This is actually a very high grade movement. I'm no pocket watch expert, but this is Patek/AP level craftsmanship. Most likely a bespoke piece given the lack of names on the dial.
Hi Stian, Thanks so much for this information! I really appreciate your input and all the help you've given me. In America we have a phrase, "He's a real Stand Up Guy" which is an informal way of saying 'An honest and straightforward man of impeccable character'. You sir, are the epitome of that phrase!! I can't begin to tell you how much your kindness and generosity mean to me.
Hey man, I acutally binge watched all of your videos, from the first one , where you started watch making, and it is really amazing how far you have come. Please continue to upload more videos. they are really amazing :)
I've really been enjoying your videos. I've been fumbling around in watchmaking for a while and still have almost no idea what I'm doing. Lol. I think my biggest issue is honestly just finding the right watches to work on. Ebay is daunting...
Yes, you are right. There have been a few misleading auctions that have drawn me in. Always look at the return policy for any of the more expensive items! Thanks so much for watching!
@@watchasilearn Thanks for that info, Mark. The really good Bergeons are just way too much mulah for my taste, as most Bergeon products are. Those Horotec oilers look much better than the no-name Chinese oilers and the price certainly is right. I appreciate you coming back with that. And, I look forward to your next project. Cheers
No, I sure don’t. I thought I might find a maker mark or something to help identify it as I disassembled it but there was nothing. All I was able to deduce is it’s from the 1880’s and most likely Swiss. Thanks for watching!!
I really enjoy your videos. I am also a new watchmaker and practicing on pocket watches and inexpensive wristwatches. Love it! Question: I can currently record disassembly while under my microscope, but I also want to shoot a close video when working on the bench. It appears you have a cam in front of you and another overhead. What cameras are you using for those great shots? I use the video to remember where all the parts go! 😂
Yes, that’s a wonderful idea and that’s what I do. I currently have a trinocular microscope which means it has a port for a camera so I can record everything the microscope sees while I’m working. The camera is the IMX337 industrial microscope sensor. I then also mounted my iPhone to one of the arms of the microscope so it shoots everything I see but not as close. I hope this helps with your setup. Thanks for watching and for the great comment!!
Great video Mark. When you pressed in the new jewel, how did you gauge the correct depth? I have the horia clone too, and I'm afraid of pressing jewel in too deep, beyond the lip. I've seen other jeweling sets that come with flat stumps that ultimately limit the downward travel of the jewel. But this clone set only has stumps with holes.... Would love to hear your tips. Thank you!
Hey Jimmy, thanks for watching and for the great question. This particular jewel was the "rub in" type. There is actually a ring around the bottom of the hole which prevents it from going all the way through. If you look closely in the video you can see it when I'm cleaning out the hole with pegwood before I seat the jewel. In an instance when there is no lip you can use the stumps that come with your set, just select a stump with a much smaller hole than the diameter of the jewel so the jewel cannot pass through the stump. That way it will stop when it hits the stump. Hope this helps.
I deleted my other comments below because an ugly, unproductive argument was developing and that's not fair to you. I defer to Kalle's explanation of these tool marks. The "X" over the pivot hole is from the making of the watch. Kalle at Chronoglide has a couple neat videos showing marks like this on a much older movement. The explanation begins about 9:49 mark: ua-cam.com/video/OQPsxkj_zPU/v-deo.html More info on hand fitting wheels and the use of the depthing tool to make those marks in older, and hand-made (or "bespoke") pieces: ua-cam.com/video/CjrhlAa8V8c/v-deo.html
It most definitely was not made by the makers of the watch. It was likely made by someone rebushing that bearing but it's honestly sacrilege to leave that kind of mark on a watch of this immense quality. Horrible.
