Why I Hate the Husqvarna 13" Hatchet-- Review
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- Опубліковано 15 кві 2016
- I really dislike this hatchet In spite of over 280 amazon reviews averaging 4.5 stars
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Examining, feeling and handling this tool has resulted in a lot of expletives, brow furrowing and head shaking. This will be a fairly in-depth review of this hatchet. That is the point. It is the review I would’ve liked to have seen before buying it. But there are other reasons to read this post besides deciding whether to buy this or not. I will also touch on many points relevant to hatchet design, handles and use that are relevant to anyone interested in acquiring, restoring and using hatchets. All of that relevant material will be covered elsewhere eventually, but it can be seen as something of a primer for some of the posts and videos to come in the future regarding the selection, care and use of hatchets.
I’m a huge hatchet fan. I’m frequently shocked that some people I know, who very well ought to own a decent one, don’t own even a crappy one. To be fair, some of them own large chopping type blades of some kind that serve similar purposes, but many don’t. A good chopping tool is indispensable to conducting a lifestyle that is very engaged with local resources, and to crafting and making stuff from raw wood without using power tools. A basic woodworking toolkit to me is a hatchet, a knife, a saw an a rasp. When it comes to reducing a chunk of wood to the rough shape you want to make something, hatchets are pretty awesome. I don’t necessarily favor hatchets over all other options, that is a long standing debate, and entirely contextual, but they are great for certain things and very versatile. I have been on the lookout for many years for a quality affordable new hatchet that I can recommend to people but sadly the subject of today’s review is not that hatchet. There is a popular resurgence in axes and hatchets but at this point the majority of what’s out there in terms of reviews are still by inexperienced users. As a result, there is not a whole lot of substantial well considered information to go on when researching this for purchase. I looked at quite a few reviews of this hatchet before I bought it, but I’ve been generally disappointed at the lack of critical reviews on axes and hatchets in general and just didn’t find that much that was useful. I found nothing at all like what this review will be, very critical with many points considered in the context of considerable experience.
Keep in mind in this review that I have quite a lot of experience using hatchets. I use them for carving, splitting, limbing, chopping and have packed them around a fair amount. This experience spans over a long period of time, going on about 30 years. I’ve owned and tried quite a few of them and just chopped my way through a lot of wood over the years, filing, restoring, breaking handles, re-handling, making mistakes. I do not spend much time reading about hatchets and axes on forums or anywhere else unless I’m looking for something to buy or review. It’s not a hobby, it’s an extension of my interests and lifestyle. I expect certain things from a hatchet and it has to perform in my context and not limit me unnecessarily with it’s design or build quality. I’m just running this design through my experience as a long time hatchet user who has developed opinions based on experience, which I am more inclined to trust than the majority opinion. I know this hatchet gets a lot of good reviews. It has over 280 reviews on amazon at an average of almost 4.5 stars. There are people with websites and youtube channels who seem to have none of the gripes I have with it. It is not my intent to disrespect anyone else’s opinion or experience just for the sake of it, or for the sake trying to be radical. The truth is though that I think this design is lame and I feel it’s my duty to say so plainly with no punches pulled.
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4:13: "I have not used this."
Lmao! Ya I hate Toyota, i never drove one but i looked at one and iv driven lots of cars so they are trash.
One of my teachers who used to work in forestry uses these for pounding wedges, freeing up stuck saws, etc. He swears by them. The design seems a lot more suited to that kind of use, and it would make sense if that's the original intent since it's manufactured by Husqvarna. It's a really robust, overbuilt design that's made to take a lot of stress. But for camping or bushcraft I imagine it would be way too clumsy. It should not be marketed as an equivalent to Wetterlings or Gränsfors Bruk camping axes, this is a wear-and-tear tool for rough use and not something you're gonna be bucking wood or carving feather sticks with.
yes, that makes sense. If you look at it that way, it might be a great design, just not very versatile. A wedge and a hammer. It should be called the Husqvarna chainsaw tray hatchet. It is clumsy and stiff as a hatchet, even for peeling bark.
I think it's good for what it's made for, but probably pretty crap for camping, bushcraft and especially woodworking. Of course, one of the things beside the robust design that makes it suitable for beater use in the forest is that it is relatively cheap.
Husqvarna makes gardening and forestry tools, and we should keep that in mind. Looking at the hatchet info on their website, they say it "can be used for cutting branches or splitting small campfire wood", which I dare say it can. People on UA-cam shouldn't market it as some sort of great bushcrafting hatchet, or a cheaper alternative to Gränsfors, Wetterlings or similar. Recommending this type of axe for bushcraft is a pretty good indication of somebodys lack of knowledge, I think.
I'm not sure why they would think it needs to be forged. The other two axes in that line look much more promising design wise, but I would never buy one without sorting through them in person to find a good one.
When you pointed out the fact the eye of the head is too big even for a full size axe handle, your attention to detail and experience really shined.
I do a lot of axe work for the National Park Service, and I wouldn't even have noticed that until I went to change the handle.
I own one and love it. Awesome hatchet. I have been carrying axes and hatchets for years.
I would totally just keep that thing in the cabin for kindling, too. On the other hand that little (not red) hatchet you rehafted twenty years ago is super sweet.
I don't know why I started watching you talk about a hatchet for 24 minutes but I enjoyed it. I bought a very cheap hatchet, it was so blunt it hurt me more than the logs I was trying to split, but now I've been watching your channel I might try filing it down. Here in England we call the implement we dispatch fish with (I think you called it a fish club) a 'priest', apparently because it delivers the last rites - a useless bit of trivia there for you. Keep up the good work.
+Tom Merchant The priest, I like that :) Most axes and hatchets come resally blunt and need some major filing, often way back up into the blade. I'll eventually do some more stuff on that type of thing, though I don't have it figured out for sure. that's a whole other bag of worms.
Tom Merchant rights *
He had it right. It's "rites". Look it up.
What would be a good alternative
I've had one for few years and i'm extremely happy with it. I use it for pounding wedges when felling trees and because of the heavy head it's perfect for my needs.
same usage here
Why not just use a hammer?
NOT being an ass, honest question.
