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How to Install a 220 Volt 4 Wire Outlet
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- Опубліковано 16 вер 2013
- How to install a 220 volt 4 wire outlet for a dryer or stove. Please be advised this is for the USA only. A four wire is the added neutral wire. So you will be using 2 hots, one neutral and one ground. Making it a 4 wire install. www.askmediy.com
Wow, great video.
You have a rare combination of knowledge and the ability to teach in a fun, easy to understand manner.
I wish I had more instructors like you back when I was in school.
Thank you so so much. You made my day.
I'll definitely have to agree. Great job sir. I didn't have to keep going back to relisten. Very easy to understand. Thanks for the help
Jb
.
You explanation of the new machines with their electronics needing separate 120 circuits was just what I needed to explain 4-wire. Thanks a lot.
Always my pleasure.
I think you are great man! Excellent video. You could be a teacher. You speak logically and clear and concise. Thank you for helping other people with your information.
Thank you so much.
Fantastic. Thank you so much. We were about to call an electrician and my man found your video and this was the exact video we needed. We now have a dryer outlet that works! Thank goodness!
I am not an electrician. I watched this over and over again. I got a hold of the same plug, and the same kind of tester, With the help of the folks at Home Depot, I got the 4-wire 220v (orange colored) romax and went to town. Because of this video, and this gentleman's ability to explain this thing, the project went off without a hitch. I listen to every word of advice, like make sure the wire casings are not touching the screws in the breaker etc. I took my time, constantly checkin my work along the way, and the project was completed in an hour and a half. I did have to go back and correct anything. The dryer runs perfect. Thanks for uploading this even though is was almost a year ago.
don let me startout by saying thank you, i installed a three wire 220 outlet for a mig welder , i followed your instructions to the letter and it worked out just great.
I love love love your instructional videos..I have used your knowledge to reconstruct, replace, rewire my old breaker box. I've spent many a nights listening and re-listening to your videos. My house is coming along..just a few more outlets to change out and then I'm done..THANK YOU!!!
Awesome. Thank you very much.
Excellent instructional video. First one I found that actually explains difference between 3 and 4 wire 220. Thank you!
+Ranger42 Thank you so much. I do try.
@@Askmediy Yes great video,answered exactly what i needed
Is that on a 2 pole gfi breaker as required by code for electric dryers?
Thanks for this video.
I just finished installing a 220V double pole 30amp breaker and 4-wire connection to my dryer. This was my first 220V wiring.
No fake news.
So cool to hear. Awesome job
Awesome video, great technical information flavored with a great personality. Used this information to wire a new dryer outlet and wired a new 30 amp breaker into a sub panel downstairs. Now if our dryer breaks down upstairs we have a backup. Thanks Dom. Keep em coming. My guess is your saving lives with this important info.
HaHa Great teacher......smoke fie or anything...big finally Great Thanks for all your great info and teaching... your a natural teacher. Thank you.
Good instructions. For some reason I thought it was more complicated but it's actually quite straightforward. 2 hot wires to the double breaker, neutral white wire to the neutral bus and the bare ground wire to the ground bus.
st8kout1 Yup, glad I could help out.
hey Dominic 7 years later and this video is still educating! Thanks man, you are a big help
And I’m even replying lol. Thank you so much. Glad it helped
"Dropped my little nut here.... well... not my LITTLE nut, but the nut (mumble mumble)... You get it right?"....... CLASSIC! You crack me up.
Gotta say. This is one of the best, if not the best instructional videos I have seen. Excellent. I don't know how you do it, but you have the ability to explain just enough why and how, without feeling dragged out. Prefect! I subscribed!
At 1:41 into this, I had my main question answered. At 2:06, any other mysteries were cleared up. I'm going to finish watching now. But, I'm already smarter and this is ridiculously straight forward and informative.
5:33, 7:53... more tips. I will use this information to install my generator hook up and interlock.
Nicely done, Dominick. Thanks.
I did not see you ground the box but you tested the box to ensure it was grounded. Good job!