@@rangerstl07 Sigh... The Dunning-Kruger effect is strong with this one... Before you know what you're talking about I'd suggest you be less bombastic. Do you really think the maker would finish the movement to this standard and leave those marks? Smh
@@rangerstl07 Yeah, as a certified watchmaker I think I know a thing or two about watches and the making of them. What is your qualification? Having watched a video about a completely different watch? This is not a hand made movement, it is an ebauche made by the likes of Frédéric Piguet, finished as a bespoke watch. If you think watching a video makes you know everything about watches you have a long way to go, buddy. Thinking the maker would leave depthing marks when finishing the movement to this level is so moronic it makes anyone with a modicum of actual knowledge cringe. Tone down your ignorant arrogance and you might be able to learn a thing or two. And any more barking from you will be met with silence.
I watched Kalle's Chronoglide stream today and he dealt with one of these press-fit cannon pinions by pushing out the pin with a Horia jeweling tool ua-cam.com/video/lnognVWd6fo/v-deo.html
I appreciate you failing on camera occasionally! The advice when starting out always seems to be that pocket watches are best to work on at first. But it turns out they're a total minefield.
Hi Michael, I always said when I started this channel that I would show it all, the good and the bad. I know I'm bound to make mistakes as I learn and I don't see any point covering them up. I figure, if I can learn from my mistakes then others can too. Thanks so much for watching and for the great comment!!
Ive come to the conclusion that a lot of past watchmakers were hacks. ive had to deal with some horrible past repairs, and owing to the patina on those repairs they happened a lifetime ago. I mostly work on pocket watches from the 1880's
You NEED a bergeon cannon pinion remover 😂. Watchmaking is such a great excuse for buying new tools, no matter the cost. Great video thanks.
Thanks for watching and for the Great comment. You’ve given me an idea for my next video!!
This is actually a very high grade movement. I'm no pocket watch expert, but this is Patek/AP level craftsmanship. Most likely a bespoke piece given the lack of names on the dial.
Hi Stian, Thanks so much for this information! I really appreciate your input and all the help you've given me.
In America we have a phrase, "He's a real Stand Up Guy" which is an informal way of saying 'An honest and straightforward man of impeccable character'. You sir, are the epitome of that phrase!! I can't begin to tell you how much your kindness and generosity mean to me.
Hey man, I acutally binge watched all of your videos, from the first one , where you started watch making, and it is really amazing how far you have come. Please continue to upload more videos. they are really amazing :)
Hey, thanks so much for watching and for the kind words. I've been vacationing recently but I have several more videos planned for when I return!!
Very nice one! Hope to see more of your videos
Thanks for watching and for the comment!
I've really been enjoying your videos. I've been fumbling around in watchmaking for a while and still have almost no idea what I'm doing. Lol. I think my biggest issue is honestly just finding the right watches to work on. Ebay is daunting...
Yes, you are right. There have been a few misleading auctions that have drawn me in. Always look at the return policy for any of the more expensive items! Thanks so much for watching!
Instead of fumbling around and wasting time why don't you go to school and learn and make a career out of it 🤷♂️ Or go take classes from AWCI
Great video
Thanks!
Watch is my dad my dad and im proud of him
Awww, thanks buddy! Your support is much appreciated!!
Can you tell which kind of oilers you use?
Hi Ray, thanks for the question. I use the Horotec Metal Oilers. I bought mine from Esslinger SKU:
42.249 for $13.99. Thanks for watching!!
@@watchasilearn
Thanks for that info, Mark. The really good Bergeons are just way too much mulah for my taste, as most Bergeon products are. Those Horotec oilers look much better than the no-name Chinese oilers and the price certainly is right.
I appreciate you coming back with that.
And, I look forward to your next project.
Cheers
Gorgeous movement. Do you know the name of the manufacturer? Thanks.
No, I sure don’t. I thought I might find a maker mark or something to help identify it as I disassembled it but there was nothing. All I was able to deduce is it’s from the 1880’s and most likely Swiss. Thanks for watching!!
I really enjoy your videos. I am also a new watchmaker and practicing on pocket watches and inexpensive wristwatches. Love it! Question: I can currently record disassembly while under my microscope, but I also want to shoot a close video when working on the bench. It appears you have a cam in front of you and another overhead. What cameras are you using for those great shots? I use the video to remember where all the parts go! 😂
Yes, that’s a wonderful idea and that’s what I do. I currently have a trinocular microscope which means it has a port for a camera so I can record everything the microscope sees while I’m working. The camera is the IMX337 industrial microscope sensor. I then also mounted my iPhone to one of the arms of the microscope so it shoots everything I see but not as close. I hope this helps with your setup. Thanks for watching and for the great comment!!