@@sarahgraves7107 Because with hammer all you could use it for is pounding wedges but with an axe you can pound wedges, limb trees and most importantly it'll help you get your saw unstuck whenever the bar gets pinched. Not to mention the need of removing bark on sketchy trees to inspect the tree before felling it. And sometimes i use the axe as pickaroon to carry bucked firewood. I also use it for splitting kindling to get a fire going so i could burn the branches and the list just goes on.
@@firewoodwarrior4396 you didn't say that. You said that you use it to pound wedges. period
You suck at conversations lmao, your so annoying and negative
Hello! Thanks for the outstanding and genuinely considered content. I have a question along the lines of this video.
I just purchased a Council Tool #2 Hudson Bay Camp Axe with 18" handle through amazon. My first impression is the axe is ok. After watching the video I'm having some reservations.
I am a beginner in axes. I have a wood burning fireplace and occasionally cut kindling. I will take this camping, if they let us out this summer. I would like to become a more informed user, hence the recent purchase and the video watching. That being said, I'm hoping to gain your perspective.
The CT #2 has a two pound head. Like you mention in the video, it's a big axe head on a short handle. It is slightly off center and crooked. The poll is a full on hammer sized obtrusion accounting for a considerable amount of weight. On the plus side, the head is mounted perfectly with no space around the handle and the handle is decent. I'll take some material off but it's good.
With the head out of alignment, should I return it? Should I buy a lighter hatchet? Can an axe head be shaped to make it lighter? I'm ready to file the bit, slim down the handle, use it, etc. If it is worth returning, I still can. Then again, its a cheap axe and I'll probably use it like a rookie and so it might be perfect (per your "don't buy an expensive axe" advice).
I will greatly appreciate your advice. You are very clearly informed by experience; the best teacher. Thanks again for taking the time to educate others.
Great video, really enjoy your channel. Could you do a video on making axe/hatchet handles?
Excellent explanations on these variations!
Such an excellent presentation. Subbed
The essential craftsman mentioned you in one of his videos and so far I've watched around 3 hours of your content and I have to say I'm very impressed with how thoroughly you get into your topics and I'd like to say thanks for doing what you do
Thank you Jason. Welcome :)
SkillCult
I’ve been really enjoying your content
I’m an axe man and have a fairly pathetic collection.
I’ve been working on doing my own handles and I really like your idea of a thinner handle
Right now I’m only able to buy hardware store handles but they’re doing alright so far
Anyhow you’re awesome and I appreciate what you do
Thanks
"I havent spent much time looking at reviews."
...
"Ive spent a lot of time looking thru the 265 reviews on amazon."
???
One refers to my general knowledge of axes and hatchets not being primarily from ingesting information and reviews. Yes, of course I look at reviews before I buy something. I also looked at more after I bought it to see what other reviews were like.
@@SkillCult Fav 50$ hatchet these days?
@@BOOSTEDLASER don't have one, but stay tuned. I picked a few up for review.
@@SkillCult I put an okay straight handle on an old Vaughn shingling hatchet... it's fairly lightweight, I forget the length, but maybe 15"?, and with a little dressing on the edge, it makes for a nice, general camp hatchet. I've used it for chopping kindling, cooking (the "nail puller" works great for grabbing the handle on my Dutch oven), and driving tent stakes with the hammer head.
It takes a great, sharp edge and holds it well. Probably harder than you'd want for an actual hatchet, but honestly works fairly nicely for a general purpose camp tool.
Bump, need to buy asap
Great review...your honesty is appreciated by many!
I also got some good laughs out of the honest review. Keep up the good work.
thanks!
Thanks for the video. You bring up tons of great points.
One of the most reasonable rants ever lol thank you! Sub'd
ha ha, thanks :)
Having a long bit accentuates your over strike error, the problem with that doesn't really come on the back end after the overstrike or miss hit or whatnot, it comes at the fore because your errors become more common.
Great videos. I've spent some time researching some hatchets and axes. This is another one of your vids that helped. Just beginning and slowly easing my way into using these tools. Keep it up!
Great hopefully I'm not misleading you overly much ;) Stay safe!
Great video and a honest look at the new axe craze.
😄 I agree on the thickness. First thing I do with new handles is put them in the vise and scrape off about a third
I have one and it didn't take me long to replace it with a Gransfors Wildlife Hatchet. I'm intending to modify it to try to improve it.
Very thankful for your perspective and time.
love that you take your time..
I have that husgvarna axe, it's ok to me, i own meny axes difrend handles and i like litle fat handles, and i notise how good that husgvarna is spoon carving its just good...
Great video. Thanks. Really useful
Hi,. I like the review. What would you recommend for a weekend backpack camper that wants to carry something something that is capable. I'll use it mostly for chopping down small trees and turning them into firewood. It should be lightweight.
I dont' have a new recommendation. Best I can say now is get a vintage head and put a handle on it 16 inches long. I hope to do more content on that in the future.
Thanks for the education. Good job. Good teacher. Obviously skilled in the craft. Helpful rant.
"helpful rant" I like that :)
Thanks, this explains why my hand cramps like crazy when I choke up on the handle for finer work with this hatchet.
Exactly. There is a point at which you'll have the same problem when a handle gets too thin. Still not sure what the best compromise is. I guess it would depend on the person and the use.
Have you thought about checking out the newer Husqvarna camping ax
Thank you for rhe honest review, whatis the one youd prefer?
Sorry, I still don't have one. I still think just a used hatchet head on a straight 16 inch handle is great.
the curves in that handle are for working small basic carving jobs like cutting a log flat on one side for a bench seat stuff such as that iv never used a straight handle before i must give that a try and see i may like them better im rambling lol love the video but iv got a serious question for you im in the market for a new unused hatchet what would be your choice im in Tennessee to give you an idea of my market and i will be carrying it a lot camping and such please help me out some id really appreciate it
I've used straight hatchet handles a lot more for everything and they work fine for me. I still can't recommend anything new for combination of design and cost.
@@SkillCult iv noticed it's sad every one you pick up no matter the brand i can't explain it's like they have totally forgotten how to make an ax or hatchet good luck my friend and i meant what i said please start forging your own you sir would be the best out there hands down loved the video
I have thought the same thing. I am in the process of putting a 24" handle on the head because I really want a short bush/wood craft axe and can't afford the pricey ones.
Cool, I hope it works out for you. Their 26 inch forest axe looks pretty good if you could find a lot of them to select a good specimen. I think it's about 70.00. our local husqvarna dealer stocks them a couple at a time.
