You could have easily skipped that last part with re drilling the hole, but you didn't and that is so amazing, I think that stopping for a sec assessing and deciding to taking the longer route but getting better finish is what makes a huge huge difference. Because I can just imagine the frustration if someone is like lets just quickly change the pin, and discovering that you have to modify the hole in the pin. A lot of what makes something done professionally is preventing unpleasant surprises with your product or service, which is exactly what you did. Amazing job, great video and thanks for sharing.
i can appreciate the way you manage your way through a challenging job and improvise as you go. to me, that’s a true craftsman. i love your videos, they’re informative and inspiring
Great job again. I’ve been line boring for 25 years and every jobs a challenge. I have had reasonable success by driving in brass rod into large pin holes in the bores it seems to help keep the tool loaded and reduce the shock of the interrupted cut.
i have no idea why watching this stuff is so riveting, most people would be board, but i feel relaxed and entertained by this stuff, i watch that other cutting edge engineering, he does the same sort of repairs to stuff that looks like it's ready for the scrap heap, well done !!!
You’ll get a great following eventually, CEE has an excellent videographer working with him and a long history of this kind of work and obviously his channel is a strong source of income as he’s upgrading all the time. Be patient, you’re doing great so far
@@snowballengineering forgot to ask, have you tried SNMG insert? that way you could do left & right hand cutting so you dont have to remove/set the tool that many times. The smallest SNMG holder (if my memory serves me well) is 16mm, but you can grind them down to fit in the bar.
Shop made line borer working great. DTI holder clamp is brilliant, personally I'd stick with analog clock, dont forget the bezel rotates, to zero it. Great job, thanks for sharing.
Well done. Like you said another lesson learned and if you can remember it for next time you will be well on your way to becoming a master machinist. Excellent job thinking your way through it and sharing it with us so we all get to learn. It takes a humble person to share the good with the bad so good on you to doing so. Thank you!
Well done on the well deserved 10k subs. Meeting snags and overcoming them is what it's all about in the real world. I'm glad your not temped to edit those bits out. Thanks for posting.
Awesome. I enjoy your problem solving approach to making videos. Insert holders are very easy to make and you can make them just the way you need them.
You will never bore me with line boring jobs! I think line boring is fascinating. I look back to the days on our little farm when we didn't have people like you that could fix these sorts of things with envy of farmers in your area! p.s. I just found you a week or so ago from Watch Wes Work and I am catching up on your past vids.
I love watching your approach to problem solving on these line boring jobs. Thank you for sharing your work on your channel. Just a thought that if you had a 10mm or 12mm test hole through your boring bar for a dummy pin you could use it as a final go/no go when setting up the drilling position of the bearing supports. I wouldn't have even realised that it was a problem if you hadn't demonstrated it - and your fix.
Looking forward to the camera upgrade. Then you will have a learning curve with that. Line boring seems to be a fiddly job. Each one a bit different. And throws up a new challenge. If you can keep making the videos. Hopefully they will soon be contributing nicely towards new equipment. Giving you an even bigger scope of work. You have the ingenuity. CEE North Yorkshire here we come.
I must say that the portable line borers are a fantastic tool, but at times a jig borer can be a much easier proposition. Well done the job came out well.
You do a damn fine job and explain where things did not go quite to plan and what you did to correct it. Given the old bent up crap you generally work on you are allowed a few bad eggs in my book!
Hi, great work on the boring bar and drive, very innovative. Have you considered a pair of “scissor plates” with bores of the same size as your boring bars so that you can set accurate centres on the bars and then use cones to centre the bars in the worn out housings then weld the bracket bolts to suit. Advantage would be accurate and repeatable centre lines but a double setup in some cases. You would need to use a better cone setup to quickly adjust them, screw adjusted as you mentioned would work. A dummy short pin with the centre centre drilled for using trammles to do a 2 bore axis alignment for the 3rd bore axis work, doesn’t sound right but hard to explain. Continue the creative thinking, and looking forward to your next adventure in welding. Take care.
Forgive me if I’m being slow, but to measure the hole after the boring pass, could you ‘vernier’ the bar, and then vernier the bar+tool extension - then subtract one from the other - and add that measurement to the bar+tool which should be the i/d of the hole just bored?
