Snap On 60amp Battery Charger Repair & Current Test
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- Snap On 60amp Battery Charger Repair & Current Test
I was lucky enough to be give the ultimate in workshop 12v battery chargers from the early 2000s, the only catch was it wasnt working. Luckily it looked like it might be an easy fix of the timer switch.
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Ok so did some more digging today the rectifiers are also not quite right. So will have another update soon, with it pumping out the amps that it should be capable of.
I just stumbled across your video - nice job. I'll start by saying that repairing chargers and supplying parts is what we do. I hope you still have it, because what you have is a GREAT charger. These models were manufactured by Associated Equipment in St Louis, MO until Snap-On started building their own about 25 years ago, and the the old models are the better ones. It's basically an Associated model 6009 or 6009A in Snap-On paint (actually, it's powder-coated). From what I can see in your video, it looks like the main problem is the rectifier. You'll need to repair or replace it. I can say with a fair amount of certainty that the charger was used at some point to boost start a vehicle with a bad battery or starter, and the user just kept cranking away with the charger connected, until the rectifier components started failing. The result is that a number of the the fusible links in the rectifier burned, leaving just a few of the diodes to carry the transformer output. With a healthy rectifier, this charger will peg the 100 amp meter on HI with a load on the battery. It's easy to disassemble the rectifier (a 7/16" wrench is all you need) and check this for yourself. There's 12 button diodes in there, 6 under each of those things that look like tin-can lids. They are connected via what looks like a spoked wheel (the spokes are fusible). You'll find that at least half of those spokes are burned through, and some of the diodes have probably shorted. Be prepared for a lot of loose bits to fall out that used to be part of bigger bits. There are 10 spokes on each side of the rectifier, so if you have enough functioning diodes left, you might be able to re-arrange them and get most of the charger's capacity back, but better to rebuild or replace it. As a safety issue, I'd suggest replacing the timer. None of the parts you need are too expensive. There's a $20 rebuild kit for the Associated rectifiers, but it doesn't fit the ones that Snap-on built. A new replacement rectifier is about $35. Timers aren't too expensive either. You've already done the hard work (the clean-up!), you might as well get back in there and bring back it's functionality.
Good Luck!
Rick P
PLP Battery Supply
plpbattery.com
p.s. - These things can suffer from loose connections that also rob output and create heat, so check/tighten ALL of the connections in the DC circuit - at the rectifier, the meter, the circuit breakers - everywhere from the transformer to the clamps.
Also, you can get rid of most of that vibration by driving the wood wedges in tight between the transformer windings and the laminations - that's where the vibration is coming from. If you can't get them tight enough, just put in some bigger ones. The wedges should be inserted in pairs from the top and bottom of the transformer, like door shims. Get those tight and most of the noise will stop.
Sorry i missed your comment, i have just been through a whirlwind of a few months trying to relocate. I did actually get it all sorted a few months ago and you are spot on. The diodes, well some of the diodes ha fallen out. Ended up replacing them with a more modern style diode and she is an absolute beast of a charger. ua-cam.com/video/VPpc3jM9WOs/v-deo.html
@@testandtune6096 Actually, the button diodes are the best way to go. Bridge rectifiers, stud-mounts, press-fits - they all work, but nothing else provides the capacity and redundancy of the button arrays.
do you sell complete kits to basically refurbish the electroniocs in these machines? I have one not working as well
thanks
Had a similar Snap-on with identical problems, the timer, I repaired.... the rectifier turned out to be a fan-shaped array of button diodes, with a built-in fan shaped fuse, each leg of which would blow if the diode failed, quite ingenious, I saw the patent online....I sourced diodes from Germany, there were enough fuse legs left to make it worthwhile...
Brake cleaner? Seems to be the universal cleaner for electronics. You have to let it evaporate before the charger is used. Flammable!
Gut it and put an another çharger in the case giving you a cool retro look snap on charger. Just a thought. Shame to bin it.
I think that will be the last resort. A modern server power supply, puts out like double this thing and does it in silence. Could fit one nicely inside. However will try and get this working to its full potential first. It's old school and i kind of like its simplicity. I did work out the rectifiers are toast after filimng this video, which is why its not out putting the correct DC voltage.
I was just going to say when the transformer buzzes like that usually the Diodes are bad aka rectifiers, being that old they might be using selenium diodes which look like round plates with a riveted wire attached in the middle. There are many newer types which can be used something in the 50 amp @ 400 volts would work well.
Nah, that just doesnt cut the mustard Andrew, we need our high boosting, tyre smoking psssh pssh N54 content brother!
I just saw this comment....... lol that content is my fave
There is a whole yard of cars that could use tending.
What about using a switch from a sauna or jacuzzi?
I actually found the timers on ali express quite cheap. Not sure if i will bother, however, i need something more beefy. I am wondering if some of the windings the snap on are damaged, although i cant really tell. Its definitely not doing the correct output voltage.
@@testandtune6096 my reservation on patching it up are fried ECUs
Fried ECUs are why we have VVDI prog haha.
You fix nothing but the on off switch you didn’t check the diode the transformer anything low should still be 12 V up to 13 medium should be 13 to 14 and high close is not a boost should be around 16 max
Thanks appreciate the kind and helpful words.