I am new to scuba diving and I am looking to get a torch. I always find your videos very interesting. So much useful information for me! Thanks so much!
Great Video. I started with a Seac R40 (adjustable beam) and I was not so happy. I dive 99% on lakes. The lumens were okay (2300) but the battery was draining so fast and the light quality was not what I wanted. I changed with an D860 Orcatorch (4000 lumen) and it is the BEST lamp I ever had. My diving school suggested this model and I will never change it. As a backup lamp I’m using a D520 (1000 lumen) Orcatorch that is more than enough as a backup for me. In warm places I dive only with my backup torch, but I have a torch with me for every dive, you never know :)
I use Orcatorch. First light was one and every light after have been one. Think they have a great balance between price and quality. I made the mistake of buying a very powerful light my first time. Diving mostly in water that is not very clear the backscatter from particles makes it unusable. I carry a light every dive. No backup on day dives but on night dives I have three with the third one being a small 400 lumen light. Since it is the second time I see it I thought I might say something. Just a small error and i love your videos. The text says heat sync but the name is heat sink. Don't remember what other video also said heat sync, might even be an old channel. Thank you for all the educational videos and I hope my nitpicking is not taken as criticism.
Every dive, I carry three lights. A can light (4k lumen Orchatorch d630, a 1k lumen DRIS backup light and a moderate, small additional backup light). While I've only had my primary fail once in over 500 dives, I have often had to hand off my 1K lumen backup to dive buddies (or even dive guides) during a dive when their only light failed.
I've got an Apeks Luna Mini as a back up, every dive carry torch. I also just got an Apeks Luna-X cable torch. I was torn between the Luna ADV and the Luna-X, the Luna ADV being 3600 lumen and the Luna-X being 3300 lumen (1300 lumen spot and 2000 lumen flood), but after seeing them side by side I decided to go for the Luna-X. The Luna-X has a much brighter hot spot than the ADV, which makes it much better for signalling. The flood mode does still have a little bit of a hot spot, but I wouldn't use a cable torch for videography anyway. Video lights should be fixed to the camera, and not independent lights. The flood I can use as a way to light up the surround when there aren't a lot of particulates in the water, and switch it off to reduce backscatter.
Most, if not all, Goodman handles will have a hole where you can attach a boltsnap to a shoulder D-Ring when not in use. Few come with a boltsnap but every diver I know who has a Goodman handle will attach their own boltsnap with some line from a reel or a spool.
I bought a Mini Q40Mk2. Rated for 150 Ft. Mounts to the Mask Strap. Which makes it a bit of a Pain when donning. The first one wouldn't turn on. Flashed then cut out. Switch problem. The company did replace it. I also have a Sherwood ST1000. Thing gets HOT when running.
Every dive I have at least one light. And normally that is a Dive Rite CX2, clipped to my left shoulder D-ring. I recently won an Orca Torch D710, and I have been incorporating that into my gear as it is small and powerful. For night dives I have a Light and Motion Sola 1200, which can be either a flood light or a spot depending on the setting chosen. All work very well and should suit me well until I start Cave Diving certification. Just an added note: Todays lights are MUCH better than anything we had in the past. I had an Ikelite dive light with the Xenon bulb and lantern battery. I don't think it was even rated at 200 Lumens. And I still have an old Underwater Kinetics Dive Light with a Xenon bulb that ran off 4 "C" cell batteries. Again, by today's standards not very bright, but were top lights in their day. LED Technology has been a God send to the lighting industry in general, but especially in the dive light industry.
In terms of lights I never got my head around spending a couple hundred on one, so I have always kept with the Chinese ones, being careful in the led choosing, and investing in good batteries. Yes the beam might not be so precise but around 30 to 50eur I have great lights, I have a flood light 15k lum, a spot 4 k lum and a back up 1k lum, all of them have survived the depths up to 50m and have never disappointed. In summ I like to be cheap in some items like lights and SMBs and invest in good quality items that are critical (regs, computer, BP and wing....)
#askmark. I recently saw a light from Deep Blue that has multiple colours. Can you please explain why I would use colours like green, blue or red vs the standard whites?
Red light can be useful because many marine species can't see red light and it won't disturb them as much as an intense white light. Handy for photographers to line-up shots without disturbing fish before the flash and for maintaining low-light vision. Some blue wavelengths, between 440-480 nanometers, can stimulate bioluminescence that can be seen with a filter. If it's not made for bioluminescence then it's for penetration. Blue light travels the furthest through water but, no further than white light. Green doesn't have much use other than penetration. Green light can penetrate fairly well through water and be distinguishable from blue or white. Other than communication, I can't see much use of green light underwater.
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I am new to scuba diving and I am looking to get a torch. I always find your videos very interesting. So much useful information for me!
Thanks so much!
Great Video. I started with a Seac R40 (adjustable beam) and I was not so happy. I dive 99% on lakes. The lumens were okay (2300) but the battery was draining so fast and the light quality was not what I wanted. I changed with an D860 Orcatorch (4000 lumen) and it is the BEST lamp I ever had.
My diving school suggested this model and I will never change it.
