Ender 3 is really good printer for the price. I use mine for 4 years now I think and it still works really good. You just need to make few adjustments when is out of the box. You shouldn't throw it away, you should have give it to someone who knows how stuff works.
Yep, when I saw him toss it in the trash can, I immediately came to the comments. I almost just straight turned off the video. The Ender 3 is a very good 3d printer, if you just put 2 minutes of effort into it.
Agreed, seeing that was a freaking shame. Mine is working perfectly for me. Took a bit of debugging in the beginning, but it really is a very consistent printer.
bro my v1 worked perfect and i set it up the day it came. its still prints, and i have never put together anythingand i also have zero experince with the computer aspect and its so easy
Hey, if you haven't done so yet, get a larger diameter nozzle (eg. 0.8mm) and crank up your layer height to 0.4mm so you can prototype quicker. You could probably cut your print time in half, all while getting thicker, more sturdy walls.
Yea but if you are buying a printer for a specific purpose. And they are willing to drop $1300 for one print. You would think someone would take print area into consideration...
Two tips to help you increase the durability of your next shoe print: 1 - If your going to print the shoe on it's side like you did with this version, increase the wall amount by at least 5, this will give the bottom of the shoe a thicker wall, trapping the air inside so you wont have any problems involving the shoe deflating. 2 - Play around with Infill patterns! Some of them can be pretty shitty when it comes to sustaining heavy weights so it's all about finding that perfect pattern as well as the percentage.
yeah, people dont understand that you really get what you pay for with 3D printers and some people are ok with putting in some effort to upgrade, but others want the perfect thing right out of the box. And yeah, total waste if he actually threw it away, at least give it to a highschool or library, or just stick it on craigslist for someone.
Yup, unless a major component was dead in the water I find it incredibly hard to believe it "just wouldn't print". Maybe with zero adjustments, sure. Everyone who does the tiniest bit of research would see that if you want a 3D printer working perfectly out of the box like an inkjet...you're spending much more money.
@@kurtownsj00 also depending on the slicer he can get tons of stringing simply because it's a feature lacking profile. but I've spent many many hours tinkering away with customizing with making my own enclosure and stuff, he only had 2 weeks by the looks of it and zero interest in nerding around with learning new programs.
I've seen a lot of great comments about suggestions for a v2, so I figured I'd throw in my 2 cents as well-- - You can probably bump up the layer height from 0.2mm to 0.3mm which will give a MASSIVE reduction in the print time. - You might also want to try a 0.6mm nozzle, or increasing the extrusion width parameters with the 0.4mm nozzle. - You may want to try some of the 3D infill patterns in PrusaSlicer, such as Gyroid or Cubic for better foot support. - (The terminology got a bit confusing, as "support" generally refers to the external material that is removed after the object is printing and "infill" refers to the grid-like structure inside the object.) I am definitely a bit envious that your feet are small enough for a shoe to fit on a Prusa MK3S. I don't think I could print a shoe that fits me on mine. Looking forward to a part 2 (hopefully)!
This. 0.6mm nozzle is how I got my ender 3 to print TPU. Adding more holes like crocs would reduce print time too. Higher triangular infill in the lower sole would likely improve comfort.
My dude, this needs to be a series. There were a lot of learning discoveries for you and I'd love to see you make improvements and eventually make a decent shoe.
I am subscribing , i hope to see more, i will wait 3 months, after that im gone kkkkkk, it would be awesome to see a series learning and improving a 3d printed shoe until you make a great one, also if you decide to do a series, work with someone to decide on the design first kkkkkkk, here some ideas, 1) divide the chapters in finding the best format of each part of the shoe, sole, upper body, left, right, ankle, and it does not need to be 100% 3d printed, you could attach some things to it, laces or a mechanism to tie the shoe, also the sole of the shoe, honeycomb style with a X design inside should give you confort and durability
If you ever intend to do a V2, I would HIGHLY recommend Gyroid infill, as the pressure will be dispersed evenly across the entire sole and much more uniform simply because of the 3D structuring of Gyroid infill. That and a couple more walls to allow for better sole rigidity. Edit: also probably a more conventional color for testing just so you don't draw attention to test shoes, but that's fully up to you
This kind of content is honestly what makes you stand out among others in the same niche. I didn't expect much going into this video after seeing the shorts, but boy was I wrong. I didn't know that something so simple, a 3d printed slide/shoe at that, can create a nice little narrative. Appreciate what you do, just like how you've re-crafted the $20 series to create more interest while listening to the feedback of your audience. Keep on keeping on beyond the norm!
Repent and follow Jesus my friend! Repenting doesn't mean confessing your sins to others, but to stop doing them altogether. Belief in Messiah alone is not enough to get you into heaven - Matthew 7:21-23, John 3:3, John 3:36 (ESV is the best translation for John 3:36). Contemplate how the Roman empire fulfilled the role of the beast from the sea in Revelation 13. Revelation 17 confirms that it is in fact Rome. From this we can conclude that A) Jesus is the Son of God and can predict the future or make it happen, B) The world leaders/nations/governments etc have been conspiring together for the last 3000+ years to accomplish the religion of the Israelites C) History as we know it is fake. You don't really need to speculate though because you can start a relationship with God and have proof. Call on the name of Jesus and pray for Him to intervene in your life. - Revelation 3:20 Revelation has been unfolding since Jesus died. The Popes have claimed to be equal to God and set themselves in Jesus' place (antichrist(s)). Vatican City (Which is its own nation BTW) have risen up to fulfill the role of the false prophet Regarding the man of lawlessness or antichrist, 2 Thessalonians 2:4 says “Who opposes and exalts himself above all that is called God, or that is worshipped; so that he as God sits in the temple of God, showing himself that he is God.” The restrainer that the Apostle Paul was referring to in 2 Thessalonians was the Western Roman Emperor, who held back the Popes from taking power. Once the last Western Roman Emperor was removed from power in 476 AD, the Pope was given civil and ecclesiastic authority over Rome; healing the deadly head wound of the beast in Revelation 13, as they took the Emperors title of Pontifex Maximus, leader of the church and state. “We may according to the fullness of our power, dispose of the law and dispense above the law. Those whom the Pope of Rome doth separate, it is not a man that separates them but God. For the Pope holdeth place on earth, not simply of a man but of the true God.” (Source: “Decretals of Gregory IX,” Book 1, chapter 3.) Pope Pius V blasphemed, “The Pope and God are the same, so he has all power in Heaven and earth.” (Source: Pope Pius V, quoted in Barclay, Cities Petrus Bertanous Chapter XXVII: 218.) Pope Leo XIII declared, “We hold upon this earth the place of God Almighty.” (Source: Pope Leo XIII Encyclical Letter, June 20, 1894) The antichrist sea beast of Revelation points to the office of the papacy, the Popes of Rome, who controlled the Roman beast for 1,260 years, from 538-1798 AD. Daniel 7:25 says “And he shall speak great words against the most High, and shall wear out the saints of the most High, and think to change times and laws: and they shall be given into his hand until a time and times and the dividing of time.” The Popes of Rome spoke against Elohim and proclaimed to be God. They reigned for 1,260 years, from 538-1798 AD. during which they caused tens of millions of saints to be killed. The Pope’s title is Vicar of Christ, which in Latin is ‘Vicarius Filii Dei’, and equates numerically to the number 666
yea he stands out as a guy who didnt have the mental capacity or know how to get the ender 3 working properly so he trhows it in the garbage instead of maybe donating it to a viewer. stands out very much yes.
