class idea to use the hinge jig to create a longer jig. ill be doing that the next time i do a house full of doors. since i bought that jig of you its made fitting doors so much faster and if its on new frames then its even faster still
Just on my second year adult apprenticeship and I can not thank your enough for your videos. I learn so much more from your videos at times than I do from other guys on site.
Great video, I’ll hang a door just like you’ve described, the only difference is I’ll initially use decent screws like Reissers or similar. Once everything is tickety boo I’ll swap over the screws (with a combi drill set to a sensible torque) to the screws that come with the hinge pack/ latch as these are invariably inferior and go in reasonably well into the prescrewed hole (this takes an extra minute or two but the screw heads look mint)
very similar to what I do, its all in the preparation, I use the trend hinge jig for hinges and have made a jig for latch etc, I did 11 doors the other day, client came in and was shocked. I told him its years of developing skills, efficient methods and allso the fact we spent time fitting the frames well, nice to see people doing things well. 👌 top job as allways.
For me it was Jack planes, Yankee screwdrivers and sway braces. I would have loved to have all those power tools. These are excellent tips for all those aspiring chippies and amateur chippies.
Hi Robin Love your videos. as a C&J myself always good to see what other C&J do. But a quick question How about doing a door hanging video on hanging a door in an old building with old out of square heads & frame. Then that would show how difficult it can be ?
Yes please robin. I fit fire doors in a 500 year old mansion and accommodation blocks everyday. Self taught but any tips would be great. Not a square decent lining insight. Made a splicing in jig similar to one you made a while ago. Works a treat. Thanks for all your help.
As a carpenter myself I come across door linings where I have to install 44mm and 35mm internal fire doors into uneven frames I.e uneven door heads, current regs state your not aloud to trim the door heads as it’ll affect the fire door sticker on the head so your able to achieve a gap of 3-4mm across the head of the door because when you offer the door into the frame it could 25mm out of level so what are the options then?? Install a new lining so it’s all level again??
@@shaunlovelock hi mate. I come across this problem everyday. As I work in a place which is listed I scribe the top of the door and lip it. And if possible reattach the sticker but most of the time the sticker is long gone. If the gap is to large I sometimes can refit the lining using wedges. Or replace it if it’s to bad.
Worth its weight in gold. Quite separately, we have developed a way of working exactly the same as yours. A couple of extras: We use the hinges with rounded corners so that the rebate left by the router matches the curve of the hinge. One job saved We position the screw holes on the hinge rod so that they will be hidden by door stops when they are fitted afterwards. We are not worried by the screw holes in the door as they are hinge side In doors, as in most things, you can pay through the nose for something. However, you only get what you pay for. A cheap door pleases the wallet at the time of purchase but it won’t stay cheap for long.
As a joiner my self l do use jigs and love them weather you make them or buy them l like the way you work l hope your apprenticeds appreciates your teachings well done sir 👏👏👍
Nice to see good practices and simple procedures , very well trained,,,, remember new standards for a 78 or a 2040 ,, 6/9. And a 2p coin in the back of your hinge check but a pleasure to see proper joinery living on a bit longer yet !!!
Some great tips thanks. How much extra clearance are you adding on when you make your own linings? I just picked up a lining and its only 2mm wider than a finished door, i dont want to plane my new doors. Thank you
If swinging doors is a common occurrence then jigs are essential whether it be for marking for the spindle and bolt through bolts and the face plates and keepers. Also highly recommend investing in either the souber lock jig or the trend version as it will speed up the process. I also invested in a door skate to save the back and arms from heavy lifts.
I know you said you dont like to put a leading edge on a pre finished door but what about 44mm doors? I find the gap is too large if i don't put a leading edge on a fire door.
Hi robin long time viewer first time commenting iv just started into wood work ( the gaffers made me lol ) I jus wanna thank you you have saved my butt so many times when I get stuck I look for a some guides and you have all the answers to my problems like having you on site with me thank you so much I need those jigs mate
I made a full length jig too robin but I use the thickness of 1 hinge leaf on the frame before I fix it to frame. Then flush it to rip of door. That way every door and casing are exact every time
outstanding vid Robin ... can't figure out what to say that haven't said before ... it's truly superb how much you share the experience and passion. hope you are having a perfect week on that side of the glorious ocean.
