I'm recently retired, have been a wannabe machinist since High School and recently purchased a small lathe. Thanks so much, Lee, for providing yet more info on what you can do with machines. I can begin to feel me getting sucked in and realizing other expensive stuff can help my accuracy and broaden the possibilities of stuff I can make. All I have ever used to cut threads was the Craftsman kits. I just saw threads in the Stainless or Aluminum and the screw or bolt mated up with them nicely. I spent a great deal of time in the marine industry so SS and AL were the metals I used mostly. Bronze sometimes but not often. Thanks for taking the time to do this, Lee. I know it's not easy to do this and explain it as well as you did. I look forward to the next one. All the best ... Jim
I guess its a good thing nobody ever told me you couldn't cut new threads with a die because I've been doing it for about fifty years now, with no problems what so ever. In spite of the critics Lee, good video and a great job on a very useful tool. I bought a set of Craftsman taps and dies when I was about 20 years old, and I am still using them to this day without ever having to replace any of the dies. Not bad for a $50.00 set of taps and dies. Thanks for all your videos Lee.
Yep, same here... I've got a Craftsman SAE set with the handles, then a Craftsman metric set with 17 different sizes... I've probably had them for about 30 or 35 years...
I've used the hex dies marked start from this side and had no problems; didn't know there was a difference. I'm never too old to learn. We used to say all bricklayers are singers but not all singers are bricklayers, Greg.
Some are under the misguided concept that hex dies are ALL re-threading dies. I have seen Hex dies in both threading and re-threading, the same with round dies. If a die is imprinted "start from this side", then it is most likely a THREADING die as it will have lead in taper in the threads. Looks like you had a good setup of feed, speed, and depth of cut, the chips were breaking. That is a mottled finish. Good work. Good video.
The hexagonal thread chasers they are talking about were never like these . These are Craftsman Dies. I have two sets of them that I have had for years. They are made in two sizes as you describe them. The thread chasers which I also have are very cheap and soft.
Excellent video and content. I have to agree with you that hex dies will cut very good threads. I have a metric and imperial set I have been using over 50 years, never had a problem. Thanks for the video.
Excellent content Lee. I've been wanting to make one for myself. Looking at your belt sander it looks like you made it also. Great looking sander as well. Thanks for sharing as always.
Great idea Lee - I do like when possible to point thread part the way and finish with a hex as against use that from the start. Some though do cut very adequate threads. The use of the cut off socket is very nice idea.
Thank you so much for making this vid! I have Gearwrench set of taps/dies. The dies are in 2 sizes of hex. I was wondering how I could mill accurately a hex hole to make a die holder for the lathe. Your brilliant idea of sacrificing a socket solved that for me. I'll just need to make 2 holders.
I've got the big set, also. I'm planning on just boring to the large dimension of the dies, and put three set screws around the outside. Drop the die in the recess, snug the screws down, and it'll hold it plenty securely. No real reason to use a socket...
There is a definite difference between thread cutting and re-threading dies. Re-threading dies will not cut a new thread worth a darn. All re-threading dies are hex but not all hex dies are re-threading dies. I spent most of my career in the tool supply business and I sold Vermont American taps and dies. VA threading dies are hex as are many of the Craftsman dies. There seems to be a lot of misinformation out there. Great build, looks like I have yet another project to add to my ever growing list.
You are absolutely right they are not the same and with my eyes, on the 1/4" + I can see the difference in the geometry of the threading and re-threading die. Young bucks may be able to see the smaller sizes. I think the hex dies were originally designed for chasing, but that is NOT the case now.
Thank you for that I always thought all hex dies where thread chasers but you cleared that up with me. All thread chasers are hex but not all hex are chasers Thank you!
I too was in the tool business and at different times sold Snap-On, Mac and finally Matco. All three companies had tap and die sets with either 12 point or hex dies made by Hanson and or Hanson Ace. Snap-Ob had the 12 point dies, Mac and Matco had hex dies. It's been many years ago now but if memory serves me right the Snap-On 12 point dies were also adjustable just as many round dies are. These were not rethreading dies but actual threading dies. The ability to use a socket or a wrench on the die made them handy for mechanics with a need to cut threads in a tight place using their normal sockets to turn the dies.
@@pyromedichd1 Several years ago one of the high profile UA-cam machinists suggested that all hex dies were rethreading dies. It created a lot of confusion. Thus my comments.
