I agree, I just finally got my hands on a Tsumura 24” for my 661. Couldn’t find them anywhere for about 4 months there. That weight reduction over a couple hours makes a world of difference.
@@evergreenorganics 24 on 661??? Man run a 28 min on that saw, 24 is plenty for a 372 or 572 id say, especially ported my saws run 24 max on 70cc, bigger I'm going 28 on up
I have a 36" Tsumura bar on my modded G660 and I've put it through hell over the last couple years. A few times I was sure it was bent or twisted. (I clean up a lot of big cottonwood blowdowns and they can be a bit unpredictable) It's still dead straight, shows virtually no wear and seems stronger than an all steel bar. They must be made of an exceptions steel. Thinking about a 28 for lighter work because the light 36 still doesn't balance well, being just a bit tip heavy (but you don't notice it once in the wood). Good video, thanks!
My dealer can't seem to find one for me. I ordered my MS 500i Stihl saw with a 36 light, and all I could walk out with was a powerhead to be used with my older bars. This was well over a month ago. I called yesterday and they called Stihl, who said they don't know when they can get my bar to me. Too far backordered to make any promises. So I continue to cut with heavy bars and go home worn out as I'm not getting any younger. I'm thinking about ordering another brand just to carry me over. If you're young, take it easy like an old dude so that you don't soon feel like one quite so early in life. Stretch before work and be nice to your back. There are too many decades of reward or punishment riding on it. Trust me.
I'll add the Husqvarna Techlite 28" brand new bar at 2lb 10.5 oz in the husqvarna D009 large mount. What mount are these bars (assuming Stihl 3003)? I have been running a 20" Stihl Lightweight bar for 5 or 6 tanks of fuel and the last time I inspected it one rail had bowed out a bit and I had to compress it back into shape in my vise, love the bar, not sure of the longevity.
Does anyone still run non sproket tip bars. I got one year fulltime on clearfelling in NZ using a Tsumara hard nose bar with Oregon chain. THE windsor speed tip was also good if you didnt grease the tip. Just seemed to attract the sand if you did grease it.
I say Hooskwarna. I may be wrong but it damn sure rolls off the tongue better than Huskavarna. Yank since birth, Floridiot since the turn of the century.
Not to talk about how tsumura always becomes tsumara somehowlike just say the second u how you say the first one. Of cource that wont make it sound japanese. I try to bring out my inner japanese warlord and always shout everythin that is japanes
The Swedish pronunciation of Husqvarna is "Hoosk-varnAH", I never understood why people have to add the "ah" sound in the middle, at least "Huskvarna" would be closer. And the people that say "Still" for Stihl. It is pronounced like the metal. Kills me.
Since this guy couldn't be bothered to do the obvious (but had oodles of time to put merchandise links in the description) here are the 28" bar weights summarized: Husqvarna Standard: 3 lbs 12.25 oz Stihl Rollomatic ES: 3lbs 14.25 oz Windsor Speedtip: 3bs 13.75 oz Stihl ES Lightbar: 2lbs 11.50 oz Oregon Powercut: 2lbs 11.75 oz Sugihara: 3lbs 2 oz Tsumara: 2lbs 14.25 oz Cannon: 3lbs .75 oz
Teheran two things wrong with light bars is they will bend and abrade out much easier than solid steel bars. I try to run Stihl Rollamatic E bars on most of my saws. I also run a lot of Oregon Power Cut bars. Both of these bars are solid steel bars. If you are always cutting in an anti Celtic environment where bars don’t get pinched and there is no dirt or sand around then laminated bars are for you but if you are cutting where bars can get pinched by big lumber and there is lots of sand around then laminated bars are not for you. To me, bars and chains are disposable items. I buy them to last and laminated bars do not last as long as solid steel bars. I also like Stihl RS or Oregon LGX type chains. I am 76 but I am not a weenie.
Just a suggestion. Turn the bars horizontally with the lightest bar closest to the camera and the heaviest bar farthest away. Write the weight on a yellow sticky note with a black marker. Then it's easy to see weights and names all at one time.
Wish i was smart enough to use topology optimization software to design a sketonized titanium bar. Anyone unfamiliar, do yourself a favor and look it up. Between cost, weight and cool factor, someone has to do this. Where my CAD guys at?
You can’t go wrong with the Stihl light. It’s durable, has good paint, looks good, is strong, very reasonably priced. Second pick is the Oregon reduced weight. Cannon is third solely because of the price tag. If the cannon was in the $160 price range with the Oregon and Stihl, it would be no questions asked.
I’ll be doing a video on each individual bar in time. I need to mix up my content but also put a lot of miles on the bars to get a real feel for them. I have so many things under testing. All the stuff piles up!