I have this hatchet and like it, but none the less, great honest review.
At first I would like to thank you for your awesome channel and the variety of you projects, thoughts, clues and reviews. I do like the DIY Ideas on your channel - seems a bit like someone from the Youthcrew/DIY/Hardcore era... Great to watch - even though I've hardly find the time to watch, because I've too much projects running by myself.
Anyways, while I've encountered a similar problem regarding the handle on my Hultafors axe - I would like to shave my handle down a bit to get him more in like the Gransfors ones in terms of width and thickness. I remember a video link in one of your videos to another channel showing someones shaving down his handles - BUT i can't remember which video of all of yours that was... but would like to watch it to get some ideas and thoguhts about downshaving a handle. Can you help me finding that link - or do you have a video made yourself tackling that topic?
Best regards from Germany.
I haven't really tackled the subject in particular, more just in passing. I would just go for it. If you don't know what you want, keep the cross section and outline the way it is and just reduce dimensions systematically. Useful tools are a 4 way shoemaker's rasp, a knife for scraping or a spokeshave. Any of those tools will do the whole job, but the rasp will leave a lot of texture to sand out. I'd prefer to scrape it out with a knife usually. If you do the same number of consistent strokes per side, and work gradually, it should be hard to mess it up too bad. It's going to end up a matter of personal taste. The only dimensions I've seen offered are for hickory handles in Dudley Cook's The Axe Book, where he bemoans the thickness of modern handles. Peter Vido has an article on it on the the AxeConnected blog. Do a little at a time and use it. that's my recommendation.
a model review. to ask on the spur of the moment, what are your thoughts on the Gransfors hand hatchet?
I am not familiar, but probably not going to like any hatchet with a handle under 15 inches, preferably 16. I think their stuff is too expensive in general for what it is, and from what I've seen and heard, you should pick one out in person to avoid crooked heads. I did have a hatchet head of theirs that I put a handle on. I remember liking it, but I lost it some years ago. This friend of mine said she could help me find it with some kind of astrology magic. She said look to the north east, and I was like north east of where! :) I like the looks of the almike hatchet on paper, but it's also expensive. I don't get to see this stuff in real life. I still think vintage or used is probably a good way to go for a lot people, and making your own handles if you can. I could probably end up recommending a number of hatchets if they would just put on longer handles. anything under 15" is pretty much out of the question for me unless planning to replace it, which is again a reason to just go vintage in the first place.
I just picked up a 28" Council Tool axe. Love it so far. Had to work a couple hours to get it personalized and sharpened. I like the Hudson Bay pattern for a camp axe. Great reviews! Subbed.
If you don't count the axe itself, the handle is actually 25 inches. Nice size, fits on my ATV just fine.
I like the council 28 inch boy's axe. I decided I didn't like hudson bay pattern a long time ago, but I might have to revisit it now.
Yeah I think they are fine for camp work. I actually thought I was ordering their 20" hatchet but I accidentally ordered the longer one but I actually like it so I'll keep it. I'll order their 20" later, good pack ax or easy work. What state are you in? I'm down in New Mexico.
I'm in California.
Awesome review. Do you happen to have tried the Rinaldi axes from Italy? They look interesting and i wonder what you think of them?
I haven't People ask a lot.
yes, i understand. Anyway, i find myself interested in axes lately. I like your comments on the flexibility of handles. It makes a lot of sense. I happen to live near Malaysia, and they have an extreme version of "flexible" handles. If you are interested here is an link on really flexible handles of jungle handles. If you have not come across it already, you may find it interesting. Here it is: ua-cam.com/video/bgj0TNzYoOg/v-deo.html
And by they way, i find his channel very good as well.
oops sorry, i just realized, you recommended that link in one of your videos a year ago
Wranglerstar's review would have been slightly different
Fk that guy and his clickbait bullshit videos for wannabes.
Marry him then
😂😂😂 yeah every circus needs a clown
I'm glad I watched this. I actually had this in my shopping cart from Amazon. I've never had a good hatchet or camp axe. What would you recommend to a newbie like me?
Unfortunately, I still don't have a good recommendation. Vintage is good, but no one makes 16 inch handles. Probably hard to even find a 15 inch handle.
@@SkillCult Thanks for the quick reply. I went with the Husqvarna general forest axe or whatever they call it. I saw this as the best compromise to a cheap hardware brand and not as expensive as a Gransfors Bruks. I just wanted something decent to process wood for backpacking, kayak camping and my fireplace. Good advice and I appreciate your insight in your vids.
@@c.latrans1338 That is a real tool. You've probably seen it, but I have a whole series on modifying that axe.
@@SkillCult I've learned a lot from your vids. I use to abuse every axe I ever used. I would get one, usually given an old P.O.C. leave it outside, go out the next day, use it again. Miss, break it and get another cheap one from where ever usually garage sales and such. This time around it will be different. Ill take care of the Husqvarna for sure, work on the handle and oil it. Thanks again.
A good hickory handel is around $8 retail with wedge. Beaver tool co makes them.
A large foundry can make an axe head rather quick and cheap. Scandinavians have tax breaks for the foundry to make them shipping bulk across ocean is really affordable. A curve handel gives more leverage. pre 1895 axe handels were straight now we call that a miners axe handel. In a curved handel you want the pivot to be front of eye to back of top handel give or take for what hang of axe head and that is dependent on what wood you will cut be it pulp or hard. What angle grind for fine tune. Forest service has a guide called axe to grind gets into some detail. Handel length for example is forearm = hatchet, instream= axe, fingers to sholder= boys axe, camp axe difference is head size weight. You take an axe based on a soft wood angles and design it will suck hitting hard wood it will need to be tuned.
Thanks for your input. You've had good luck with the Beaver Tool handles? House Handle is terrible.
SkillCult Yes, Beaver tool co has accurate descriptions and if you ask for specific grain or shape they accommodate the best they can
@@SkillCult I just bought two handles from Beaver Tooth, one was a 13-14 inch Scout type, the second was a 19 inch House Ax model that fits a 2.25 lb boys axe head. Both were white hickory (no heartwood) that was waxed, not varrnished. I asked them not to ship anything with a grain that was off by more than 15 degrees. I think they charged about $2 for the higher grade handles. I think total cost, including about $8ish for shipping, was around $28-29.