Thank you for the tutorial. I'm helping a single mom who just got a stackable washer and dryer. The land fished the wires but not the plug or the breaker.
That was a lot of fun to watch. I love the "Bang!! haha" when you flipped the breaker. Cheers!
Thank you for your excellent video. Everything is clear, concise, and informative while also entertaining.
+CaffeineGeek Thank you very much. Always happy to help.
Good man Dominic! I was in an bad mood all day, you cheered me up.
thank you for the refresher i needed it dad passed and he was certified and i forgot this one how to do thanks again .
+Richard C Always my pleasure.
I want to thank u mr. Dominique u safe me a lot of money,did not kown nothing of electricity ,did the 220 three wire for my dryer the home I bot did not have 220 outlet had a gas one,older home.
i like your video, thank you so much for take time to teach us about it.....i just buy a house but the wiring its a big mess here...i will keep watching your videos to learn more...once again thank you...have a great day.
Very good information. Thank you for sharing. I just wanted to bring to your attention that you forgot to ground the receptacle metal box. When I did my circuit, I filed for the permit and the inspector failed it because of the missing ground of the receptacle metal box. All the best to you.
Thanks for the vid jst replaced a 3 wire with a 4 wire no problem new dryer ready thanks u explaind that neutral wire cleard things right up.....
By far the most simple and greatest Video on this subject I found! Thanks Sir !
Thank you very very much.
thank you for your time doing this videos you are a good teacher
Yeah i must say you have helped me on a major maintenance job and upped my knowledge level...keep teaching.
Thank you, watched a couple of your electrical videos. I have worked up the courage to run the 220V line for new stove and other electrical for kitchen remodel.
Good deal.
This guys is professional support this guy we need people like this very valuable
You are the best I've been trying to figure that out for a while and now I know I've gotten to install the breaker but no wires hooked up yet know I know how to hook them up and tested properly thank you very much
Excellent and Actionable content; very well presented and explained. I was actually looking for the installation of a 30a - 220-240v, Four, (4) Prong, Five, (5) Wire receptacle installation. As a 90% disabled veteran after 25 years of service; I am trying to help my wife retire a few years earlier by working from home and I have built a personal data processing center at home; and to follow the 80% load rule; I need to use two, (2) 30a -240v Metered PDU's, (Power Distribution Units), two run the computer system(s) I have already built and other sensitive electronics. I will look at more later on as I plan to scale; and would have to install another 100a sub box off the main. I ran secondary lines from the main lugs on top to a 12 x30 ft shop I had built next to my attached garage and ran the wire for 22, 20a, 120v outlets, which are piggy backed off 10, 30a, 240v outlets; my theory was if I didn't need the 240v outlets, I would just use the 120v outlets. Not sure it a clear would picture can be drawn; but I saved a lot of material by not having to run both orange and yellow cased wire the entire length of the shop; under each 240v box, I installed a double 120v outlet box about six, (6) inches below the 240v single outlet box incased in grey PVC pipe along the walls. I actually started into all this in January of 2017, but my systems were hacked in May of 2019 for two years of revenue, and I had to start from scratch a month later after slow formatting all the drives in 10 computer systems, and then had to reinstall all the operating systems which took a month; so, I studied up on running several layers of security, because there is no 100% security solution these days; you can only make it more difficult and time consuming, ( a sucking chest wound of their time searching virtual systems ), and hope they just move on to a slower moving target. I will look through your other videos to see if I can find any fun facts before I wire this up; thanks again for your time and effort in sharing this content.
Thank you very much. Good luck with all that.
Hello & thank you for helping those of us not as Learned in Electrical - I’m battery back up with a DIY generator , my inverter is EA SUNb5KVA 230v Pure Sine Wave Inverter Hybrid Charge Controller and I’m using a SIEMENS MTO100A Transformer 230v to 110v to 120v inlet H1 - H2 - H3 - H4 two U clips connect H1 & H3 together & H2 & H4 together for 220 - 230 - 240v outlet X2 - N/A - F - X1 there’s a fuse bracket to N/A & X1 - I’ve got 1 Phase 230v out of the Inverter and trying to get Dual Phase 110-120v outlet ? This is the way I’ve seen how to do it !