Do you have a recommendation to pair a 20" bar to my 462CM? I have a 32" ES light bar, and a rollomatic 25", but I'm looking for a shorter lightweight bar. I looked on the Oregon site, but it didn't look like they recommended a bar for the size of the 462 as far as cc/ displacement. I'm sure they would work fine, but didn't know if the power would be a potential safety issue? Thanks for the videos.
Suigihara then Tsumura in my oppinion are the best longetivity wise but Cannon,Stihl,and Oregon are good too you really cant go wrong with either but for the money im sticking with Suigi,or Tsumura
I called my local stihl dealership said ES LIght is on back order no when to tell when they will be in stock. Glad you were able to get your hands on one great video thanks for the post
Hey man, kind of random but how's that C300 running? I'm trying to keep mine goin strong, I was wondering if you ever walnut blasted/carbon cleaned it or anything.....It's direct injection so it seems like it would need it at some point, but I also heard it's not as much intake buildup as VWs or Bimmers.
Everything is tip top! Over 120k miles. Have done the 11th oil change. Drive it all the time and I’m not easy on it. It’s pushed to the limit very often.
@@TheDurbinCompound Yeah, I've heard since it's a direct injection engine, the intake valves get gunked up to the point of engine failure eventually or loss of power at the least from carbon buildup so you can a do walnut blasting for it every 100K miles or so. But i've also heard that mercedes DI system is a lot better than others in that regard, so if you've gone 120K miles without a problem, maybe it's more of a non-issue. Makes me feel better at least, I'm at 72K.
I have all these bars in one size or another. Except the Cannon. The Tsmaura 4 rivet tips do not last with pro use. The Sugi bar might be the best steel. But they are heavier than other light weight s. The Oregon bars work well but seem too floppy in 32 and 36in lengths. At this time my favorite ones are the Stihl light weight ones. Don't bend one though...
Do you grease your sprocket regularly? Those tsumuras have proven reliable for decades now. If youre torching them you either aren't practicing preventive maintenance or you should be running a hard tip.
From what I've heard tsumuras four rivet tips of the past were not meant for pro use, they had six rivet tips for that. Apparently they've changed to all 4 rivet tips now tho, stating that the new 4 rivet tips allow for better larger bearings. I've no experience with the new ones though, so don't really know.
The tsumura and cannon are the strongest, and best bang for your buck. Coming from a production faller.
I'd think it'd be feller. Which is also funnier
I agree, I just finally got my hands on a Tsumura 24” for my 661. Couldn’t find them anywhere for about 4 months there. That weight reduction over a couple hours makes a world of difference.
I run tsumura aswell!!!! Haven't ran a cannon yet
@@evergreenorganics 24 on 661??? Man run a 28 min on that saw, 24 is plenty for a 372 or 572 id say, especially ported my saws run 24 max on 70cc, bigger I'm going 28 on up
@@jacobgomez2682 I’ve got several length bars for my 661, 24 is the shortest one I run on it but I’ve got up to 36.
I have a 36" Tsumura bar on my modded G660 and I've put it through hell over the last couple years. A few times I was sure it was bent or twisted. (I clean up a lot of big cottonwood blowdowns and they can be a bit unpredictable) It's still dead straight, shows virtually no wear and seems stronger than an all steel bar. They must be made of an exceptions steel. Thinking about a 28 for lighter work because the light 36 still doesn't balance well, being just a bit tip heavy (but you don't notice it once in the wood). Good video, thanks!
You forgot the husqvarna x- tough light bar 😢
You’re the only dude who just cuts to the chase and weighs the bars …..and actually brought all of them out of the same length. Thanks
Expensive video hahaha
@@TheDurbinCompound no doubt lol
I love my Forester platinum bars
I run a 24" on my 372
And I run Archer brand bars on other saws
It is pretty nice that you can walk in to a Stihl dealer and get a nice light weight bar now.
And walk out with a light weight wallet......and a light weight bar
My dealer can't seem to find one for me. I ordered my MS 500i Stihl saw with a 36 light, and all I could walk out with was a powerhead to be used with my older bars. This was well over a month ago. I called yesterday and they called Stihl, who said they don't know when they can get my bar to me. Too far backordered to make any promises. So I continue to cut with heavy bars and go home worn out as I'm not getting any younger. I'm thinking about ordering another brand just to carry me over. If you're young, take it easy like an old dude so that you don't soon feel like one quite so early in life. Stretch before work and be nice to your back. There are too many decades of reward or punishment riding on it. Trust me.
@@happycamper6352 I got a tsumara for $73 on ebay. It is out of stock now... There may be other options on ebay.
