Testing Sprinkler System Wiring
Вставка
- Опубліковано 17 кві 2015
- Tips on how to troubleshoot and isolate why a lawn sprinkler zone won’t operate. Video covers using a multi-tester to test transformer output, timer voltage to the sprinkler valves, and continuity/resistance (OHMs) in the sprinkler wiring.
Please support my UA-cam channel iScaper1 by using my Amazon Storefront to purchase products on Amazon.
iScaper1’s Amazon Storefront: www.amazon.com/shop/iscaper1 - Навчання та стиль
Well Done! Not a lot of excess talking and stories being told. Straight to the point and easy to follow.
Thanks!
I'm new to the Irrigation field, and this video was simple and very helpful.
Thank you, Great JOB!!
One of the better how to videos I have watched! I have a clear understanding of how to troubleshoot one of my failed zones.
Thanks Paul, I appreciate the feedback.
Thanks for the video, used your steps. The rain sensor was not working for me, so I disconnected it. Connected the white/common to the 2nd wire of all solenoids. All work now!
This is exactly what I needed to troubleshoot my system. Thanks for taking the time to make this!
Glad it helped!
This was a very helpful video, thank you! I was able to locate and repair a broken wire that must of been damaged during installation a few years ago and just completely failed.
For 30+ years I watched my dad try to figure how to fix the sprinkler system, now comes my turn , thank you for this video I was able to locate a cut wire on my last zone by following your steps , plus the re wiring correctly of zone valves fixed the issues. Now need to run a new wire from zone 5 to zone 6 . The bummer is I just reseeded 1 month ago going have to open up the ground slightly to slip new wire in place between each zone valves. Thank you tremendously you have saved me lots of money .
Glad it helped!
I had been struggling with station #11 for years. I just couldn’t figure it out. Using this video as a guide, I bought a multimeter and discovered the wiring was bad. Thankfully there was an extra blue wire at the box I could use. It’s finally fixed!! Thank you!
Fantastic!
very clear, with a calm voice! Great to help deal with a frustrating problem. Thanks!
Seriously!!!! Lol. Thank you both for the video and comment lol
Nice. I suspected some of this technique, but this video served to verify my theory. There is a surprisingly little amount of info like this on the web!
You saved my sanity. Thank you! Great video
You're welcome!!
Awesome. Thanks so much. 2 of my 3 zones weren't working on your video sent me down the right path to discovering what was wrong. Somehow those 2 wires were not covered by the conduit outside and had split in half! Also those 2 were not attached to any of the leads on the unit. I was able to reattach the wires to the leads and add more new wire outside for the 2 wires and even added homemade conduit. ;)
I'm not remotely and electrician but your video definitely gave the confidence to fix the problem. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching, I'm glad the video was helpful.
Thanks. Good concise information without a lot of fluff....:)
Thank you, thank you! My issue was due to cut off wire from the controller to the station, different issue but your video inspired me to hunt down the issue.
Timer wire cuts can be a real pain, thanks for watching.
Great step by step video for trouble-shooting a malfunctioning sprinkler zone with close-up video of each step. A+ from me.
Greatly appreciated the concise trouble shooting description. I have a 12 zone Hunter Pro-C controller with a base module and 3 PCM-300 expansion modules. 6 of the zones operated fine, but on the other 6 all I could hear was the solenoid chirping. Using your procedure, I began checking voltage and on the 6 working zones the voltage was over 24 volts, on the other 6 it was near 14. I assume this was just enough to pulse the solenoid. I turned off the power bar to the modules and pulled the two inoperable modules out and reseated them. I did this several times to get a good clean connection. After doing this I rechecked the voltage and it was now over 24 volts on the previously non working zones. They had been in place for 15 years and I guess over time some oxidation/corrosion has taken place to at the connection.
Great information, thanks for posting.
Thanks! You helped my dad a lot.
Thanks so much! I sorted out my fathers mix up in minutes thanks to you 🙏
Awesome, thanks for watching.
very methodical and a logical step-by-step, thank you
Thanks Michael, I appreciate the feedback.
Thank you very much. Your instructions were very helpful. By far the best video on this topic.