Great video! Couple questions though.
Since the ground bus bar and common bus bar are connected making them essentially the same, could you not connect both common and ground to the same bus bar? And, What is the difference between common and ground?
Thanks a lot for your videos! Say I have a 3 wire cord of the proper gauge coming from my wire and have a 4 wire receptacle. Can i simply not wire the neutral?
Whew! Looked around quite a bit before finding this! Thanks, very helpful! Only thing I wish your video included was a material list. I didn't realize breakers were brand specific or the wire type till I went to buy the stuff. But otherwise great video!
Great video. If you're interested. Can you do a video on how to diagnose non -working half hots and switches with unknown destination s.
I have three single pole switches in on box. 1st switch on far left goes to an unknown destination, 2nd switch goes to a fan light combo,(works fine). 3rd switch goes to a half hot that doesnt work. I have odd readings. On the red switched leg on both non-working switches, I'm showing 48V (switch is off) On the line black hot, I'm showing 77V and an additional 48V on the outlet screw where it connects to. 60htz on both black and red switched legs. ( Tested with wires disconnected from switch). It's a puzzle wrapped in a riddle. Even thought was trained in electrical work in the late 70's to mid 80's, I did mostly commercial work. I still have no problem installing just about anything electrical.( currently installing two sub panels and a bunch of new outlets in my garage.) However, I'm perplexed with this problem. There's more to the riddle if you're interested. If your wondering ,this was a brand new home in 05.
Love this Guy!!! Going to be installing a heater in the garage soon that is 220v. Now if Dom could show me how to easily run the wires "through the house" I'd be in heaven. (Someday there will be "wireless" electrical cords). Thanks for all the insight. Used your advice many times (hardwood floors, etc....)
You should always connect the wires at the breaker as the last step, just in case the main or individual breaker fails. I have seen brand new breakers fail right out of the box.
curious. If the brand new breaker fails, what's the difference if you connect at the beginning or the end?
@@twoweeledsoto6072 if you're trusting the breaker to keep the current off, well good luck. In fact, last week I was replacing a light switch for my GF. I usually just turn the light switch off and place some tape on it so no one can accidentally throw it on. Even with that, I still check for voltage at the bulb. I did my usual routine of placing some tape on the switch and found out there was still 50vac at the junction box!. Apparently, someone installed a "lighted" switch.
In the case of the new breaker, even though the switch was thrown to the "off" position, it was still allowing voltage through onto the wires. Yes, it was brand new out of the box.
@@2-old-Forthischet I may have misunderstood. The host connected the breaker first, then went on to connect the plug. The main was off the entire time. I thought you said the breaker should be installed last, implying to connect plug first, then the breaker last. My thought is, if the main is off (and operating correctly), you're not getting zapped either way. If the main is faulty (and power still going through), you're going to get zapped regardless of what order you install. Unless I'm missing something? I always use a tester, even after hitting the breakers😂 Always!
Thank you so much! Very well done! I appreciate the help! I feel confident in doing this now. All the details along the way are what make it especially great!
Thank you very much. It's nice to hear.
Thank you so much for sharing ive gained alot of confidence with electrical because of you and a few others. If I may I would suggest using a metal box because it Can be grounded to the circuit therefore tripping the breaker. They are also fire rated and burn alot slower than plastic boxes. I had some wiring burn up in our rental and luckily it was on a metal box and was an easy fix
Thank you. True true, but don't discount the fact that wires can't short against the plastic either. Food for thought. Yeah but I do prefer metal
Awesome video, I have a question, is it required according to NEC to use a pigtail to ground that metal box? or is that only needed when using conduit for the feeder wire?
6:15 Dominick would US electrical code allow you to pigtail more wire if you needed to shift breakers in box and some wires were too short? hope my english ok....