One tip re the latch keep, you can get a black plastic dust box which means you no longer see the hole chiselled out. Only an extra £1 each but makes a massive difference!!
cant help but wonder though, is that door going to touch the cieling in that room ? that would drive me nuts knowing its a new build ( almost) and the door will catch on the ceiling
Great video as always Robin, really lucky clients you have. When I hung new doors in my house I done them one at a time with my drill, hammer and chisel. I found it almost therapeutic, they got progressively better as I went along. I've never used a router before, could you recommend one for a DIY user, and what router bits would you recommend?
Great these videos, but how many door frames have a new lining? 😂 90% of my fitting life is working with twisted frames, out of square headers. Rest is easy if the frame is plumb and square.
Really enjoy watching your videos Robin - hung my 1st door a few days ago using your hinge jig which worked a treat! What drill bit do you recommend for drilling out the door latch? I've been looking at auger & forester bits..
Another great video Robin. Can you please tell me where you got the door stand from? I made my own but yours looks great as it holds the door higher up. Also what brand of ratchet screwdriver do you use? Cheers
Leaving big margins must niggle you a bit? I would agree on a house bashing site 10 houses plus but for high end houses its the details that matter, doors with tight margins reduce drafts, and less noise transfer, if a breeze catches it it doesn't slam as hard, and looks right to joiners eye! Maybe i'm just old skool?
Thanks for the valuable information, could you please remind us which is the top or the bottom of the door? It might be confusing for people from abroad, Thanks again
we've just had one of those type of doors hung, it fits fine but the frame is a little out of true so the door has about a quater inch of slope to it and if you look for it at the top you can see it
Is it just me but I've been using a trend skeleton jig for the last 15 year's and it just work's amazing fully adjustable and works with any casing loose stop or rebate. Can nock 20 doors a day on with it. What the hell are you fucking about at. And since wen did we stop leaving the clashing edge loose and wedging over to suit door.
I smash out 20 doors by 11.30 with the trend jig 😘😘 piece of cake. Each to their own but offering every door in and marking it up is too much faffing about!
Hi Robin, when you’re framing the rough opening what size do you make it for the different size doors? Do you always just add a certain amount over the size of the door being installed? Thanks, Zeff.
Door size plus 100mm or roughly 4 inches will give you plenty of play for packing as the average frame thickness is 35 to 40mm hope that helps just keep an eye on the heights as they change with width 🔨
@@donaloconnor3352 this was refering to setting the door stops away from the door but yes you would need a 2mm or so gap around the sides and head and some clearance on the bottom dependant on your flooring
@@donaloconnor3352 all around the door mate then by the time you've prepped and painted the door frame you will have enough clearance to avoid any binding
Robin if you went in to a house (not new build ) how many would you aim to hang in 1 day . I do 5 doors but I hear people saying they do 10 plus one guy said 17 😂 but that’s not going to happen others say 3
Robin - what height should the locks/handles generally be measured to? Is this something the manufacturer sets, or do you use a standard measurement? Love all of your videos and they are very instructive - and have watched all of the big build in awe. Keep up the good work!
I do them 42" from the floor as that was the height an old school joiner set them on our old house. Modern way is to put them in the middle but they look better a little higher.
Oh! C'mon Rob 🤣 Dehumidifier, bluetooth monitor gizmos. 🤣🤣🤣🤣 I can just see it now ( young site chippy while he's layed in bed, sorry boss I can't fit the doors today, my Bluetooth app says the humidity is wrong) see you next week 🤣🤣🤣
It's sad to see such a good job, and think that the average trader you'll hire will probably be quite bad and do a sub-standard job. Already been burnt a few times unfortunately. 😞
Because Paul, there is not enough tradespeople being trained and guys like us have a duty to pass on our knowledge to help others and maintain the productivity and building standards etc
Why on earth would a customer go to the expense of hardwood/ quality doors then accept frames with nail on door stops? Should be using proper rebate frames. Nail on door stops are for cheapest get it contract work I.e. council houses or starter homes. Not impressed at all.
