@@chase1up_2.0 u damb straight ,lol I just put the m4gp shorty and sent out the ecu for flashing,sucks cuz I can't dyno tune do to the location but yeah these gixxers rock
You mentioned a very great point about the steel plates the has two edge a round and a flat side the flat side "faces to the outside" on the steel plates,they don't mention that in Manny videos I seen and not even on the Suzuki O.E.M. Manual and I think I put the steel plates on my Suzuki GSXS 750 backwards.
Hey, really good video, man. This may have been the first time you've done the clutch on your GSXR but you are obviously a very good mechanic. Just a few comments: 1. One of the steel plates is different from the others. It has a different part number from the other plates and is slightly thinner. You'll need to use a micrometer to ID it since it appears identical to the others to the naked eye. It will have a different part number on the packaging. This plate goes on the outside of the others and will be the last steel plate that you install. 2. In the video, when you removed the pressure plate, a thin washer remained in the pressure plate, stuck to it by the oil inside the plate. This washer is designed to bear against the thrust bearing on the clutch actuator rod. I'm sure it remained stuck to the pressure plate and went back to where it belongs (against the thrust bearing) when you put the pressure plate back on. However, best to be aware it's there and remove it from the pressure plate and place it on the shaft against the bearing so it's not lost. 3. It's best to tighten the clutch bolts with a torque wrench. I believe they should be torqued to 7.4 ft-lb. Thanks again for the excellent video. It helped me on my first clutch replacement on my GSXR 750. I love your idea of tracing the gasket on cardboard and sticking the bolts in their appropriate location, rather than trying to figure it out after you've tossed them together in a pile.
Great question! Whenever I came to a stop at a red light with the clutch pulled in in first gear and I revved it, it started to jump forward a little bit. Plates were starting to slip on takeoff and wasn’t a smooth transition on letting out of the clutch to accelerate.
you aught to be using torque wrench and tighten to the right torque...otherwise those bolts can come loose at certain heat/vibration and boom it comes out rattling, crackling and all drama inside the chamber
Probably previously mentioned, but using the correct torque will save you a headache, some of the threds or bolts give way if over torqued. For the pressure plate the torque is: 10 N·m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.0 lbf-ft) Additionally there is an adjuster screw in the middle, you have to reset it after installing a new clutch plate kit. Loosen the lock-nut (24 - the smaller one) and turn in the clutch release adjusting screw (25 - phillips head bolt) until resistance is felt. From that position, turn out the clutch release adjusting screw (25) 1 turn and tighten the lock-nut (24) while holding the screw (25).
Dang lol I've replaced several clutches over the years and have never done this. Never had any issues but I'll keep it in mind.Im a little confused by the "24" and the "25" numbers you mentioned lol might be over thinking though.
You don’t have to drain oil. There will be valve cover seepage but not much oil just don’t straighten the bike up.
Great job Broski, much appreciated. You save me $225 of labor. Thanks again bro hope you kill it at the track.
Thanks man! And no problem. I appreciate the support! 👍🏻👍🏻
Good video, but last plate you need to rotate left or right for 1 teeth to “lock” it…
Yessir
The last ring has a beveled bend in it and u want it pointing inward
Looking at the steel plates , one of the plates end in a different part number but looks just like the rest. Where does that go?
Do you use anything on the case for the gasket? How tight should the bolts be around the case ?
That sensor is your gear indicator.
Get yourself a rubber mallet and your good.
Dude u hit it on the head.i got the same bike bro
Heck yeah man glad you like the video! And yes these bikes are awesome to own! They run very well!
@@chase1up_2.0 u damb straight ,lol I just put the m4gp shorty and sent out the ecu for flashing,sucks cuz I can't dyno tune do to the location but yeah these gixxers rock
You mentioned a very great point about the steel plates the has two edge a round and a flat side the flat side "faces to the outside" on the steel plates,they don't mention that in Manny videos I seen and not even on the Suzuki O.E.M. Manual and I think I put the steel plates on my Suzuki GSXS 750 backwards.
Hey, really good video, man. This may have been the first time you've done the clutch on your GSXR but you are obviously a very good mechanic. Just a few comments:
1. One of the steel plates is different from the others. It has a different part number from the other plates and is slightly thinner. You'll need to use a micrometer to ID it since it appears identical to the others to the naked eye. It will have a different part number on the packaging. This plate goes on the outside of the others and will be the last steel plate that you install.
2. In the video, when you removed the pressure plate, a thin washer remained in the pressure plate, stuck to it by the oil inside the plate. This washer is designed to bear against the thrust bearing on the clutch actuator rod. I'm sure it remained stuck to the pressure plate and went back to where it belongs (against the thrust bearing) when you put the pressure plate back on. However, best to be aware it's there and remove it from the pressure plate and place it on the shaft against the bearing so it's not lost.
3. It's best to tighten the clutch bolts with a torque wrench. I believe they should be torqued to 7.4 ft-lb.
Thanks again for the excellent video. It helped me on my first clutch replacement on my GSXR 750. I love your idea of tracing the gasket on cardboard and sticking the bolts in their appropriate location, rather than trying to figure it out after you've tossed them together in a pile.
Thanks man! 👍🏻 and i’ll keep an eye on the other three notes as well next time! 👍🏻
What was your reason for replacing your clutch plates?
Great question!
Whenever I came to a stop at a red light with the clutch pulled in in first gear and I revved it, it started to jump forward a little bit. Plates were starting to slip on takeoff and wasn’t a smooth transition on letting out of the clutch to accelerate.
you aught to be using torque wrench and tighten to the right torque...otherwise those bolts can come loose at certain heat/vibration and boom it comes out rattling, crackling and all drama inside the chamber
It was working for about 100 miles but it’s slipping around 8k rpm… what did I do wrong
Springs are 7-8lbs of torque there shouldn’t be very hard.
Is the last plate you in in aliened with the other on or is off set
The last one was offset.
@@chase1up_2.0 doing my tomorrow after work, saw a few videos but yours was the absolute best I have a 11 750
@@melvinvelines1578 Awesome! I’m glad to hear that! Thanks for the support! 👍🏻👍🏻
Ótimo trabalho,,vou trocar da minha também ,, não confio nos mecânico daqui 😊
Good idea with the rod but you can put them together on floor.
Good job but only small ring needed to come out.
Probably previously mentioned, but using the correct torque will save you a headache, some of the threds or bolts give way if over torqued. For the pressure plate the torque is:
10 N·m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.0 lbf-ft)
Additionally there is an adjuster screw in the middle, you have to reset it after installing a new clutch plate kit.
Loosen the lock-nut (24 - the smaller one) and turn in the clutch release adjusting screw (25 - phillips head bolt) until resistance is felt.
From that position, turn out the clutch release adjusting screw (25) 1 turn and tighten the lock-nut (24) while holding the screw (25).
Awesome! That’s good to know. Thanks for the information! 👍🏻👍🏻
Dang lol I've replaced several clutches over the years and have never done this. Never had any issues but I'll keep it in mind.Im a little confused by the "24" and the "25" numbers you mentioned lol might be over thinking though.
@Shift1dwn5up sorry the numbers are reference numbers from the service manual to an image they provide. I can drop it here