Thank you so much for this video! My 2010 Armada started acting weird as heck... wouldn't start, rough idle when it finally did, check engine light, and AutoZone said the code was the bank 1 camshaft sensor. Your video told me there were 3, so I changed them all out on your advice. Lastly, that little green clip on the right sensor is the worst designed clip on any car ever. I had to completely destroy mine too get it to release. I had to remove all the green plastic and the springs to use a pair of needle nose pliers to depress the clip and remove it. It'll be a piece of cake if I ever have to change it again. But my Armada has 356k miles on it, so not thinking I'll still have it in the future to need to do another sensor replacement in 12 more years. Car started right up and seems to be driving just fine after replacing all 3. Time will tell, but your video was great!
This is a very helpful vid - thank you. I have a 2007 Armada LE with a P0340 code and the service manual stated one Cam sensor at the back of the engine. I just checked after watching your vid and I have the same 3 as well. I only ordered one but looks like I'll have to order the other two as well to be safe. I believe earlier models had the one sensor in the back but unable to confirm what years.
There is still the Crank Shaft Position sensor (also abbreviated as CPS) in that location on the transmission. The trio of Cam Shaft Position sensors are those located up front on the block. Thankfully, they are the same part , but due to their installed locations on the drivetrain, they have different part number. Regardless of that fact, they are interchangeable and you can by the full set of 4 (or 5 if your systems calls for two crank sensors) without having to worry about part specificity. It also makes it easier to budget the purchase. The crank sensor on the transmission is in the same spot on the Titan, the Armada and the Infiniti QX56 from 2004 through 2015. Even though it is the exact same engine and transmission, Nissan Motors changed the written designation of the engine model numbers to help differentiate which platform they were to be installed in. This is why the 5.6L v8 is "documentation-wise technically" different between the three vehicles, despite the engines literally being absolutely no different from one platform to the next. The drive train is mechanically identical through all three models.
@@gallacherstyle Thanks for that additional info. Did you end up replacing the CSPs as well? My camshaft position sensor is due to be delivered today and I'm interested in who manufactures it as I have heard people having issues with non-OEM. If I can find the same make locally I'll get the two additional sensors but would like to avoid getting them from the dealer as I'm sure they'll charge an arm and leg for them. Luckily I have another vehicle to drive in the interim but would like to get this fixed. Unfortunately my scanner did not specify which "bank" had the faulty sensor - I'm hoping it is bank #1 and will swap that one first.
I actually did not replace it. I probably should start thinking about doing that at some point in the near future, but I like to adhere to the classic mantra, "If it's not broken, don't fix it." For 99.999995% of all my parts purchases, I go to O'Reilly Auto. I tend to stay with the Import Direct brand, as it comes with a lifetime replacement warranty on all their parts. That way, I can mitigate my costs the next time I have to perform any maintenance work on that system later on down the road. That, and O'Reilly Auto keeps awesome records of customer purchases in case you lose or misplace your receipts, just as long as you've registered and created a rewards account on their website (which is free). Along with that account, you also get a monthly discount coupon for between $5-$15 bucks off a month good on any product in the store and can be redeemed either in store or online.
@@gallacherstyle Thanks for the additional info. Unfortunately I don't have any O'Reilly's near me (only AutoZone and Advanced Auto which aren't great). In any case, I got the single sensor and replaced the Bank 1 and it's fixed! THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO AND INFORMATION!!! I overnighted the other two (which was still cheaper than the local dealer!) so I'll install those this weekend. Other than that, I'm with you - if it ain't broke.... :)
Yes, all 3 sensors are the same part and part number. Yes again, it is recommended to replace all 3 at the same time. For future reference, the camshaft sensors are also the same part number for the crankshaft sensor.
I went to my local O'Reilly Auto and had them clear the code. That was the quick method. If you have an OBD 1/2 diagnostic tool that can clear codes, you can clear them on your own. The long method is to simply drive the truck for a few days and the code will cycle out and clear by itself simply through the ignition cycle tied to the ECU. That normally takes about a dozen or more start/run/shut off cycles. If I can't make it to my local auto store, I just focus on using that vehicle for ALL my families errands. Hope that helps.
This should also apply to the 2006 model, but I would advise you to double check the actual locations of all three sensors with a service manual or at your local Auto Zone or O'Reilly Auto store.
Are any of these sensors also called the intake timing sensor? I’m throwing a p1145 intake timing s circuit bank 2. Trying to find out where this sensor is and what side of motor when I’m standing in front looking toward engine bay.
Sorry to say, but no. If you need a little extra help in finding that specific sensor, you can click the links I've provided below in my responses to Gary Gagen, Abelsgaming - TV and Noel ibarra. The links will take you to either the Nissan parts page where you can search for either the specific part by name or part number, or by the component section that item is a part of, like drive train, or electrical and lighting, etc. You can also go to O'Reilly Auto's website and they can search both OEM and aftermarket catalogs using the same filters as the Nissan site. I hope this helps.