This definitely needs to be a series! This was super interesting to watch and I'd love to see you iterate on the design to make some actual good, comfy 3d printed shoes
Going overboard on the supports really hurts your print-time. Also go for more infill, because that was not much at all. I'd also try to bump up the printspeed, with flexible filament you can try pushing 40mm/s, especially with a direct drive machine like you have. All those things combined will result in a more comfortable shoe in like half the print time
@@lennertlaevaert8711 I'd love to model myself a shoe and print it but I'm size 13 so there's no way. Unless of course I get a belt printer.... for 1300 or something like that..
@@clayman0430 My cheap- Anet A8 clone has a bigger heated bed than the real A8, and would probably fit. :P If I were home I'd have exact dimensions and be able to say for sure!
I think printing the soles and printing the uppers separately and then gluing them together would probably be quicker, allow for some adjustment also give you the ability to add arch support. It is a very cool project however, 3D printers are really almost becoming a staple of a lot of households it seems, I’m going to have to buy one at some point soon
That first printer you showed that was "garbage" is a creality ender v2, i have one of those, really good printer but you have to know how to set it up correctly and you have to re-check everything before each print
I used to 3d print Crocs and heels for my X-wives doll(1/12th size) company. Always wanted to do life size models and this motivates me to try. Thanks for the video!
In case you haven't done this already: Well, use more infill. That will make the sole stiffer and not so like a water balloon ;-) ... You can adjust that in the slicer setting. A slicer is that program that cuts your design in horizontal slices for printing (e.g. Prusaslicer for your prusa printer). And there you can adjust the 3D structure of the infill pattern and the density (10% or 20% for example). But the infill pattern is orinted relative to the build plate and not relative to the shoe orientation in space ;-) So just pick an infill pattern that varies along the height and you would get some compromise for dampening in many directions and some of them will help you, you should not fall through your shoe to the hard ground ;-) And you could print it with 3 or more outer walls to make it more robust against puncturing. The standard are 2. But it takes time. And it gets stiffer, but that could let it break instead of bend, maybe there where you bend your shoe while walking... But it would take at least a day longer when you had 3 days for one shoe - and you have so much volume to fill in the sole... And make the heel wider when that was a pain. Maybe make the shoe around your heel higher. I think, it was too low on your heel, that could hurt. And expand whatever was too small too on your shoe. That are things that you can change "easily". It's more difficult to find a material like "the same, but more robust against wear"... You would have to start from scratch - more or less - with the search for materials. Make a collab with 3D filament makers and let these experts do their job, they should know what to pick ;-) Easy for you ;-) There are flexible filaments that are more flexible - and others that are stiffer. Good filaments have something like a number for the flexibility to compare them. But that might not do much with wear and tear and just make the overall shoe more stiff? It could break instead of bending... It's a trade-off as so often in engineering... Make a test sole piece, where you can see how flexible and how stiff it is against standing on it and against bending - with different materials and different infill patterns (orientation! The same orientation on the build plate as the final shoe, don't print it flat on the printer or you would get different results later with your shoe print when that is not flat on your printer). And you can test the material against wear and tear against rough concrete walls or even sand paper... (I sound almost like an expert, but no, I just do 3D printing as a hobby and I watched your experiences with your new shoes ;-)
Interesting concept I think if you would have done maybe 40-50% infill with either the cubic or gyroid pattern they would have been alot more comfy in the soles, the heel problem could be easily fixed by widening the back of the shoe by maybe 10mm?
I'm glad I found this video. I've been designing my own pair of shoes for months now, trying out different methods of making a sole from scratch including 3D printing them out of a flexible material. So far, I've found that coating the sole in something like latex, silicone, or rubber will give it more strength and durability while maintaining flexibility.
I dream of a future where we literally just pick up some raw materials and go ham designing as a then much more advanced and versatile 3D printer gives us exactly what we ask from it. Imagine it's not only a 3D printer, but also a scanner. Got a sick pair of shoes you wanna make some adjustments to? You can deconstruct and adjust it digitally, like a template to work from. I'm envious if I just barely miss these developments... I truly wonder what it'd be like if we have a tiny scale industry at the tip of our fingers, maybe some amazing material recycling machines, just picture it, digital 3D design would become a standard in education if it was really that accessible and applicable.
@@mikeycrackson That's a good point, also making wide variants of shoes that don't have those etc. Once you've got your foot exactly figured out and you keep those blueprints, you could make basically any shoe very comfy.
Repent and follow Jesus my friend! Repenting doesn't mean confessing your sins to others, but to stop doing them altogether. Belief in Messiah alone is not enough to get you into heaven - Matthew 7:21-23, John 3:3, John 3:36 (ESV is the best translation for John 3:36). Contemplate how the Roman empire fulfilled the role of the beast from the sea in Revelation 13. Revelation 17 confirms that it is in fact Rome. From this we can conclude that A) Jesus is the Son of God and can predict the future or make it happen, B) The world leaders/nations/governments etc have been conspiring together for the last 3000+ years to accomplish the religion of the Israelites C) History as we know it is fake. You don't really need to speculate though because you can start a relationship with God and have proof. Call on the name of Jesus and pray for Him to intervene in your life. - Revelation 3:20 Revelation has been unfolding since Jesus died. The Popes have claimed to be equal to God and set themselves in Jesus' place (antichrist(s)). Vatican City (Which is its own nation BTW) have risen up to fulfill the role of the false prophet Regarding the man of lawlessness or antichrist, 2 Thessalonians 2:4 says “Who opposes and exalts himself above all that is called God, or that is worshipped; so that he as God sits in the temple of God, showing himself that he is God.” The restrainer that the Apostle Paul was referring to in 2 Thessalonians was the Western Roman Emperor, who held back the Popes from taking power. Once the last Western Roman Emperor was removed from power in 476 AD, the Pope was given civil and ecclesiastic authority over Rome; healing the deadly head wound of the beast in Revelation 13, as they took the Emperors title of Pontifex Maximus, leader of the church and state. “We may according to the fullness of our power, dispose of the law and dispense above the law. Those whom the Pope of Rome doth separate, it is not a man that separates them but God. For the Pope holdeth place on earth, not simply of a man but of the true God.” (Source: “Decretals of Gregory IX,” Book 1, chapter 3.) Pope Pius V blasphemed, “The Pope and God are the same, so he has all power in Heaven and earth.” (Source: Pope Pius V, quoted in Barclay, Cities Petrus Bertanous Chapter XXVII: 218.) Pope Leo XIII declared, “We hold upon this earth the place of God Almighty.” (Source: Pope Leo XIII Encyclical Letter, June 20, 1894) The antichrist sea beast of Revelation points to the office of the papacy, the Popes of Rome, who controlled the Roman beast for 1,260 years, from 538-1798 AD. Daniel 7:25 says “And he shall speak great words against the most High, and shall wear out the saints of the most High, and think to change times and laws: and they shall be given into his hand until a time and times and the dividing of time.” The Popes of Rome spoke against Elohim and proclaimed to be God. They reigned for 1,260 years, from 538-1798 AD. during which they caused tens of millions of saints to be killed. The Pope’s title is Vicar of Christ, which in Latin is ‘Vicarius Filii Dei’, and equates numerically to the number 666
Fun to watch this over a year later! Consumer printers have come a looong way. You could now buy a printer for well under $1,000 that would fit these on the print bed more easily and print them in 1/2 the time or less. Probably a lot less if you dialed in your TPU settings. You also could have saved time with a different style of supports or some other infill strategies. Also possibly by angling the shoe with the sole facing the bed, but the front down and the back angled way up. Most of the support would have been under the sole then, which is the least visible part, and you probably wouldn't have needed interior support. Lots of other improvements include different infill pattern and density of course, as well as more bottom layers on the sole, and probably an extra wall or two. Would be nice to print a different number of walls for the sole and the top of the shoe, but that's a bit more complicated. Plus a different pattern on the sole would help with grip. Could also add something called fuzzy skin to the outside of the shoe which would decrease visibility of layer lines and geometry, though obviously it would be a different look. The bright blue color definitely contributed to the arts and crafts appearance, but I don't think they looked bad. No worse than Crocs! Definitely demonstrates just how rugged TPU is though. Mostly just sharing thoughts for others reading comments since I'm sure the video creator already knows all of this now. First video I've seen by him though.