Great to hear!
Love the video, my only suggestion is that you show the multi tester device’s settings and which ones to be used in this example. I bought a tester and am not sure which mode to select. The tester is key to aiding in the diagnosis and identifying the problem source. Your videos are very helpful.
Good point, I'll remember that for the future. AC volts is the setting for the tester.
Excellent video my friend. Very clear and thorough! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks so much. This clear, concise guide was supper helpful.
Thanks Dennis for watching.
Excellent video. Very helpful.
Good and clear explanation! Thanks for this video.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent info- I learned a lot in a hurry. Thank you.
Great to hear!
Great video! Saved me from buying a new controller. I accidentally dug into the irrigation wire when planting a new bush. This was a used home and didn't know where the wires were buried.
An awesome video, simple and helpful. Thank you,
You're welcome!
Thank you for this video. You just saved me a lot of time!!
Thanks Jesse, I appreciate the feedback.
Thanks for the great video
Thank you for this video it help me and save a lot of time
Thanks for watching.
Wonderful ! Thank you for helping us !
Happy to help!
Thank you for the video. This is exactly what I needed
Awesome video thanks for educating me on this.
Glad it was helpful!
I learn something new today very helpful
Glad it was helpful!
I have this same controller made by hunter. When I test the wiring to the solenoids, all three read about 25.2 ohms. My system is working OK.
Thanks again for all your help over the last three years. You have an excellent channel. I unsubscribed only because I'm selling the yard service and will be out of the bus over the next month or two~ Be well!
CYBYTHESEA OHANA TUBE
Thanks for watching, and good luck to you.
Thank you! I hope the best for you in the next season of your career!
Good video, Kerry!
John Smith
Thanks John, I appreciate the feedback.
I really appreciate you providing full view of the multi meter settings since I’m not confident that I’ve have the settings correct. Thank you, your video helped greatly in solving my problem!
Glad to help!
Great video.
I love hunter clocks are great!!!
Best explanation
i like this video well done thanks
Best video! Thank you!
You're welcome!
great vid, it worked for me!
leslie morton
Great, thanks for watching.
Very nice! Awesome vid.
Thanks!
Thank you. Today l have learn more.
Great!
good job my man!
Appreciate it!
thanks for video
lamson92
Thanks for the feedback.
thanks for some great videos! I have an issue with zone 5 and 6. Valve boxes for these 2 zones are one next to the other and they share the same common wire (other zones are located elsewhere and share another common wire). my multi tester measured voltage at the controller for each station and all seems fine (getting values around 26). Continuity test measured cca 30 ohms on each station but did not get any reading on zone 5 and 6. I went to the valve, took off the connector on zone 6 and twisted the wires. I still get no reading for continuity. So, it seems that the problem is in the wire between the valve and controller. My question is, what is the best way to locate and repair that damaged wire? What equipment do I need? Thanks a lot for your input
+Bolčina Jaka
It's not easy to find a timer wire break. I have rented a wire locator but they are expensive (the one I rented was $50 per hour). Basically you put a tone on the timer wire and the locator finds the break. The other option is to run a new timer wire to the valves.
Good job jakey👍
Thanks, I think.
Thanks....
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Awesome vid
Thanks Reed for watching.
Thank you for the video. When I try to manually operate single or multiple zones and move my dial back to the run position, it resets back to the date display and doesnt start the zone timer.
Try selecting the program you want to water from first.
Thank you Kerry..
Thanks
Good info
Thanks!
I love your videos, a lot to learn from each. I can't find the valves to the 4 zones in my front yard. What is the best way to find these? Thanks!
Valves are usually in a cluster in a green box. The lid to the box should be flush with the surface of the ground. If you can't find the valves poking around then the options become more difficult and expensive.
gonna try this today and hopefully that is what is wrong. i bought another timer system just in case
Thank you!!!
Thanks for watching.