@@ukconstruction that's obviously your experience but I'm shocked, I'm a professional landlord and have never had a frame with nail on stops, I've used numerous contractors and I've not had to specify rebate frames in all my years. I won't be convinced otherwise nail on stops are or at least should be the budget option. But thanks for the heads up if this is becoming the new normal I will make sure I specify "proper" frames.
Seems to be the opposite here. Vast majority where I live are rebated the traditional way, but then again there’s not many new builds. Never even knew slamming strips were a thing until about 10 years ago 😬
Never seen two joiners doing one door in my life trend skeleton jig for me and predrilled with drillgides. For dead. Centre il coming up 60 And could easy manage double the doors you guys manage in a day good work but slow way of working 😢😢
I have spent most my life racing through work generally for the benefit of someone else, I now choose to work at a pace that is far more enjoyable and the main reason that we both work on the doors is the weight... and mainly the fact that I am teaching Ed his trade
Because he wants you to buy one of his ones! Too much faffing about with a single hinge template, much better off with a full length jig otherwise you have to offer every door in and manually mark the hinges, way too time consuming!!
Very difficult to hear your words of wisdom on this episode. Of course I could be going deaf, or you are not speaking so loudly. Usual excellent results though.
class idea to use the hinge jig to create a longer jig. ill be doing that the next time i do a house full of doors. since i bought that jig of you its made fitting doors so much faster and if its on new frames then its even faster still
Nice one Paul!!. Thank you for watching and supporting me by buying a jig!!!
I just wish when I was starting out, I'd had someone as organised and skilled as you to coach me - Ed is a very privileged young man
Just on my second year adult apprenticeship and I can not thank your enough for your videos. I learn so much more from your videos at times than I do from other guys on site.
Great video, I’ll hang a door just like you’ve described, the only difference is I’ll initially use decent screws like Reissers or similar. Once everything is tickety boo I’ll swap over the screws (with a combi drill set to a sensible torque) to the screws that come with the hinge pack/ latch as these are invariably inferior and go in reasonably well into the prescrewed hole (this takes an extra minute or two but the screw heads look mint)
very similar to what I do, its all in the preparation,
I use the trend hinge jig for hinges and have made a jig for latch etc,
I did 11 doors the other day, client came in and was shocked.
I told him its years of developing skills, efficient methods and allso the fact we spent time fitting the frames well, nice to see people doing things well. 👌 top job as allways.
For me it was Jack planes, Yankee screwdrivers and sway braces. I would have loved to have all those power tools. These are excellent tips for all those aspiring chippies and amateur chippies.
5:59
Which Dewalt router is that?
Which Dewalt router would you recommend? (I'm already invested in the Dewalt ecosystem)
Hi Robin
Love your videos. as a C&J myself always good to see what other C&J do.
But a quick question
How about doing a door hanging video on hanging a door in an old building with old out of square heads & frame. Then that would show how difficult it can be ?
Great idea
Yes please robin. I fit fire doors in a 500 year old mansion and accommodation blocks everyday. Self taught but any tips would be great. Not a square decent lining insight. Made a splicing in jig similar to one you made a while ago. Works a treat. Thanks for all your help.
As a carpenter myself I come across door linings where I have to install 44mm and 35mm internal fire doors into uneven frames I.e uneven door heads, current regs state your not aloud to trim the door heads as it’ll affect the fire door sticker on the head so your able to achieve a gap of 3-4mm across the head of the door because when you offer the door into the frame it could 25mm out of level so what are the options then?? Install a new lining so it’s all level again??
@@shaunlovelock hi mate. I come across this problem everyday. As I work in a place which is listed I scribe the top of the door and lip it. And if possible reattach the sticker but most of the time the sticker is long gone. If the gap is to large I sometimes can refit the lining using wedges. Or replace it if it’s to bad.
I'm a joiner, and I know this guy is at a well higher level evan from his other videos, pure class!!!!
Worth its weight in gold. Quite separately, we have developed a way of working exactly the same as yours. A couple of extras:
We use the hinges with rounded corners so that the rebate left by the router matches the curve of the hinge. One job saved
We position the screw holes on the hinge rod so that they will be hidden by door stops when they are fitted afterwards. We are not worried by the screw holes in the door as they are hinge side
In doors, as in most things, you can pay through the nose for something. However, you only get what you pay for. A cheap door pleases the wallet at the time of purchase but it won’t stay cheap for long.