Thank you for the comment and questions. Yeah, I initially thought there would only be two, but Nissan likes to complicate things. I bought my trio of sensors from my preferred O'Reilly Auto for $72.00 and change out the door. With the code I got, the one that specifies the camshaft is P0340. If you're getting the P0335, I would recommend you check your crankshaft position sensor. These two sensors always get confused with each other, and many people think they are one and the same sensor. Good news is they actually are the same part, but they monitor different components are are found in totally different locations on the drivetrain. The crank shaft sensor is found on the bottom driver side of the transmission bell. Here is a diagram showing where to look. parts.nissanusa.com/a/Nissan_2015_Armada-Platinum-56L-V8-FLEX-AT-4WD/_51513_8128514/DISTRIBUTOR-amp-IGNITION-TIMING-SENSOR/TA60_US_221A_1.html Here is the link to the part at O'Reilly Auto: www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/delphi-automotive/lighting---electrical/sensors/engine-sensors/camshaft-position-sensor/8b1d49640074/delphi-automotive-camshaft-position-sensor/dlp0/ss10817/v/a/130957/automotive-suv-2015-nissan-armada?q=camshaft+position+sensor&pos=4
I'm not sure what you're asking? The wiring for the camshaft sensors is static (doesn't move from where the factory ran it) under the hood. If you're trying to rewire your harnesses and ECU, I would STRONGLY advise you to adhere to your reference manual and wiring diagram. If you have difficulty understanding the diagram, or are not sure how to read and interpret it, seek the help of someone you trust who has experience with this. If you're in a situation where you don't have someone who can help and have to do it on your own, take as many pictures as possible of everything you see, both before you start any work at all, and as you go along. This will help provide you a function reference and guide when it comes time to put everything back where it belongs and fire up the engine. With regard to the engines and drive trains in todays vehicles, as well as with how technologically complicated they have become, trying to wire your engine on your own is next to impossible for first-timers, and an absolute pain in the a5$ for experts. This is not something I would advise you attempt without a seasoned and trained mechanic to help to guide you through the process. Lastly, the pathways and mounting locations are different, and just for every car/truck/SUV, but also for every trim option each vehicle can be equipped with. This means that there are literally 100's of thousands of different wiring setups. I hope this helps.
There are only 3 sensors that monitor the camshaft assembly. The fourth sensor monitors the crankshaft. Check out my response to Gary Gagan for the links to the schematic and the parts listing from O'Reilly Auto. Hope this helps.
Would these cause a no start in cold weather sometimes. One time at -5 it fires right up and another time at 11 degrees wouldn't start at all until it warms up a bit.
Short answer, yes it's possible. Long answer, that symptom could be indicative of so many other issues that it would make it very difficult to say with any certainty that it's just one thing or another. In most cases, if you're in weather that drops that cold overnight or just after sun up, it'll first impact the charge of your battery, then your alternator, then your starter. It could then proceed to the other components interlaced with your ignition system, such as the camshaft position sensors, distributor and distributor coils, spark plugs and wires, electronic fuel management system, etc. The first thing I would do is have your battery tested at the closest auto parts store, which is something they usually do for free. While you're there I would also have them check your alternator and starter (if they can get to the starter without having to crawl around on the ground or disassemble anything). When I lived in Green River Wyoming, the winters there usually dropped and held steady around -15° to -30° without including wind chill factors. At those temperatures your plastic door handles will break at the same time your battery fails. My own personal rule of thumb is if the temperature drops cold enough to freeze water, you need to invest into some form of a block heater to counteract the temperatures that occur overnight during the winter months. Hopefully this helps.
@@gallacherstyle I did add those oil pan heaters which only worked once and died. Now I have a battery warmer. I plan to get the pan warmer off and actually get the block heater that goes into the plug. Was not wanting to have to drain the coolant.
I've also used the oil dipstick heater, it's absolutely worthless. The only way to go is the in-line coolant heater. Just remember to install it on the lower (bottom) radiator hose. You'll also need to remove about 1.5-2 inches of hose from the straight section in the middle to accommodate the heater core. I bought the heater I have in my Trailblazer and our old Suburban from O"Reilly Auto. Now that we live in Texas, our need for the block heaters has been minimized drastically. Having said that, here is the link to a block heater that will fit the Nissan line up. I would actually keep the battery warmer and incorporate the coolant block heater to cover all the bases. Avoid the magnetic style and dipstick style as they won't provide the best results. The coolant hose style is the best option due to the fact that as it heats the coolant, it generates a flow/current and forces the coolant to circulate through the block which in turn prevents the rest of the fluids from gelling or freezing up. Hope this helps. www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/zerostart-5348/accessories-16449/winter-accessories-16523/engine-heater-11348/9ffc93076976/zerostart-400-watt-engine-block-heater/3100007/4871254/2015/nissan/armada?q=block+heater&pos=5
69800 and change, if I remember correctly. I wrote it down in my service log (yes, I actually keep one of those, along with all the receipts for all my vehicles). I'll have to go check it to verify the exact mileage, but I am 100% certain my Armada hadn't flipped past 69k yet. Hope that helps.
@@gallacherstyle seems young to need those sensors although it does seem to be a Nissan thing. I have a 13 Titan that just crossed 100k. No issues but I am thinking about buying the cam and crank sensors and just keeping them with me in the truck. Are you the original owner? Any other issues?