@@njdotson Most printers can do a lot, just requires dialing in settings and also changes how fast they will get it done. TPU is definitely a bit of a speed limiter though so even a cheaper printer can usually do fairly well like you said, provided they don't have an awful extruder setup.
Dude, I have been using the Ender 3 V2 for about a year now and it works amazingly and it prints TPU 95A without any issues. I think you had the settings all messed up. I think if you took the time to try and get it to work it would have been fine
Adding a bunch more walls will help with the leaking, and trying different infill patterns and densities will help with the firmness. Try cubic or gyriod infills. Both distribute force pretty evenly, and gyriod creates one continuous void rather than making individual air pockets
This was unexpectedly heart warming. I liked how all the ppl who are obviously really into shoes and sneakers were so supportive of the shoes and no one teased you about it unless if you said something mocking the shoes. I thought that was nice how they were supportive just in case you were like… idk… wanting to be a shoe designer or something. Really kind. Not that the sneakers were so horrible lol but it’s just nice to see ppl being cool to each other like that.
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I'd love to see even more attempts. maybe with more holes like a foam runner or pair of crocs to maybe cut down on print time. maybe try some different structures in the midsole, like a cross kind of structure that could give them more durability and spring. really fun idea though.
The ender 3 is definitely a usable printer but it is cheap so you won't get what you get out of a prusa without putting more time into it. the shoes need more infill in the sole and you need to print with more walls. more walls will increase the thickness of the outside layers so it won't pop as easily.
suggestions for a V2: - make separate connectable prints, this would allow you to experiment with more designs and harder/softer materials as well as changing the infill pattern and density for the sole of the shoe to allow a bit more give and durability because from the looks of it you used a stock barebones one, when you should've probably done a more 3D one. - try making a dual sole with a softer material that locks into a harder (but still flexible) material, you could deal with less wear on the shoe as a whole and just have for the most part replaceable pads - open source this project! so many people will jump in to help you if you do, I know I would lmfao
Tbh if you’re a beginner buying a $1k+ printer in a time crunch I would have recommended the Bambu X1 carbon. Prints very fast, beginner friendly, decently large bed, and basically ready out of the box with no assembly.
Throwing the Ender 3 away was such a waste. It takes a while to get them printing correctly, but I have two of them that work great and I have one of them set up with a direct drive mod for flexible filaments. Should have put in a lot more effort or at least donated it somewhere.
He's a clown with more money than wisdom. It's like this spoiled brat throwing away a new bike when there's people who have to walk to work because they can't afford one. Ignorant people know no better
Which printers are relatively "problem-free"? Resin and filament. I'm more of a miniature person. I have (had) a Prusa that was effectively destroyed by a major blob while I was away for too long.
love this seth...you keep innovating the youtube narrative...glad you appreciate NEW & DIFFERENT content instead of following others...understandably i know the thrift challenge was due to retro rick but your take on it stands out!! excited for pt 2 of the series, think you should also give it more time for design purposes but in all GREAT ViD!
Right so I'm kinda into 3d printing and have some suggestions to help you out. Look into the cr-30 printer from creality, it's a belt driven printer that can go on endlessly (literally a 3d printer with a tredmil as a print bed), now your going to have to convert from a Bowden extruder to a direct drive. Direct drive is what will allow you to print with flexable filaments like ninjatek's "ninjaflex tpu" Is it gonna be alot more complicated than printing each shoe out on a prusa, yes but it will be totally worth it imo...
I'd use more perimiterss than you did for this, and perhaps some better infill for the soles, preferably gyroid. Also, I'd suggest experimenting with different types of TPU with varying hardness. PS: If you add a thin layer of gluestick to the build plate, you won't have to rub off the excess filament ;)
If you try this again, I would suggest breaking it down into like.. three parts. Make the sole out of TPU, which is still flexible but more rugged. The top should be designed to be fastened together and made of your flexible plastic - it'll allow you to print an overall bigger shoe on your Prusa and probably let make it more compliant to your foot.
I am interested in learning 3D modeling for fashion purposes. Can you explain why Solid Works is bad choice for making shoes? What software would you recommend?
I was kinda sad to see you throw out the exact printer I spent a lot of time to save for and use nearly every day,,, what a waste, I would have loved to have it
I'm just learning some stuff about 3d printing, but there are a few things I think you may want to consider. First, increase the infill on the soles to something like 25%, and 2nd, change the infill pattern to something like cubic or cubic support aka cubic subdivision. 3rd, you may want to increase the perimeter to something like 4 or 5, so that the walls will be thicker and less likely to pop. Finally, you may want to use a setting that aligns your seams. You should be able to find that setting in Prusa Slicer. Makers Muse has a great video about 5 different slice settings he changes, which might help.
You could redo these now with tree supports and the print time would be significantly less FYI. Given you used TPU you could do a scan of your foot, then print in a hard filament like PLA and use that to stretch the shoe/maybe heat it a little to stretch it. Also if you did want to reduce the infill on the sole it would also reduce the print time and you could then add some holes into the bottom to inject some gel/silicon sealant to give it strength before wearing. 3D printing by itself gets you so far, its when you start mixing and matching with other materials you start to really tap into the best of 3D printing
what filament dd you use? I have been watching these videos because I have recently seen the use of TPU Filament. Also, is there any more silicone type filament for 3D printing that you know of? Great video!
Never heard of this cannel before but I normally see 3d printed stuff show up on my feed. I dig this project. I wish you would have also shared the brand and product name of your filament. You mentioned that you bought wrong 3d modeling software. What software do you think would be best for creating shoes? I look forward for V2.
You should have changed the layer height to shorten The printing time. No need to keep it at 20mm. It will also get better if you make it thicker on top of saving time.
I think you would like the Varioshore Foaming TPU filament (by ‘ColorFabb’) for some printed shoes. Stefan from the ‘CNC Kitchen’ YT channel recently tested it. It has properties that might make it perfect for your own future 3D printed shoe projects. Variable density is achieved by foaming the filament as it extrudes due to it containing (or being coated with) a reactive agent (like Baking Powder). Density shore hardness 92A(unfoamed) to shore 55A (maximum foamed). Regular strength/density at approx’ 200C degrees nozzle temperature printing, but lighter weight (less dense / ‘foamed’), at 220+ degrees to 250 degrees (Celsius). Despite the very soft foamed properties achievable, it doesn’t behave like a sponge.
For a V2, Id say for the hollow footbed, I'd suggest using the support material as a means to fill it for support, because it would allow it to be infinitely more comfortable, and I'd also make the arguement to widen the back, also consider getting some sandpaper and going and sand off some off material till it fits perfectly
I am 13 and bought a ender 3 with no experience off amazon and was able to calibrate it all the stuff so i could print it took me 3 weeks but why couldnt you have taken the time or have sold it to some one who wanted it
I'm just going to be honest with ya, you had to do way more research on 3D printing lol, and how to design for 3D printing. Also 100% needed a bigger printer, if you really want to do shoes you need to get a HUGE dual head printer, so you can print both shoes at the same time, or maybe just get 2 printers probably. 2 printers would be a lot better IMO. Get a Vivedino Troodon as the best value large format 3D printer. And maybe try foam PLA or foam TPU filaments too. The dual head option can max 2 materials. The surface texture is the biggest thing you can customize really.
