That 3 amp fuse has been a bane with these 60's/70's Fords. My Mopar and Chevy Friends just don't understand that it's a specific size that no one has. I myself got to the point where I bought an 80 pack to have for when problems like this occur.
I went through this awhile back as well. If your printed circuit is in decent shape, I suggest removing the black bulb holders and use an emery board and q tip with alcohol to gently clean each and every contact point of the little copper tabs and the bulb itself. Sometimes the little copper tabs bend and don't make proper contact. I would even replace with new bulbs as long as you're in there. You don't want to go back in there next month cuz a bulb burned out. More often than not it's just a lose connection.
Great points! I was lucky, my circuit board was in excellent shape. I've seem some online that were just a powdery mess. But I agree, you only want to do this job once if you can help it!
My printed circuit is worn out and it turned to powder. About 5 years ago I pulled the dash apart to figure out why none of my lights or speedometer worked and it turned out it was a broken cable and a deteriorated printed circuit. I'm in the middle of swapping out the factory squares with a custom panel and gauge set because in the long run I believe it's more sturdy and cheaper doing it this way than getting all the new parts from the states. Thanks for the post!
Just went through the issue on my 79 f250,changed out the voltage regulator(looks like 9v batt top)on back of gauge cluster put dielectric grease on all bulb contacts and it fixed it.guy i work with used to work at ford dealer parts dept and he told me usually that volt regulator is usually the issue, got mine from lmc truck for $10.
Just check my 79 dash (low light situation) barely could see any dash lights at night. The bulbs were lit but not as bright as I thought they should be even with Rheostat on full. I put a Volt meter leads on the circuit board bulb leads and the max volts was 6.8V. I sprayed the headlight switch/rheostat with some electrical contact cleaner and spun the headlight knob back and forth while spraying. I retested the bulb volts and the new reading at max was 10.9V. The Bulbs were obviously way brighter.
This is great. Thanks for posting it. I just bought a '77 F-150. The dash lights don't come on. I bought some fuses and will try replacing them if necessary. If I have to check the bulbs I will just replace them all when I pull the dashboard unit. What do you recommend for cleaning the metal fuse contacts?
I have voltage at little fuse but no dash lights...how is the thing grounded?....I'll bet in my case it's burnt lights , also I think I was only able to reach the turn signal light ...going to do what the video suggested
Ok I've narrowed it down to the wiring between sending unit to dash . I've ran another line to the gauge and then from the gauge to the fuse box, turned on the switch and it registers , now do I have to disconnect anything in the wiring harness plug on the back of the dash panel ?
I have a 78 Ford F100 Lariat.My dashboard just stoped working.I believed I have a short on my cabling.And I think that is the reason why my alternator is not charging.If I disconnect the battery,the truck would shut off.I changed everything from coil,regulator,module.Maybe I can get an advise from you.Thanks nice video btw.
Bro i am dealing with the same sh1t. My alternator is not charging the battery and I bought a battery and alternator. Only for it to still not charge my battery. My dash lights went completely out and now i gotta fix it.
I have a 78 F250 that when the lights are on the both turn signal indicators are illuminated but both turn signals work, would appreciate any input on why.
So what was the fix for your issue? My dash lights don't come on with the headlights. They only come on with the turn signals. Left TS lights all the left indicator lights in the dash and the same with the right TS. Have not been able to figure it out.
Mine ultimately came down to just needing to clean the contact area where the bulb makes contact. This truck sat for 7 years and even when it was running, I'm not sure my dad drove it at night, so the bulbs went a LONG time without being used. Once I pulled the cluster out and made sure the contact area around the bulb was clean, my lights worked. By using the test light like you see me do in the video, that will verify that you indeed have current going to the contact area. If you don't have any current there, you will need to back trace to the fuse box to make sure you have it there. Good luck!
Well least I know how to remove the dash panel face . My problem is my 1976 the tail lamps , clearance, side marker , dash light all start to flicker n blink on n off like the breaker in the light switch is working for some reason . Poor ground or a short , I don't know yet .
"Breathing heavy as fk" great.... "Breathing heavy as fk" information ...."Breathing heavy as fk" in..."Breathing heavy as fk" Your......"GASPING FOR AIR " Video...