Hi Oliver With you drilling those holes for the twelve mill bolt you may need to look at bridge reamers .They are tapered from about 8 mill finish with a parallel of twelve I have used these on truck chassis’s fitting components like different spring hangers for tandem drive axles changing from single drive to all components to line up square to truck to drive straight. Desmond in Canada
For 20 years have used the bosch drill which is the same for drilling oak framed buildings.. good slow speed high torque drill but the gear at the end of the armature is prone to wear.... good job there bro!
Nice job, another robust repair of the 'Macgyver' overseas...The shop made bearing supports on 3 stands and removable bearing hubs are a brilliant idea! 👌👌We should definitely make this one too..
Thanks! My new tools arrived today like the ones you suggested. Having removable bearings is very helpful especially when you have to bore weld by hand.
There nothing like doing a job that first requires you to make a tool for the tool so your able to do the thing you were meant to fix in the first place. One day life will be easy
I reckon you want to weld a nut on the opposite side of your molegrip dti tool advancement thing, then you can wind a bolt into the backside of the tool, and it would sort of be held between the dti and the bolt and make fine adjustments a bit easier. Just a thought.
Hi Olliver, If I may be so bold to offer a suggestion. A good grade of brazed carbide tools works the treat on roughing and interrupted cuts. They are much tougher than the CCMT or center screw inserts and holders. CCMT style for light finish cuts. You will need a way to grind them though. Green wheel and a diamond wheel to get a good finish. And yes they shatter and break too, but when they do break you are not loosing a holder too. Just a thought. Cheers. Edit: congrats on 10K subs 👍
Hi Warren. Ah thanks, I’ll have to look into getting some of them. I’m soon realising line boring is one of them jobs where the more tooling you have the better.
I was thinking, once you go to round tooling for that line bore arbor, assuming the tool is proper length and not sticking out the bar at all; and the back side or end of the tool holder is machined square, you could use a depth mic to measure from the backside of the tool and advance the tool accordingly. At least for roughing and semi-finish cuts. Then use the indicator once to set for finish cut. The hole in the bar equates to a flat spot so the mic would sit square.
Could you have made a longer, say 1 meter, temporary pin with 12 mm holes and used that to align your boring jig mounts? Could even make a sleeve or collar to go from the temporary pin to boring bar size to hold the mounts while you weld them on.
Gday, no need to apologise, your content is worth watching no matter what it is, you said you need to lift your game filming on an iPhone, no need, what you got works so stick with it, I use a GoPro Hero 7, nothing fancy here, top job mate, cheers
I guess this would only be an option if your hole centres on your bar match that of the headstock and your holes in your bar are on centre. But, could you run bolts through the headstock and your bar to get the bar centred? Use the cones to stop the bar sliding off centre on the bolts.
Enjoy your content. Is the top surface of your carbide tool on the centerline of the bar. (Bar tool holes on the centerine of the bar?)The clearance beneath the cutting edge maybe insufficient and rub.
Thanks for your reply. Can you just measure the overall size of the bar including the tool protrusion and then the bar on its own, take one from the other which will give you the tool protrusion from the bar. Multiply this by two and add it to the width of the bar and you should have the swept diameter of the tool which should be the same size as the hole you have just bored. shouldn't it?
You could measure the stickout plus the boring bar: size should be (measued_size - boringbar_diamter)*2 + boringbar_diameter? If you have a caliper that large enough
I really enjoy the videos. I do have a question, any particular reason you run short-arc transfer vice spray transfer? You already take your time to weld on the flats, I think you would find some other efficiencies by doing so. Cheers
Just to keep the power at a sensible level to get a decent build up. Any more and the weld starts to run down and you lose consistency. That’s what I’ve found anyway.
When trying to measure the bore diameter when it's difficult to get your calibers in why not try to measure the bar + the tool protrusion and then add twice the tool protrusion to the diameter of the bar. This should give you the bore diameter - I think! Needless to say your ingenuity is inspiring. When lining your boring bar up you could try using a bush the same size as the bolt hole and a pin the same size as your boring bar hole, currently 10mm soon to be 12mm, and that should then give you a closer centre with holes badly worn or oval.
I’ve tried that but it’s difficult getting an actuate measurement of the tool height from the bar. It’s also difficult measuring the bar and the tool because you’re measuring over the tool hole at the other side. Yes, that’s a good idea. I know for next time.
