I do appreciate that you are trying to share your support and help to those who are having trouble to get those bolts,nuts,pins and arms .Actually those bolts ,nuts,pins and arms come out easily. I had replaced many of them if you know the right way of doing it and step by step without hammer them to much. First thing first,proper hand tools and lubricant.Soak them with a good lubricant before attempt to remove them. The two bottom arm you will to unbolt the shock absorber and undo the arm's bolt from the chassis and undo arm's nut and use a fork to pry it off from the wheel hub and lift it up. Beautiful with the chisel, the hub is made of alloy it came snap at anytime specially if you use MAPP torch, little tap at a time.Precaution should be observe and patience should maintain. Good luck. Thank you for your time and effort for helping.
You don't need to take the hub off to do the lower arm, there is 'just' enough room to squeeze it out and in with the sway bar link removed and the bottom fork bolt removed.
Very good video. Quality shoot and well lit. Glad you prevailed in getting that original pinch bolt out. I say original since these factory pinch bolts have an "hourglass" shape along the shaft of the bolt. A powdery corrosion by-product material, aluminum oxide I'm guessing, accumulates over time. This material along with the shape of the bolt shank combine to wedge that pinch bolt in there tight-tight. I see comments where someone makes the claim these bolts are removable with ease using this technique or that technique. True. But the claim is valid based only the severity of the corrosion on that particular car. It's gonna be worse in the snow and salt belt regions in North America, and less of a problem in areas where corrosion is not such an issue. Anyway, I have discovered that a much-improved replacement pinch bolt is available online (ECS, FCP and others). One with a straight shank. That one is a dream to get out. I replaced the hourglass bolts a few years ago with the straight shank variety and have had absolutely no problem extracting that bolt since. When replacing the pinch bolt opt for the straight shank bolt. Accept no other. Oh and lube the crap out of it. Haha. All the best, Hayabusafalcon.... State of Michigan, the heart of the road salt belt.
Good to see someone else running into problems when DIY ing their own car. "We're not alone". Some countries might have less suspension corrosion issues like the horror shows we see in America because of the snow and salt(?) on the roads. But this (upper control arm bolt) seems a common problem: metal and aluminium (I'm in Australia) corrosion. Now that I have worked on a couple of Audis, I find myself both / simultaneously praising and cursing the Audi product - some things work great (motors & handling) other things are irritating (plastics, too many sensors, somethings are so German). But then, find me a car that doesn't have a "niggle" or two that has you wondering why did they do this. DIYing!
That top pinch bolt l feel is the main issue, the rest seems to be common with other similar jobs, feel l will need to get involved with this at some stage but this tutorial has been saved in preparation for that. Thanks for sharing the job 👍👍
(Audi A4 2002 1.8t) I have a problem I guess with suspension. I installed str t kit lowering springs, and Koni shocks with all new control arms. After the installation I am experiencing strong knocks when turning to the left or right. The thing is we mistakenly installed one of the springs upside down, I wonder if that makes any difference.
Very common when you have a adjustable sleeve sitting on the shock. They with spin independently from eachother causing a noise almost bang. Especially slow speed or stopped
For the pin bolt holding the two upper arm many people struggle with. There is a very easy technique to remove it if you know how. It's not difficult. 😅😅😂😂
Depends where you live. When you are in the rust belt things are alittle more ticket when aluminum and steel are together for 15+ years but I definitely don't believe it will be as hard next time.
Agree with what you saying but if any burr incurred by using grips comes into contact with seal you already have big problems with that much travel on the damper bottoming out.
Why is everyone having so many problems with the pinch bolt? I removed mine with no problem. Is it because I live in Southern California? I've heard a lot of stuff about rust. The problem is I thought these were aluminum components. The air impact or in my case my Milwaukee 1/2 inch high torque snatched it right out.
It is the way the metal from the upper arms reacts with the metal in the aluminum knuckle and the pinch bolt. Winters and salt distroy that connection.
@@MyHomeGarage oh ok. Something I don't have to worry about living in San Bernardino California. I'm moving to Redondo soon. The air is slightly salty there. I'll just put red grease on everything to prevent rusting.
Brother by the time these components need replacing its been 15 years of winters. German cars aren't even the bad ones. Japanese American they use alot of metal and aluminum lol together it's a rusty mess.