Yes your allowed to extend the wire with a Joint, but it doesn't look good in the Electrical Panel as a final result. Generally you'll install your breakers in the order you want them in to get the room you want, then start landing your wire as a final step of the project. Doing this not only allows you to provide a much neater panel, but also allows you to be safe and not worry about that wire becoming hot while you work on it.
thanks so much..... never done electrical before and needed to install a dryer plug in my house. thanks to your video I did it on my own
excellent videos, bro im ready to help my parents install a 220v outlet for my dads welding machine. your making me look good bro. keep on teaching god bless you
Thank you very much.
one of the best explain and entertaining videos keep doing videos like this dom amorosso thanks a lot!!!
+pacohouston2 Just one of them, and not the best? LOL... Yes always making them. Thank you very much.
What I usually say for people like you is a little man makes big jobs. Very clear and beneficial video of how to. Now, my question is, is it possible to extend the wire . My problem is that I have plan to remodel my kitchen and to move stove 3 - 4 feet further instead of running new wire from the box. Thanks for your help as always ,
Yes you can by using a junction box. However that box by code must be accessible somewhere. Perhaps via a cabinet or even in a basement ceiling.
+askmediy . Thank you very much for your help. I've received notification about your reply just on time. Once again , big thanks.
You are great Dom recently been doing some repairs in the house and your videos have been such a great help thank you so much
Loved this video. Exactly what I needed. Your sense of humor was an added bonus ("dropped my little nut"). Thanks!
LOL glad you liked it.
you did a great job explaining, easy to follow and you have over 1.2 million views as of today!
Thank you so so much
HAHAHAHHAHAHAHHA Not only are your HOW-TO videos very easy to comprehend....your personality makes them hysterical!!!! Thank You for all the extra abbed blurbs you threw in!! HAHAHHAHHAHA God Bless
Hi Dominic, great video, thanks! I have a question. I ran a new 4 wire 220 line and want to use the breaker from an existing (but no longer used 220 line. The appliance I'll be connecting to the circut calls for 220V @15 amps. The existing circuit breaker is rated at 50 amps. Is it OK to use it or should I buy a 15 amp breaker?
Blue Planet Photo Studio The amp rating is usually shared between the two poles of the breaker if its a 220/240V breaker, if you looked at a 50A breaker you would probably see each individual pole is marked 25A, (or it could have 50A written across both). meaning each 120V leg could support 25A draw.
It's perfectly fine to use a breaker that exceeds the energy requirements of the device you are running, this also means you can connect more 220V appliances in that same circuit and have enough power to power them with out tripping the breaker, just make sure you use cable rated for 50 amps.
You would only have problems if your breaker was rated for less then the power your device would be drawing, so say the breaker was rated at 15A and the device pulls 50A of power, the breaker would trip pretty much instantly because the device is pulling way more power then that breaker can give out.
If you had a 50A breaker, and you used wire rated for 15A, but exceeded 50A the wire would start to overheat and catch fire before the breaker would trip. The purpose of the breaker is to kill the power before the wire over heats, that's why it is super important to match the gauge of wire with the amperage rating of the breaker.
Great video. My issue is I have a 220v, one single hot 220v + one neutral + ground. Can I connect the 2 pong that should get 110v each and power them with one phase 220v? Not sure if I'm clear. Thanks a lot
thank that what I call a good teacher I been wacthing your videos from Connecticut
First, sorry for the delay. For some reason I'm not getting notified of incoming comments. Thank you very much from NY near Danbury CT
this video was very clear and helpful. thank you for taking the time to make it
question: can I use 8/3 or 4 w/ ground to hard wire from 50 amp exterior rv plugin to wire to house panel and add a 50 amp breaker for portable generator 15555 generac yes
You really need to hire an electrician to get this right. Getting this wrong could ruin your home.
Thanks for taking the time to do these videos. Your videos are some of the best out there plus a little humor makes it more interesting. I have certainly learned a lot. How important is it to have the ground upwards when installing the actual plug in box?
It's not at all.
No not at all. Place it anyway you like.
You explained that so people can understand.