As a fellow Englishman, I'm really enjoying your channel. Check out Cutting Edge Engineering's youtube channel. Kurtis does a lot of portable line boring. He has a few specialised tools, including a telescopic bore gauge which fits in the tool holder, so using an empty tool holder position you can drive it in, lock it at the bore diameter, then drive it out and measure it.
Thanks! Yes, Ive seen the tool you’re talking about. Not sure where I can buy one from. Have thought about making my own but havnt got around to it yet.
Sir Meccanica sell the tool you’re talking about. I have a WS2 SM line boring machine at home and an account with them I can get you a price and part numbers etc
All that work and only one broken drill bit away from a disaster 😂😂. Don’t understand why you didn’t make bushes for the holes once bored out? Guess welding is better but a lot of work till Santa brings one of those rotary welding attachments 😂
Why bother line boring first ? Why not weld up low spots then line bore out a round hole of the desired diameter I am sure I missing something , looking forward to hearing
All sides of the bore were worn so boring it first ensures the hole is round again before welding. It also means the whole way around the bore is the same material. It’s considered the proper way of doing the job.
When you like somebody's videos so much you click on the like button even before watching the video finish😊
That’s awesome! Thanks very much!
@@snowballengineering You are welcome sir
Same here every time 👊👍stay one 👍
You could have easily skipped that last part with re drilling the hole, but you didn't and that is so amazing, I think that stopping for a sec assessing and deciding to taking the longer route but getting better finish is what makes a huge huge difference. Because I can just imagine the frustration if someone is like lets just quickly change the pin, and discovering that you have to modify the hole in the pin. A lot of what makes something done professionally is preventing unpleasant surprises with your product or service, which is exactly what you did. Amazing job, great video and thanks for sharing.
i can appreciate the way you manage your way through a challenging job and improvise as you go. to me, that’s a true craftsman. i love your videos, they’re informative and inspiring
Great job again. I’ve been line boring for 25 years and every jobs a challenge.
I have had reasonable success by driving in brass rod into large pin holes in the bores it seems to help keep the tool loaded and reduce the shock of the interrupted cut.
Thanks, means a lot from someone with such experience!
A brass rod into the hole for the bolt?
Line boring jobs are not boring, keep them coming, they are all different. Excellent work 👍👍👍. Thank you for sharing. Be safe 🇨🇦
smile a bit :) your line borer works.
Rather nice tidy weld job Oliver 👌
Mark from Scotland 👍
Nice job. You are a hard worker and doesn’t cut corners.
Seriously impressive what you have achieved making that line boarer from scratch! Bloody amazing work!
Thank you!
...and it's pretty good too-(!)
I love the line Boeing jobs. Line boring is my new favourite thing
I love watching your videos. You don’t have all the toys and yet you make it work anyway. You are real life. Thanks for showing us how to do it right.
i have no idea why watching this stuff is so riveting, most people would be board, but i feel relaxed and entertained by this stuff, i watch that other cutting edge engineering, he does the same sort of repairs to stuff that looks like it's ready for the scrap heap, well done !!!
You’ll get a great following eventually, CEE has an excellent videographer working with him and a long history of this kind of work and obviously his channel is a strong source of income as he’s upgrading all the time. Be patient, you’re doing great so far
You are addictive 👍🇬🇧 I found your chanel last night & spent 4 hours watching instead of sleeping & the same is happening tonight 😂
Welcome aboard!
@@snowballengineering Thanks your welcome 👍 where is your workshop located ?
Swell little project!
Man @18:15 I crossed my fingers and toes for the insert to surface and not break! And I survived!
Well done!
Greg
Me too 🤣
Thanks Greg
@@snowballengineering forgot to ask, have you tried SNMG insert? that way you could do left & right hand cutting so you dont have to remove/set the tool that many times. The smallest SNMG holder (if my memory serves me well) is 16mm, but you can grind them down to fit in the bar.
Fantastic, I always know I’m in for a treat when you post a video
Shop made line borer working great.
DTI holder clamp is brilliant, personally I'd stick with analog clock, dont forget the bezel rotates, to zero it.
Great job, thanks for sharing.
Well done. Like you said another lesson learned and if you can remember it for next time you will be well on your way to becoming a master machinist. Excellent job thinking your way through it and sharing it with us so we all get to learn. It takes a humble person to share the good with the bad so good on you to doing so. Thank you!