Lee I too have hex dies, one of my craftsman sets are 40 years old. I went a different route and modified a deep 1 inch socket, however like the square drive on your unit. I tend to get my sockets at auto parts stores because it handy, not the same quality as my old craftsman ones that are 40 years old
I have always cut new threads with a hex die from Sears. I guess they are better than anyone thought. One complaint, that was going to be my next project, now I got to find something else to do or they will say I copied you. GRRRR. Well you done a good job innyhow.
I never new there was difference but never had a problem. I once had a ace hardware brand and they were a pile of junk. Harber fraight makes a decent set.
@@petebetts376 you can heat it up and quench in motor oil to apply a durable "black oxide" finish. you need to apply more than one coat, though, to get a good layer of carbon on there. a coat of lye is used commercially, before the oil, but i find 5 or so coats of oil works just as well, though it takes a little longer. getting it hot and keeping it hot with a little propane torch while brushing oil on has worked the best for me.
@@leeknivek found, good finish, heat, put in oil, (found basic, new engine oil) , allow to cool in oil, then reheat and quench and pull out, allow to drain and dry gets nice results..
@@skipydedo and that's easily avoided... just don't run the lathe, and use the adjustable wrench or 1 inch open end to turn the die with the spindle locked. I thought that's what he was going to do, but man, that does look dangerous the way he did it...
I'm recently retired, have been a wannabe machinist since High School and recently purchased a small lathe. Thanks so much, Lee, for providing yet more info on what you can do with machines. I can begin to feel me getting sucked in and realizing other expensive stuff can help my accuracy and broaden the possibilities of stuff I can make. All I have ever used to cut threads was the Craftsman kits. I just saw threads in the Stainless or Aluminum and the screw or bolt mated up with them nicely. I spent a great deal of time in the marine industry so SS and AL were the metals I used mostly. Bronze sometimes but not often. Thanks for taking the time to do this, Lee. I know it's not easy to do this and explain it as well as you did. I look forward to the next one. All the best ... Jim
I guess its a good thing nobody ever told me you couldn't cut new threads with a die because I've been doing it for about
fifty years now, with no problems what so ever. In spite of the critics Lee, good video and a great job on a very useful tool.
I bought a set of Craftsman taps and dies when I was about 20 years old, and I am still using them to this day without ever
having to replace any of the dies. Not bad for a $50.00 set of taps and dies. Thanks for all your videos Lee.
Yep, same here... I've got a Craftsman SAE set with the handles, then a Craftsman metric set with 17 different sizes... I've probably had them for about 30 or 35 years...
I came here looking for instructions for making a die holder. Mission accomplished. I rate this video as 5/5. A perfect presentation. Thank, you.
I've used the hex dies marked start from this side and had no problems; didn't know there was a difference. I'm never too old to learn. We used to say all bricklayers are singers but not all singers are bricklayers, Greg.
Some are under the misguided concept that hex dies are ALL re-threading dies. I have seen Hex dies in both threading and re-threading, the same with round dies. If a die is imprinted "start from this side", then it is most likely a THREADING die as it will have lead in taper in the threads. Looks like you had a good setup of feed, speed, and depth of cut, the chips were breaking. That is a mottled finish. Good work. Good video.
The hexagonal thread chasers they are talking about were never like these . These are Craftsman Dies. I have two sets of them that I have had for years. They are made in two sizes as you describe them. The thread chasers which I also have are very cheap and soft.
No more jerky video, I like the socket idea. Good project. I use Hex dies all the time to cut new small threads.
Excellent video and content. I have to agree with you that hex dies will cut very good threads. I have a metric and imperial set I have been using over 50 years, never had a problem. Thanks for the video.
Sacrificial socket is what I learned. Very good practical.
Very nice work. I need to make one myself. He he another day
Excellent content Lee. I've been wanting to make one for myself. Looking at your belt sander it looks like you made it also. Great looking sander as well. Thanks for sharing as always.
Nice project, thanks for sharing!
Great idea Lee - I do like when possible to point thread part the way and finish with a hex as against use that from the start. Some though do cut very adequate threads.
The use of the cut off socket is very nice idea.
nice build as always i made mine to fit all 3 die sizes
Very nice job Mr Lee
Great work. Thank you for sharing
Great job and good idea!
Great video amazing work!,,,
Good video, Lee!
Nice work
hello Lee,nice video,thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much for making this vid! I have Gearwrench set of taps/dies. The dies are in 2 sizes of hex. I was wondering how I could mill accurately a hex hole to make a die holder for the lathe. Your brilliant idea of sacrificing a socket solved that for me. I'll just need to make 2 holders.
I've got the big set, also. I'm planning on just boring to the large dimension of the dies, and put three set screws around the outside. Drop the die in the recess, snug the screws down, and it'll hold it plenty securely. No real reason to use a socket...