As a joiner my self l do use jigs and love them weather you make them or buy them l like the way you work l hope your apprenticeds appreciates your teachings well done sir 👏👏👍
Great video. Masterclass. Just love all the jigs, clamps, and stands etc. Also glad I'm not the only one that finishes screws by hand.
Already have the mdf jig. Can’t wait for the latch jig and aluminium hinge jig !
Nice to see good practices and simple procedures , very well trained,,,, remember new standards for a 78 or a 2040 ,, 6/9. And a 2p coin in the back of your hinge check but a pleasure to see proper joinery living on a bit longer yet !!!
in oak doors i drive a good screw in first before using the supplied ones one for the hinges.
Stainless steel screws can shear and the heads can come out.
Some great tips thanks. How much extra clearance are you adding on when you make your own linings? I just picked up a lining and its only 2mm wider than a finished door, i dont want to plane my new doors. Thank you
If swinging doors is a common occurrence then jigs are essential whether it be for marking for the spindle and bolt through bolts and the face plates and keepers. Also highly recommend investing in either the souber lock jig or the trend version as it will speed up the process. I also invested in a door skate to save the back and arms from heavy lifts.
Hey Robin love the hinge jigs. Can’t wait for the lock /latch jig!!
Hi have hung hundreds of doors, old houses new houses, electric planer ,hand tools, templates sometime, easy no jigs .!!😊
I know you said you dont like to put a leading edge on a pre finished door but what about 44mm doors? I find the gap is too large if i don't put a leading edge on a fire door.
Hi robin long time viewer first time commenting iv just started into wood work ( the gaffers made me lol ) I jus wanna thank you you have saved my butt so many times when I get stuck I look for a some guides and you have all the answers to my problems like having you on site with me thank you so much I need those jigs mate
I made a full length jig too robin but I use the thickness of 1 hinge leaf on the frame before I fix it to frame. Then flush it to rip of door. That way every door and casing are exact every time
he`s so good isnt he? really appreciate these kinds of vids, so much good insider knowledge in these, love watching you rob mate. superb pal
Thanks Jon!!
Always enjoy your videos Robin. You make it look so easy. Learnt so much from you.
Fantastic! Good man Robin!
So nice when the framing has been done right. Easier (but not as easy as you make it look!)
As always another great video
outstanding vid Robin ... can't figure out what to say that haven't said before ... it's truly superb how much you share the experience and passion. hope you are having a perfect week on that side of the glorious ocean.
Thank you Thor, hope you are enjoying the sunshine there!!
Always enjoyed watching your videos. Well explained. Thank you for sharing
One tip re the latch keep, you can get a black plastic dust box which means you no longer see the hole chiselled out. Only an extra £1 each but makes a massive difference!!
Recently fitted those in all my latch keeps. Looks so much neater 👌
He's been in the game a long time I think he. Already knows 😴
very nice work
cant help but wonder though, is that door going to touch the cieling in that room ? that would drive me nuts knowing its a new build ( almost) and the door will catch on the ceiling
Just so simple advice. JUST LOVE UR WORK. XXXX
Any reason why you don't use hinges with radius corners that can be installed directly in a routed pocket without needing to chisel in sharp corners?
Great video as always Robin, really lucky clients you have. When I hung new doors in my house I done them one at a time with my drill, hammer and chisel. I found it almost therapeutic, they got progressively better as I went along. I've never used a router before, could you recommend one for a DIY user, and what router bits would you recommend?
Whichever one you already have batteries for mate .
Great vid Robin very organised, can you do one where the door does not fit the opening i.e maybe an old cottage.👍👍
A gentleman professional.
Great tips Robin 👌. Especially you take your doors off for painters. I like to do the same myself. It's a much neater job.
I’m nearly through the whole big build series….. one of the best building channels on UA-cam. Cheers Robin and the team great info.
Thank you Shane!!
@@ukconstruction will you be making a striking plate jig we can buy?
@@kaponekapone8042 yes mate!!
I like the metal jig, you could add a top and bottom spring block behind so you don’t have to clamp it on? Just a thought 🤔
Great these videos, but how many door frames have a new lining? 😂 90% of my fitting life is working with twisted frames, out of square headers. Rest is easy if the frame is plumb and square.