As a backup lamp I’m using a D520 (1000 lumen) Orcatorch that is more than enough as a backup for me.
In warm places I dive only with my backup torch, but I have a torch with me for every dive, you never know :)
I use Orcatorch. First light was one and every light after have been one. Think they have a great balance between price and quality. I made the mistake of buying a very powerful light my first time. Diving mostly in water that is not very clear the backscatter from particles makes it unusable.
I carry a light every dive. No backup on day dives but on night dives I have three with the third one being a small 400 lumen light.
Since it is the second time I see it I thought I might say something. Just a small error and i love your videos. The text says heat sync but the name is heat sink. Don't remember what other video also said heat sync, might even be an old channel. Thank you for all the educational videos and I hope my nitpicking is not taken as criticism.
Every dive, I carry three lights. A can light (4k lumen Orchatorch d630, a 1k lumen DRIS backup light and a moderate, small additional backup light). While I've only had my primary fail once in over 500 dives, I have often had to hand off my 1K lumen backup to dive buddies (or even dive guides) during a dive when their only light failed.
ive got a torch with a twist switch. "Wurkkos" and it has 4 different levels of brightness.
Marc, we seem to have similar head width. What is the best fitting mask that you have?
I use an Atomic Venom Frameless. That seals well against my top lip compared to other masks. I find TUSA masks fit me well also.
I've 3 torch all from mares. The biggest is a EOS 20lrz, the small one is a 5lr used as backup. The middle is the one I borrow to my students.
I've got an Apeks Luna Mini as a back up, every dive carry torch.
I also just got an Apeks Luna-X cable torch. I was torn between the Luna ADV and the Luna-X, the Luna ADV being 3600 lumen and the Luna-X being 3300 lumen (1300 lumen spot and 2000 lumen flood), but after seeing them side by side I decided to go for the Luna-X.
The Luna-X has a much brighter hot spot than the ADV, which makes it much better for signalling. The flood mode does still have a little bit of a hot spot, but I wouldn't use a cable torch for videography anyway. Video lights should be fixed to the camera, and not independent lights. The flood I can use as a way to light up the surround when there aren't a lot of particulates in the water, and switch it off to reduce backscatter.
#ASKMARK. Is there a preferred way of fixing a metal Goodman handle to be able to clip it off if you needed to remove it temporarily ?
Most, if not all, Goodman handles will have a hole where you can attach a boltsnap to a shoulder D-Ring when not in use. Few come with a boltsnap but every diver I know who has a Goodman handle will attach their own boltsnap with some line from a reel or a spool.
What about XTAR DS1 torch for sperfishing??? XPL LED 7° spot beam angle
I bought a Mini Q40Mk2. Rated for 150 Ft. Mounts to the Mask Strap. Which makes it a bit of a Pain when donning. The first one wouldn't turn on. Flashed then cut out. Switch problem. The company did replace it. I also have a Sherwood ST1000. Thing gets HOT when running.
Every dive I have at least one light. And normally that is a Dive Rite CX2, clipped to my left shoulder D-ring. I recently won an Orca Torch D710, and I have been incorporating that into my gear as it is small and powerful. For night dives I have a Light and Motion Sola 1200, which can be either a flood light or a spot depending on the setting chosen. All work very well and should suit me well until I start Cave Diving certification.
Just an added note: Todays lights are MUCH better than anything we had in the past. I had an Ikelite dive light with the Xenon bulb and lantern battery. I don't think it was even rated at 200 Lumens. And I still have an old Underwater Kinetics Dive Light with a Xenon bulb that ran off 4 "C" cell batteries. Again, by today's standards not very bright, but were top lights in their day. LED Technology has been a God send to the lighting industry in general, but especially in the dive light industry.
how do you enjoy the cx2? Im trying to decide between that at one shop and a deep blue light
In terms of lights I never got my head around spending a couple hundred on one, so I have always kept with the Chinese ones, being careful in the led choosing, and investing in good batteries. Yes the beam might not be so precise but around 30 to 50eur I have great lights, I have a flood light 15k lum, a spot 4 k lum and a back up 1k lum, all of them have survived the depths up to 50m and have never disappointed.
In summ I like to be cheap in some items like lights and SMBs and invest in good quality items that are critical (regs, computer, BP and wing....)
Great introduction video, thanks for the good job!
#askmark. I recently saw a light from Deep Blue that has multiple colours. Can you please explain why I would use colours like green, blue or red vs the standard whites?
Red light can be useful because many marine species can't see red light and it won't disturb them as much as an intense white light. Handy for photographers to line-up shots without disturbing fish before the flash and for maintaining low-light vision.
Some blue wavelengths, between 440-480 nanometers, can stimulate bioluminescence that can be seen with a filter. If it's not made for bioluminescence then it's for penetration. Blue light travels the furthest through water but, no further than white light.
Green doesn't have much use other than penetration. Green light can penetrate fairly well through water and be distinguishable from blue or white. Other than communication, I can't see much use of green light underwater.
@@ScubaDiverMagazine Thank you very much. This was a great help.
“Heat sync” was a pretty cute typo :)
very interesting video :)
More expensive is more better, end of story.