All in all, pretty sweet. Definitely something I thought would be cool to do, but being a 10.5, I would have an even more difficult time getting it to fit on my print bed. Some day I'll upgrade to something bigger
This is an unintentionally GREAT ad for Prusa printers. To print 2 giant prints in flex filament of all things, with tons of supports, and have them work flawlessly first try is pretty impressive.
Yeah, I have a MK4 and it's the first printer that just works in every regard, made TPU accessible for me, and that says a lot, since I already owned 6 printers over the course of a decade. One of the last I had before was a Ender 5, pretty much a nightmare to work with, almost sucked all the joy of 3d printing out of me. I'm glad I pulled the trigger and tossed the Ender for a Prusa too. (although I sold my Ender)
if you turn the infill up to 70-80% and then use lightning you'll get a really nice soft sole. i noticed the infill are cubes and those vertical lines to nothing for support. need lots of density and criss-cross patterns.
Are you printing with the Cura Slicer?? I notice your Infill is um.... VERY wide. But I can also understand of the time constrain too. Actually! I like to see this again with a 35% or 40% infill.
I have a feeling you are an iPhone user and could get a photogrammetry app to get a model of your foot to design the shoe around. Give a good tolerance around the foot though. Filament does shrink.
You ditched the s1 for a Prusa printer? Honestly pretty based; you're going to be very happy with your Prusa printer. I and my dad have shared an i3 mk2 for around 6 years now and it's only just beginning to show signs of age. Prusa printers are the real deal!
Things you can do to lessen the print time. 1. Adjust the support to have a narrow Base (forgot the term in Cura) 2. Do not put a hole design in the top if it needs a lot of support to print. Hole design will take more time. 3. Optional but you can pause the printing before it covers up the insole then put a Jelly or foamy material inside. Can improve the comfort and optionally lessen the infill.
Well as I am planning to buy a 300 mm x 300 mm x 400 mm printer I was curious I could actually print this. My slippper is exactly 320 mm long. Now, for a better fit, I could probably print in an upright, toe down position, which means no supports inside the shoe (probably) which implies a print time that is legions shorter than what you're doing.
as a 3d print enthusiast (i have 4) and printed a small amount of TPU, this was fascinating. great job. Prusa should give you a nice nod because printing TPU can be tough. This could be an add for their printer's reliability and quality
TPU isn’t that hard to print, even a stock ender 3 can print most TPUs with the exception of the ultra flexible ones. The Prusa is a direct drive anyway, if it couldn’t print TPU it would be a rubbish product, it doesn’t really show its reliability or quality just that it can print a material it would be expected to print.
If you are 3D printing in a enclosed space with poor air flow you really should set up a air system of some sorts, even if its just bring in fresh air and pumping out hot air by the 3D printer. I have my Ender 3 v2 in a enclosed case that helps keep the temperature more consistent. The case sucks in air from the room and then vents all the air from the 3D printer outside and I have fans in the vent to help keep the air moving. This also helps so I'm not breathing any microplastic in the air from the 3D printer. Cost me $20 to set my DIY air system, very easy and very helpful.
So for v2? What you can try to do is put some rubber sealing on the bottom of the shoe to possibly keep it from wearing and/or cracking. Also, if your printer can accept a plate expansion, try a bigger plate for a few cm larger. ✌
You should figure out a design based around both 3D printers and shoes. That's what I did to design my ocarina. There are lots of ocarina designs available on the internet. Not all of them produce playable, ocarinas or ocarina that don't require additional finishing processes like sading, which wrecks the finish of clear or sparkly filaments. So I designed mine with the printing limitations of FDM in mind and made sure to limit my min overhang angle to 45 deg unless bridging. Just doing that makes it so that you never need supports unless you have a super long bridge. Next thing is plan you bed connecting surface and bump your bed temp to 80 deg. At 80 Deg the TPU is glued to the board. So if you plan a well enough sized area patch, you can print with no brims or supports on the board. To make your shoes air tight, go into your settings on prusa slicer and go to the machine gcode. Change M221 S{if layer_height>0.075}100{else}95{endif} to M221 S{if layer_height
We definitely need a v2 of these!
A v2 would be sick!
Come on Seth v2 would be fire
True
I would buy it
he threw the v2 idea in the trash... 0:59
Ender 3 is really good printer for the price. I use mine for 4 years now I think and it still works really good. You just need to make few adjustments when is out of the box. You shouldn't throw it away, you should have give it to someone who knows how stuff works.
Yep, when I saw him toss it in the trash can, I immediately came to the comments. I almost just straight turned off the video. The Ender 3 is a very good 3d printer, if you just put 2 minutes of effort into it.
Agreed, seeing that was a freaking shame. Mine is working perfectly for me. Took a bit of debugging in the beginning, but it really is a very consistent printer.
My Ender 3 has worked great for me too. You just have to put it together right and take the time to calibrate it...
True
ikr
RIP the Ender 3 in the trash 😔 Its actually a really good 3d printer for the price, wish I could have helped you out before you tossed it!
This - guess he ain't tech savy enough.
bro same. i was so surprised that it didnt work for him. i got my v2 working like the next day of owning it
bro my v1 worked perfect and i set it up the day it came. its still prints, and i have never put together anythingand i also have zero experince with the computer aspect and its so easy
Facts
Yeah that was all user error 1000% if you can’t get a v2 to work, 3D printing may not be for you
Hey, if you haven't done so yet, get a larger diameter nozzle (eg. 0.8mm) and crank up your layer height to 0.4mm so you can prototype quicker. You could probably cut your print time in half, all while getting thicker, more sturdy walls.
It doesn’t matter how big your printer is. You will always need to print something just slightly larger than your available area.
people with a blackbelt printer: 😳
I may give this a try on my Rat Rig 500mm. Should be able to fit a pair if I'm brave enough
Printing the earth
Yea but if you are buying a printer for a specific purpose. And they are willing to drop $1300 for one print. You would think someone would take print area into consideration...
Two tips to help you increase the durability of your next shoe print:
1 - If your going to print the shoe on it's side like you did with this version, increase the wall amount by at least 5, this will give the bottom of the shoe a thicker wall, trapping the air inside so you wont have any problems involving the shoe deflating.
2 - Play around with Infill patterns! Some of them can be pretty shitty when it comes to sustaining heavy weights so it's all about finding that perfect pattern as well as the percentage.
I'd also suggest different infill patterns. Maybe a 3D infill like Cube or Gyroid would help keeping flexibility the same in all directions
The ender usually needs adjusting to get working well initially, but it's a great printer. Absolutely a waste to throw it away
Agreed… had mine for about 3-4 years have have pushed it to its limits. It has been great the entire time.
yeah, people dont understand that you really get what you pay for with 3D printers and some people are ok with putting in some effort to upgrade, but others want the perfect thing right out of the box. And yeah, total waste if he actually threw it away, at least give it to a highschool or library, or just stick it on craigslist for someone.
@@DoctorRedstone72 he missed the opportunity for a giveaway…
Yup, unless a major component was dead in the water I find it incredibly hard to believe it "just wouldn't print". Maybe with zero adjustments, sure.
Everyone who does the tiniest bit of research would see that if you want a 3D printer working perfectly out of the box like an inkjet...you're spending much more money.
@@kurtownsj00 also depending on the slicer he can get tons of stringing simply because it's a feature lacking profile. but I've spent many many hours tinkering away with customizing with making my own enclosure and stuff, he only had 2 weeks by the looks of it and zero interest in nerding around with learning new programs.