Thanks
I have a problem I want to fix I had a professional install 30 amp receptacle 125/250V for my Honda eu3000is. he made a doble male cable ( suicide cord) the one on the generator in L5-30P Plug Locking Plug, 30 Amps, 125V. And apparently he didn't put a breaker for the generator he told us all we needed to do is turn of the main breaker but wen we tested it the generator only power on few thing on the house and it's not stable and there one air conditioner that it's power light apearse to be stable that wen all the breaker are on but when I only turn one breaker on I don't eve have unstable power but my breaker are receiving power but not my appliances
You'll need to get a pro in for this.
Thanks for the video, I found it helpful.
In Canada, we call that 4-wire cable a 3-wire. The red and black wires are for hot, the white is neutral and the ground wire we also call bonding wire. The bonding wire is not a current carrying conductor so we don't include it, even tho its there.
A 4-wire cable here would have a black, red, blue, and white wires along with the bare ground/bonding wire.
In the US, we call it 6/3 (#6 gauge and the number of wires not counting ground). I assume the 4-wire cable that you mentioned would be used for 3-phase appliances/machinery, correct?
Hello Dominick, I'm replacing my three prong electric dryer outlet with a four prong outlet. I tested the connection of the three prong outlet with my voltage meter. Which is set to only read 220 or 110 volts, when I place both in the hot sockets, both the 220 and 110 volts glow. But I notice that the 110 volt glows brighter than the 220.
The outlet is a 30 amp, 250 volt, three prong receptacle.
This is a tough one to understand 100% what you're asking. Why are you going to a 4 prong? To use a four prong you'll need for wires. Red, black, ground and a neutral
Thanks for the video, was a good confirmation as I installed two 50 amp receptacles beside my main service panel in the garage. If one abides by the electrical codes, doing their own work is massively cheaper than hiring out. I would recommend having a multimeter as a minimum on top of the test light as it can resistance check the connections. Ideally I would ring the circuit with a megger it at 600V+ (eventually I will get one as I am picky) prior to breaker turn on, but then again this is mickey mouse 120V/240V on dry land... not 450/600V with thousands of amps behind it on board a ship.
Hey Dom, your videos are very helpful and has taught me a lot! Thanks
Just saw this video (too tired from carrying water to completely resolve my air baseboard hot water issue this eve.). The way my father, an electrician, taught me to think of the 4 wires is that the red is incoming from the power co, the white one is the return to their generator, black is the ground to the power pole (protects elec. co.) and the naked is for your house ground (protects your house). A danger is finding the naked one tied to plumbing and not a ground rod per se.
Hello. So I'm replacing my really old oven 1995 ish with an old oven 2007 ish. my house was first occupied in 1996 so it was built the year before the 4-wire mandate. So I'm grandfathered in. The replacement oven has both 3 and 4 wire instructions in it. So naturally I have to do 3-wire installation. My question is, can i tap into the junction box and using 12/2 Romex, wire up to the replacement microwave, which needs a standard 15 amp service 120v ? I tested the wiring voltage on all 3 wires and it goes as such. Touching black & Red i get 249v, touching white and red I get 124.5v and touching white and black I get 124.5v. The original stove/microwave unit were both powered by this 3-wire 40amp circuit where the microwave is 120v and oven 240v. It was one big combo unit into this custom home. I realize that new codes call for 4-wire, but my device supports 3-wire so I'm going to forge ahead in that manner. But i would hate to have to run a new circuit to my replacement microwave. It takes a standard grounded plug. I'm guessing my 3-wire is Hot, Hot, Neutral, which means there really isn't a grounding wire for the Microwave. Is there any other way I could ground that Microwave? Like should I run a wire from the ground of the outlet outside to a grounded post stuck into the ground or something. Any suggestions?
Ground the 4x4 outlet metal box didn’t see that step, nice video great explanation.
Yeah I did, and thank you very much.
I have a question… if a device has a 4 wire tail, and you only have 3 wire outlets (220). Is it possible (on the device side) to join both the ground and neutral together and have the 2 hot separate to use a 3 prong plug 🔌 to connect to the 3 wire outlet? Thanks!