If I were the original owner, I would have traded this Armada in for a 2001-2012 Suburban 2500. I'm actually the third owner. This Armada was originally bought new from a California dealership and found its way north to Seattle. It had been repo'd twice before we picked it up, by the time we got it, it had over 65000 miles on it and it was less than 5 years old. The ECU history indicated it had not been maintained. And, no, I did not get a good deal on it. The dealership was extremely shady and my wife initiated the purchase. I came into to the process during signing, after they had driven off with my 2001 Suburban. How I came into ownership of this SUV is a whole other subject and I'll spare you that bucket of mud.
The cam shaft position sensors will typically cause a rough start and even more rough idle, severe loss of engine power when under load or accelerating, as well as intermittently stalling or surging during idle and start up. Admittedly, though, they can be the cause of a "crank but no start" symptom. That being said, "a crank no start" symptom is also fairly general and non specific and can be indicative of faulty or failing components within any of the following systems: fuel supply and management, air intake, ignition and engine electrical/timing systems. In that instance, you really need to get the codes puled as soon as possible. If you have a P0340, start with the Cam Shaft Position sensors and their related wiring. If after you've tested and identified and replaced the components the issue is still unresolved, then expand from there to start testing the rest of the associated Powertrain Control Module (PCM) which also includes the crank shaft position sensor. Hope this helps.
Use the Nissan parts links in my older replies. Once on the Nissan Parts site, you can start searching for the solenoid and use the part number to find out at your preferred auto parts store. My preferred retailer is O'Reilly's. I hope this helps.
The Temp Sensor is screwed into the water pump/thermostat assembly. Look for the wired connector. The following link should help. parts.nissanusa.com/a/Nissan_2015_Armada-Platinum-56L-V8-FLEX-AT-4WDAWD/_51496_10701836/WATER-PUMP--COOLING-FAN--THERMOSTAT/TA60_US_210A.html
Ohhh, that's totally different. I literally just replaced that very part 4 days ago. Here is what you need: HVAC Heater Hose. You can find this at AutoZone/Advance Auto/Napa/O'Reilly Auto. I purchased mine at O'Reilly's. The only thing you need to reuse from the bad control valve are the two hose clamps. It'll take you about 1-2 hours if you minimize disassembly of other parts that are in the way. I wanted to take a video, but my camera is dead and I was using my phones flashlight to see under the hood. Here is the link to the part description from Nissan Parts, dealer cost is $170.00 +tax: parts.nissanusa.com/p/Nissan_2015_Armada-Platinum-56L-V8-FLEX-AT-4WDAWD/Hvac-Heater-Hose/90137028/92400-ZW10A.html Here is the O'Reilly link, their cost is $125 +tax: www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/air-conditioning---heating/heater-control-valve/bec7acaa888e/v/a/130957/automotive-suv-2015-nissan-armada Special note: Before you begin the replacement, start the engine and run it for at least 30-45 minutes, preferably under load (i.e. run a few errands then head back home). While the vehicle is in operation, set all three thermostats (both fronts if you have dual zones and the rear) to max heat temps (90 degrees), then turn all HVAC systems off before turning off the engine. It's installed with 1 (one) nut (10 mm). You'll need a deep socket for removal and replacement. You'll also need a heat gun, (huge time saver) for removal and re-assembly of the hoses to the fittings under the hood. It mounts on the passenger side, right under the seam of the hood and windshield, on the top edge of the firewall. It works by passing heated antifreeze/coolant through the valve and into the heater core which is then used to heat the air in the ducts just after the blower fan. I would recommend disconnecting the short hose first, as it will allow the anti-freeze in the lines to drain back into the engine and minimize spillage. you'll only loose about 1/2 cup of fluid. I didn't even have drips on my driveway. You'll need a 3-piece set of 10-11 inch needle nose pliers (one straight, one 45 degree, one 90 degree) to work the hose clamps off the fittings. Use the heat gun to warm the new hoses to allow for a much more relaxed reinstallation onto the fittings. Keep in mind you or someone else may need to service this part later on down the road, so try to place the hose clamp barbs where you can clamp easier. I'll post an abbreviated walk through as soon as I get it recorded. Please let me know if this was helpful.
Yes, The drive train layout is the same between the Titan and Armada models from 2005-2015, respectively. Nissan did make a few minor changes to to location and purpose of some of the various sensors, such as the camshaft position sensor being moved to the rear of the block in 2010-ish. Between the Titan and Armada, underneath the hood at least, they should be as close to identical as you can be. Feel free to read through the previous comments. You can click the links I've provided below in my responses to Gary Gagen, Abelsgaming - TV and Noel Ibarra to help you isolate and confirm the exact position of the sensors on your model. Hope this helps.
Just on a brief search, two parts were found that the system identified as MAP Sensors. I am honestly unsure which one is either correct or applicable, but here is what I found: Option one, 60% certain it's what you're looking for: www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-list/2005-nissan-armada/engine_electrical/engine_control_vacuum_piping.html Option two, a strong contender, but less sure of the accuracy of the search results: www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-volume-air-flow~22680-7s00a.html Of course, these results are for the Nissan Armada, but the Infinity QX56 is the same under the skin, just presented better. As far as the Infiniti QX56 specific results go, I got this: parts.infinitiusa.com/p/INFINITI_2005_QX56-LE-56L-V8-AT-4WD/Mass-Air-Flow-Sensor-Meter-Air-Flow/89447890/22680-7S000.html And yes, you can pick it up at O'Reilly Auto for between $105 and $300 (rounded up after tax). I hope this helps.