@@robertproctor4265 it’s been a while since I’ve fooled with mine so I can’t remember off the top of my head. But if you pull the headlight switch out, you can put a test light on each connection. I believe I cover how to replace the switch in the video. There’s a button you have to depress in order to remove the pull-handle. Then you can remove the small nut on the front and you can pull it out.
It's bee a minute but it could be the wire or even possibly the light switch itself. I believe there is a hot wire at the switch at all times and when you pull the switch, it sends power to the fuse and in-turn to the dash lights. And of course, make sure your fuses are good.
@@trig5010 Well, I would pull the switch out so you can get the test light on it and see what wire lights up when you pull the switch to turn the headlights on. Then see if you can trace that wire. Like I said, I did this four years ago so it's a little foggy but it could be something simple. Use that test light and see where it takes you. 👍
I think there are 6 total bulbs in the dash behind the speedometer. This doesn’t included the lights behind the heater controls in the middle of the dash. I’m not sure how many are behind there, probably two. Then there are two more lights under the dash that light up when you open the doors.
Well, not really sure if there is one thing that could cause "all' the gauges not to work. I do know from taking the gauge cluster out several times that if you don't see that speedo cable in all the way, the speedometer will either not work at all or jump around erratically. As far as the oil, temp, etc, those could all be individual issues with their own individual faults. For instance, my gas gauge, for some reason, doesn't go all the way to full. Only to about 3/4. Don't know why for the life of me. So, I keep track of mileage on my phone just to be safe. If you didn't want to fool with the old gauges, they sell some nice ones that you can mount under the dash for oil pressure, temperature and voltage.
@@TheKeymaster316 thanks but I have a 76 and want to keep it all original I dont kno if it's all the gauges bought the truck ran it for 15minutes didnt check speedo didnt drive it oil and temp and gas gauges I'm sure are no readings and I'm not getting any fuel to carburetor I've replaced sending unit in the tank and the fuel pump on the engine any thoughts?
@@jmessmer8865, yeah, as far as the gauges, the sending unit for each may be the issue and not the gauge itself. Haven't dabbled in the gauges though, so can't really help a whole lot with any degree of confidence. However, I am a bit of a pro at the fuel issue. Mine is a 77 with the 460. It's my dad's and it had sat for 7 years when I brought it home. Ethanol, if you didn't know, is the devil. I had to replace the entire fuel system from front to back and have the carb rebuilt. It's possible you have some dried up ethanol in the hard fuel lines or maybe even the filter if you have one inline. The inside of my tank looked like it was off the Titanic, I have never seen anything like it. And as far as fuel pumps, it took me THREE of them before I got one to work. If you want to test just the fuel pump and forward, get you a small gas can and run a rubber line from the gas can to the inlet of the fuel pump. If the truck gets fuel to the carb and starts like that, you more than likely have a blockage in the fuel lines. If it still doesn't start, you either have a blockage from the pump to the carb or the pump is no good. You can hand-pump the fuel pump with it off the truck to test it. Run a fuel line to a gas can and hand-pump it. It should spray gas quite a few feet within a couple of pumps if it's working properly. These Chinese pumps they sell these days are garbage!
My dash lights and turn signals don’t work hazards do. when I checked the fuse number 2 there’s no power to it at all but there’s power to all the other fuses anyone know why this could be?
That 3 amp fuse has been a bane with these 60's/70's Fords. My Mopar and Chevy Friends just don't understand that it's a specific size that no one has. I myself got to the point where I bought an 80 pack to have for when problems like this occur.
I went through this awhile back as well. If your printed circuit is in decent shape, I suggest removing the black bulb holders and use an emery board and q tip with alcohol to gently clean each and every contact point of the little copper tabs and the bulb itself. Sometimes the little copper tabs bend and don't make proper contact. I would even replace with new bulbs as long as you're in there. You don't want to go back in there next month cuz a bulb burned out. More often than not it's just a lose connection.
Great points! I was lucky, my circuit board was in excellent shape. I've seem some online that were just a powdery mess. But I agree, you only want to do this job once if you can help it!
My printed circuit is worn out and it turned to powder. About 5 years ago I pulled the dash apart to figure out why none of my lights or speedometer worked and it turned out it was a broken cable and a deteriorated printed circuit. I'm in the middle of swapping out the factory squares with a custom panel and gauge set because in the long run I believe it's more sturdy and cheaper doing it this way than getting all the new parts from the states. Thanks for the post!