Thank you for this! I have ordered a multimeter so that I can run this test. I actually patched a new valve into the wiring for a valve that existed just a couple of feet away (I patched into the green wire which was unused in the old valve). So I have several possible areas of failure. In addition, I nicked the sprinkler wire last year and noted that the casing around the green line was stripped off. So I am going to need a meter for all of this! Is there a way to test along a sprinkler wire to determine where the failure occurs (i.e., test the wire voltage before my nick vs. after my nick)? Thank you again for this video!
The only way I know to test the where the break in a timer wire is located is to use a line locator. With the locator you put a tone on the wire and it shows where the wire is located in the ground and where the break occurs. The last locator I rented was pricey, $50 per hour.
Great!!!
Great videos! I've learned a lot from you. I have a question.
I bought a home with existing sprinkler setup. I have a Hunter Pro C that allows for adding up to 15 stations and 12 are connected. I turned it on for testing and only get 1-3 stations to activate...what could be the issue?
Stations 4 through 12 don't register on the timer box
I would try resetting the timer and if that doesn't work I would contact Hunter technical support. It doesn't look like they have phone support. Here's a link for their email support: www.hunterindustries.com/support/email_support/email.
Thanks for the video. The power coming in and the power going out tests out fine, but I have no reading on any of the stations when testing for continuity. Could all the valves be faulty or is there a single place I need to go first? Unfortunately, I have not located the valve box (not even certain they used valve boxes).
Ryan Homburg
I doubt that all of the valves are faulty. You probably have a wiring problem. If you don't have valve boxes then this could turn into a project for you. Usually valves are in a cluster in a valve box, and if you can find it I would check that the common wire that the solenoids from the valves connect to isn't broken or pulled loose. If the common wire connection looks good you could have a timer wire cut or broken between the timer and sprinkler valves.
Thanks for the video its quite helpful as I am planning to diagnose a similar problem with my zone3 not working and hope that my problem would turnout as simple as yours:)) .However I like to know if I need to turn the power off to the timer when working on solenoid wiring or while testing. I see you touch the wires at the end in your video not sure if you were turning off the power supply. please advice. thanks!
Naveen Papishetty
You need power to the timer to test output power to the valves. When testing continuity you're unhooking the wires from the timer, and when working on the solenoid just turn the dial on the timer to Off but don't disconnect power to the timer.
Thanks for the great video. I am getting a reading of 1.5-2.5 Ohm on my bad station (Station 1). So its not a continuity problem. Does that mean I have a bad solenoid valve?
If I remember right Ohm reading should be between 20-60. I would check the solenoid. Most sprinkler valve problems are the solenoid.
Thank you very much! On the multitester where did you place it first and second time to read?
At the timer the black probe goes on the common terminal and the red probe goes on the station terminal if you're testing output to the sprinkler valves.
@@Iscaper I meant on ohms?
Thank you for video. Any suggestions if all the test check out; however the controller still will not turn on sprinklers?
I can turn them on at the Vaule too?
If none of the stations work and everything checks out at the timer, it sounds like you may have a timer wire cut. With the timer on have you checked power at the sprinkler valves?
Awesome info and well explained. My meter confuses me. I have a orbit timer that isn't turning on the sprinklers. I messed with it today to do a test of all 4 zones and it only did 1. I can't get it to do it again. Will none work if a solenoid is bad on one valve? I've tried to get into the box but I can't see a fuse.
Orbit timers are notoriously hard to program. If you have one bad valve it won't affect the watering of the other valves. Make sure all the stations have run times on them before you try to manually water. What's the model number of your Orbit timer?
Great video. I have problem with a zone, zone 2 where heads barely come up and spray. I can turn off and manully turn on a zone 1 for about 5 seconds and manually select next zone, zone 2 and all heads are up and working fine. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
jetlop56
Is it when you water off the program zone 2 shows this problem? It could be that zone 1 hasn't completely shut off or is slow to shut off when zone 2 starts up. I would check that first. If you have Toro valves they are notorious for that. You could also try manually opening and closing the valves with the bleed screw or solenoid to confirm that each valve is opening and closing properly. It doesn't sound like a timer problem because valve 2 operates properly on a manual start-up.
I have the arc hunter system , all stations work manually but I have. It take a voltage reading . I can't operate any station manually it will display only the time on the screen.
