocks around RHS tightening now doesn't shift the settings,, and my SV 👍
So glad you could confirm this for me.....When refitting the back wheel with the new tyres I noticed that the axle nut was on the right hand side and my silver busa is on the left. And I thought, which way is better or doesn't it matter so I carried on, feed the axle in from the left, adjusted the chain and tightened everything up and noticed that it didn't have a variation of tension in the chain slack- it stayed the same as I had adjusted it...So thanks mate for confirming this, I appreciate the info! I'll swap the busa axle around too ☺
Keep an eye out on the gas pump gasket. It's known to leak gas right on top the engine.
Yes, it leaked already! Before our winter break here I took the TLR for a country run, (the owner rode his new bike and I rode the TLR) and by the time we got back the o-ring was leaking. Luckily he is a motor mechanic so a new one was fitted properly and it's good so far....
Great content men!
Can i get a chance to design all your previous thumbnails to get a professional loook to your channel as well as to increase CTR
Gday great video , can you tell me if the front brake pads rattle over rough ground I have an 02 Suzuki bandit 1200 with the same brakes that rattle
On the back of each caliper is the stainless steel pad cover bolted into position by two allen bolts. The job of this stainless cover is to put pressure on the top edge of the pads to try and stop the pads from see-sawing on the one pin in the middle of the pad. When the pad rocks back and forth the pad touches the claiper at each end. That's what you hear, each end of the steel backing plate of the pad hitting the caliper housing at each end. That's what I've found on my busa.
Thanks for the reply so this noise is normal?
@@oldpop2042 It's a symptom of a relatively long pad with a pivot in the middle, not a great design I reckon. Try and get the stainless steel cover to put more pressure on the pad or like I've done, change the calipers to something else. I hope that helps.
Thanks mate👍
Those rotary dampers aren't very good on normal roads, my tl1000s over worked itrear tyre because the rotary damper wasn't uniform in action.....I bought my bike new in 1997, actually really liked it.
I also hear the TLS would overheat the damper more easily than the TLR because it's tucked further in on the bike. Sounds like we need to buy a fancy new aftermarket rear shock that works! 🙂
不可思议❤
Thank you, I'll keep working on it.
Is that the Graham Farmer tunnel?
@@HumanVsHayabusa yes mate.
@KJmotoplus Awesome! Nice to see Perth and a bit of hooning out in the Wheatbelt.