I've seen a lot of great comments about suggestions for a v2, so I figured I'd throw in my 2 cents as well--
- You can probably bump up the layer height from 0.2mm to 0.3mm which will give a MASSIVE reduction in the print time.
- You might also want to try a 0.6mm nozzle, or increasing the extrusion width parameters with the 0.4mm nozzle.
- You may want to try some of the 3D infill patterns in PrusaSlicer, such as Gyroid or Cubic for better foot support.
- (The terminology got a bit confusing, as "support" generally refers to the external material that is removed after the object is printing and "infill" refers to the grid-like structure inside the object.)
I am definitely a bit envious that your feet are small enough for a shoe to fit on a Prusa MK3S. I don't think I could print a shoe that fits me on mine. Looking forward to a part 2 (hopefully)!
The amount of support (basically a whole foot gets printed) is definitely way overboard!
If I may add, the support needs to be denser in the sole at the back, to support the weight of the body.
This. 0.6mm nozzle is how I got my ender 3 to print TPU. Adding more holes like crocs would reduce print time too. Higher triangular infill in the lower sole would likely improve comfort.
My dude, this needs to be a series. There were a lot of learning discoveries for you and I'd love to see you make improvements and eventually make a decent shoe.
@David Chen cant say this any better
I am subscribing , i hope to see more, i will wait 3 months, after that im gone kkkkkk, it would be awesome to see a series learning and improving a 3d printed shoe until you make a great one, also if you decide to do a series, work with someone to decide on the design first kkkkkkk, here some ideas, 1) divide the chapters in finding the best format of each part of the shoe, sole, upper body, left, right, ankle, and it does not need to be 100% 3d printed, you could attach some things to it, laces or a mechanism to tie the shoe, also the sole of the shoe, honeycomb style with a X design inside should give you confort and durability
If you ever intend to do a V2, I would HIGHLY recommend Gyroid infill, as the pressure will be dispersed evenly across the entire sole and much more uniform simply because of the 3D structuring of Gyroid infill. That and a couple more walls to allow for better sole rigidity.
Edit: also probably a more conventional color for testing just so you don't draw attention to test shoes, but that's fully up to you
ok thanks i just bought my first printer yesterday (ender 3 v2) and then got scared when he through it away
Conical supports would save a lot of print time also
This kind of content is honestly what makes you stand out among others in the same niche. I didn't expect much going into this video after seeing the shorts, but boy was I wrong. I didn't know that something so simple, a 3d printed slide/shoe at that, can create a nice little narrative. Appreciate what you do, just like how you've re-crafted the $20 series to create more interest while listening to the feedback of your audience.
Keep on keeping on beyond the norm!
Nice one
Repent and follow Jesus my friend! Repenting doesn't mean confessing your sins to others, but to stop doing them altogether. Belief in Messiah alone is not enough to get you into heaven - Matthew 7:21-23, John 3:3, John 3:36 (ESV is the best translation for John 3:36). Contemplate how the Roman empire fulfilled the role of the beast from the sea in Revelation 13. Revelation 17 confirms that it is in fact Rome. From this we can conclude that A) Jesus is the Son of God and can predict the future or make it happen, B) The world leaders/nations/governments etc have been conspiring together for the last 3000+ years to accomplish the religion of the Israelites C) History as we know it is fake. You don't really need to speculate though because you can start a relationship with God and have proof. Call on the name of Jesus and pray for Him to intervene in your life. - Revelation 3:20
Revelation has been unfolding since Jesus died. The Popes have claimed to be equal to God and set themselves in Jesus' place (antichrist(s)). Vatican City (Which is its own nation BTW) have risen up to fulfill the role of the false prophet
Regarding the man of lawlessness or antichrist, 2 Thessalonians 2:4 says “Who opposes and exalts himself above all that is called God, or that is worshipped; so that he as God sits in the temple of God, showing himself that he is God.” The restrainer that the Apostle Paul was referring to in 2 Thessalonians was the Western Roman Emperor, who held back the Popes from taking power. Once the last Western Roman Emperor was removed from power in 476 AD, the Pope was given civil and ecclesiastic authority over Rome; healing the deadly head wound of the beast in Revelation 13, as they took the Emperors title of Pontifex Maximus, leader of the church and state.
“We may according to the fullness of our power, dispose of the law and dispense above the law. Those whom the Pope of Rome doth separate, it is not a man that separates them but God. For the Pope holdeth place on earth, not simply of a man but of the true God.” (Source: “Decretals of Gregory IX,” Book 1, chapter 3.)
Pope Pius V blasphemed, “The Pope and God are the same, so he has all power in Heaven and earth.” (Source: Pope Pius V, quoted in Barclay, Cities Petrus Bertanous Chapter XXVII: 218.)
Pope Leo XIII declared, “We hold upon this earth the place of God Almighty.” (Source: Pope Leo XIII Encyclical Letter, June 20, 1894)
The antichrist sea beast of Revelation points to the office of the papacy, the Popes of Rome, who controlled the Roman beast for 1,260 years, from 538-1798 AD.
Daniel 7:25 says “And he shall speak great words against the most High, and shall wear out the saints of the most High, and think to change times and laws: and they shall be given into his hand until a time and times and the dividing of time.” The Popes of Rome spoke against Elohim and proclaimed to be God. They reigned for 1,260 years, from 538-1798 AD. during which they caused tens of millions of saints to be killed.
The Pope’s title is Vicar of Christ, which in Latin is ‘Vicarius Filii Dei’, and equates numerically to the number 666
ua-cam.com/video/0QRGrXt0aJs/v-deo.html
ITS FINALLY HERE
Wouldn't have expected to see a sablay pic on this channel lol
yea he stands out as a guy who didnt have the mental capacity or know how to get the ender 3 working properly so he trhows it in the garbage instead of maybe donating it to a viewer. stands out very much yes.
This definitely needs to be a series! This was super interesting to watch and I'd love to see you iterate on the design to make some actual good, comfy 3d printed shoes
Going overboard on the supports really hurts your print-time. Also go for more infill, because that was not much at all. I'd also try to bump up the printspeed, with flexible filament you can try pushing 40mm/s, especially with a direct drive machine like you have. All those things combined will result in a more comfortable shoe in like half the print time
You know what, I might give modelling a shoe a go. I'll hit you up with the file when/if I finish :p
ua-cam.com/video/0QRGrXt0aJs/v-deo.html
ITS FINALLY HERE
@@lennertlaevaert8711 I'd love to model myself a shoe and print it but I'm size 13 so there's no way. Unless of course I get a belt printer.... for 1300 or something like that..
@@clayman0430 My cheap- Anet A8 clone has a bigger heated bed than the real A8, and would probably fit. :P If I were home I'd have exact dimensions and be able to say for sure!
@@kurtownsj00 bro be careful, have you not seen the anet a8 on fire picture?
I think printing the soles and printing the uppers separately and then gluing them together would probably be quicker, allow for some adjustment also give you the ability to add arch support. It is a very cool project however, 3D printers are really almost becoming a staple of a lot of households it seems, I’m going to have to buy one at some point soon
Would love to see v2 of the ‘fear of clogs’
That first printer you showed that was "garbage" is a creality ender v2, i have one of those, really good printer but you have to know how to set it up correctly and you have to re-check everything before each print
I used to 3d print Crocs and heels for my X-wives doll(1/12th size) company. Always wanted to do life size models and this motivates me to try. Thanks for the video!