I need to get some jigs and a smaller router looks like a real time saver
Great video
Really enjoy watching your videos Robin - hung my 1st door a few days ago using your hinge jig which worked a treat!
What drill bit do you recommend for drilling out the door latch? I've been looking at auger & forester bits..
Another great video Robin. Can you please tell me where you got the door stand from? I made my own but yours looks great as it holds the door higher up. Also what brand of ratchet screwdriver do you use? Cheers
@Jack aren't they screwdriver sparks use? A bit delicate for carpentry
Great tips ....how much gap do you allow for on door in frames .....3mm hinge ...3 mm close side ....?? ...thanks
where did you get your door stands ? and your hingjig?
Leaving big margins must niggle you a bit? I would agree on a house bashing site 10 houses plus but for high end houses its the details that matter, doors with tight margins reduce drafts, and less noise transfer, if a breeze catches it it doesn't slam as hard, and looks right to joiners eye! Maybe i'm just old skool?
Great video, rhanks Robin !!!!!!!
A bar of soap for screws helps with screws , the jigs are a good idea
Thanks for the valuable information, could you please remind us which is the top or the bottom of the door? It might be confusing for people from abroad, Thanks again
The large horizontal rail is always the bottom
Thanks
I'd like to see you explain how to hang a door in a pre existing frame in a victorian house where nothings square, straight or level please.
Ok Russell I will do one in due course
Do you use your 18ga Milwaukee to fix architrave and skirting too? Cheers
we've just had one of those type of doors hung, it fits fine but the frame is a little out of true so the door has about a quater inch of slope to it and if you look for it at the top you can see it
Quality my friend 👍
Thank you 👍
And it’s good when your help is Ed, who’s young and looks strong.
Making it look easy again 👍
How much time would you say it takes to fully install a door in a new frame ?
30 mins if the lining is in good shape!!!
So many tools you young lands have nowadays !
Hi Robin, when are those shortie pattern bits going to be available?
Hi Ross, they should be in stock on my website today!!
i would like to see a video on making a door stand. not many people unless they are regular door fittters will for out £70 for an ox pro door stand.
Leave it with me!!
There are a few makes now available for door stands. I made my own from scrap wood. Unfortunately I cant post a picture.
Great Desperate Dan whiskers. I hope you had a nice cow pie for dinner 👍
Hi Robin! Any chance of getting a van tour soon?
Well it needs a wash!!
do you still get £40 a door?
Is it just me but I've been using a trend skeleton jig for the last 15 year's and it just work's amazing fully adjustable and works with any casing loose stop or rebate. Can nock 20 doors a day on with it. What the hell are you fucking about at. And since wen did we stop leaving the clashing edge loose and wedging over to suit door.
I smash out 20 doors by 11.30 with the trend jig 😘😘 piece of cake.
Each to their own but offering every door in and marking it up is too much faffing about!
Hi Robin, when you’re framing the rough opening what size do you make it for the different size doors? Do you always just add a certain amount over the size of the door being installed? Thanks, Zeff.
Door size plus 100mm or roughly 4 inches will give you plenty of play for packing as the average frame thickness is 35 to 40mm hope that helps just keep an eye on the heights as they change with width 🔨
@@tomsmith9048 thanks 👍🏼
I've always used a piece of the cardboard from the latch and handle set when setting the gap for the stops
Do you set the gap the whole way around the door or just hinge side?
@@donaloconnor3352 this was refering to setting the door stops away from the door but yes you would need a 2mm or so gap around the sides and head and some clearance on the bottom dependant on your flooring
@@mitchellchubb4797 I was referring to the door stops aswell. Is there a gap between stop and door at the top and both sides or just hinge side?
@@donaloconnor3352 all around the door mate then by the time you've prepped and painted the door frame you will have enough clearance to avoid any binding
What model no. of Dewalt router is that you use Robin?
Where can I pick up your hinge jig
Hi Karl, There is a link in this video description
Robin if you went in to a house (not new build ) how many would you aim to hang in 1 day . I do 5 doors but I hear people saying they do 10 plus one guy said 17 😂 but that’s not going to happen others say 3
Hi Mate!!, I reckon that do a proper job, nice and tidy then 3 or 4 is plenty!!