I'm very happy wth the color and grain of the wood. I was already considering thinning the handles a bit, more so now that I see it is not just me that thinks many handles are two thick. Based on your review, I'd say you'll want to thin the handles as well. But their handles are mildly curved, so you might be happier making your own. Anyone that wants to buy a nice handle and just thin it down to their tastes should be vey happy if they receive handles similar to what I received.
I've kicked around the idea of making an octagonal hatchet handle. It seems like it would solve many of your complaints on handles, and i think it would be pretty comfortable using it to carve with. But I think it would be so ugly I wouldn't like to use it. I'm okay with an octagonal axe handle though, for some reason. Perhaps they aren't ideal for today`s Bush crafting market, and it sounds like they may be too curvy for your preferences, but I love the look of the thin, curved handles with a fawn`s foot, like those found on the Plumb Scout hatchets made in the 50`s and 60`s.
I think you're bang on in your assessment that tools like these are marketed to those unfamiliar with using them. They're designed more for aesthetics than function
Very interesting points and I can understand why you have them, particularly if you largely cut softer woods. I especially agree with the handle criticism. I still ordered one however because the head is the same shape and weight as my favourite hatchet which was an old bahco. I find that weight and shape perfect for carving in hardwood (in Oz all the wood seems hard!) as I can let the head do the work. However I'm also 6'4" with large hands. That bahco was also very efficient at splitting kindling. What is interesting is that the old Aussie hatchets have a very similar shape. Anyways looking forward to mine coming (lost the old bahco) and will be thinning out the handle to take out some of the curve too.
Wow, you're big! That makes a difference to be sure. I hear that a lot of australian wood is brutally hard.
While everything that you say in this video is probably true for you, you may be in the minority on some of your opinions. I have the Hults Bruk version of this Hatchet, other than the touch mark and the handle markings, they are basically the same. I also live on a homestead, I live on 52 acres in rural Texas and I use some kind of an axe on pretty much a daily basis and have for the last 20 years. Before that I still used hatchets and axes, but just as a kid doing country chores or as a cub scout, boy scout, and later explorer scout, before the military. I also have the Husqvarna Carpenter's axe which has a similar, but longer handle, which I think may be the best bushcraft axe available. I like thick handles in all size axes, especially when I am using them for carving. You do have to push past the initial hand discomfort when you are new to them, but they exist for a reason. A thick handle doesn't slip or twist in the hand even when you get sweaty. Like I said before, I live in Texas and I still use axes when it is 110 degrees outside. The thick sections gives you control under all conditions. As for the axe eye size, all of Hults Bruk's hatchets have that large eye, that is not a justification just a statement. They have been making axes since 1697 and are the oldest existing axe maker in the world, but that doesn't mean that they know what they are doing, just that they have been doing it a long time. It is also entirely possible that I have spent the last 40 years of my life settling on what is or was available.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I agree to some extent on the carving hatchet handles, but this one is just way outside of anything I would consider using. I actually don't think I've ever seen a handle this thick on any sized axe. This year I really noticed that if I used my gransfors forest axe for over 45 minutes or so it would start to punish my hands and wrists from the shock. And that is after already thinning it down some to make it acceptable to use. I suppose it ultimately is a matter of taste and priorities, and we have different bodies and different circumstances such as amount and duration of use and what we're cutting and so on. There is no doubt that handle shock is real though and while I try not to accept other peoples opinions as my own without any experience, I'm in good company on the thin handle thing. I know Mors Kochanski, Dudley Cook, Kephart and Peter Vido all talk about it. I do mention in this video that the thinnest handled hatchet I show is what I want for flexibility, but it does not provide as much control as I'd like. The interplay between flexibility and gripability/control is the question that I'm most interested in right now when it comes to hatchet Handles. I feel that for me it will be a compromise trading one for the other to some extent. Or, the answer may be to have a fairly meaty handle with a narrowed area near the eye as is found on straight hammer handles. That is how I have my hewing hatchet set up. it's not ideal but it works pretty well and if I'm chopping bark or shaping wood for long periods of time that flexibility is important to me. The Husqvarna has practically no flex and feels thudding and clumsy. It is also way too big to grasp near the eye comfortably, so as it comes stock, that is not even an option, at least not for my hand size.
+SkillCult my apologies if you've already answered this but what model/brand is that hatchet with the lighter and straight handle that you said you like? (Not the one with the red blade)
I don't know. It doesn't have a marking. It had a cheapo tropical hardwood handle, so it's probably something really cheap. It doesn't matter that much, there are jillions of similar hatchets out there. Whatever it is, cheap or not, the temper is even, it sharpens up fine and seems to hold an edge, it is ground well enough to cut well right out of the box, and it is well finished. The council camp axe (the red one) is not well ground or well finished and it's 25.00 Without a bunch of work, it's basically a kindling hatchet. That could be okay, but given that the handle is really short, I just don't see the percentage in messing with it, when there are vintage heads at that price and less. The best looking out of the box options I've seen are about 130.00 the most intriguing of which is the Hults Bruk Almike amzn.to/28X8XrV I've never seen it in person though and I'd be very wary of buying any hand forged axe or hatchet sight unseen unless it is returnable or the vendor will promise to pick out the best of the lot for you and of course knows what to look for. Plug and play is nice, but you'll pay for it and you can learn a lot fixing up an old tool.
BTW, I was just looking in Kephart and he says his hatchet was 1 lb 10 oz with a straight 17 inch handle made by himself. The one you are referring to is 16 inches and 1 lb 12 oz, so fairly similar. Too much heavier and it starts to become less carryable and probably might as well be graduated to a longer handle and called a small axe.
Wranglestar made a video on this hatchet, on how to "improve" on it: basically, it was thinning the handle.
I’m thinking about getting the Fiskars x10 as kind of a universal tool, first hatchet, intro axe for some medium work, what do you think at first glance for just under $50? Down the line maybe i’ll get a nice 30” tool made with natural material for some real work, but what do you think from a first look of the x10? It’s 17”, weighs exactly 1kg (2.2 lbs), with the no eye design it has more weight in the more wedge shaped head which seems good for splitting and also maintains a good weight and balance for deeper chopping, it seems like a good all-rounder. I have to order on eBay though bc it’s not traditionally sold in US but the Gerber Freescape Hatchet is the same thing and is more easily acquired.