3d is the best
In case you haven't done this already: Well, use more infill. That will make the sole stiffer and not so like a water balloon ;-)
... You can adjust that in the slicer setting. A slicer is that program that cuts your design in horizontal slices for printing (e.g. Prusaslicer for your prusa printer). And there you can adjust the 3D structure of the infill pattern and the density (10% or 20% for example). But the infill pattern is orinted relative to the build plate and not relative to the shoe orientation in space ;-) So just pick an infill pattern that varies along the height and you would get some compromise for dampening in many directions and some of them will help you, you should not fall through your shoe to the hard ground ;-)
And you could print it with 3 or more outer walls to make it more robust against puncturing. The standard are 2. But it takes time. And it gets stiffer, but that could let it break instead of bend, maybe there where you bend your shoe while walking...
But it would take at least a day longer when you had 3 days for one shoe - and you have so much volume to fill in the sole...
And make the heel wider when that was a pain. Maybe make the shoe around your heel higher. I think, it was too low on your heel, that could hurt. And expand whatever was too small too on your shoe.
That are things that you can change "easily". It's more difficult to find a material like "the same, but more robust against wear"... You would have to start from scratch - more or less - with the search for materials. Make a collab with 3D filament makers and let these experts do their job, they should know what to pick ;-) Easy for you ;-)
There are flexible filaments that are more flexible - and others that are stiffer. Good filaments have something like a number for the flexibility to compare them. But that might not do much with wear and tear and just make the overall shoe more stiff? It could break instead of bending... It's a trade-off as so often in engineering...
Make a test sole piece, where you can see how flexible and how stiff it is against standing on it and against bending - with different materials and different infill patterns (orientation! The same orientation on the build plate as the final shoe, don't print it flat on the printer or you would get different results later with your shoe print when that is not flat on your printer). And you can test the material against wear and tear against rough concrete walls or even sand paper...
(I sound almost like an expert, but no, I just do 3D printing as a hobby and I watched your experiences with your new shoes ;-)
Interesting concept I think if you would have done maybe 40-50% infill with either the cubic or gyroid pattern they would have been alot more comfy in the soles, the heel problem could be easily fixed by widening the back of the shoe by maybe 10mm?
I made some shoes and I found cura lines at 13% single line with a 2cm sole for 130lbs works great for walking running and jumping on all terrain
I'm glad I found this video. I've been designing my own pair of shoes for months now, trying out different methods of making a sole from scratch including 3D printing them out of a flexible material. So far, I've found that coating the sole in something like latex, silicone, or rubber will give it more strength and durability while maintaining flexibility.
I dream of a future where we literally just pick up some raw materials and go ham designing as a then much more advanced and versatile 3D printer gives us exactly what we ask from it. Imagine it's not only a 3D printer, but also a scanner. Got a sick pair of shoes you wanna make some adjustments to? You can deconstruct and adjust it digitally, like a template to work from. I'm envious if I just barely miss these developments... I truly wonder what it'd be like if we have a tiny scale industry at the tip of our fingers, maybe some amazing material recycling machines, just picture it, digital 3D design would become a standard in education if it was really that accessible and applicable.
@@mikeycrackson That's a good point, also making wide variants of shoes that don't have those etc.
Once you've got your foot exactly figured out and you keep those blueprints, you could make basically any shoe very comfy.
Repent and follow Jesus my friend! Repenting doesn't mean confessing your sins to others, but to stop doing them altogether. Belief in Messiah alone is not enough to get you into heaven - Matthew 7:21-23, John 3:3, John 3:36 (ESV is the best translation for John 3:36). Contemplate how the Roman empire fulfilled the role of the beast from the sea in Revelation 13. Revelation 17 confirms that it is in fact Rome. From this we can conclude that A) Jesus is the Son of God and can predict the future or make it happen, B) The world leaders/nations/governments etc have been conspiring together for the last 3000+ years to accomplish the religion of the Israelites C) History as we know it is fake. You don't really need to speculate though because you can start a relationship with God and have proof. Call on the name of Jesus and pray for Him to intervene in your life. - Revelation 3:20
Revelation has been unfolding since Jesus died. The Popes have claimed to be equal to God and set themselves in Jesus' place (antichrist(s)). Vatican City (Which is its own nation BTW) have risen up to fulfill the role of the false prophet
Regarding the man of lawlessness or antichrist, 2 Thessalonians 2:4 says “Who opposes and exalts himself above all that is called God, or that is worshipped; so that he as God sits in the temple of God, showing himself that he is God.” The restrainer that the Apostle Paul was referring to in 2 Thessalonians was the Western Roman Emperor, who held back the Popes from taking power. Once the last Western Roman Emperor was removed from power in 476 AD, the Pope was given civil and ecclesiastic authority over Rome; healing the deadly head wound of the beast in Revelation 13, as they took the Emperors title of Pontifex Maximus, leader of the church and state.
“We may according to the fullness of our power, dispose of the law and dispense above the law. Those whom the Pope of Rome doth separate, it is not a man that separates them but God. For the Pope holdeth place on earth, not simply of a man but of the true God.” (Source: “Decretals of Gregory IX,” Book 1, chapter 3.)
Pope Pius V blasphemed, “The Pope and God are the same, so he has all power in Heaven and earth.” (Source: Pope Pius V, quoted in Barclay, Cities Petrus Bertanous Chapter XXVII: 218.)
Pope Leo XIII declared, “We hold upon this earth the place of God Almighty.” (Source: Pope Leo XIII Encyclical Letter, June 20, 1894)
The antichrist sea beast of Revelation points to the office of the papacy, the Popes of Rome, who controlled the Roman beast for 1,260 years, from 538-1798 AD.
Daniel 7:25 says “And he shall speak great words against the most High, and shall wear out the saints of the most High, and think to change times and laws: and they shall be given into his hand until a time and times and the dividing of time.” The Popes of Rome spoke against Elohim and proclaimed to be God. They reigned for 1,260 years, from 538-1798 AD. during which they caused tens of millions of saints to be killed.
The Pope’s title is Vicar of Christ, which in Latin is ‘Vicarius Filii Dei’, and equates numerically to the number 666
@@isaiahc8390 Jesus and God is daddy
Fun to watch this over a year later! Consumer printers have come a looong way. You could now buy a printer for well under $1,000 that would fit these on the print bed more easily and print them in 1/2 the time or less. Probably a lot less if you dialed in your TPU settings.
You also could have saved time with a different style of supports or some other infill strategies. Also possibly by angling the shoe with the sole facing the bed, but the front down and the back angled way up. Most of the support would have been under the sole then, which is the least visible part, and you probably wouldn't have needed interior support. Lots of other improvements include different infill pattern and density of course, as well as more bottom layers on the sole, and probably an extra wall or two. Would be nice to print a different number of walls for the sole and the top of the shoe, but that's a bit more complicated. Plus a different pattern on the sole would help with grip.
Could also add something called fuzzy skin to the outside of the shoe which would decrease visibility of layer lines and geometry, though obviously it would be a different look. The bright blue color definitely contributed to the arts and crafts appearance, but I don't think they looked bad. No worse than Crocs! Definitely demonstrates just how rugged TPU is though. Mostly just sharing thoughts for others reading comments since I'm sure the video creator already knows all of this now. First video I've seen by him though.
I was super surprised he got a 1000 dollar printer because I feel like my 250 dollar one could do it with no issues
@@njdotson Most printers can do a lot, just requires dialing in settings and also changes how fast they will get it done. TPU is definitely a bit of a speed limiter though so even a cheaper printer can usually do fairly well like you said, provided they don't have an awful extruder setup.
Dude, I have been using the Ender 3 V2 for about a year now and it works amazingly and it prints TPU 95A without any issues. I think you had the settings all messed up. I think if you took the time to try and get it to work it would have been fine
It probably would have been better for him just to get a cr10, because of how big the shoes are anyways
Glass bed helps. Also the quieter mainboard..