Well done on the well deserved 10k subs. Meeting snags and overcoming them is what it's all about in the real world. I'm glad your not temped to edit those bits out. Thanks for posting.
Thanks!
Yes, absolutely.
Beautiful pin fit! Your piece of kit is right up there with the store bought. Well done!
Awesome. I enjoy your problem solving approach to making videos.
Insert holders are very easy to make and you can make them just the way you need them.
Please dont apologise for your line boring videos. Its still really good content and I'm happy to watch it!
Hi Oliver, I do a bit of line boring on buckets. I sometimes use the tool hole on my boring bar to check the pin holes for alignment and parallel
You will never bore me with line boring jobs! I think line boring is fascinating. I look back to the days on our little farm when we didn't have people like you that could fix these sorts of things with envy of farmers in your area! p.s. I just found you a week or so ago from Watch Wes Work and I am catching up on your past vids.
I love watching your approach to problem solving on these line boring jobs. Thank you for sharing your work on your channel. Just a thought that if you had a 10mm or 12mm test hole through your boring bar for a dummy pin you could use it as a final go/no go when setting up the drilling position of the bearing supports. I wouldn't have even realised that it was a problem if you hadn't demonstrated it - and your fix.
Looking forward to the camera upgrade. Then you will have a learning curve with that. Line boring seems to be a fiddly job. Each one a bit different. And throws up a new challenge. If you can keep making the videos. Hopefully they will soon be contributing nicely towards new equipment. Giving you an even bigger scope of work. You have the ingenuity. CEE North Yorkshire here we come.
We get to see your solution to the jobs you get. Nothing boring about that, even when it involves boring.
Another awesome video, keep them coming,
The kiwi
Phew, I think I would have chosen to drill offset holes in my pin. Good on you for doing it right.
Your a clever and resourceful young man ,well done
You went back n fixed it, all that matters imo 👌👌🤘🤘🤘
Good job well thought through to overcome issues. Best wishes with your sub numbers.
I must say that the portable line borers are a fantastic tool, but at times a jig borer can be a much easier proposition. Well done the job came out well.
You do a damn fine job and explain where things did not go quite to plan and what you did to correct it. Given the old bent up crap you generally work on you are allowed a few bad eggs in my book!
Awesome video, great work. Thank you Oliver
Thank you too!
Don't apologize. Line boring always seems to sell well on youtube. It's "visual ASMR."
another excellent and enjoyable video
Great well executed job, we are all learning all the time 👍👍👍
Hi, great work on the boring bar and drive, very innovative.
Have you considered a pair of “scissor plates” with bores of the same size as your boring bars so that you can set accurate centres on the bars and then use cones to centre the bars in the worn out housings then weld the bracket bolts to suit.
Advantage would be accurate and repeatable centre lines but a double setup in some cases.
You would need to use a better cone setup to quickly adjust them, screw adjusted as you mentioned would work.
A dummy short pin with the centre centre drilled for using trammles to do a 2 bore axis alignment for the 3rd bore axis work, doesn’t sound right but hard to explain.
Continue the creative thinking, and looking forward to your next adventure in welding.
Take care.
Forgive me if I’m being slow, but to measure the hole after the boring pass, could you ‘vernier’ the bar, and then vernier the bar+tool extension - then subtract one from the other - and add that measurement to the bar+tool which should be the i/d of the hole just bored?
Hi Oliver
With you drilling those holes for the twelve mill bolt you may need to look at bridge reamers .They are tapered from about 8 mill finish with a parallel of twelve I have used these on truck chassis’s fitting components like different spring hangers for tandem drive axles changing from single drive to all components to line up square to truck to drive straight.
Desmond in Canada
For 20 years have used the bosch drill which is the same for drilling oak framed buildings.. good slow speed high torque drill but the gear at the end of the armature is prone to wear.... good job there bro!
You are doing fine. No need to apologize.
Pozdrowienia z POLSKI😊
Hello in Poland
😊
Nice job, another robust repair of the 'Macgyver' overseas...The shop made bearing supports on 3 stands and removable bearing hubs are a brilliant idea! 👌👌We should definitely make this one too..
Thanks!
My new tools arrived today like the ones you suggested.
Having removable bearings is very helpful especially when you have to bore weld by hand.