Thanks for the acknowledgement and I'm glad you found my video useful. I have a number of other videos I'm currently editing, and will upload them as soon as my turbulent life settles down a bit. Thanks again!
Noel Ibarra, no there is not. I've not had any issues similar to a crankshaft position sensor like what was on my Jeep Cherokee, and to be honest I've not been able to identify whether or not there is a crankshaft position sensor in the Nissan. The CPS sensors that are found on the drivetrain of the Nissan vehicles are camshaft position sensors which need to be located as close to or directly on the engine block itself.
@@gallacherstyle ok because I changed three of them and I sprayed starter fluid and still won’t start starter is good and fuses are good I plugged in code reader and nothing pops up
Noel, if you're still having issues getting the engine to crank, and there are currently no codes, I would actually start looking at the code history first to see what codes were kicked before you did the CPS sensor replacement. I would also expand my diagnostics to begin looking at the fuel delivery and management system (i.e. the fuel pump, spark plugs and fuel injectors). You may also want to have your alternator tested. We both know all these components are interrelated and interdependent when it comes to your engine running as it should. Lastly, I am man enough to admit that if the problem is over my head, I need to admit I can't do it on my own and go ask help or refer to someone with more experience and knowledge and learn from them so that I can fix it the next time it happens. Good luck dialing in the problem. Please keep me updated on the solution and how you got it fixed. Your "road block" has me curious now.
did you check the crankshaft position sensor? That one uses the same part number, but monitors a different component of the drivetrain. The crankshaft sensor is the one located under the truck, on the bottom of the transmission bell, driver side. That might be what you are looking for. Please refer to this diagram for clarification: parts.nissanusa.com/a/Nissan_2015_Armada-Platinum-56L-V8-FLEX-AT-4WD/_51513_8128514/DISTRIBUTOR-amp-IGNITION-TIMING-SENSOR/TA60_US_221A_1.html
I've used Engine Restore on every oil change I do, never had any issue from it's use. It's entirely possible the restore loosened up carbon build-up and that in turn fouled/damaged the sensors. Either that or the sensors were covered by the build-up and had not been working for a while prior to the oil change. The restore cleared them and they were finally able to start reporting the failure codes to the ECU like they should have been doing before the oil change. Lot of possible causes for that one. Hope you got it sorted and fixed.
Txctical_ Mxnny is correct. It is the same engine and drive train layout. As far as the part numbers, yes, those are the same as well. The same sensor fits into any of the three ports on the front of the engine block. Hope that helps.
No, unfortunately. The only real symptoms would be one or the other of a sluggish or delayed response when accelerating or a rough idle. Sometimes both symptoms are present. The only real way to confirm the sensor(s) are bad is through the fault codes that are generated by the engine's control unit (or ECU). If you're hearing a knocking sound, that would be something else entirely and I would strongly encourage you to take it to your trusted local mechanic and have them check it out. An engine knock could very likely be caused by something major and the longer you drive with the knock, the more likely you are to have a major failure resulting in a huge repair bill. I hope this helps.
I got the P0340, P0341 and P0342 codes. The P0011 is your intake valve timing, indicates it's off or the solenoid has failed. P0021 is the second code relating directly to your intake valve timing and could also point to the oil control valves. Hope this helps in the future.
Lol!! I might be able to help you fix it, but we would need to touch base outside of UA-cam. Send me an email through my UA-cam acct and we can go from there.
@@gallacherstyle thanks bro I didn't it myself I have a 2012 titan and my camshaft was located in the front of the engine I did it myself and saved 80$ for labor
Thank you so much for this video! My 2010 Armada started acting weird as heck... wouldn't start, rough idle when it finally did, check engine light, and AutoZone said the code was the bank 1 camshaft sensor. Your video told me there were 3, so I changed them all out on your advice. Lastly, that little green clip on the right sensor is the worst designed clip on any car ever. I had to completely destroy mine too get it to release. I had to remove all the green plastic and the springs to use a pair of needle nose pliers to depress the clip and remove it. It'll be a piece of cake if I ever have to change it again. But my Armada has 356k miles on it, so not thinking I'll still have it in the future to need to do another sensor replacement in 12 more years. Car started right up and seems to be driving just fine after replacing all 3. Time will tell, but your video was great!
Thanks. I'm glad it helped.
This is a very helpful vid - thank you. I have a 2007 Armada LE with a P0340 code and the service manual stated one Cam sensor at the back of the engine. I just checked after watching your vid and I have the same 3 as well. I only ordered one but looks like I'll have to order the other two as well to be safe.
I believe earlier models had the one sensor in the back but unable to confirm what years.