Appreciate your thorough explanation super helpful.
Just went through the issue on my 79 f250,changed out the voltage regulator(looks like 9v batt top)on back of gauge cluster put dielectric grease on all bulb contacts and it fixed it.guy i work with used to work at ford dealer parts dept and he told me usually that volt regulator is usually the issue, got mine from lmc truck for $10.
Fred Rogers, glad to see you get it straight!
Just check my 79 dash (low light situation) barely could see any dash lights at night. The bulbs were lit but not as bright as I thought they should be even with Rheostat on full. I put a Volt meter leads on the circuit board bulb leads and the max volts was 6.8V. I sprayed the headlight switch/rheostat with some electrical contact cleaner and spun the headlight knob back and forth while spraying. I retested the bulb volts and the new reading at max was 10.9V. The Bulbs were obviously way brighter.
Nice! Contact cleaner is a lifesaver in those hard to reach areas. That’s awesome!
Great info thank you. I will need it later on my F-150
Glad I could help. 👍🏻
thanks for sharing, which fuses are used for the dashboard.
Thanks! You're vid definitely took some guesswork outta my task!
Tom
This is great. Thanks for posting it. I just bought a '77 F-150. The dash lights don't come on. I bought some fuses and will try replacing them if necessary. If I have to check the bulbs I will just replace them all when I pull the dashboard unit. What do you recommend for cleaning the metal fuse contacts?
If the fuse contacts are rusty or corroded, you can try to get a small piece of sandpaper in there to clean them off. Glad the video helped.
Mine crumbled as I took it apart. I've got many fortanantly
I have voltage at little fuse but no dash lights...how is the thing grounded?....I'll bet in my case it's burnt lights , also I think I was only able to reach the turn signal light ...going to do what the video suggested
Ok I've narrowed it down to the wiring between sending unit to dash . I've ran another line to the gauge and then from the gauge to the fuse box, turned on the switch and it registers , now do I have to disconnect anything in the wiring harness plug on the back of the dash panel ?
Where can i get fuses for a 1979 f100? been looking everywhere and can’t find them.
Amazon sells every kind of fuse you can think of, all the way from the blade fuses to the glass bus fuses. 👍🏻
I have a 78 Ford F100 Lariat.My dashboard just stoped working.I believed I have a short on my cabling.And I think that is the reason why my alternator is not charging.If I disconnect the battery,the truck would shut off.I changed everything from coil,regulator,module.Maybe I can get an advise from you.Thanks nice video btw.
Bro i am dealing with the same sh1t. My alternator is not charging the battery and I bought a battery and alternator. Only for it to still not charge my battery. My dash lights went completely out and now i gotta fix it.
I have a 78 F250 that when the lights are on the both turn signal indicators are illuminated but both turn signals work, would appreciate any input on why.
I dont have power on fuse I turn on lights but no power on cluster lights
I have a 79 bronco and the dash lights don't work..
What type bulbs go in them?
O'Reilly says there are about 5 different options
Not familiar with the Bronco’s. Do you have a bulb you could remove and take up there? They should be able to match it up.
194 bulbs.
So what was the fix for your issue? My dash lights don't come on with the headlights. They only come on with the turn signals. Left TS lights all the left indicator lights in the dash and the same with the right TS. Have not been able to figure it out.
Mine ultimately came down to just needing to clean the contact area where the bulb makes contact. This truck sat for 7 years and even when it was running, I'm not sure my dad drove it at night, so the bulbs went a LONG time without being used. Once I pulled the cluster out and made sure the contact area around the bulb was clean, my lights worked. By using the test light like you see me do in the video, that will verify that you indeed have current going to the contact area. If you don't have any current there, you will need to back trace to the fuse box to make sure you have it there. Good luck!
Well least I know how to remove the dash panel face . My problem is my 1976 the tail lamps , clearance, side marker , dash light all start to flicker n blink on n off like the breaker in the light switch is working for some reason . Poor ground or a short , I don't know yet .
Definitely sounds like you may have a loose wire somewhere. Use that test light and start tracking!
"Breathing heavy as fk" great.... "Breathing heavy as fk" information ...."Breathing heavy as fk" in..."Breathing heavy as fk"
Your......"GASPING FOR AIR " Video...
I don’t have power to the back of the fuse panel with the switch pulled on and key on, any help???