Outstanding work 🙂🙂
There nothing like doing a job that first requires you to make a tool for the tool so your able to do the thing you were meant to fix in the first place. One day life will be easy
To keep rust off the tools, try insulated tool cases with heater built in. Use a small wattage light bulb for example.
Congrats on 10000 great video.
Thank you!
I reckon you want to weld a nut on the opposite side of your molegrip dti tool advancement thing, then you can wind a bolt into the backside of the tool, and it would sort of be held between the dti and the bolt and make fine adjustments a bit easier. Just a thought.
Job done!
Every day is a learning day. You make welding look so easy, but I bet it’s not.
Your correct. Speed is critical To fast and the surface of the steel will work hardened and the cut will chip.
Can't get everything right all the time. Got to see you adapt, rather than just accepting defear😄
Hi Olliver, If I may be so bold to offer a suggestion. A good grade of brazed carbide tools works the treat on roughing and interrupted cuts. They are much tougher than the CCMT or center screw inserts and holders. CCMT style for light finish cuts. You will need a way to grind them though. Green wheel and a diamond wheel to get a good finish. And yes they shatter and break too, but when they do break you are not loosing a holder too. Just a thought. Cheers. Edit: congrats on 10K subs 👍
Hi Warren. Ah thanks, I’ll have to look into getting some of them. I’m soon realising line boring is one of them jobs where the more tooling you have the better.
You really need to reach out to Curtis for advise as he is really at the top of the game, I'm sure if you did he would be more willing to help.😊
I was thinking, once you go to round tooling for that line bore arbor, assuming the tool is proper length and not sticking out the bar at all; and the back side or end of the tool holder is machined square, you could use a depth mic to measure from the backside of the tool and advance the tool accordingly. At least for roughing and semi-finish cuts. Then use the indicator once to set for finish cut. The hole in the bar equates to a flat spot so the mic would sit square.
walking back the size of bite could help save those cutting teeth, naturally it's more cut to get the hole done but it saves on tools
Could you have made a longer, say 1 meter, temporary pin with 12 mm holes and used that to align your boring jig mounts? Could even make a sleeve or collar to go from the temporary pin to boring bar size to hold the mounts while you weld them on.
Gday, no need to apologise, your content is worth watching no matter what it is, you said you need to lift your game filming on an iPhone, no need, what you got works so stick with it, I use a GoPro Hero 7, nothing fancy here, top job mate, cheers
Thanks Matty. I’ll stick with it then, the iPhone is very handy because it’s always in my pocket anyway.
У меня тоже так ломало державку и пластину
As your own teacher you learn so much. As long as you paid attention in class and remember what you taught your self. LOL
Top man .....well done on 10K
Thanks!
Once you do the first bore out of the holes could you make a bush to fit in rather than welding up and boring again? Or is that not practical?
That’s called a bush fix 🤣
Could you have used a through pin, in one of the tool bit bore holes to have aliened the shaft with the bolt holes during the original set up?
Yes, looking back that’s probably how I should of done it. I know for next time.
I guess this would only be an option if your hole centres on your bar match that of the headstock and your holes in your bar are on centre. But, could you run bolts through the headstock and your bar to get the bar centred? Use the cones to stop the bar sliding off centre on the bolts.
I could have done it with one, chances are the second wouldn’t match up but it would of been a good help.
Not boring at all!
What do you mean when you said you preheat so it doesn't draw to much power out of the weld?
Have you considered desigining and making a bore welding attachment for your rig?
Yes, I have one now. There’s a video on it.
@@snowballengineering cool I will watch. just stumbled on your channel recently great watching.
Those holes will also be work hardened a bit as well. Ceramic just won’t handle that.
Ei, that's 99% perfect contact surface, well done job; it have not to be perfect; the factory usualy ask 97+% pass QC so you did it better👍
Do youknow what center height is on a lathe?
Just woundering what you smered on the outside of the bearings to stop the spater? cheers
I used Tip dip
@@snowballengineering Awsome, cheers mate, keep up the great work.
You need to make yourself a little snap gauge to accurately measure as you are boring. Nice work though.
Is a rotary welding torch on your to do list?
Yes, would be very handy
You have a Miller CV unit in the back ground, why are you not using it with your Mig spoul???😊
Just a thought- have you considered inserting bushes rather than welding
Welding is considered the proper way to repair this kind of job. Better than a bush.