I love your videos learned many tricks from them. Im a licensed Landscape contractor but as manu still have many techniques to learn. I have a situation that i can't figure out and hope you have some ideas. I installed a manual valve and converted into a brass automatic valve witn wiring and control. Power is good no cuts and timer is good. I tried 4 nee valves and wont get them to turn on. Its only one valve. For some reason an old valve i had did worn for 2 weeks and then got stuck. I replaced with a new valve again didnt work. I cleaned th old valve and disassembled it and put it together again and did work again. But none of the new valves are working. I touched the solenoid together and they spark but wont trigger. I was thinking its the pressure because when I change them there is alot if air in the lines as soon as i get them off or open the bleesder makes a loud noise as it wants to blow out. Pressure in that area is very strong. Any ideas
+jose gallo
If I understand you comment correctly you've converted brass valves to water automatically. Is that correct? My experience with conversion valves is that they are temperamental at best. I've installed new Irritrol conversion valves that didn't work, and Irritrol conversion valves that after one year needed to be replaced.
With the timer wires off, can you get the valve to manually open and close? High supply pressure could be an issue but shouldn't keep the valves from operating.
If you can't get the conversion valves to open and close manually you may have to cut out the manifold and go with regular electric valves like the Rain Bird 100DVF.
+iScaper1 thank you. I was thinking the same to install ans complete plastic rainbird valve. Since the brass have a 2 piece and sometimes the soleonid insert gets clogged and makes the valve stay in periodically when triggers wich my customer has to go out and shutt the main off. Thanks
Perfect Explanation Here is my question : Zone three doesn't stop when I manually turn it off . what should I do to stop it ? thanks
Could have a bad solenoid or diaphragm but more likely it is debris in the valve that's keeping it from closing. Shut off the water and take the top half of the valve off and check for debris or rocks.
What does it mean id you have 71 ohms when you do the resistance test ?? Thank you.. Great video and information
Here is a good article from Rain Bird on ohms readings, see #7 in the article: www.rainbird.com/landscape/resources/articles/Multimeters.htm
im having trouble with my back sprinklers won't turn on...does the battery has to a big part if it does not function
New house with basically same setup. None of the zones are working. There is infinite resistance between the white ground wire and any of the colored wires. There is either 47 or 270 ohms between the colored wires. Assuming that says there is a break in the white wire. Sound right?
Also, previous owner buried one of the solenoids in loose dirt. The wire coming to it is connected to the yellow wire, and all the other wires are uncapped and just in the dirt. Pretty sure that is the last stop on the control cable, but all the other junctions pass through the wire, rather than cut it off. Pretty sure that’s not good. :-)
Very clear and helpful. I am trying to follow your procedure, and the power 24V is coming in to the control station OK, so I moved on to checking the power as each circuit is manually turned on (to make sure the timer wire is delivering power to each circuit in the controller box).
It is good for 8 of my 9 circuits except for the non-functioning one. When I try to run that circuit for the test, it immediately ERR's out, even before I can get a power reading, which is what it does when I just try to run it.
So how do you measure the power to the bad circuit on yours before it gives an ERR response? Should I disconnect the timing wire for the bad circuit and try and measure it disconnected from the actual bad sprinkler circuit?
I'm guessing I have a bad solenoid or wire/connection in the valve box, but following your process first. Thanks.
You could unhook the station wire and check the timer output to terminal in question. Your guess is probably right, you more than likely have a shorted solenoid on the sprinkler valve and it's giving the ERR message on the timer.
Thank you. That worked. With the wire on circuit 8 detached I got a good reading on timer output. So all circuits getting power when supposed to.
Next step - checking resistance (continuity). My meter has a specific continuity setting so I tried that 1st. All circuits beeped except #6, which was a surprise since it's #8 that gets ERR and stops everything. I switched to the Ohm setting 200 that you used and I got 20-30 on all but #8, which I got a steady 4, and #6 which gave me a straight line (1). So I increased the scale for #6 and got a reading at 200k of a increasing number from 70 to 90 and still going up .1 at a time. Whatever that means...