Ender 3 pro is useful****
Adding a bunch more walls will help with the leaking, and trying different infill patterns and densities will help with the firmness. Try cubic or gyriod infills. Both distribute force pretty evenly, and gyriod creates one continuous void rather than making individual air pockets
i am just curious why you did not start printing from the bottom of the shoes instead of starting side way
Unfortunately it couldn't fit on the print bed flat, otherwise i would have and Im sure it would have saved a bunch of time
@@SethFowler can't wait for second version
@@tripleben9457 me too
This was unexpectedly heart warming. I liked how all the ppl who are obviously really into shoes and sneakers were so supportive of the shoes and no one teased you about it unless if you said something mocking the shoes. I thought that was nice how they were supportive just in case you were like… idk… wanting to be a shoe designer or something. Really kind.
Not that the sneakers were so horrible lol but it’s just nice to see ppl being cool to each other like that.
Content just keeps getting better! Great Experiment!
What program would be best to design a 3D printed shoe? And which 3D printer do you recommend to print larger size shoes??
Congratulations you have been randomly selected among my giveaway channel winner kindly send a text to the above username 👆👆to acknowledge your prize 🏆🏆.
I'd love to see even more attempts. maybe with more holes like a foam runner or pair of crocs to maybe cut down on print time. maybe try some different structures in the midsole, like a cross kind of structure that could give them more durability and spring. really fun idea though.
The ender 3 is definitely a usable printer but it is cheap so you won't get what you get out of a prusa without putting more time into it. the shoes need more infill in the sole and you need to print with more walls. more walls will increase the thickness of the outside layers so it won't pop as easily.
I feel like you should put some kind of lattice into the sole so it's more spongy rather than hollow bubbles, preventing popping
With 3D printing, creativity knows no bounds!
The filler mesh would work great as sole cushioning 🤓
Or the gyroid
That ender you tossed was perfectly fine. You can't just plug it in and go. You have to work with it.
suggestions for a V2:
- make separate connectable prints, this would allow you to experiment with more designs and harder/softer materials as well as changing the infill pattern and density for the sole of the shoe to allow a bit more give and durability because from the looks of it you used a stock barebones one, when you should've probably done a more 3D one.
- try making a dual sole with a softer material that locks into a harder (but still flexible) material, you could deal with less wear on the shoe as a whole and just have for the most part replaceable pads
- open source this project! so many people will jump in to help you if you do, I know I would lmfao
Tbh if you’re a beginner buying a $1k+ printer in a time crunch I would have recommended the Bambu X1 carbon. Prints very fast, beginner friendly, decently large bed, and basically ready out of the box with no assembly.
Right? I wouldn’t pay $1300 for that Prusa. Slow af
@@bulletsabers the Prusa mk4 is quite good and comparable in terms of performance but I also like the form factor of Bambu more
man it’s crazy what people can do with these 3D printers, looks cool tbh
What material did you use? Was it a brand? Regular TPU? What hardness?
Throwing the Ender 3 away was such a waste. It takes a while to get them printing correctly, but I have two of them that work great and I have one of them set up with a direct drive mod for flexible filaments. Should have put in a lot more effort or at least donated it somewhere.
He's a clown with more money than wisdom. It's like this spoiled brat throwing away a new bike when there's people who have to walk to work because they can't afford one. Ignorant people know no better
Hyped them for 13 minutes, wore them for a week and nothing happened. Here. Saved you 17 minutes.
this was the most interesting video I've ever watched. Your narrative and dude at 10:00 had me crying laughing...😂
Which printers are relatively "problem-free"? Resin and filament. I'm more of a miniature person.
I have (had) a Prusa that was effectively destroyed by a major blob while I was away for too long.
Nah, these go so hard in my opinion!
Beautiful color and the 3D print finish adds character
Definitely worth a revisit
OMG you should have given that ender 3 to me. That thing just needs a lot of adjustments and tinkering in order for it to work flawlessly.
Or to a million other people who aren't as spoiled and ignorant as him to be throwing 300$ products in the trash
love this seth...you keep innovating the youtube narrative...glad you appreciate NEW & DIFFERENT content instead of following others...understandably i know the thrift challenge was due to retro rick but your take on it stands out!! excited for pt 2 of the series, think you should also give it more time for design purposes but in all GREAT ViD!
Right so I'm kinda into 3d printing and have some suggestions to help you out.
Look into the cr-30 printer from creality, it's a belt driven printer that can go on endlessly (literally a 3d printer with a tredmil as a print bed), now your going to have to convert from a Bowden extruder to a direct drive. Direct drive is what will allow you to print with flexable filaments like ninjatek's "ninjaflex tpu"
Is it gonna be alot more complicated than printing each shoe out on a prusa, yes but it will be totally worth it imo...
I'd use more perimiterss than you did for this, and perhaps some better infill for the soles, preferably gyroid. Also, I'd suggest experimenting with different types of TPU with varying hardness.
PS: If you add a thin layer of gluestick to the build plate, you won't have to rub off the excess filament ;)
can we know what is the material used and what is the infill percentage
If you try this again, I would suggest breaking it down into like.. three parts. Make the sole out of TPU, which is still flexible but more rugged. The top should be designed to be fastened together and made of your flexible plastic - it'll allow you to print an overall bigger shoe on your Prusa and probably let make it more compliant to your foot.
I am interested in learning 3D modeling for fashion purposes. Can you explain why Solid Works is bad choice for making shoes? What software would you recommend?
I was kinda sad to see you throw out the exact printer I spent a lot of time to save for and use nearly every day,,, what a waste, I would have loved to have it
he definitely didn't actually just buy it and throw it away. I'm sure it was used or he used it for that scene then sold it/ gave it away.
Go buy your own shit and stop complaining that people arent giving you free shit u sound like a bum
Its his property why u even mad😂
@@chrisdejesus533 they r not mad
@@chrisdejesus533 bro he is sad, not mad.
I'm just learning some stuff about 3d printing, but there are a few things I think you may want to consider. First, increase the infill on the soles to something like 25%, and 2nd, change the infill pattern to something like cubic or cubic support aka cubic subdivision. 3rd, you may want to increase the perimeter to something like 4 or 5, so that the walls will be thicker and less likely to pop. Finally, you may want to use a setting that aligns your seams. You should be able to find that setting in Prusa Slicer. Makers Muse has a great video about 5 different slice settings he changes, which might help.
this was so bad
If you change your infill type and try using tree supports you can cut the print time down a lot. but for a first try they came out awesome.
Might try this myself... This looks like a fun project.
What filament did you use? Any recommendations?
You could redo these now with tree supports and the print time would be significantly less FYI. Given you used TPU you could do a scan of your foot, then print in a hard filament like PLA and use that to stretch the shoe/maybe heat it a little to stretch it. Also if you did want to reduce the infill on the sole it would also reduce the print time and you could then add some holes into the bottom to inject some gel/silicon sealant to give it strength before wearing. 3D printing by itself gets you so far, its when you start mixing and matching with other materials you start to really tap into the best of 3D printing
what filament dd you use? I have been watching these videos because I have recently seen the use of TPU Filament. Also, is there any more silicone type filament for 3D printing that you know of? Great video!
I can't believe you bought a MkIII, was the Bambu Lab available when you made these? it would have been 3 to 5 times faster!
Nice design though!
Never heard of this cannel before but I normally see 3d printed stuff show up on my feed. I dig this project. I wish you would have also shared the brand and product name of your filament. You mentioned that you bought wrong 3d modeling software. What software do you think would be best for creating shoes? I look forward for V2.