@@ukconstruction ok thanks il get you and Ed a coffee ☕️
Robin - what height should the locks/handles generally be measured to? Is this something the manufacturer sets, or do you use a standard measurement? Love all of your videos and they are very instructive - and have watched all of the big build in awe. Keep up the good work!
Hi as rule of thumb, I always go a metre from bottom of the door, can never go wrong
I do them 42" from the floor as that was the height an old school joiner set them on our old house. Modern way is to put them in the middle but they look better a little higher.
Also depends where you are. In the UK the regs are anywhere between 950mm and 1100mm from the floor
1 meter above floor level is pretty standard
Oh! C'mon Rob 🤣 Dehumidifier, bluetooth monitor gizmos. 🤣🤣🤣🤣 I can just see it now ( young site chippy while he's layed in bed, sorry boss I can't fit the doors today, my Bluetooth app says the humidity is wrong) see you next week 🤣🤣🤣
I have no come backs so it works for me!!
I think we need to start making bigger doors and linings for eds generation
I agree! The top of my head hurts! 😂
Ya mates tall, i bet that comes in handy sometimes
Nice work Robin! Looking great 👍🏻
Shame more tradesmen aren’t like this feller,,,
There's lots of us out there but people don't want to pay more than they make in a day 🤦♂️🔨
show us how to splice our mistake in pls
your some hand mate
👍
only track temperature without any indicator other than emails. It's not very useful in most cases
Gold card
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
It's sad to see such a good job, and think that the average trader you'll hire will probably be quite bad and do a sub-standard job. Already been burnt a few times unfortunately. 😞
What does your apprentice eat over there? He has to duck to go through the doorway.
About 5 of my meals a day !!!
Ha ha...i was going to say zomthing similar. When he was standing in front of the door, he did look like a giant
And all that for 40 pounds a door 🤦♂️ and a smidgen of washing up liquid on the tip of your screws will keep them cool when fitting 😎 🔨
I’m sorry I’m still a hammer and chisel hinge fitter
Why does everyone have to post what they do on line and give away trade secrets.
Because Paul, there is not enough tradespeople being trained and guys like us have a duty to pass on our knowledge to help others and maintain the productivity and building standards etc
@@ukconstruction I think the way apprenticeships in the building industry has gone is criminal.
We are losing potential quality tradesmen
Pro tip number 1, take off your shirt when building.
Why on earth would a customer go to the expense of hardwood/ quality doors then accept frames with nail on door stops? Should be using proper rebate frames. Nail on door stops are for cheapest get it contract work I.e. council houses or starter homes. Not impressed at all.
Nail on stops are used in I would say 99% of all refurb and new builds in the UK, its just what is done, internal rebated frames are a rarity.
Ok Rich😅
Rich please stop chatting shit
Only on an external grade frame would you have a rebated frame 🙄
@@ukconstruction that's obviously your experience but I'm shocked, I'm a professional landlord and have never had a frame with nail on stops, I've used numerous contractors and I've not had to specify rebate frames in all my years. I won't be convinced otherwise nail on stops are or at least should be the budget option. But thanks for the heads up if this is becoming the new normal I will make sure I specify "proper" frames.
Seems to be the opposite here. Vast majority where I live are rebated the traditional way, but then again there’s not many new builds. Never even knew slamming strips were a thing until about 10 years ago 😬
Never seen two joiners doing one door in my life trend skeleton jig for me and predrilled with drillgides. For dead. Centre il coming up 60 And could easy manage double the doors you guys manage in a day good work but slow way of working 😢😢
I have spent most my life racing through work generally for the benefit of someone else, I now choose to work at a pace that is far more enjoyable and the main reason that we both work on the doors is the weight... and mainly the fact that I am teaching Ed his trade
Why are you not using the Trend Skeleton hing jig you used in one of the SkilBuilder videos? would it not work on this site?
Because he wants you to buy one of his ones! Too much faffing about with a single hinge template, much better off with a full length jig otherwise you have to offer every door in and manually mark the hinges, way too time consuming!!
Very difficult to hear your words of wisdom on this episode. Of course I could be going deaf, or you are not speaking so loudly. Usual excellent results though.