Rust removal & protection with a reinvented old recipe
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- Опубліковано 4 лип 2024
- A simple method to remove rust when you cannot use mechanical means such as grinding or a wire wheel brush because that would spoil the object that need to be de-rusted.
This video showcase an experiment using stronger concentration of weak acid and a revisitation of an old recipe to provide protection to the metal once it has been cleared from rust.
Also is presented a review of the various kind of oxides that attack iron or steel, providing a hint to distinguish them and thereby choose the best process to remove the oxide or rust.
By the way, did you know tetanus is not carried by rust?
Experiment series: • How I chemically remov...
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Website: accidentalscience.com
0:00 Introduction
0:27 Distinguishing the various kind of rust/oxides
2:39 The misconception about tetanus and rust
4:09 Getting started with rust removal
5:09 Chemical experiment
6:46 Why this should work
10:04 Assessing the result
12:26 Protection of the metal
14:41 How to recycle and reuse wasted chemicals - Наука та технологія
👉 Acetic acid mostly comes from vinegar, that has a typical concentration from 3 to 8%. Vinegar is concentrated and acetic acid is thereby extracted. So even with the common vinegar you can achieve similar results, but taking much longer time. Though, if vinegar is kept hot, say 60°C (140°F), while treating the piece then you can shorten the required time to complete the operation.
3:03 The issue with tetanus is not typically one of wounds being contaminated with live bacteria but of contamination by bacterial endospores, which in an appropriate anaerobic environment will become actively reproducing bacteria. Those bacterial endospores are far more difficult to inactivate than live bacteria, requiring very high temperature or harsh chemical decontamination, which is why they are found nearly everywhere.
Yes. Thanks for the contribution.
I like the old fashion way with a wire wheel lol...
But that way removes material and it is hard to reach recessed corners. Thanks for commenting.
super glue accelerates linseed oil but be careful it is exothermic. This works really well on a lathe for finishing wood. Also, the rags should be never be put in a trash can because they can cause a fire. Iron + tannic acid tends to oxidize (which is why iron clamps for wood glue ups sometimes create stains). I wonder how the acetic acid impacts this Fe+ reaction. Finally, oxalic acid can remove stains in wood but I'm not sure what the chemistry is.
Very interesting.
The powder which came out of the hammer after the acid treatment, is not iron, it's carbon. Hammers are made of high carbon steel for strength, and carbon does not react with the acid. The same would happen also using hydrocloric acid
Excellent observation! I have to test it with a magnet.
👍
I have used white vinegar with great success. Is this acid similar in composition?
(For what it's worth, afterwards I wash the part in water then I scrub with bicarb of soda to neutralise the acid, then I dry it and I place it in my oven at the lowest setting, to completely dry so as to prevent oxidation)
Yes it is. Almost all acetic acid come from vinegar that is concentrated using various techniques. Vinegar has a concentration of acetic acid between 3 to 8 %. No neutralization is required, just rinse thoroughly. Backing in a oven is a good idea to make the treated object really dry but then you have to protect the bare metal with oil or with the technique I shown in the video.
I thank you for taking the time to reply to me, always good to learn new things.