There is still the Crank Shaft Position sensor (also abbreviated as CPS) in that location on the transmission. The trio of Cam Shaft Position sensors are those located up front on the block. Thankfully, they are the same part , but due to their installed locations on the drivetrain, they have different part number. Regardless of that fact, they are interchangeable and you can by the full set of 4 (or 5 if your systems calls for two crank sensors) without having to worry about part specificity. It also makes it easier to budget the purchase.
The crank sensor on the transmission is in the same spot on the Titan, the Armada and the Infiniti QX56 from 2004 through 2015. Even though it is the exact same engine and transmission, Nissan Motors changed the written designation of the engine model numbers to help differentiate which platform they were to be installed in. This is why the 5.6L v8 is "documentation-wise technically" different between the three vehicles, despite the engines literally being absolutely no different from one platform to the next. The drive train is mechanically identical through all three models.
@@gallacherstyle Thanks for that additional info. Did you end up replacing the CSPs as well? My camshaft position sensor is due to be delivered today and I'm interested in who manufactures it as I have heard people having issues with non-OEM. If I can find the same make locally I'll get the two additional sensors but would like to avoid getting them from the dealer as I'm sure they'll charge an arm and leg for them. Luckily I have another vehicle to drive in the interim but would like to get this fixed. Unfortunately my scanner did not specify which "bank" had the faulty sensor - I'm hoping it is bank #1 and will swap that one first.
I actually did not replace it. I probably should start thinking about doing that at some point in the near future, but I like to adhere to the classic mantra, "If it's not broken, don't fix it." For 99.999995% of all my parts purchases, I go to O'Reilly Auto. I tend to stay with the Import Direct brand, as it comes with a lifetime replacement warranty on all their parts. That way, I can mitigate my costs the next time I have to perform any maintenance work on that system later on down the road.
That, and O'Reilly Auto keeps awesome records of customer purchases in case you lose or misplace your receipts, just as long as you've registered and created a rewards account on their website (which is free). Along with that account, you also get a monthly discount coupon for between $5-$15 bucks off a month good on any product in the store and can be redeemed either in store or online.
@@gallacherstyle Thanks for the additional info. Unfortunately I don't have any O'Reilly's near me (only AutoZone and Advanced Auto which aren't great). In any case, I got the single sensor and replaced the Bank 1 and it's fixed! THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO AND INFORMATION!!! I overnighted the other two (which was still cheaper than the local dealer!) so I'll install those this weekend.
Other than that, I'm with you - if it ain't broke.... :)
Is it the same part number for all 3 camshaft sensors? I have the same 2015 Armada Platinum Reserve.
Yes it is.
@@gallacherstyle thank you. 23731-4M50D
Are all three the same sensors ? Do I replace all 3 at the same time? Thanks for the vid ! 👍🏾
Yes, all 3 sensors are the same part and part number. Yes again, it is recommended to replace all 3 at the same time. For future reference, the camshaft sensors are also the same part number for the crankshaft sensor.
Thanks for this... After replacing, how did you reset?
I went to my local O'Reilly Auto and had them clear the code. That was the quick method. If you have an OBD 1/2 diagnostic tool that can clear codes, you can clear them on your own. The long method is to simply drive the truck for a few days and the code will cycle out and clear by itself simply through the ignition cycle tied to the ECU. That normally takes about a dozen or more start/run/shut off cycles. If I can't make it to my local auto store, I just focus on using that vehicle for ALL my families errands. Hope that helps.
Has the 5.6L motor changed over the years or is this going to be valid for my 2006 model as well?
This should also apply to the 2006 model, but I would advise you to double check the actual locations of all three sensors with a service manual or at your local Auto Zone or O'Reilly Auto store.
Thank you for your video.
You bet. I hope this helped.
Are any of these sensors also called the intake timing sensor? I’m throwing a p1145 intake timing s circuit bank 2. Trying to find out where this sensor is and what side of motor when I’m standing in front looking toward engine bay.
Sorry to say, but no. If you need a little extra help in finding that specific sensor, you can click the links I've provided below in my responses to Gary Gagen, Abelsgaming - TV and Noel ibarra. The links will take you to either the Nissan parts page where you can search for either the specific part by name or part number, or by the component section that item is a part of, like drive train, or electrical and lighting, etc. You can also go to O'Reilly Auto's website and they can search both OEM and aftermarket catalogs using the same filters as the Nissan site. I hope this helps.
Thank you!
Did you have it scanned? And was the code PO335? Also didn’t realize there was 3 of these sensors. What was the cost of each sensor?
Thank you for the comment and questions. Yeah, I initially thought there would only be two, but Nissan likes to complicate things. I bought my trio of sensors from my preferred O'Reilly Auto for $72.00 and change out the door.
With the code I got, the one that specifies the camshaft is P0340. If you're getting the P0335, I would recommend you check your crankshaft position sensor. These two sensors always get confused with each other, and many people think they are one and the same sensor. Good news is they actually are the same part, but they monitor different components are are found in totally different locations on the drivetrain.