Dark out now but I will continue tomorrow. Hopefully I will find a loose connection like you did for circuit #8. Does the resistance reading of 4 rule out the solenoid?
Don't know what is going on with #6. The controller thinks it's working, but it's a strip of lawn next to the street that's always browner, and a drip irrigation system that's all underground. I always thought it just didn't cover very well, but this may be telling me there is a problem??? Any suggestions welcome!
Looks like solenoid is probably bad on #8 since you got a reading of 4. Under 20 usually means a bad solenoid. On #6 I would remove the wires from the valve, re-strip timer wires and solenoid wires then test voltage from timer. Manually start #6 and put black probe on common wire and red probe on station wire. Confirm voltage is 24-29 volts. Then check continuity on solenoid since you will have the wires off. From what I've read you may have an open (reading over 60) on #6 since the reading keeps climbing. Hopefully re-stripping the valve wires and wires from the timer will cure the problem.
OK. #8 fixed with new solenoid!
#6 after disconnecting and stripping tested V at controller and still get 24V. With ground and timer wires disconnected at solenoid I get 0 V (do get continuity on solenoid disconnected wires). Does this mean solenoid is good but I have a break in timer or ground wires between controller and valve?
With wires unhooked on #6 check continuity on solenoid wires not voltage. Hopefully the continuity will be good. While the wires are unhooked, manually start #6 and hold one wire from solenoid on common wire to timer and then touch the other solenoid wire to the station wire going to timer. The valve should open and water. Remove station wire and valve should close. You can also open and close the sprinkler valve manually to check how it's operating.
Very useful! I am not quite sure what my issue is, but I think it is somewhere in the control box. Last week, none of the zones would come on either from the program settings, or manual operation (Hunter Pro-C 300i). I reset the control box, and cleared the memory, and that seemed to have cured the problem for a week. This morning, none of the zones are operating again on the programs, or manual start. A reset of the control box isn't curing the problem this time. At a loss of what could be causing that. I am thinking it's something in the control box since none of the six zones will come on, and the control box shows an indication that it is watering, but no water is coming out.
You need to isolate where the problem is first. I would run the timer through a manual cycle and test each station with a multi-tester to check if the timer is outputting power (24 Volts) to the valves. Black probe on the Common terminal and Red probe on the station that is watering. If it isn't outputting power you probably have a bad timer. If it is you may have a timer wire cut to the valves or a bad common wire connection at the sprinkler valves.
TL did you figure that out?
I figured it out. I ended up pulling out all the wires from the valves and cleaned all of the gunk off of them. I am assuming one the zone wires were either loose, or too much crap inside of the wire ties - and just caused a loss of conductivity. Anyways, it's all good right now!
Great video! I have an easy and maybe somewhat stupid question: On my older Hunter X-Core (which looks basically like the one in the video) When the dial is set to "system off" does it mean that no voltage or current is going out to the zones? I was doing some wiring work on my valves and had forgotten to shut the power off... however the system was set to "system off" - I couldn't feel anything when I touched the wires... is that simply because there was no current when set to "system off" or is 24VAC too low to be felt? I was wondering since hunter themselves always say "shut power off before maintenance"
You're correct, when the dial is turned to System Off there is no power going to the sprinkler valves.
When working with Eliseo getting everything in writing! He was just at my home and his response to me when I disagreed with what I believed I paid him for was “Where did I say that!!” And I’m embarrassed to say that I only have his word and the price tag. He is the one that recommended using weed block and the drip system to fix my problem with weeds. I paid him trusting the job was done only to find it wasn’t when weeds started to pop up. I totally trusted him because of a recommendation. So I guess he’s trustworthy until he isn’t. Be careful. HE. GOT. ME! GET IT IN WRITING!
I don’t understand, who is Eliseo? I understand, when I bought my 1st car the guy said “It’s been great, I’ve never had to do anything to it!” Only to find that included regular maintenance & it was in terrible condition. Although I believe there are more honest, diligent people than not do we will find the difference in other experiences! Like this video here has saved me a lot of money! Cheers & thanks to iScaper1!