Lee nice work.
There is a definite difference between thread cutting and re-threading dies. Re-threading dies will not cut a new thread worth a darn. All re-threading dies are hex but not all hex dies are re-threading dies. I spent most of my career in the tool supply business and I sold Vermont American taps and dies. VA threading dies are hex as are many of the Craftsman dies. There seems to be a lot of misinformation out there. Great build, looks like I have yet another project to add to my ever growing list.
You are absolutely right they are not the same and with my eyes, on the 1/4" + I can see the difference in the geometry of the threading and re-threading die. Young bucks may be able to see the smaller sizes. I think the hex dies were originally designed for chasing, but that is NOT the case now.
Thank you for that I always thought all hex dies where thread chasers but you cleared that up with me. All thread chasers are hex but not all hex are chasers Thank you!
I too was in the tool business and at different times sold Snap-On, Mac and finally Matco. All three companies had tap and die sets with either 12 point or hex dies made by Hanson and or Hanson Ace. Snap-Ob had the 12 point dies, Mac and Matco had hex dies. It's been many years ago now but if memory serves me right the Snap-On 12 point dies were also adjustable just as many round dies are. These were not rethreading dies but actual threading dies. The ability to use a socket or a wrench on the die made them handy for mechanics with a need to cut threads in a tight place using their normal sockets to turn the dies.
@@pyromedichd1 Several years ago one of the high profile UA-cam machinists suggested that all hex dies were rethreading dies. It created a lot of confusion. Thus my comments.
Excellent video!
Grandeeeeeee!!!!👍👍👍👍
ive had good results using cold gun blue too... nice job
Great video. I cannot understand why you can find hex die holders for the lathe. Great build.
Lee I too have hex dies, one of my craftsman sets are 40 years old. I went a different route and modified a deep 1 inch socket, however like the square drive on your unit. I tend to get my sockets at auto parts stores because it handy, not the same quality as my old craftsman ones that are 40 years old
Good videro, thanks.
I have always cut new threads with a hex die from Sears. I guess they are better than anyone thought. One complaint, that was going to be my next project, now I got to find something else to do or they will say I copied you. GRRRR. Well you done a good job innyhow.
The last die and tap I bought from Brownells to do 1/2x28 barrel thread was hex. It did a great job. I didn't know there was a difference.
I think they make rethreading dies only in hex but not all hex are rethreading dies.
What make is your belt sander the portable one you used on the lathe ? .enjoying your videos
i sawed the handles off the die holder like comes in the set and turned it round as my insert.
I use hex dies to cut new threads frequently. They work just fine. Lonnie
I never new there was difference but never had a problem. I once had a ace hardware brand and they were a pile of junk. Harber fraight makes a decent set.
I never new there was a difference.
I think there is a surface grinder on your list!
Hi there I would to buy one of die holder please with 16 mm die .can I use it with ratchet spanner?
Lee. What type of die was that with no reliefs for the chip? I don’t think I have ever seen one like that.
It has reliefs on the other side. It is a strange looking die, but yeah, it looks like one side is closed up.
Why did you not turn the diameter instead of doing it on the mill
Around the 30 minute mark, you talked about blueing the parts,....400 degrees F,...then place in oil?...is that right...?
Cheers
pete betts No oil, just heat.
Cheers,....like the look,...plus on paint to wear off...
@@petebetts376 you can heat it up and quench in motor oil to apply a durable "black oxide" finish. you need to apply more than one coat, though, to get a good layer of carbon on there. a coat of lye is used commercially, before the oil, but i find 5 or so coats of oil works just as well, though it takes a little longer.
getting it hot and keeping it hot with a little propane torch while brushing oil on has worked the best for me.
@@leeknivek found, good finish, heat, put in oil, (found basic, new engine oil) , allow to cool in oil, then reheat and quench and pull out, allow to drain and dry gets nice results..
why are you drilling undersize, drilling exact size, and then reaming .... only to bore away all that work?
He only bored where the die is held. The rest is where the holder slides on the bar mounted to the tailstock.
Thought you had a surface grinder
So many things wrong with this and how u did it....sad people think it's good work.....
Like what? Bunkey, IF he got the part done to spec how is it he did it wrong? 10 bucks says you can't even read a mic.
agree, holding it with a spanner ???? could really hurt and do some damage !!
@@skipydedo and that's easily avoided... just don't run the lathe, and use the adjustable wrench or 1 inch open end to turn the die with the spindle locked. I thought that's what he was going to do, but man, that does look dangerous the way he did it...