In my panel the ground bar and the neutral bar are located in each side. Each bar ,however , both have a mixture of ground wires and neutral wires, instead of all neutral on one side , and all ground in the other side. Will this type of configuration cause any problems for example popping noises in a television or static popping in surround sound speakers?
Or would this configuration cause any other problems, or is this a typically common thing electricians do in a newer home wiring setup? Thanks
We had a three prong stove put in with clickers for the gas elements. Wondered why the clickers worked sporadically. Finally got rid of that stove and bought a new one that had a 4 wire plug. Read the install sheet and it stated 3 wire plug will not operate the clickers correctly. Now we know. Putting in a 4 wire. Luckily the plug goes straight down to the basement so the wire run will be easy.
Dominic, thanks for the video. I've just moved to a new house. I can't install the washer until I install the dryer. I have a three prong receptacle that I want to retrofit to four. Am I to understand that I cannot use the existing wire, because I need to run a four wire all the way to the box with a new 220 breaker? In my situation, this would require too much destruction to be worth it. I may just put the old dryer back in. The womenfolk are getting tired of washing and drying clothes "old school" even if I comment on how fresh they are from the outside air, I get dirty looks.
Just tell the woman that a study conducted by me "Dominick" has proven that the fresh smell of clean hand washed clothes reduces the urge in men. Trust me it works. So what is your question?. Anyway, first I would remove the existing outlet just to make sure it's not a four wire in the box and also read up on your new dryer to see if you can wire it without the 4th wire. Your breaker should not have to be changed.
Learned a lot. Thank you so much
A most informative video. Thank you.
Seeing that the neutral wire on the 4 wire 220V outlet comes from the common neutral bus bar, could I convert a 3 wire 220V outlet into a 4 wire 220V outlet by "stealing" the neutral wire from a 20-amp 110V outlet (which will be decommissioned) next to it?
I understand that this is not the right way to do it, but feeding a 10-3 w/ gnd cable is not a possibility at the moment.
The 20-amp outlet is using 12awg wire, while the existing 3 wire 220V outlet is using 10awg wire. How harmful would it be to use the 12awg neutral cable from the 20-amp outlet for the 4-wire 30-amp outlet?
Don't even think about.. Sorry to say.
askmediy Any reason why?
Martin Charles For a four wire you'll need all four wires. Two hots, one neutral and one ground. No other choice.
Is that a NEMA 14-50 outlet used? Should be the same installation for a 220V electric car charger outlet in the garage since they use that type of 220v outlet or a 6-50 (no neutral) for either 30amp or 40amp charging with a 50amp circuit breaker.
Am I able to wire 220V in Parallel from my Dryer to my garage? Distance from Panel to the Dryer is 30 feet. Distance from Dryer to shop area of my garage is 30 feet.
Or can I make my own 220V "Extension Cord" until I get a more permanent fix?
THANKS GOOD JOB LEARNING A LOT FROM YOU
+NELSON ALVARADO Thank you. Always my pleasure.
Hi I have a question for you I have my water heater connection 240 v can I Install a second 240 v outlet for my dryer
NO, one 220 per circuit / breaker.
askmediy Called double tapping and bad stuff right ?
I can't find that tester on Amazon. Where did you buy it. I like it because it is simple to use.
I want to re-route the wiring from a 30 amp outlet to a 30 amp fused disconnect box for a mini split install. The wiring to the outlet is 4 wire with a bare wire ground. The disconnect box accepts line 1 and line 2 and a ground wire on the line side. Since the existing cable is 4 wire And I only need 2 hot and one ground wire I was going to just wire nut the white wire and leave it in the disconnect box. Is this proper?
Great video again! I usually copy what was already done in the box but when running a new outlet does it matter which hot goes to which side? Red or black on left or right side?
Thank you for this video and great explanation. If I am using a multimeter to check my voltage, does it matter which probes I use to check the hots/neutral/ground? Thanks again for the great video.
+Weakshot24 Not really.this is AC if it was DC than yes. But not all meters are the same.
+askmediy ok. Thank you and thanks for your timely response!