I'm not into anything that I can't replace the handle on. Otherwise, I can't comment much as I've not seen them in person. I have three hatchets here I'm planning to review and fit up for videos, so stay tuned. Still looking for something to recommend.
SkillCult I understand, but maybe you should reconsider as the fiskars do have a very large place in the market and one of the main selling points is the that the handle is guaranteed for life. I saw a UA-cam video of a guy doing over 200 overstrikes back to back on a pretty hard tree to test it’s durability with their 28” chopping axe and it didn’t have a single mark from it. I think it’s a video worth having on your channel, people would appreciate your input on something unique enough in the marketplace. Not to mention they come stock with the supposedly ideal 30 degree angled wedges. Whatever you do, like your videos.
@@ChiquitaSpeaks I've had an x15 for over 15 years. I find it to be a rather underwhelming performer, and you need to put a secondary bevel on that "ideal" angle or you will roll the edge. That said, its been on a lot of adventures and its still in one piece. I also have an x7, and I really do like that hatchet, very capable for its minimal weight. I personally dont like x10, feels awkward with both 1 and 2 handed use to me.
Thank you for this review. I appreciate your honest, educated opinion. Great channel!
Have ever heard of rinaldi? It's a traditional italian hand tool manufacturer. They got a pretty wide variety of axes and hatchets in various weights and styles, hand forged and the handles are straight
Recent subscriber. Very novice axe user and what you say seems to make some good sense. I would like to replace my first axe head and this looks like a good start. I have been trying to find an axe handle to fit the husqvarna head but cant seem to find one that has a 2x1 inch eye. I am new to this, but am I missing something or is this an odd size head that is hard to fit?
It's a totally weird size. Like the whole tool, it's sort of a shrunken axechet. You might have to make one, certainly will have to modify something.
@@SkillCult any idea where to start? A few forums have guys saying theyd like to turn it into an 18-20 inch. I am leaning in that direction.
What is the hatchet with the long handle? That looks like what I'm wanting. Thanks alot
Hi Jud. That's one I put together from a yard sale find. I filed on it a lot to make it that shape and try to balance it. I'm not sure of the brand. It was a 5.00 yard sale head. I might be doing a video soon of putting something like that together. You can't buy a handle like that though, so you have to make it yourself. If you mean the longer axe, that is a gransfors bruk forest axe.. They are very expensive and I think they are back ordered now. too so you can't even get one.
Hey I just got one and after watching the review I feel it was a mistake, it’s my first hatchet what shall I do, I was thinking of changing the handle with a 20’’ one.
Appreciate your feedback.
Im not personally a big fan of the handles in between hatchet and axe sized. but a lot of people like them for packing. If I did, that's probably what I'd have done with it. I just ended up selling it on ebay.
I agree, i have the same problems with my own!
@Skillcult, do you have a video on "heirloom" tools?
I do not.
I use it, and love it. Tried a gransfors out and sure it's better. Not $140 better though
Very well said, something can be said for elegant simplicity. This is a club by the sounds, glad I watched this, I was going to buy one.
"this is a response to the market" ... spot on :) mora just did that for the american market with the Garberg, heavy, unbalanced, doesn't cut well.. but a real hit with the survival american crowd ! ho.. and yes i have one :/
Saw one at Campmor and couldn't believe it was retailing for $90 bucks ... I knew nothing about it except that I would never own one. lol
😂
"Bigger means better"
I'd take my Opinel no. 9 over that any day.
@@jameshaulenbeek5931 an opinel vs a garberg ? I admit that the mora is way overpriced, but you can say a opinel is a better survival tool
Is the difference from aiming error due to distance from sighting point, like MOA?
Don't know what MOA is, but basically yeah, if you mean that the further you are from the target, the more any miss-aim is magnified. I don't think it's that big of a deal, but this is not what I would most want for accurate carving and such. That said, many traditional axes are quite long in the bit.
SkillCult minute of angle, which is roughly like saying a 1” group at 100yards becomes a wider group at longer ranges so 2” at 200 yards and so on. It’s how I would have explained it. It seemed like you were having difficulty explaining it in the video, but many are familiar with the concept relating to firearms so that would potentially be a useful analogy.
I shared your channel page with a few people and subscribed. You have excellent content.
TLDR: would buy again
i have that hatchet and also the carpenters axe
hatchet: head is a little heavy for length. fit and finish is good. not a shelf queen. workin tool.
carpenters axe is great. weight and length are a nice balance. fit and finish is good for a working tool. both have fantastic grain orientation. i may slim down the handles a little. may clean up the edge and cheek angles but overall both are great workin tools.
Nice set of axe design guidelines! I've just made a handle which is thin where the pinky hits at the back grip position. Just somehing I wanted to carry over from knife handle design. Is should give less fatigue. I also made the handle end curved like a machete handle. Also thinned out the axe grind and put a long convex grind on it. Now I'm just waiting for the oil to dry :) I started with a cheap Hultafors axe and just starting modding it. Hultafors is a competitor of Mora and their steel is just as good!
I have a very old Snow and Nealey hudson bay pattern axe, it has a 24" handle that is very thin and comfortable, I use it for everything from splitting small pieces of firewood to making feather sticks. it's really the only axe/hatchet that I own. the design seems to work for me as long as I keep it razor sharp ( like and cutting tool should be) it a dream, you couldn't pay me enough to trade to that monstrosity. thanks for the review
I think of the hudson's bay pattern as a real multipurpose axe. I eventually go rid of mine because the eye was too small to keep a good grip on the wood so it was always working loose and breaking handles. Mine was a collins. It really wan't the best chopper either, but it was good for small tasks and hewing/carving for an axe. A hudson's bay type with ears for added stability would be a much better axe. I haven't seen that anyone makes one though. Thanks for commenting.
SkillCult Definitely a general purpose axe, I've been pretty luck with this one, it still has the original handle that says snow and Nealey although I think my Father or Grandfather hung the handle a little deeper because it protrudes through the top of the eye and is flaired quite a bit, but definitely not a heavy duty axe for sure. do you think that the Swedish axes kind of resemble the hudsons bay axe but with ears? regardless I can't afford those so I've gotta keep this old girl going for a while. thanks for the response. thanks for doing these vids. I really have learned quite a bit. great work. thanks .