Enjoy your content. Is the top surface of your carbide tool on the centerline of the bar. (Bar tool holes on the centerine of the bar?)The clearance beneath the cutting edge maybe insufficient and rub.
It’s above centre. The old tool I was using before was below and it was rubbing. These ones are better but still not perfect.
Have you tried using a bit of cutting fluid?
Yes, doesn’t seem to make a great deal of difference.
Could have lined the bar up off them holes with a pin? Maybe? Congratulations on the big subs 👌 well deserved
Could of done maybe, I didn’t recognise it as being an issue to start with so never thought to check. Thanks!
is that a bore welder i see coming over the hill ? 🤔
Yes 🤣 well it’s at the top of the list anyway
Thanks for your reply. Can you just measure the overall size of the bar including the tool protrusion and then the bar on its own, take one from the other which will give you the tool protrusion from the bar. Multiply this by two and add it to the width of the bar and you should have the swept diameter of the tool which should be the same size as the hole you have just bored. shouldn't it?
Thanx for the entertainment brooo...
You could measure the stickout plus the boring bar: size should be (measued_size - boringbar_diamter)*2 + boringbar_diameter? If you have a caliper that large enough
I’ve tried that but it’s difficult because you’re measuring over the tool hole at the other side of the bar.
@@snowballengineering ahaaa indeed.
Those new tips look like Aluminium cutting tips, can't you use HSS tools
The new bigger tools have arrived so hopefully I won’t have anymore problems with them.
I really enjoy the videos. I do have a question, any particular reason you run short-arc transfer vice spray transfer? You already take your time to weld on the flats, I think you would find some other efficiencies by doing so. Cheers
Just to keep the power at a sensible level to get a decent build up. Any more and the weld starts to run down and you lose consistency. That’s what I’ve found anyway.
Thanks for sharing can we have another fergi vid
Thanks for watching.
Yes, when I build up enough enthusiasm to tackle it again.
Couldn’t you just bring the bar from the other side and clean up the back side
When trying to measure the bore diameter when it's difficult to get your calibers in why not try to measure the bar + the tool protrusion and then add twice the tool protrusion to the diameter of the bar. This should give you the bore diameter - I think! Needless to say your ingenuity is inspiring. When lining your boring bar up you could try using a bush the same size as the bolt hole and a pin the same size as your boring bar hole, currently 10mm soon to be 12mm, and that should then give you a closer centre with holes badly worn or oval.
I’ve tried that but it’s difficult getting an actuate measurement of the tool height from the bar. It’s also difficult measuring the bar and the tool because you’re measuring over the tool hole at the other side. Yes, that’s a good idea. I know for next time.
As a fellow Englishman, I'm really enjoying your channel. Check out Cutting Edge Engineering's youtube channel. Kurtis does a lot of portable line boring. He has a few specialised tools, including a telescopic bore gauge which fits in the tool holder, so using an empty tool holder position you can drive it in, lock it at the bore diameter, then drive it out and measure it.
Thanks!
Yes, Ive seen the tool you’re talking about. Not sure where I can buy one from. Have thought about making my own but havnt got around to it yet.
CEE!
Sir Meccanica sell the tool you’re talking about. I have a WS2 SM line boring machine at home and an account with them I can get you a price and part numbers etc
If you could please, that would be helpful. Thanks
All that work and only one broken drill bit away from a disaster 😂😂. Don’t understand why you didn’t make bushes for the holes once bored out? Guess welding is better but a lot of work till Santa brings one of those rotary welding attachments 😂
Weld is better than a bush 😄
Jcb keeps a Line borer in business.
После ручной наплавки тяжело протачивать !!! Тем более наплавил поперёк а не по кругу
Why bother line boring first ? Why not weld up low spots then line bore out a round hole of the desired diameter I am sure I missing something , looking forward to hearing
All sides of the bore were worn so boring it first ensures the hole is round again before welding. It also means the whole way around the bore is the same material. It’s considered the proper way of doing the job.
Can you please do something about the sound it is very hard for me to here you. Thank you for you vidieos
Got out of some nasty sand bunkers
Footage too fast, harder to follow 😢, I'm learning. Thanks mate. Hooroo se ya later
Which bits are too fast?
Торцевать надо было резцом что бы 90 градусов получилось относительно отверстия
Are you a dairy farmer also?
friend of mine in the same business uses Russian inserts. are cheaper and last longer