Very tricky! Why didn't you show the most difficult part of the installation - installing the receptacle into the box? I just tried to do one today, and it took me a long time to get it in. It shorted out a couple of times until I finally got it.
Thanks for making the video, it was very helpful!
Just wondering if the connection would be same for the kitchen electrical Stove?
Would really appreciate you help on this. Thank you
Running 220 to garage should have another ground rod at garage Correct?
Thanks for your great help
Great video. Any chance you could do a video on half hots with odd readings. I have a half hot that shows 48V on the switched red with the outlet off. And a black line showing 77V on the wire and an additional 48V on the terminal of the outlet. Also , a hot red in my e- box spliced to a dead black wire. Can't understand why the electrician is using the red as a source of power along side perfectly good black hots from the panel!! There so may different combination in this box of all this wrong, I had to make a diagram of what I'm seeing to help process the info. If you could help with a video I would be happy to help and share the entire story with you and your audience. My home was new when I bought it in 08. Built in 05 as a model. Thx.
Thank you. You'll need to trace out each wire to see they begin and end.
Thanks for sharing this video. Well made, everything explained clearly. Cheers!
I see you use a twisted pair wire for the dryer. Can you join a twisted pair to solid wire . I want to move the dryer to another location 10 ft away. I am thinking of using a junction box . The old twisted wires seam larger than the 10 -3 wires solid copper I bought. Can it be done
Hi Dom.i have a question? It is posible to change just the cable on a dryer that it cames with 4 prong. To a 3 prongs. Since the wall outlet is 220 volts.
Hi Dominick, great video. I purchased a used 240v/15amp countertop griddle for my foodtruck and I'm in the process of installing it but I notice that it has a regular 120v 3-pronged plug on it, which I don't think is original. Should I change it to a nemo 6 plug and bring the wire gauge to 12 to be safe or can I hook it up the way it is? Thanks, Michael.
How deep is that 4" square box? I have a large 50A recepticel that I'll be mounting similiary in a box. I'm concerned with the depth of the box. Using #6 AWG. THHN.
Great video! I am a bit befuddled as to why you didnt staple it, although. Maybe nail a 1 X 4 to the cinder block?
+gabelossus Didn't have any on me and I wanted to get the video done while I could. Not a good idea I know. However this was removed, it was only for the video.
What gauge wire are you using here?
Thanks for the lesson!
looks like 10 gauge..could be 8
I'm buying a tanning bed, used. The guy I'm buying it from paid for a transformer. So I'm bringing home the bed and the bed is hooked up to the transformer. I need to run a line to the breaker box from the transformer. The tanning bed needs a 220 volt plug and I only have standard outlets. The guy said he paid $150 for the transformer box so it shouldn't cost that much for an electrician to run a line. Do you know anything about this? I'm wanting to put the bed in a separate bedroom in my basement. The breaker box is in our laundry room. I'm trying to save money and want to know if it's going to be really expensive or if I should just buy a new bed that plugs into a standard 110. Any help appreciated. Thanks
I'd rather hustle a bit more at work - to pay this guy to do it. I'll stick to what I know and make money to pay this guy for his hustle.
I noticed that my box has white as well as ground wires attached to the right hand bus bar. It's been there for 27 years and was installed by a friend, haha. But the house never burned down. I have recently been learning house wiring, and have been able to do 120v plugs and switches. I'm about to install a 15 amp breaker for a stairwell light and I'm wondering if I can put the white and ground on the same bus bar. Thanks!
You should do it the right way and put the white wire on the neutral bus bar and the ground on the ground bus bar. The separate ground provides an alternate path, in case something goes wrong with the neutral. Better safe than sorry.
Thanks for the video sir! Not only very in depth, but fun and entertaining also.
very good Video, question if I have 208/120v panel in commercial building, can I install 240V. Dryer Machine?
please advise me on the proper way to run and install a 40a breaker? I assume to a MLC-8 light controller and what gague wire? About a 40' run. Thanks Your videos are entertaining and informative!
id like to watch a video where we can check continuity between legs inside a stove or water heater or a dryer thanks