The crank shaft sensor is found on the bottom driver side of the transmission bell. Here is a diagram showing where to look.
parts.nissanusa.com/a/Nissan_2015_Armada-Platinum-56L-V8-FLEX-AT-4WD/_51513_8128514/DISTRIBUTOR-amp-IGNITION-TIMING-SENSOR/TA60_US_221A_1.html
Here is the link to the part at O'Reilly Auto: www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/delphi-automotive/lighting---electrical/sensors/engine-sensors/camshaft-position-sensor/8b1d49640074/delphi-automotive-camshaft-position-sensor/dlp0/ss10817/v/a/130957/automotive-suv-2015-nissan-armada?q=camshaft+position+sensor&pos=4
How can I set the Nissan armeda mouth wire
I'm not sure what you're asking? The wiring for the camshaft sensors is static (doesn't move from where the factory ran it) under the hood. If you're trying to rewire your harnesses and ECU, I would STRONGLY advise you to adhere to your reference manual and wiring diagram. If you have difficulty understanding the diagram, or are not sure how to read and interpret it, seek the help of someone you trust who has experience with this. If you're in a situation where you don't have someone who can help and have to do it on your own, take as many pictures as possible of everything you see, both before you start any work at all, and as you go along. This will help provide you a function reference and guide when it comes time to put everything back where it belongs and fire up the engine.
With regard to the engines and drive trains in todays vehicles, as well as with how technologically complicated they have become, trying to wire your engine on your own is next to impossible for first-timers, and an absolute pain in the a5$ for experts. This is not something I would advise you attempt without a seasoned and trained mechanic to help to guide you through the process. Lastly, the pathways and mounting locations are different, and just for every car/truck/SUV, but also for every trim option each vehicle can be equipped with. This means that there are literally 100's of thousands of different wiring setups. I hope this helps.
Hello. Where is number 4 camshaft position located.. thanks.
There are only 3 sensors that monitor the camshaft assembly. The fourth sensor monitors the crankshaft. Check out my response to Gary Gagan for the links to the schematic and the parts listing from O'Reilly Auto. Hope this helps.
Would these cause a no start in cold weather sometimes.
One time at -5 it fires right up and another time at 11 degrees wouldn't start at all until it warms up a bit.
Short answer, yes it's possible. Long answer, that symptom could be indicative of so many other issues that it would make it very difficult to say with any certainty that it's just one thing or another. In most cases, if you're in weather that drops that cold overnight or just after sun up, it'll first impact the charge of your battery, then your alternator, then your starter. It could then proceed to the other components interlaced with your ignition system, such as the camshaft position sensors, distributor and distributor coils, spark plugs and wires, electronic fuel management system, etc. The first thing I would do is have your battery tested at the closest auto parts store, which is something they usually do for free. While you're there I would also have them check your alternator and starter (if they can get to the starter without having to crawl around on the ground or disassemble anything). When I lived in Green River Wyoming, the winters there usually dropped and held steady around -15° to -30° without including wind chill factors. At those temperatures your plastic door handles will break at the same time your battery fails. My own personal rule of thumb is if the temperature drops cold enough to freeze water, you need to invest into some form of a block heater to counteract the temperatures that occur overnight during the winter months. Hopefully this helps.
@@gallacherstyle I did add those oil pan heaters which only worked once and died. Now I have a battery warmer.
I plan to get the pan warmer off and actually get the block heater that goes into the plug. Was not wanting to have to drain the coolant.
I've also used the oil dipstick heater, it's absolutely worthless. The only way to go is the in-line coolant heater. Just remember to install it on the lower (bottom) radiator hose. You'll also need to remove about 1.5-2 inches of hose from the straight section in the middle to accommodate the heater core. I bought the heater I have in my Trailblazer and our old Suburban from O"Reilly Auto. Now that we live in Texas, our need for the block heaters has been minimized drastically.
Having said that, here is the link to a block heater that will fit the Nissan line up. I would actually keep the battery warmer and incorporate the coolant block heater to cover all the bases. Avoid the magnetic style and dipstick style as they won't provide the best results. The coolant hose style is the best option due to the fact that as it heats the coolant, it generates a flow/current and forces the coolant to circulate through the block which in turn prevents the rest of the fluids from gelling or freezing up. Hope this helps.
www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/zerostart-5348/accessories-16449/winter-accessories-16523/engine-heater-11348/9ffc93076976/zerostart-400-watt-engine-block-heater/3100007/4871254/2015/nissan/armada?q=block+heater&pos=5
How many miles were on your Armada when you had the codes for those sensors pop up?
69800 and change, if I remember correctly. I wrote it down in my service log (yes, I actually keep one of those, along with all the receipts for all my vehicles). I'll have to go check it to verify the exact mileage, but I am 100% certain my Armada hadn't flipped past 69k yet. Hope that helps.
@@gallacherstyle seems young to need those sensors although it does seem to be a Nissan thing. I have a 13 Titan that just crossed 100k. No issues but I am thinking about buying the cam and crank sensors and just keeping them with me in the truck.
Are you the original owner? Any other issues?
If I were the original owner, I would have traded this Armada in for a 2001-2012 Suburban 2500. I'm actually the third owner. This Armada was originally bought new from a California dealership and found its way north to Seattle. It had been repo'd twice before we picked it up, by the time we got it, it had over 65000 miles on it and it was less than 5 years old. The ECU history indicated it had not been maintained. And, no, I did not get a good deal on it. The dealership was extremely shady and my wife initiated the purchase. I came into to the process during signing, after they had driven off with my 2001 Suburban. How I came into ownership of this SUV is a whole other subject and I'll spare you that bucket of mud.
nice video you help my bro i'have the 2005 armada se
and i loved
runs perfect tanks to big bear lake CA
Thanks. I'm glad it helped you out.