I don't recall seeing anything from sweden with that short of an eye, ears and the same wide sweeping bit that Hudson's Bays have, but I may just not have been paying attention. It seems like most of those eared axes have narrower bits. I'm not really that into the swedish hand forged stuff just because of the price. People think they will do work for you or something, but they are not really going to do any more work than a well tuned inexpensive axe. If it works for you, then it works. For processing a lot of firewood, I think you might find the hudson's bay somewhat lacking just design wise. That was sort of my impression of mine anyway, but that was a long time ago. They are usually pretty light too. Good for packing and camping/trapping chores I guess. I think they are an evolution from the wrapped eye axes and tomahawks as much as anything. I consider them kind of a link between those and later deep eyed poll designs, but the small eye may have been intentional to allow working up close to the head for carving and such since I think of them as an Indian trade and trapper axe. That's my take on them anyway.
Honest reviewers are the best reviews, well done.
Have you seen the Roselli All-around hatchet? I'd love to see you do a review of it.
+Alan Kaufmann I've seen it and I guess wouldn't mind taking a look at it, but I can't throw money around too much for review items and that is about the last one I would probably pick. It looks awful honestly, but who knows for sure till I could handle it. Red flags are the extreme front heaviness. The pole is tiny, so all the weight will always be pulling the blade downward. That is one reason axes gradually evolved away from wrap around eyes like tomahawks into stuff like the hudson bay pattern and eventually into more balanced designs. Another red flag is the extreme thickness of the blade right up to behind the eye. It looks like it has a scandi grind, but thickens up right away. That just looks terrible for chopping, but again, who knows. Maybe if the grind was maintained as flat bevels it would work. Really, it looks kind of gimicky. Looking around, I'm really not sure what I would even want to get to review next. Since no one uses the type of handle I like I guess I'm pretty much in favor of getting a used head and making a handle.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I ran across your channel this morning while researching Council Tool products. I also have the Husky Carpenters axe. I liked it so much that I purchased the hatchet thinking it would be just as good. Mine pretty much hangs in the garage. It will most likely go in the truck or be used as a wedge. I am late to the cordage party, but I have located some oak and other downed trees well away from a trail in steep country (northern Arizona) Probably too steep for a wheel barrow. I have a Duluth Paul Bunyon pack that I am considering using to pack out the wood. Any comments or suggestions. Once again, thank you. Casey from Flagstaff, AZ.
Dead oak in arizona sounds like a nightmare lol. Green wood is way easier to chop. I'd head into the high mountains and find some green softwood. I don't know much about the ecology there though. Even a quarter cord is a lot of wood to haul any distance on your back. I like that kind of work personally if you're up for it, maybe... Firewood would be best carried on a pack frame, or a makeshift packframe. Not familiar with the Duluth pack, but I love their pants! The husky forest axe is okay, but it needs a lot of work and it's pretty small for processing firewood. At about 30.00 the council boys axe is a good deal and you can afford to break it, file it, tweak it and experiment without worrying about it.
Hey, this is a great discussion of ergonomics, and the subtle differences that make a difference between a useful tool and a tool shaped object. You can apply this kind of analysis to many different tools, like saws, chisels, etc. I would love to hear your experience with other objects masquerading as tools.
Is the handle the biggest problem with this tool? Could you rehandle this axe head, maybe even turn it into an axe, and make something useful out of it.
+Lawman212 Yeah, like I said, a handle around maybe 18 to 20 inches would make a lot more sense as something like what is popular in bushcrafting as a trekking axe that can be used with two hands or one. Personally, I'd rather take a 25 inch handle for that kind of stuff if at all possible as it is much better and safer. As a hatchet, the eye is a deal killer for me. the size of the eye excludes the possibility of making the handle shaped how I would want up near the head.
+Lawman212 "objects masquerading as tools", lol!
+SkillCult Right, I did watch that bit about the eye being too large to taper effectively. an old timberframer once showed me how much deflection his axe handle could sustain. it was amazing, it could nearly bend four inches to one side. that demonstration was a real eye opener.
+Lawman212 flexible handles like that are a thing of the past at this point. I've watched a lot of reviews on certain modern axes and the references to thick handles are almost invariably positive. The only exception I can remember is Joe Robinett. Peter Vido has a good article on that referenceing Dudley Cook, who talks at length about it in the axe book. Everyone else that matters, Kephart, Kreps, Kochanski, Dudley Cook, all mention that handles should be thin enough.
I'd like your opinion on the looks of the German Stihl 1926 hatchet. I wonder if it would make a good chopper, or with those looks a Tomahawk? The European ones have a Mountain Ash handle just to be a bit different?
Well, it's awfully expensive. Other wise, I don't really like those super thick handles. I really couldn't say much else without seeing it. At the price I would imagine you could do a lot better for even less, but I am not really tuned into that higher end market. or really the rest of the market for that matter.
Thanks for the review. can you recommend a hatchet in place? one with a better handle?
Unfortunately not. Let me build a smithy and spend a few years developing my own and putting it into production. Hopefully not more than 6 years or so!
I'd be interested in that! Thanks I'll just see if I can't keep an eye out for one that fits the criteria you described. Any vids coming up on how to make your own axe handle? liking the vids you've got here man.
I'll no doubt do some videos following along making axe handles, but there are plenty of others out there already. Now the design of said handles is a whole other subjects.
Can't wait to hear you talk about it
Would you add 22-26 inch handle on Husqvarna hatchet? Thank you.
I think up to about 20 is more reasonable, maybe a little more. You certainly could add longer, but it doesn't make much sense to me. I don't really like handles between 16 and 26 that much personally, so I don't own anything in that size.
Nearly every hatchet I've owned has been re-profiled and re-hung on a haft designed and made by myself. The Husky hatchet is made by Hultafors, that can be seen in every way of it's build yet it costs far less which is interesting. I have three Husky carpenter's axes which I have heavily modified and hung on both shorter, and longer handles and find they hold and edge well yet are more resistant to easy sharpening.
I've been looking for something I can recommend that doesn't need a custom haft for new users to dive with. But, I'm struggling to think of any good user hatchet I've used with the stock handle. Can't think of any. It's usually the length for me. I want it 16 inches, at least 15.