@@MyHomeGarage I need to change them frequently because of the way I drive 😉. I'll break stuff before I need to have it changed. I'm the mechanic so I figure that once I get a lifetime warranty, all the work will cost is a beer and a sandwich. All of my tools say Milwaukee so and all of my sockets are from harbor freight. I'm set. I'm tearing up every single suspension 😂. Great video btw.
Thata bad eh. Good for you keep your parts supplier happy. I got another A4 B8 that I'm bring back to life. I'll drop a video soon. I may get rid of my wagon it's kinda small and not clean enough body wise and interior to really keep and mint out.
Thanks for sharing great tips, but I also found the "AutoDoc" videos useful too, you can actually take the bottom Ball Joint out without removing the Drive shaft, heres a link, probably best to crack Ball Joint before hand too, while the assembly is still pretty solid. 👍 ua-cam.com/video/FrTYxp9aKF0/v-deo.html
![How to change a front shock strut on AUDI A4 (B7) [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ruVIZgDf7Fk/mqdefault.jpg)
I do appreciate that you are trying to share your support and help to those who are having trouble to get those bolts,nuts,pins and arms .Actually those bolts ,nuts,pins and arms come out easily. I had replaced many of them if you know the right way of doing it and step by step without hammer them to much. First thing first,proper hand tools and lubricant.Soak them with a good lubricant before attempt to remove them. The two bottom arm you will to unbolt the shock absorber and undo the arm's bolt from the chassis and undo arm's nut and use a fork to pry it off from the wheel hub and lift it up. Beautiful with the chisel, the hub is made of alloy it came snap at anytime specially if you use MAPP torch, little tap at a time.Precaution should be observe and patience should maintain. Good luck. Thank you for your time and effort for helping.
You don't need to take the hub off to do the lower arm, there is 'just' enough room to squeeze it out and in with the sway bar link removed and the bottom fork bolt removed.
Very good video. Quality shoot and well lit. Glad you prevailed in getting that original pinch bolt out. I say original since these factory pinch bolts have an "hourglass" shape along the shaft of the bolt.
A powdery corrosion by-product material, aluminum oxide I'm guessing, accumulates over time. This material along with the shape of the bolt shank combine to wedge that pinch bolt in there tight-tight.
I see comments where someone makes the claim these bolts are removable with ease using this technique or that technique. True. But the claim is valid based only the severity of the corrosion on that particular car. It's gonna be worse in the snow and salt belt regions in North America, and less of a problem in areas where corrosion is not such an issue.
Anyway, I have discovered that a much-improved replacement pinch bolt is available online (ECS, FCP and others). One with a straight shank. That one is a dream to get out. I replaced the hourglass bolts a few years ago with the straight shank variety and have had absolutely no problem extracting that bolt since. When replacing the pinch bolt opt for the straight shank bolt. Accept no other. Oh and lube the crap out of it. Haha. All the best, Hayabusafalcon....
State of Michigan, the heart of the road salt belt.
People didn’t build the cars thinking of the corrosion and the oxidized bolts
You can remove the ball joint without removing the driveshaft you just have to tilt the cone and lever down the upright to relief the tension
Thank you thank you thank you. I’ve just done the same thing with my pinch bolt and I’m glad I can save the job by just removing the pinch bolt. 👍👍👍🍺
Good to see someone else running into problems when DIY ing their own car. "We're not alone". Some countries might have less suspension corrosion issues like the horror shows we see in America because of the snow and salt(?) on the roads. But this (upper control arm bolt) seems a common problem: metal and aluminium (I'm in Australia) corrosion.
Now that I have worked on a couple of Audis, I find myself both / simultaneously praising and cursing the Audi product - some things work great (motors & handling) other things are irritating (plastics, too many sensors, somethings are so German).
But then, find me a car that doesn't have a "niggle" or two that has you wondering why did they do this. DIYing!
Thank you for the torque specs
Your welcome
Thanks for uploading this. I'm assuming you are a professional mechanic.
No problem, and You would be correct.
Excellent tutorial video it helps a lot👍
Your welcome. Enjoy subscribe.
That top pinch bolt l feel is the main issue, the rest seems to be common with other similar jobs, feel l will need to get involved with this at some stage but this tutorial has been saved in preparation for that. Thanks for sharing the job 👍👍
Goodluck. Patience is key
Yep IV done 1 side on the ground no ramps🤕bit of a chew,but thts the joys ov motoring as they say 🙄👌
Good for you. Audi motoring is a interesting ride.. Honda motoring is like carefree living lol
(Audi A4 2002 1.8t) I have a problem I guess with suspension. I installed str t kit lowering springs, and Koni shocks with all new control arms. After the installation I am experiencing strong knocks when turning to the left or right. The thing is we mistakenly installed one of the springs upside down, I wonder if that makes any difference.
