Another trick to getting the transfer to blend into a uniform level reflectivity with the rest of your model is by hitting the area or whole model with gloss or satin varnish, applying the decal, letting it set using the techniques illustrated in this video and then following through with the matte varnish. For some reason the shiny decal being on a shiny background and then both getting matted down helps the two blend together visually better. Useful if you are going for a cleaner less worn look on your decals but want them to look painted. The varnish also offers you a level of 'undo' as if you make any mistakes while chipping or using paint or ink to colour your transfer, if you make a mistake you can safely rub it away with water and a firm synthetic fiber paintbrush [ideally clipped to have a flat top with scissors] and water or water and alcohol [isopropyl] or acrylic airbrush cleaner/thinner if you don't have any and its not coming off. Just remember to start gentle and get a feel for it, also to make sure the varnish layers are properly dry!
Excellent tutorial. I particulary like the way you paint the decal yellow and create scratching with the GW Kantor Blue thin lines which is the mini's base colour. i do a similar thing with dirtying up the decals with nuln oil wash or agrax earthshade wash. GW's 'Eavy metal create great paintd minis and then they just stick these unmodified decals on them that look like some kid stuck them on fresh from his sticker album collection.
Awesome....been looking for a recipe for that warm orange look to yellow base for a while....funny that I found it on a "decal" video instead of a "painting yellow" one. Thanks
A trick pretty much any experienced modeller will tell you is to apply your decals to a gloss surface. This helps stop the silvering from the film on the decals that you get on a matt surface - the gloss surface is smoother so the film sits on it better that the matt which is rougher. Once the decals are dry, then go over them with a matt or satin varnish, depending on the finish you're looking for. It's also a good idea to put the decals on and varnished before any weathering so as to make them look like a part of the model and not stand out so much.
Gone ahead and ordered some micro set/sol from like the only place in the UK I could find that actually sold it.. tried decals on a tank I was super happy with up until that point and when applying matt varnish they just lifted up and crumpled to nothing! Then the stupid "matt" varnish looked terrible so guess spray varnish it is now so at least it's consistent.
Hi Trovarion, cool video. I don't have an airbrush can I just paint ardcoat over my decal ? Will that do the trick? I've heard it would be the right thing to do but want to hear from the expert
Such a simple yet genius idea. Thank you very much for the inspiration. This will keep me busy experimenting for some time. Question: What is the difference between using only water to apply the decal, then varnishing it to paint over it, compared to use micro set? You said it helps with bent surfaces. Something else? I am asking because I've never heard of micro set and micro sol before, hence, I would default to just using water. However, if this was bound to fail, then it would be helpful to know before. ;) (Übrigens gefiel mir das Video über den Mythos der perfekten Miniatur, bzw. der richtigen Bemalweise sehr gut. Ich habe in dem Suchen nach der wahren "Map" zum Ziel meinen eigenen Werdegang wiederentdeckt.)
You can use water on straight surfaces. In my experience the microsol helps to get rid of airbubbles better. On curved surfaces I don't do it without microsol anymore.
I use contrast paints and noticed that the decals stick almost on contact with the surface even if I apply some gloss varnish over the surface before hand. Any tips? Thanks mate
You can do it any way you want. I like the microset because the decal comes off the paper with 2 drops really fast and it makes adhesion better which minimizes air bubbles and stuff.
I accidentaly overchipped mine ... is there any way to remove the paint from the transfer ? I dont have another one to replace it . If it helps they are ultramarine transfers , the redemptor dreadnought ones , one is the yellow circle with the number II on it and the other is an Ultramarine symbol , same as the suit's ones
You can always paint over it - especially on the white one it's easy to match the color. But with a bit of mixing you should also be able to match the other one!
Another trick to getting the transfer to blend into a uniform level reflectivity with the rest of your model is by hitting the area or whole model with gloss or satin varnish, applying the decal, letting it set using the techniques illustrated in this video and then following through with the matte varnish. For some reason the shiny decal being on a shiny background and then both getting matted down helps the two blend together visually better. Useful if you are going for a cleaner less worn look on your decals but want them to look painted. The varnish also offers you a level of 'undo' as if you make any mistakes while chipping or using paint or ink to colour your transfer, if you make a mistake you can safely rub it away with water and a firm synthetic fiber paintbrush [ideally clipped to have a flat top with scissors] and water or water and alcohol [isopropyl] or acrylic airbrush cleaner/thinner if you don't have any and its not coming off. Just remember to start gentle and get a feel for it, also to make sure the varnish layers are properly dry!
really nice tips, the shading over de decals together with the cracks is really good idea, made it look freehand/ part of the model so much more :)
thanks for the tips, great idea to glaze the decals to knock them back bit and blend in better - looking forward to the invictor weathering vid!