Is it the original headlight switch? If you pull the switch out, you should also be able to check power on it as well.
@@TheKeymaster316 could you tell me which location on the switch is power
@@robertproctor4265 it’s been a while since I’ve fooled with mine so I can’t remember off the top of my head. But if you pull the headlight switch out, you can put a test light on each connection. I believe I cover how to replace the switch in the video. There’s a button you have to depress in order to remove the pull-handle. Then you can remove the small nut on the front and you can pull it out.
I touched test light to dash 3amp fuse spot, pulled light switch ,no light on test light. Where is the problem ? Fuse panel or wiring somewhere ??
It's bee a minute but it could be the wire or even possibly the light switch itself. I believe there is a hot wire at the switch at all times and when you pull the switch, it sends power to the fuse and in-turn to the dash lights. And of course, make sure your fuses are good.
@@TheKeymaster316
The switch works the headlight s but I guess it could still be a bad switch, correct ?
@@trig5010 Well, I would pull the switch out so you can get the test light on it and see what wire lights up when you pull the switch to turn the headlights on. Then see if you can trace that wire. Like I said, I did this four years ago so it's a little foggy but it could be something simple. Use that test light and see where it takes you. 👍
@@TheKeymaster316 thanks. I just ran across the video, which was very helpful
@@trig5010 good luck and let us know how it turns out. Glad the video has been helpful.
How many led light bulbs would I need for the entire dash??
I think there are 6 total bulbs in the dash behind the speedometer. This doesn’t included the lights behind the heater controls in the middle of the dash. I’m not sure how many are behind there, probably two. Then there are two more lights under the dash that light up when you open the doors.
thekeymaster thank you so much! :)
Diagrama plis
What if all your dash lights and signal lights work but none of your gauges do?
Well, not really sure if there is one thing that could cause "all' the gauges not to work. I do know from taking the gauge cluster out several times that if you don't see that speedo cable in all the way, the speedometer will either not work at all or jump around erratically. As far as the oil, temp, etc, those could all be individual issues with their own individual faults. For instance, my gas gauge, for some reason, doesn't go all the way to full. Only to about 3/4. Don't know why for the life of me. So, I keep track of mileage on my phone just to be safe. If you didn't want to fool with the old gauges, they sell some nice ones that you can mount under the dash for oil pressure, temperature and voltage.
@@TheKeymaster316 thanks but I have a 76 and want to keep it all original I dont kno if it's all the gauges bought the truck ran it for 15minutes didnt check speedo didnt drive it oil and temp and gas gauges I'm sure are no readings and I'm not getting any fuel to carburetor I've replaced sending unit in the tank and the fuel pump on the engine any thoughts?
@@jmessmer8865, yeah, as far as the gauges, the sending unit for each may be the issue and not the gauge itself. Haven't dabbled in the gauges though, so can't really help a whole lot with any degree of confidence. However, I am a bit of a pro at the fuel issue. Mine is a 77 with the 460. It's my dad's and it had sat for 7 years when I brought it home. Ethanol, if you didn't know, is the devil. I had to replace the entire fuel system from front to back and have the carb rebuilt. It's possible you have some dried up ethanol in the hard fuel lines or maybe even the filter if you have one inline. The inside of my tank looked like it was off the Titanic, I have never seen anything like it. And as far as fuel pumps, it took me THREE of them before I got one to work. If you want to test just the fuel pump and forward, get you a small gas can and run a rubber line from the gas can to the inlet of the fuel pump. If the truck gets fuel to the carb and starts like that, you more than likely have a blockage in the fuel lines. If it still doesn't start, you either have a blockage from the pump to the carb or the pump is no good. You can hand-pump the fuel pump with it off the truck to test it. Run a fuel line to a gas can and hand-pump it. It should spray gas quite a few feet within a couple of pumps if it's working properly. These Chinese pumps they sell these days are garbage!
Thanks man
@@TheKeymaster316 I have a 390 FE in my truck
Can you help
My dash lights and turn signals don’t work hazards do. when I checked the fuse number 2 there’s no power to it at all but there’s power to all the other fuses anyone know why this could be?
Headlight switch, for the dash lights. The turn signals are on a different fuse so that will be separate troubleshooting.
did you ever find the problem? I am having the same issue..
first yankee i've ever heard say 'cut it on' LOL
Ain't no Yankees around here! 😂