24 tube e rickshaw controller kit tester ourchase karna hai kahan se karen
Related to testing the transformer power, I have an old Rainbird transformer and instead of just two wires coming in to the box, it has three.
One is Red, one blue, one yellow. On the label on the transformer it says blue/yellow 24.5V, red/yellow 9.5.V. The solenoids all say 24V. So I assume when checking transformer voltage to control box I should only be concerned with using the tester leads on the blue and yellow wires, correct? What is the 9.5V used for?
Sounds right. The 9.5v might be for a rechargeable battery.
Do all the stations need to wired for this to work ? I have a unit that has 4 pair of wires going to valves. All white and black.
The stations you want to test need to be wired.
👏👏👏
Thanks
When testing the voltage output of the sprinkler stations would all the stations have voltage output all at the same time?(I assume no)
Or would each station only show voltage output when that station is running on the timer?
ex: Station 1 is running on the timer and shows 24v output while the output of all the other stations should show 0 voltage output at that time.
Only the station running will show voltage.
I’ve got a 4 zone system the previous home owner put in, with 2 extra colored wires not connected at the control box or to any valve. The solenoids are like 250’ from the controller box. Will this work to test the continuity of the unused wires as I’d like to use them to add zones, and not damage anything while testing ? If I unplug the power to the control box from the wall, take the two colored unused wires and touch a 9v battery lead to each wire. Then at the solenoid 250’ away test the voltage of the 2 unused colored wires with my multimeter connected to each wire. Will this work as a continuity test? If any voltage shows up, it shows the wires have no breaks. And if anything is connected to those wires it shouldn’t damage it right bc it’s only 9v, right? Thanks for any help on this.
I'm more concerned about the voltage drop because 250' is a long run for timer wire if it's 18 gauge. I would disconnect the zone/station wire from zone 1 and connect one of the extra wires you have. Next expose the common wire in your valve box. Then manually start zone/station 1 and use your multi-tester to check voltage at the valve box for the extra wire. Red probe on the tester for the zone/station wire and black probe on the common wire. Hopefully you'll have a least 24 volts. If you do go ahead and repeat these steps for the 2nd extra wire.
I have poor pressure this year in 3 of my 16 zones. Any idea what may cause this?
Could be a lot of things:
1. Too many heads on the 3 zones.
2. If city volume & pressure are down because more houses are being built in your area, this could be the culprit. I would test your pressure at a tap. Hopefully you have a previous pressure test to compare against.
3. An obstruction in the manifold or piping feeding the sprinkler valves.
4. Valves that are not fully opening (not as likely).
5. Broken heads or piping.
Would the ohms continuity test have worked without removing the common wire ? then connecting the 2 leads to common terminal and zone 1 terminal ? If not, then why ? Thanks :)
I read somewhere you should disconnect the common wire when doing the continuity test. Your way may work also but I haven't tried it.
I have a HUnter SRC and getting NO AC display. Checking the voltage on the wires at the terminal it shows 38V instead of 26-29V, even that I have the same transformer WT57-2600750AU . Can it be the problem?
Transformer output seems high, it could be the problem.
Hi good evening I have a question my system just work the station 1 im check the sprinkler timer have 26v do you think the timer need changed my timer have one year new
Do you have Station Run Times for each station. They won't water unless you do.
So what does it mean if I'm only getting a couple volts on one terminal?When I manually send that valve to turn on
If you're testing at the timer that station terminal could be faulty. It means the timer isn't sending enough voltage to open the sprinkler valve. Try wiring that station wire to a different terminal at the timer and manually start the station. If the station works then you know your problem is at the timer.
I am looking for a good volt reader but I don't know what to get because they are all different but I need one.
I have a Craftsman model 82312 which works really well.
iScaper1 thanks
I have 2 zones going off at the same time. Switched timer and still the same. Wiring connections are correct. Could it be 2 wires touching, or a bad solenoid?
Hmm, the valves would have to be wired together at the valve box. I would check that first. I doubt it's a bad solenoid because the valve wouldn't open if that's the case.
@@Iscaper Thanks for your response. I figured it out. The wire that goes to the timer got stripped where it enters the hole in the wall and was shorted. Now it is all good.