You should have changed the layer height to shorten The printing time. No need to keep it at 20mm. It will also get better if you make it thicker on top of saving time.
I think you would like the Varioshore Foaming TPU filament (by ‘ColorFabb’) for some printed shoes. Stefan from the ‘CNC Kitchen’ YT channel recently tested it. It has properties that might make it perfect for your own future 3D printed shoe projects. Variable density is achieved by foaming the filament as it extrudes due to it containing (or being coated with) a reactive agent (like Baking Powder). Density shore hardness 92A(unfoamed) to shore 55A (maximum foamed). Regular strength/density at approx’ 200C degrees nozzle temperature printing, but lighter weight (less dense / ‘foamed’), at 220+ degrees to 250 degrees (Celsius). Despite the very soft foamed properties achievable, it doesn’t behave like a sponge.
When did arachne get added to prusa slicer?
And how long would these prints be after the update?
You could put a heat gun or even a hair dryer to the bit that diggs in and re mold it to your foot. Pla melts so easily.
12:13 I want those skull shoes... where do I get them?
Seeing someone toss a 3d printer, even one that isn’t working well, fills me with disgust.
For a V2, Id say for the hollow footbed, I'd suggest using the support material as a means to fill it for support, because it would allow it to be infinitely more comfortable, and I'd also make the arguement to widen the back, also consider getting some sandpaper and going and sand off some off material till it fits perfectly
Wondering if you could print both shoes vertically sole to sole to shorten print time...
I'm assuming the "flex material" that you keep referring too, is TPU?
I am 13 and bought a ender 3 with no experience off amazon and was able to calibrate it all the stuff so i could print it took me 3 weeks but why couldnt you have taken the time or have sold it to some one who wanted it
5:58 does the prusa not admit a beep when it finishes? I know my Ender printer does.
Unless that was a octoprint add-on that made it do that..
So suggestion, if you are using cura to slice the shoe, use tree supports. it helps cut down a lot of the time on printing
at 12:08 PLEASE tell me whats his brand name because i just love the sneakers that u showed
I'm just going to be honest with ya, you had to do way more research on 3D printing lol, and how to design for 3D printing.
Also 100% needed a bigger printer, if you really want to do shoes you need to get a HUGE dual head printer, so you can print both shoes at the same time, or maybe just get 2 printers probably. 2 printers would be a lot better IMO.
Get a Vivedino Troodon as the best value large format 3D printer. And maybe try foam PLA or foam TPU filaments too. The dual head option can max 2 materials.
The surface texture is the biggest thing you can customize really.
Imagine the extra time you would have had if the money was spent on a bambu. Dual filament (dissolving supports), and much faster print speeds
All in all, pretty sweet. Definitely something I thought would be cool to do, but being a 10.5, I would have an even more difficult time getting it to fit on my print bed. Some day I'll upgrade to something bigger
Finally someone who isn't a creality simp
This is an unintentionally GREAT ad for Prusa printers. To print 2 giant prints in flex filament of all things, with tons of supports, and have them work flawlessly first try is pretty impressive.
Yeah, I have a MK4 and it's the first printer that just works in every regard, made TPU accessible for me, and that says a lot, since I already owned 6 printers over the course of a decade. One of the last I had before was a Ender 5, pretty much a nightmare to work with, almost sucked all the joy of 3d printing out of me. I'm glad I pulled the trigger and tossed the Ender for a Prusa too. (although I sold my Ender)
great starting point. your guy was right, infill needs to go up in the soles. They are also not waterproof/airtight. More perimeters might help that.
Solidworks...
Onshape is basically a free clone of solidworks developped by the same people who used to develop solidworks...
is the support material not dissolvable like with the printer I learned on?
you can also try to use heatgun to manipulate the TPU filament near the ankle. Since you have hollow parts, might be even harder.
What filliment do you use
yo bro what app do u use to design those shoes i wanna do it
if you turn the infill up to 70-80% and then use lightning you'll get a really nice soft sole. i noticed the infill are cubes and those vertical lines to nothing for support. need lots of density and criss-cross patterns.
Are you printing with the Cura Slicer?? I notice your Infill is um.... VERY wide. But I can also understand of the time constrain too. Actually! I like to see this again with a 35% or 40% infill.
I have a feeling you are an iPhone user and could get a photogrammetry app to get a model of your foot to design the shoe around. Give a good tolerance around the foot though. Filament does shrink.
Does the print direction still matter as much with flex material?
What was the filament cost for printing this? Is it actually cheaper than buying a budget pair of shoes?
How come you didn't go with resin printer?
You ditched the s1 for a Prusa printer? Honestly pretty based; you're going to be very happy with your Prusa printer.
I and my dad have shared an i3 mk2 for around 6 years now and it's only just beginning to show signs of age. Prusa printers are the real deal!
Things you can do to lessen the print time.
1. Adjust the support to have a narrow Base (forgot the term in Cura)
2. Do not put a hole design in the top if it needs a lot of support to print. Hole design will take more time.
3. Optional but you can pause the printing before it covers up the insole then put a Jelly or foamy material inside. Can improve the comfort and optionally lessen the infill.
Well as I am planning to buy a 300 mm x 300 mm x 400 mm printer I was curious I could actually print this.
My slippper is exactly 320 mm long.
Now, for a better fit, I could probably print in an upright, toe down position, which means no supports inside the shoe (probably) which implies a print time that is legions shorter than what you're doing.
wait! why did you throw away an ender?! i literally just bought one and have printed 2 things and came out super high quality lol...
what material did you use for the print?
as a 3d print enthusiast (i have 4) and printed a small amount of TPU, this was fascinating. great job. Prusa should give you a nice nod because printing TPU can be tough. This could be an add for their printer's reliability and quality
TPU isn’t that hard to print, even a stock ender 3 can print most TPUs with the exception of the ultra flexible ones. The Prusa is a direct drive anyway, if it couldn’t print TPU it would be a rubbish product, it doesn’t really show its reliability or quality just that it can print a material it would be expected to print.
Can you share the solidworks file, the STEP file, and the STL?
What is that lamp behind you?? I’d really like to get one!
If you are 3D printing in a enclosed space with poor air flow you really should set up a air system of some sorts, even if its just bring in fresh air and pumping out hot air by the 3D printer. I have my Ender 3 v2 in a enclosed case that helps keep the temperature more consistent. The case sucks in air from the room and then vents all the air from the 3D printer outside and I have fans in the vent to help keep the air moving. This also helps so I'm not breathing any microplastic in the air from the 3D printer. Cost me $20 to set my DIY air system, very easy and very helpful.
why can't you print the shoe oriented upright? can it be tall? or is it the same issue with width?
So for v2? What you can try to do is put some rubber sealing on the bottom of the shoe to possibly keep it from wearing and/or cracking. Also, if your printer can accept a plate expansion, try a bigger plate for a few cm larger. ✌
Great video! Which brand of filament did you use?
You should figure out a design based around both 3D printers and shoes. That's what I did to design my ocarina. There are lots of ocarina designs available on the internet. Not all of them produce playable, ocarinas or ocarina that don't require additional finishing processes like sading, which wrecks the finish of clear or sparkly filaments. So I designed mine with the printing limitations of FDM in mind and made sure to limit my min overhang angle to 45 deg unless bridging.
Just doing that makes it so that you never need supports unless you have a super long bridge.
Next thing is plan you bed connecting surface and bump your bed temp to 80 deg. At 80 Deg the TPU is glued to the board. So if you plan a well enough sized area patch, you can print with no brims or supports on the board.
To make your shoes air tight, go into your settings on prusa slicer and go to the machine gcode. Change M221 S{if layer_height>0.075}100{else}95{endif} to M221 S{if layer_height