I bought this handle for a 1.3 pound head, and I carved the handle alot thinner for choking up on it and gave it a better grip at the end, but yeah, that was one thick boye before that
I've recently discovered your channel and am enjoying your content on axes. i'm wondering if the oversize eye and handle might be a cultural European leftover from historically not having access to hickory and therefore having to use less shock-resistant woods. The guy on Survival Russia has a traditional Russian axe for which he made a birch handle and the eye on it looks huge.
I think all Euro eyes and most other traditions, are larger. That is the common theory, but I'm not convinced. Other handle woods are commonly recommended in old American books. Another possibility is that it happened as a process of fine tuning the axe to by more and more high performing, which was allowed by a cultural attitude of change and invention that characterized early America as separating themselves from the past. Another point that has been brought up is that there was a melting pot effect to some extent so many ideas to choose from. This v.s. a lot of very old traditionalist cultures using the same things. Many axes if you look at them from the perspective of evolution are basically partially evolved from wrap around eye axes, which are easy to make and conserve precious metal. Thinner eyes allow for more flexible handles that work up and down almost the whole handle and minimize differences is wood size at the eye. They also allow for a thinner axe head which is nicer to use for everything with the possible exception of splitting wood. There is a decreased chance of side impacts when felling and bucking large logs. Those are factors that should be looked at when theorizing about eye size. There is obviously a reason that it happened. The handle at the eye is more vulnerable if it is think and it's one of the most vulnerable spots. As much as I don't favor club like handles, larger eyed euro axes with thick handles are less delicate and less likely to suffer breakage at the eye area. The other common theory is that early Americans had a whole continent of trees to chop down and required improved tools. I think you could question or make arguments for and against any and all of those theories.
excellent and most informative review. Way too many people reviewing hatchets and axes that have never used one. thank you!! subscribed, and looking forward to more videos.
+Tom G Thanks Tom! There is still a whole lot I don't know about them too, but it's all a process if you don't grow up to it, and who does anymore.
Not gonna lie, I assumed I was gonna throw a thumbsdown, because I thought it was going to be a click-baity title, or just some bitter dude...I was wrong.
I disagree with just a couple of comments you made, but for the most part, seems spot-on.
Thanks for the lengthy video and honest feedback.
Thanks :)
Yea I would have to disagree on that, 1. The heavy head is good for pounding falling wedges and stakes. 2. Thick handle is more durable and curves are more ergonomic to me. 3. It's fairly affordable.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, I learned a lot about what to look for from watching this video and you saved me (and probably many others) from spending money on a less than satisfactory tool.
👍
I`m using a Bahco tomohawk axe and a splitting axe with a modern long plastic /fibre glass handle handle is straight .Looking for a hatchet to help with splitting so will keep your review in mind as I've been sold by the the branding of nordic axes but your review just makes good common sense .Thanks again.ps love the long vid.
+stephen m Honestly for doing kindling it's best just to get a cheap hatchet at the junk store or something like that. It doesn't need to be kept particularly sharp or look good, as long as the blade isn't super thin it should work pretty good. the crappier it is, the more you can use it for tasks that you wouldnt' use a good hatchet for, or beat on it once in a while. Your other tools can do the big stuff. It's nice to have a beater like that around, I just don't think we need a 40 dollar hand forged beater :)
+SkillCult Attic sales are in full season now in NW France so will take a look thanks for the reply.
Its not really bad if the head is out of alighnment is it? My small forest axe from gränsfors bruk is a bit out of alighnment but I cant really tell when using it.
Definitely not the end of the world, but it does matter. You can't follow a perfect progressive line no matter how accurate your aim is if the bit is crooked. I would be unhappy with any moderately to expensively priced axe that is not very close to aligned. No axe except the cheapest ones should leave any factory out of alignment in my ideal world, certainly not something the price of a gransfors. Mine is totally wacked out. Nothing you can to about it except heat it up and whack on it, but then you have to be competent to re-temper it, which I'm not. Keep in mind that it's every single whack for the life of the axe. No matter how far you refine your skills, there is still that crooked bit. I'm sure no competition chopper would ever accept any visual deviation in alignment. I would go for out of my way to avoid it, but it depends on the use and amount of use I suppose. Almost any of the significant writings on axes will also say that the bit should be in perfect alignment, often emphatically as I recall. I'm going to pick up the husqvarna 26 inch multipurpose axe to try out and I called all the husky dealers in the area so I can drive around and find the best one if I have to. alignment is the first thing I'll look at. If it doesn't meet that criteria, it's out of the running period, even if I don't buy one at all. Then I'll look at the handles and the bits.
p.s., if I like the husky or find a suitable replacement I'll definitely sell the gransfors. I do love the size weight ratio though for extreme versatility.
mine is the 25 inch forest axe though, so I believe longer than the one you have.
Okey, thanks for the reply!
I will say though, when I was at the gränsfors factory I saw that almost every axe that they sold in the shop was out of alighnment
I love this review. Entertaining as well as informative. I laughed several times. Thanks
Thanks. Apparently quite a few people didn't like it, though few of them have told me why. Easy to hit a button I guess. I'm doing a series on their 26" axe right now. Fortunately I like it a lot more than this one!
Seriously, my favorite Norse professor. Keep up the good fight!
ha, thanks!
Hello Steven,
Your review is pretty accurate in my opinion. I've bit the bullet, and gave it quiet a few field workouts. And the size of head and handle combination in the "axe", is not anything that agrees with the human hand. And for any one to make a comment about my hands, I've been a student of martial arts longer than most of my co-workers have been alive, I digress. Ya, the copy I have has a fairly straight eye, so a 21 - 22in. straighter handle may bring it up to a usable utility tool. So thanks for your review and God speed.
Semper Fi,
Kelly D.
interesting review, for sure, and I appreciate it. I bought one for thirty two bucks, so if i hate it than so be it. but ill be taking your comments into consideration when i use it.
I find this hilarious.. I had a CRKT tomahawk (the one with the little hammer head opposite the cutting edge) laying around, so I took some files to it and reprofiled the head sort of based on your "make it cut" video, I think.
I finished the cutting edge up with a 3 step tri-stone thing (coarse diamond, fine diamond, Arkansas stone + honing solution) and have been using it as a general purpose hatchet and camp hatchet (hammer side is an asset that I have grown to love).