My Nissan Armada just cranks and won’t start is it because of the crank shaft sensors?
The cam shaft position sensors will typically cause a rough start and even more rough idle, severe loss of engine power when under load or accelerating, as well as intermittently stalling or surging during idle and start up. Admittedly, though, they can be the cause of a "crank but no start" symptom.
That being said, "a crank no start" symptom is also fairly general and non specific and can be indicative of faulty or failing components within any of the following systems: fuel supply and management, air intake, ignition and engine electrical/timing systems. In that instance, you really need to get the codes puled as soon as possible.
If you have a P0340, start with the Cam Shaft Position sensors and their related wiring. If after you've tested and identified and replaced the components the issue is still unresolved, then expand from there to start testing the rest of the associated Powertrain Control Module (PCM) which also includes the crank shaft position sensor. Hope this helps.
Are they the same part number to all 3 sensors
Yes, they are. That's one of the things that makes it easy.
Good Job Thank you
Thanks for the support. Glad it helped.
Where is the vvt solenoid located.? I need to replace it it's giving me a code P0011 bank 1
Use the Nissan parts links in my older replies. Once on the Nissan Parts site, you can start searching for the solenoid and use the part number to find out at your preferred auto parts store. My preferred retailer is O'Reilly's. I hope this helps.
Do you know where the temperature sensor located on the same vehicle?
The Temp Sensor is screwed into the water pump/thermostat assembly. Look for the wired connector. The following link should help.
parts.nissanusa.com/a/Nissan_2015_Armada-Platinum-56L-V8-FLEX-AT-4WDAWD/_51496_10701836/WATER-PUMP--COOLING-FAN--THERMOSTAT/TA60_US_210A.html
Thanks very much
I have no heat in my vehicle and I have seen videos that says the heater valve l trying but still not heating any idea what can be?
Ohhh, that's totally different.
I literally just replaced that very part 4 days ago. Here is what you need: HVAC Heater Hose. You can find this at AutoZone/Advance Auto/Napa/O'Reilly Auto. I purchased mine at O'Reilly's. The only thing you need to reuse from the bad control valve are the two hose clamps. It'll take you about 1-2 hours if you minimize disassembly of other parts that are in the way. I wanted to take a video, but my camera is dead and I was using my phones flashlight to see under the hood.
Here is the link to the part description from Nissan Parts, dealer cost is $170.00 +tax:
parts.nissanusa.com/p/Nissan_2015_Armada-Platinum-56L-V8-FLEX-AT-4WDAWD/Hvac-Heater-Hose/90137028/92400-ZW10A.html
Here is the O'Reilly link, their cost is $125 +tax:
www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/air-conditioning---heating/heater-control-valve/bec7acaa888e/v/a/130957/automotive-suv-2015-nissan-armada
Special note: Before you begin the replacement, start the engine and run it for at least 30-45 minutes, preferably under load (i.e. run a few errands then head back home). While the vehicle is in operation, set all three thermostats (both fronts if you have dual zones and the rear) to max heat temps (90 degrees), then turn all HVAC systems off before turning off the engine.
It's installed with 1 (one) nut (10 mm). You'll need a deep socket for removal and replacement. You'll also need a heat gun, (huge time saver) for removal and re-assembly of the hoses to the fittings under the hood. It mounts on the passenger side, right under the seam of the hood and windshield, on the top edge of the firewall. It works by passing heated antifreeze/coolant through the valve and into the heater core which is then used to heat the air in the ducts just after the blower fan. I would recommend disconnecting the short hose first, as it will allow the anti-freeze in the lines to drain back into the engine and minimize spillage. you'll only loose about 1/2 cup of fluid. I didn't even have drips on my driveway. You'll need a 3-piece set of 10-11 inch needle nose pliers (one straight, one 45 degree, one 90 degree) to work the hose clamps off the fittings. Use the heat gun to warm the new hoses to allow for a much more relaxed reinstallation onto the fittings. Keep in mind you or someone else may need to service this part later on down the road, so try to place the hose clamp barbs where you can clamp easier. I'll post an abbreviated walk through as soon as I get it recorded. Please let me know if this was helpful.
@@gallacherstyle thanks very much I’ll try to do that
Hi would this apply to 2010 Nissan Titan ??