Very common when you have a adjustable sleeve sitting on the shock. They with spin independently from eachother causing a noise almost bang. Especially slow speed or stopped
@@MyHomeGarage thank-you so much!
Ah yes the infamous Audi pinch bolt, that is indeed how to do it.
Thanks
For the pin bolt holding the two upper arm many people struggle with. There is a very easy technique to remove it if you know how. It's not difficult. 😅😅😂😂
Depends where you live. When you are in the rust belt things are alittle more ticket when aluminum and steel are together for 15+ years but I definitely don't believe it will be as hard next time.
Just changes shock+springs when i put it back how can i line up bottom and upper mounts before i tighten it?
Put a jack under the arm and raise and lower as needed
Hi. Biting strut damper by vice is not a problem to damage the oil seal?
Sometimes you gotta work with what you got. Use cardboard wrapped before clamping or buy the appropriate wrench or socket. I didn't posses it
Agree with what you saying but if any burr incurred by using grips comes into contact with seal you already have big problems with that much travel on the damper bottoming out.
Why didn't you go the opposite direction? You could have used the air hammer to knock it out.I just did my 98 A6 front suspension.
I did alot off camera opposite side before I concluded this as the solution for me. Air hammers did nothing in my situation.
Just did one side the other day and the air hammer from the threaded end didn't work
🙂👍
The thing is that famous bolt was installed from the wrong direction, is common?
I donno to be honest. Did I install it incorrectly? Ops.
@@MyHomeGarage I mean the first bolt that you remove with an air-hammer, it was installed from the opposite side.
Had to the head sheered right off. Lol found that method I used worked pretty good compared to how the other side came out lol.
Why is everyone having so many problems with the pinch bolt? I removed mine with no problem. Is it because I live in Southern California? I've heard a lot of stuff about rust. The problem is I thought these were aluminum components. The air impact or in my case my Milwaukee 1/2 inch high torque snatched it right out.
It is the way the metal from the upper arms reacts with the metal in the aluminum knuckle and the pinch bolt. Winters and salt distroy that connection.
@@MyHomeGarage oh ok. Something I don't have to worry about living in San Bernardino California. I'm moving to Redondo soon. The air is slightly salty there. I'll just put red grease on everything to prevent rusting.
Brother by the time these components need replacing its been 15 years of winters. German cars aren't even the bad ones. Japanese American they use alot of metal and aluminum lol together it's a rusty mess.
@@MyHomeGarage I need to change them frequently because of the way I drive 😉. I'll break stuff before I need to have it changed. I'm the mechanic so I figure that once I get a lifetime warranty, all the work will cost is a beer and a sandwich. All of my tools say Milwaukee so and all of my sockets are from harbor freight. I'm set. I'm tearing up every single suspension 😂. Great video btw.
Thata bad eh. Good for you keep your parts supplier happy. I got another A4 B8 that I'm bring back to life. I'll drop a video soon. I may get rid of my wagon it's kinda small and not clean enough body wise and interior to really keep and mint out.
Hi my audi a4 b7 the rear drivers is lower then passenger side is that normal thanks
Broken spring and or the spring rubber is collapsed. Many reasons especially if it is a lot.
@@MyHomeGarage thanks I can get 2 finger in one side and 3 finger in the other side will get it checked thanks
How do I know which springs to get because when I put reg in it says there's 2 springs sports or non sports
@@abdulbeany1894 do you have a s line model? That uses sport springs.
@@MyHomeGarage ye mines an s line model
and if i dont have air hammer
Get to wacking or don't even bother attempting.
I’ve been at it for a hour I’m tired
No doubt it's a pain. Goodluck
Thanks for sharing great tips, but I also found the "AutoDoc" videos useful too, you can actually take the bottom Ball Joint out without removing the Drive shaft, heres a link, probably best to crack Ball Joint before hand too, while the assembly is still pretty solid. 👍
ua-cam.com/video/FrTYxp9aKF0/v-deo.html
For short this is not easy for a DIY service 😅
I would not recommend anyone with a mechanical background attempt this.lol
OR you could have released the tension by disconnecting the sway bar. Take an audi class!
I must have missed your tutorial when I was looking online. Send us a link. Audi master tech video series.