I also sanded down to handle to get rid of the shiney coating, laminate of some sort, I guess? The bare wood feels much better (finished it with 600/800 grit wet/dry sandpaper (used dry) and then, when I remember, I rub my hands around kind of polishing motion for a bit.. in theory, I'm slowly imparting my oils from my hands, idk.
Point being, with minor effort on my part, I have a perfectly functional tool for like $40 (I got mine years ago pre-pandemic when prices were lower, just never messed with it)
OK, this is the best youtube gear review I've seen in a while. There are a few reviewers I trust to give unbiased opinions, but so much of it is people either shilling for free samples as content or to drive clicks or, among enthusiasts, just rationalizations of their latest purchases. This kind of honesty, with some real explanation that TEACHES the uninformed viewer (that'd be me) something about the opinion, is really valuable. Thanks--subscribed!
Thanks. I'm glad to see that someone understands what is going on with a lot of the "reviews" really being there to drive clicks to amazon. I think a lot of people aren't seeing that. I want people to buy less and do more and there is just a lot over obsession over gear in general Aside from the expense and wasted resources from overconsumption of gear, I just believe in skills over gear always. Obsessing and overly focusing on gear is distracting from the stuff that matters, which is getting out and actually doing stuff.
Thanks for the reply. So, here's my n00b question on which I'd be grateful for your much more informed opinion than mine. Forget "which hatchet should I buy?" What I'm trying to figure out is what tool I should use at home and camp for processing previously split or small logs down into kindling-sized pieces, limbing and perhaps occasional bucking if the full axe isn't with me. A well-balanced light hatchet if I can find one, or an 18-22" half-axe that could be used both one- and two-handed? Note--I'm 6'6" and reasonably strong, but inexperienced/unskilled with using axes, so safety is the primary concern. Is this even a problem that is best solved by one tool, or am I framing it wrong and better off with specialized tools? (Sorry for the long question--any reply much appreciated)
Thanks man.......You just saved me a heap of money and frustration. Great to finally see a man that tells it like it is. Your knowledge and wisdom is truly appreciated. Keep up the great work....you just won a subscriber and fan. Thanks for the comprehensive review and for not selling out. You just taught me more about axes and hatchets in 24 minutes than what most people 'learn' in years. Keep up the great work!!!
Thanks Jason! I just wish I could recommend something out of the box that isn't super expensive.
Could you recommend a good hatchet that doesn't cost the price of a gransfors?
Not yet. The other husky hatchet is nice, but it's about 70.00
What brand is the small axe with the darker handle?
If you mean the tiny swede, it doesn't have a name. I've seen a few on ebay, but only identified by the size, shape and made in sweden stamp.
@@SkillCult got one myself. Identical. Made in Sweden and 1 1/4 . Found out is gransfors bruks boy scouts hatchet from around 1960 . Have an incredible edge retention!
@@florincochintu8691 I love that thing. I found it in a thrift store in Oregon almost 30 years ago. It just is stammped made in sweden,I think on the underside near the eye. Very rare size.
@@SkillCult I love my one. Always in my camping bag !
Ive been buying axe and hatchet heads at a flea market for years. I need to learn to make proper handles and best ways to sharpen them. I actually found a hand forged head and paid 5.00 for it. That is one of my treasures yet to be worked into a functioning tool. Thanks
not many honest people that take this much time on a product!!! thanks for your time sir !!
You're welcome!
This is what is great about the internet: no matter what topic you think of, somewhere there is an expert who can tell you all about it. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
You are so right about this "hatchet". I'm just entering the world of transforming standard hiking to a more bushkraft type of outings, so I didn't really had any experience with carrying a hatchet. Upon receiving this i did thought it's a bit heavy. After the first use I immediately hated it. Way too heavy, way to short and thick handle and oh my god, the feedback trough the handle. Can't image having to use this for a bigger task. Thanks god it's cheap (bought it brand new for $30). But hey, at least I now know what to look for in a hatchet.
A lot of bushcraft guys like those short handled light axes, so you could think about trying a longer handle on it. Good luck. Thanks for weighing in.
what do you recommend then instead not to break the bank too much?
still can't recommend anything
Thank you for your review I have more respect for a honest review then of someone that doesn't really understand the tool. You are so right to call out these manufacturers of junk there is NO substitute for quality
Initially I thought you were insane. You know waaay too much about axes and hatchets. But you are not alone. There are quite a few of you guys out there. I mean when Im swinging an axe or hatchet for hours and Im deeply focused on my work, Im not thinking about the tiny details. Im focused on getting the job done. But there is a science behind the whole process and you do a thorough job explaining it. I appreciate it. I like your vids. Thank you for posting them.
What's the little axe that you said you would much rather have
No name yard sale axe.
Nice video thanks for the response
This axe is made by hults bruk which is equal quality with gransfors, if the size is an issue, try the Husqvarna camping axe which is the hults bruk almike. Maybe This hatchet will fit awesomely with some bigger guy with bigger hands.
I did pick that husqvarna almike up to try and to review, but haven't done anything with it yet.
Just found your channel and I'm very glad I did. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Unlike many, you clearly have knowledge forged by experience and lots of thought. Well done.
Thank you Brett.
I like mine,, goes well with the Esee5, beast on beast mode i guess.. :)
at 14:00.. your frustration with the handle is hilarious. Your loss of words summed it up pretty well.
lol!
Yeah I catch myself well I’m scrolling through my feed on UA-cam on your old shows just pushing play to give more views to your channel, keep up the great work.
Plan on doing a shout out to your show.
Thank you sir. I still need this channel to grow a lot if I'm going to make it. I appreciate your support :)
SkillCult i’m honored to help you.
4 years later. Have you seen the market change much? Any hatchets you’ve been impressed with yet? I think I watched this video 4 years ago when it came out 😉 Hope you are well Brother. Down in SoCal myself. I think you’ve said you’re in NorCal?
4:13, I have not used it, here is a 24 min review.
I didn't need to. the fact that you can't believe that probably indicates your lack of familiarity with the subject. There are a lot of skilled or professional folks out there that could judge the tools of their trade with little or even no use. I actually did hack at some stuff btw, as I said in the video if you were paying attention, or actually watched it. The point of the video was to discuss the things that would make people more savvy about hatchets and stop accepting this crap they are selling. Watch my axe content, I guarantee you'll learn a lot.
love your videos, man. love em.
+aprilliac thanks!