Thank you
Yes, The drive train layout is the same between the Titan and Armada models from 2005-2015, respectively. Nissan did make a few minor changes to to location and purpose of some of the various sensors, such as the camshaft position sensor being moved to the rear of the block in 2010-ish. Between the Titan and Armada, underneath the hood at least, they should be as close to identical as you can be. Feel free to read through the previous comments. You can click the links I've provided below in my responses to Gary Gagen, Abelsgaming - TV and Noel Ibarra to help you isolate and confirm the exact position of the sensors on your model. Hope this helps.
whete is location MAP sensor in this motor, i cant find it in infiniti qx56 2005
Just on a brief search, two parts were found that the system identified as MAP Sensors. I am honestly unsure which one is either correct or applicable, but here is what I found:
Option one, 60% certain it's what you're looking for:
www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-list/2005-nissan-armada/engine_electrical/engine_control_vacuum_piping.html
Option two, a strong contender, but less sure of the accuracy of the search results:
www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-volume-air-flow~22680-7s00a.html
Of course, these results are for the Nissan Armada, but the Infinity QX56 is the same under the skin, just presented better. As far as the Infiniti QX56 specific results go, I got this:
parts.infinitiusa.com/p/INFINITI_2005_QX56-LE-56L-V8-AT-4WD/Mass-Air-Flow-Sensor-Meter-Air-Flow/89447890/22680-7S000.html
And yes, you can pick it up at O'Reilly Auto for between $105 and $300 (rounded up after tax). I hope this helps.
Most of cars MAP sensor located bitween throttle body& air filter line,
Very helpful
Thanks for the acknowledgement and I'm glad you found my video useful. I have a number of other videos I'm currently editing, and will upload them as soon as my turbulent life settles down a bit. Thanks again!
Is there one underneath the truck by tree transmission?
Noel Ibarra, no there is not. I've not had any issues similar to a crankshaft position sensor like what was on my Jeep Cherokee, and to be honest I've not been able to identify whether or not there is a crankshaft position sensor in the Nissan. The CPS sensors that are found on the drivetrain of the Nissan vehicles are camshaft position sensors which need to be located as close to or directly on the engine block itself.
@@gallacherstyle ok because I changed three of them and I sprayed starter fluid and still won’t start starter is good and fuses are good I plugged in code reader and nothing pops up
Noel, if you're still having issues getting the engine to crank, and there are currently no codes, I would actually start looking at the code history first to see what codes were kicked before you did the CPS sensor replacement. I would also expand my diagnostics to begin looking at the fuel delivery and management system (i.e. the fuel pump, spark plugs and fuel injectors). You may also want to have your alternator tested. We both know all these components are interrelated and interdependent when it comes to your engine running as it should. Lastly, I am man enough to admit that if the problem is over my head, I need to admit I can't do it on my own and go ask help or refer to someone with more experience and knowledge and learn from them so that I can fix it the next time it happens. Good luck dialing in the problem. Please keep me updated on the solution and how you got it fixed. Your "road block" has me curious now.
did you check the crankshaft position sensor? That one uses the same part number, but monitors a different component of the drivetrain. The crankshaft sensor is the one located under the truck, on the bottom of the transmission bell, driver side. That might be what you are looking for.
Please refer to this diagram for clarification:
parts.nissanusa.com/a/Nissan_2015_Armada-Platinum-56L-V8-FLEX-AT-4WD/_51513_8128514/DISTRIBUTOR-amp-IGNITION-TIMING-SENSOR/TA60_US_221A_1.html
Put Restore engine conditioner in my Armada and now same codes for the crank sensor are coming up plus it’s runs rough now.
I've used Engine Restore on every oil change I do, never had any issue from it's use. It's entirely possible the restore loosened up carbon build-up and that in turn fouled/damaged the sensors. Either that or the sensors were covered by the build-up and had not been working for a while prior to the oil change. The restore cleared them and they were finally able to start reporting the failure codes to the ECU like they should have been doing before the oil change. Lot of possible causes for that one. Hope you got it sorted and fixed.
This the motor the same for. 2012 qx56?
Also are all the sensors the same part number for the different banks
Yes it’s technically the same truck
Txctical_ Mxnny is correct. It is the same engine and drive train layout. As far as the part numbers, yes, those are the same as well. The same sensor fits into any of the three ports on the front of the engine block. Hope that helps.
It is NOT the same motor. The 2012 QX56 has a VK56VD. The Armada had the VK56DE from 04-15.
Would the sound like its knockin.. when these sensor go bad...
No, unfortunately. The only real symptoms would be one or the other of a sluggish or delayed response when accelerating or a rough idle. Sometimes both symptoms are present. The only real way to confirm the sensor(s) are bad is through the fault codes that are generated by the engine's control unit (or ECU). If you're hearing a knocking sound, that would be something else entirely and I would strongly encourage you to take it to your trusted local mechanic and have them check it out. An engine knock could very likely be caused by something major and the longer you drive with the knock, the more likely you are to have a major failure resulting in a huge repair bill. I hope this helps.
J'aime ce métier
Merci. Je suis content que cela vous ait plu et j'espère que cela vous a aidé.
what code was it my is p0011.p0021
I got the P0340, P0341 and P0342 codes. The P0011 is your intake valve timing, indicates it's off or the solenoid has failed. P0021 is the second code relating directly to your intake valve timing and could also point to the oil control valves. Hope this helps in the future.
Can I bring my trick to ur house so u can fix it?
Lol!! I might be able to help you fix it, but we would need to touch base outside of UA-cam. Send me an email through my UA-cam acct and we can go from there.
@@gallacherstyle thanks bro I didn't it myself I have a 2012 titan and my camshaft was located in the front of the engine I did it myself and saved 80$ for labor
Glad to hear you got it figured out.
I have a2004