Nice super quick tutorial. Never heard of Micro set and Micro Sol but they seem super useful for decals. Thanks very much for the video.
Excellent tutorial. I particulary like the way you paint the decal yellow and create scratching with the GW Kantor Blue thin lines which is the mini's base colour. i do a similar thing with dirtying up the decals with nuln oil wash or agrax earthshade wash. GW's 'Eavy metal create great paintd minis and then they just stick these unmodified decals on them that look like some kid stuck them on fresh from his sticker album collection.
Good bite sized informative video dude,cheers.
Awesome....been looking for a recipe for that warm orange look to yellow base for a while....funny that I found it on a "decal" video instead of a "painting yellow" one.
Thanks
Thanks for the tutorial. I use Mr Hobby products myself, they’re essentially Micro set and Micro sol. I find the second one essential
Dont personally use decals but I found it very informative. As always :)
Love the content! I appreciate all the tips
FINALLY a good, SHORT video that doesn't fuck around. Thank you!
Thanks a lot for the video!
Great vid. Leaving a comment for the algorithm.
A trick pretty much any experienced modeller will tell you is to apply your decals to a gloss surface. This helps stop the silvering from the film on the decals that you get on a matt surface - the gloss surface is smoother so the film sits on it better that the matt which is rougher. Once the decals are dry, then go over them with a matt or satin varnish, depending on the finish you're looking for. It's also a good idea to put the decals on and varnished before any weathering so as to make them look like a part of the model and not stand out so much.
A layer of Lahmian Medium over the decal will also eliminate the shine while making it easier to shade/chip/scratch with paint later.
This was so fucking useful. Thanks man!
Gone ahead and ordered some micro set/sol from like the only place in the UK I could find that actually sold it.. tried decals on a tank I was super happy with up until that point and when applying matt varnish they just lifted up and crumpled to nothing! Then the stupid "matt" varnish looked terrible so guess spray varnish it is now so at least it's consistent.
Hi Trovarion, cool video. I don't have an airbrush can I just paint ardcoat over my decal ? Will that do the trick? I've heard it would be the right thing to do but want to hear from the expert
Each time i watch your vids i am wondering what my old art teachers back in the day would have said about this kind of painting 🙃
Probably "you call this shit art??" 🤣
Thanks
NGL didn't know using Micro-Set directly onto the decal was an option instead of using water
Er sagt man bekommt die von verschiedenen Third Party Anbietern, weiß jemand wo? Finde absolut nichts.
Such a simple yet genius idea. Thank you very much for the inspiration. This will keep me busy experimenting for some time.
Question: What is the difference between using only water to apply the decal, then varnishing it to paint over it, compared to use micro set?
You said it helps with bent surfaces. Something else?
I am asking because I've never heard of micro set and micro sol before, hence, I would default to just using water. However, if this was bound to fail, then it would be helpful to know before. ;)
(Übrigens gefiel mir das Video über den Mythos der perfekten Miniatur, bzw. der richtigen Bemalweise sehr gut. Ich habe in dem Suchen nach der wahren "Map" zum Ziel meinen eigenen Werdegang wiederentdeckt.)
You can use water on straight surfaces. In my experience the microsol helps to get rid of airbubbles better. On curved surfaces I don't do it without microsol anymore.
I use contrast paints and noticed that the decals stick almost on contact with the surface even if I apply some gloss varnish over the surface before hand. Any tips? Thanks mate
Question, why do I need the microset? Why not just water for that part?
You can do it any way you want. I like the microset because the decal comes off the paper with 2 drops really fast and it makes adhesion better which minimizes air bubbles and stuff.
Wow this is the easiest way Ive seen. I'm still too scared to do it, I might mess up lol. Why they can't just be stickers?
I accidentaly overchipped mine ... is there any way to remove the paint from the transfer ? I dont have another one to replace it . If it helps they are ultramarine transfers , the redemptor dreadnought ones , one is the yellow circle with the number II on it and the other is an Ultramarine symbol , same as the suit's ones
You can always paint over it - especially on the white one it's easy to match the color. But with a bit of mixing you should also be able to match the other one!
@@trovarion Thanks , ill try
micro-what? I don't understand the word
One is micro sol but what is the first one?
@@XCATX25 micro set
bump