@@lwh7301 Great, thanks for the information.
Would a multi tester be helpful for anything else?
Yes, I use mine to test OHMs, plugs, other wiring in the house, and even batteries.
Okay so what’s it mean if the voltage test showed 50 to the zone being powered and 10 to the zones not powered? Also, no change in the ohms test to any of the zones- all stayed at 1. Thanks in advance!
The timer should only be outputting 24-29 AC volts to the sprinkler valve. Other zones shouldn't be receiving power in this step.
I had 1 zone showing an error. I already winterized my system by opening that zone manually. Now that Im checking wires, Im getting errors in several zones. I wouldnt imagine my system need to be charged with water to do these tests does it?
Correct, you can check wiring without the water being on.
Great Video! My Issue Is That My Controller Will Only Display With The Battery Connected. I Have Proper Voltage From The Output Of The Plug And Proper Voltage At The A/C Terminal Wiring.
This is from the manual:
The battery allows you to program the SRC Plus Controller without having AC power available. However, the battery will not be able to activate any of the station valves. Electrical power must resume before watering will continue. The SRC Plus has non-volatile memory which retains all program information in the event of a power outage.
@@Iscaper Thanks For Responding. My Plug Is Good. I Have 28v. Should I Assume My Controller Is No Good?
@@resmny9 Looks like you have good power coming in from the transformer. I would try to manually start a station off the timer and test the output from the timer to that station. If you're not getting around 28 volts then the timer is probably bad.
@@Iscaper Thanks. I Went Back Watched And Your Video And I Didn't Follow Instructions On Operating The System. I've Never Had To Operate The Sprinkler System Before My Father Always Operated It Now That's He's Older And His Health Isn't Good I've Taken On The Responsibility. So Now I'm Discovering No AC Display On The Timer. So Now I Can Assume A Bad Transformer/Plug?
@@resmny9 You said in previous comments that you had 28 volts at the terminals on the timer from the transformer. Is that correct?
Great video. We moved into a home with a Hunter Pro-C irrigation controller with 5 zones. Last year, all 5 stations/zones were working fine and now as I write this in April, zone #3 stopped working and flashes the sprinkler icon on the display when it's that zone's turn to operate. This happens regardless if in programmed mode or manually running the station. I will try your steps to troubleshoot the wiring first. All of my valves are located in one box in my front yard. I will start with this first question - in the video you showed capping the wiring with a new wire nut "with silicone". Are those the outdoor/waterproof wire nuts that are at Home Depot and Lowe's (IDEAL is one of the brands I believe). Thanks!!
It's usually a short in the solenoid that keeps a valve from working. You could replace that on zone 3 first and see if it cures your problem. If not test the wiring to that valve. Yes the wire nuts are silicone filled to prevent moisture from getting to the wiring.
@@Iscaper I replaced the entire valve bonnet, diaphragm, solenoid and the wire nuts but the continuity test for the zone 3 wiring registers 00.0 where all the other valves are giving around 27.6 ohm. I am dreading having to run a new wire for this zone.
@@progression_decibel Is there a spare timer wire you can use?
@@Iscaper Unfortunately no. I have a 5-zone system and all of the wires are being used, no spares in the timer box. Zone 6 on the expansion module in the timer box is free but I even tried moving zone 3 wire to 6 and it didn't make a difference.
I know wire tracers are expensive to rent and at this point depending on cost, I might just have our local sprinkler pro's come out to quote a new wire run. The alternative in the meantime is I manually open valve 3 anytime I want to water the zone instead of a hose.
Appreciate all your input and advice!
@@progression_decibel Depending on what the sprinkler guys quote you for a new timer wire run, another option could be to add a battery powered controller to that valve. If it's Rain Bird you could add an ESP-9V1 battery powered controller with a TBOSPSOL - 9-Volt Potted Latching Solenoid. Cost for the 2 on Rain Bird's site is around $185.00. Here's a link for the controller: store.rainbird.com/esp9v1-esp-9v-battery-operated-controller-1-zone.html
What if you dont get a good reading when checking the AC
Check that the outlet has power. If it does you may have a bad transformer.