Oh, I also use the Sony A6000 and I just got the Canon G7X. Hope this helps
Great video Mark. When you pressed in the new jewel, how did you gauge the correct depth? I have the horia clone too, and I'm afraid of pressing jewel in too deep, beyond the lip. I've seen other jeweling sets that come with flat stumps that ultimately limit the downward travel of the jewel. But this clone set only has stumps with holes.... Would love to hear your tips. Thank you!
Hey Jimmy, thanks for watching and for the great question. This particular jewel was the "rub in" type. There is actually a ring around the bottom of the hole which prevents it from going all the way through. If you look closely in the video you can see it when I'm cleaning out the hole with pegwood before I seat the jewel.
In an instance when there is no lip you can use the stumps that come with your set, just select a stump with a much smaller hole than the diameter of the jewel so the jewel cannot pass through the stump. That way it will stop when it hits the stump. Hope this helps.
@@watchasilearn makes sense. Thanks Mark. Good save on the pinion.
Oh boy is that a plastic crystal or is it real glass .
So I'd a like to see u get it out snd wot with? U.k.
Watch as I learn*
I deleted my other comments below because an ugly, unproductive argument was developing and that's not fair to you. I defer to Kalle's explanation of these tool marks. The "X" over the pivot hole is from the making of the watch. Kalle at Chronoglide has a couple neat videos showing marks like this on a much older movement. The explanation begins about 9:49 mark:
ua-cam.com/video/OQPsxkj_zPU/v-deo.html
More info on hand fitting wheels and the use of the depthing tool to make those marks in older, and hand-made (or "bespoke") pieces:
ua-cam.com/video/CjrhlAa8V8c/v-deo.html
Wow! That's great information. I truly do learn something new everyday! Thanks so much for watching and for sharing that info!!
It most definitely was not made by the makers of the watch. It was likely made by someone rebushing that bearing but it's honestly sacrilege to leave that kind of mark on a watch of this immense quality. Horrible.
@@rangerstl07 Sigh... The Dunning-Kruger effect is strong with this one... Before you know what you're talking about I'd suggest you be less bombastic. Do you really think the maker would finish the movement to this standard and leave those marks? Smh
@@rangerstl07 Yeah, as a certified watchmaker I think I know a thing or two about watches and the making of them. What is your qualification? Having watched a video about a completely different watch? This is not a hand made movement, it is an ebauche made by the likes of Frédéric Piguet, finished as a bespoke watch. If you think watching a video makes you know everything about watches you have a long way to go, buddy. Thinking the maker would leave depthing marks when finishing the movement to this level is so moronic it makes anyone with a modicum of actual knowledge cringe. Tone down your ignorant arrogance and you might be able to learn a thing or two.
And any more barking from you will be met with silence.
I watched Kalle's Chronoglide stream today and he dealt with one of these press-fit cannon pinions by pushing out the pin with a Horia jeweling tool ua-cam.com/video/lnognVWd6fo/v-deo.html
Great Idea, I'll have to check it out. Thanks!!
Suffice to say you do not use force on a watch.
You said it!! Thanks for watching.
I appreciate you failing on camera occasionally! The advice when starting out always seems to be that pocket watches are best to work on at first. But it turns out they're a total minefield.
Hi Michael, I always said when I started this channel that I would show it all, the good and the bad. I know I'm bound to make mistakes as I learn and I don't see any point covering them up. I figure, if I can learn from my mistakes then others can too. Thanks so much for watching and for the great comment!!
Ive come to the conclusion that a lot of past watchmakers were hacks. ive had to deal with some horrible past repairs, and owing to the patina on those repairs they happened a lifetime ago. I mostly work on pocket watches from the 1880's
Thanks for watching! I really love working on old pocket watches!!