Good Video! The Oregon and Cannon looks the same. I really tough it would weight the same.
I have been wanting to try an Oregon power cut bar in 28” but they are hard to find since they stopped production on them!
I'll add the Husqvarna Techlite 28" brand new bar at 2lb 10.5 oz in the husqvarna D009 large mount. What mount are these bars (assuming Stihl 3003)? I have been running a 20" Stihl Lightweight bar for 5 or 6 tanks of fuel and the last time I inspected it one rail had bowed out a bit and I had to compress it back into shape in my vise, love the bar, not sure of the longevity.
The Sthil ES Light is a nice bar got one on my 441C and it balances the saw very nicely
Great video
Japanese steel 🏅🏅🏅
Anyone have a link to where I can find a Tusumara LW 25" bar for a Stihl MS 462 RCM please? Hard to find.
Can the tip on the Sugi bar be greased ?
Yes
I know this Is an older video but I have been seeing a lot of these raptor bars showing up. Are they any good?
I haven’t played with them. I have seen them a lot though too
I haven’t played with them. I have seen them a lot though too
Wow😂 screwed that up
Does Windsor still exist and make speed tip bars?
Does anyone still run non sproket tip bars. I got one year fulltime on clearfelling in NZ using a Tsumara hard nose bar with Oregon chain. THE windsor speed tip was also good if you didnt grease the tip. Just seemed to attract the sand if you did grease it.
I use sprocket tipped bars in clean wood, Duromatic for dirty business.
Husqvarna tech lite?
1000$ on that table
Yep yep!
I dont think a pound an a half is really gonna bother me too much for the price 😅
Як можна замовити цей товар
most of the 'pros' running 28 or 32 light bars and skip chain. less cutters to sharpen.
The Stihl light bars are too flexible. It often starts fluttering when back chaining. I prefer the Tsumura or Sugihara, haven't tried the others
I've been in the "chainsaw industry" for many years now and not heard the term "back chaining" what does that mean ?
@@troopygino cutting with the top of the bar
@@colinmckim4515 I understand you now mate okie
Christ, my dying wish is for Yanks to be able to pronounce Husqvarna. One day.
I say Hooskwarna. I may be wrong but it damn sure rolls off the tongue better than Huskavarna.
Yank since birth, Floridiot since the turn of the century.
@@RoosterCogburn you’re killing me Rooster!! 👍🇦🇺
Not to talk about how tsumura always becomes tsumara somehowlike just say the second u how you say the first one. Of cource that wont make it sound japanese. I try to bring out my inner japanese warlord and always shout everythin that is japanes
The Swedish pronunciation of Husqvarna is "Hoosk-varnAH", I never understood why people have to add the "ah" sound in the middle, at least "Huskvarna" would be closer. And the people that say "Still" for Stihl. It is pronounced like the metal. Kills me.
Qart pich
Since this guy couldn't be bothered to do the obvious (but had oodles of time to put merchandise links in the description) here are the 28" bar weights summarized:
Husqvarna Standard: 3 lbs 12.25 oz
Stihl Rollomatic ES: 3lbs 14.25 oz
Windsor Speedtip: 3bs 13.75 oz
Stihl ES Lightbar: 2lbs 11.50 oz
Oregon Powercut: 2lbs 11.75 oz
Sugihara: 3lbs 2 oz
Tsumara: 2lbs 14.25 oz
Cannon: 3lbs .75 oz
Tsumura is best value for money and only sugihara is just a bit better.
Teheran two things wrong with light bars is they will bend and abrade out much easier than solid steel bars. I try to run Stihl Rollamatic E bars on most of my saws. I also run a lot of Oregon Power Cut bars. Both of these bars are solid steel bars. If you are always cutting in an anti Celtic environment where bars don’t get pinched and there is no dirt or sand around then laminated bars are for you but if you are cutting where bars can get pinched by big lumber and there is lots of sand around then laminated bars are not for you. To me, bars and chains are disposable items. I buy them to last and laminated bars do not last as long as solid steel bars. I also like Stihl RS or Oregon LGX type chains. I am 76 but I am not a weenie.
LOL' I'm 61 and going on weenie. Still running my saws 461- 25 is about all I need anymore//
Just a suggestion. Turn the bars horizontally with the lightest bar closest to the camera and the heaviest bar farthest away. Write the weight on a yellow sticky note with a black marker. Then it's easy to see weights and names all at one time.
Ill echo that
The steel in the Tsumura bars is amazing.
Couldn’t agree more. I’ve got a 24” lightweight that I’ve put through the ringer and she’s holding strong.
Great Video!!!! thank you for taking the time to help us decide!! Have you looked into the Husqvarna light weight bar yet??
Wish i was smart enough to use topology optimization software to design a sketonized titanium bar. Anyone unfamiliar, do yourself a favor and look it up. Between cost, weight and cool factor, someone has to do this. Where my CAD guys at?
I run a Stihl ms500i with a Stihl light 32’’ bar very nice bar👍
Nice video, enjoyed the series! I'm trying to decide on which 28" light bar to get? Which one did you like overall the best? Happy Thanksgiving!
You can’t go wrong with the Stihl light. It’s durable, has good paint, looks good, is strong, very reasonably priced. Second pick is the Oregon reduced weight. Cannon is third solely because of the price tag. If the cannon was in the $160 price range with the Oregon and Stihl, it would be no questions asked.
I’ll be doing a video on each individual bar in time. I need to mix up my content but also put a lot of miles on the bars to get a real feel for them. I have so many things under testing. All the stuff piles up!
@@TheDurbinCompound thanks for the info, I appreciate it! Enjoy the rest of your Turkey day!
@@CFairNHlook at walkers light bars
I like your new video you did a really good jop today have a good thanksgiving too you guys buddy
Do you have a recommendation to pair a 20" bar to my 462CM? I have a 32" ES light bar, and a rollomatic 25", but I'm looking for a shorter lightweight bar. I looked on the Oregon site, but it didn't look like they recommended a bar for the size of the 462 as far as cc/ displacement. I'm sure they would work fine, but didn't know if the power would be a potential safety issue? Thanks for the videos.
Get a 20” and get after it! It will be a strong saw!
Thanks for the informative video!
THANK YOU!! I NEEDED THIS!
Thanks
Awesome info!
Suigihara then Tsumura in my oppinion are the best longetivity wise but Cannon,Stihl,and Oregon are good too you really cant go wrong with either but for the money im sticking with Suigi,or Tsumura
Hey mate, we can provide winter-resistant gloves with touchscreen fingers and splashproof for free, we hope to get your test and feedback. Thank you.
I called my local stihl dealership said ES LIght is on back order no when to tell when they will be in stock. Glad you were able to get your hands on one great video thanks for the post
The forester platinum bar weighs as much as the ultra light cannon??
Dang I was hoping you were going to test the stihl light 04
Hey man, kind of random but how's that C300 running? I'm trying to keep mine goin strong, I was wondering if you ever walnut blasted/carbon cleaned it or anything.....It's direct injection so it seems like it would need it at some point, but I also heard it's not as much intake buildup as VWs or Bimmers.
Everything is tip top! Over 120k miles. Have done the 11th oil change. Drive it all the time and I’m not easy on it. It’s pushed to the limit very often.
@@TheDurbinCompound That's awesome bro, so glad and relieved to hear that. So you never did the carbon cleaning?
Carbon cleaning?
@@TheDurbinCompound Yeah, I've heard since it's a direct injection engine, the intake valves get gunked up to the point of engine failure eventually or loss of power at the least from carbon buildup so you can a do walnut blasting for it every 100K miles or so. But i've also heard that mercedes DI system is a lot better than others in that regard, so if you've gone 120K miles without a problem, maybe it's more of a non-issue. Makes me feel better at least, I'm at 72K.
Yeah I honestly have never heard of the issue. I only run premium 93 octane and have never run any additive and I’ve been just fine.
No question. Cannon wins.
He for got panther bars
Better keep that Windsor nice, don't think they make it anymore.
They certainly do not
So which 28 inch bar should i get for my stihl 441. The Stihl ES Lite or the oregon power cut reduced weight bar.
Stihl ES light
@@TheDurbinCompound okay thnx
I have all these bars in one size or another. Except the Cannon. The Tsmaura 4 rivet tips do not last with pro use. The Sugi bar might be the best steel. But they are heavier than other light weight s. The Oregon bars work well but seem too floppy in 32 and 36in lengths. At this time my favorite ones are the Stihl light weight ones. Don't bend one though...
Do you grease your sprocket regularly? Those tsumuras have proven reliable for decades now. If youre torching them you either aren't practicing preventive maintenance or you should be running a hard tip.
@@notavailable7379
Do you have a link to the grease gun and grease you are using for your sprocket ? Thanks.
@@centermass3454 Oregon chainsaw bar grease gun. Should be able to google it they are clear plastic with blue grease
From what I've heard tsumuras four rivet tips of the past were not meant for pro use, they had six rivet tips for that. Apparently they've changed to all 4 rivet tips now tho, stating that the new 4 rivet tips allow for better larger bearings. I've no experience with the new ones though, so don't really know.