What's Wrong With the Ruckus...
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- Опубліковано 5 лют 2017
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The Ruckus keeps dying. Got a multimeter in and started testing things. It's definitely not charging, but why?
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I did a quick search for you for a Ruckus 150 swap charging and the first article said...
"Expect charging issues with 8-pole Stators
GY6 engines usually come with 6-pole or 8-pole stators which typically don’t output enough power at idle to charge the battery while running the headlights. This is a minor inconvenience most of the time, but can lead to a dead battery and huge headaches under the wrong conditions. The simple answer to this is to upgrade to an 11-pole stator, but this isn’t totally necessary.A side note, if you have severe battery charging issues (while riding), this isn’t normal and there is a fault in the system. Contact the maker of your harness and try to get an answer as to what’s going on."
I installed an 11-pole stator while we were doing the build.
"Thanks for trying to help me bro, but I actually already installed an 11-pole stator while we were doing the build"
Motonosity Are you sure your stator isn't fucked 😂
Todd Abbott
Smokey mountain crawl 2017....don't be late
if the voltage drops when the bike is running it means the alternator is not working. You should have the opposite.
Emilien Gosselin Correct
CN_Abdiel my bike has an alternator so does bandits and quite a few other bikes
should of said it an st1100 pan European with upgraded alternator
Emilien Gosselin stator not alternator
CN_Abdiel A stator is *part* of an alternator, generator, electric motor, or magneto. The part that doesn't move - it's STATionary. The other major part is the rotor - the moving part, generally combined on small engines with the flywheel.
The only real difference is between an alternator, producing AC current, which has been standard on pretty much every vehicle since the '60s, & a generator which produces DC current. Magnetos are weird & irrelevant here.
The reason people tend to refer to each part separately on bikes, etc. is due to the different construction: bikes are essentially the only application where they *can* be replaced or serviced separately without special handling.
It's still an alternator, though.
You should have 14v or more while running. Your stator is not working.
Caswell Racing 76 Or the rectifier. Possibly the regulator. Might even be a damaged battery. It *was* mis-wired the first time he tried to start it.
honda's voltage regulator are very often the problem. google it up, their regulator seems to fail in atv and motorcycle a lot
Motonosity. Have you ever hooked uo the battery backwards. If you do there is a internal 1 way diode in the rectifier that will break if you do. If that breaks then it will prevent it from charging.
Caswell Racing 76 can you replace the diode?
@@mariogodreaudraft It's not made by honda.
I had a rectifier problem on my last bike and learnt a lot. First you want about 14 volts on the battery when your rpm's are high [not idle, you want about 5k+ rpm]. This means it's charging and you don't have a problem with your stator or RR. Next you'll test your RR, if your volt meter has a diode tester stick the positive end on the positive wire and touch each yellow[or white] wire with the negative. They should all read the same, the value doesn't matter as long as they are somewhat close. Next swap it around, so negative on negative wire and touch each yellow or white wire with the positive. Again all numbers should be close to each other. Your negative and positive will have different values but it's the 3 yellow wires that you're wanting to have the same value. If they aren't you have a bad rectifier. There are a few good videos out there to teach you how to diagnose charging issues. My bet is you have a bad RR or you wired it wrong. I was told by my Mechanic that a stator almost never fails without the regulator rectifier going first.
BMX Backflip coming soon!!
VroomVroomDana love your videos dana
lol yep first trick I'm learning!
Motonosity love ur vids to motonosity
hell yeah, I literally just thought "oh, it's motonosity time!" and you just happened to upload it right as I loaded up 😍
Love the way you do your transitions, keep up the good work 👍
a car build series would be so sick
You still need to turn that idle down..damn thing tried to take off with the choke on lol
Lmao, Abby and cake. "for two, OKAY"
Y'all are great, stoked for you two to be new parents!
I didn't even know about your love for OnePlus but now that i do, you have moved up in my list of favorite people.
You know what would make the buffalo cauliflower taste even better? If it was made with chicken ;-)
28 days of uploading! You legend, you earned a day off, and don't have to apologise to anyone for it!
Thanks for your efforts BK, it's been awesome to see your material.
Enough people have commented already, but you should have the Ruckus sorted with a stator
Appreciate the merch bro, much love from Australia
There is two separate stators a/c and d/c I have had the same issue in the past. What color is the plug of the stator? White or green?
The next build serie should be a custom bobber
while your engine is on.remove the negative side of the battery. if the engine dies,then you have an electrical issue with the bike
I really like the flip transitions.
Don't know if you have tried this or not but unhook your ground while it is running and if it dies you have a charging issue if not it's a battery issue. It looks like you may have a dead sale in the battery if that's the case the battery will charge and show charge but once you put a drain on it it will quickly lose voltage
start it up and then disconect the battery if it shuts off then its just running off the battery and the stator is either bad or not hooked up right
love the cake adventures!!
I am currently doing an apprenticeship at Audi to become a vehicle mechatronic, so take my advice with a grain of salt as I am not as experienced as a lot of other people out there, but my suggestion is that there is some electrical device pulling a current while the ruckus is off, this propably drained the battery so many times which is why it doesn't charge properly and loses voltage as quickly as it does with just the ignition on. To find out if this is the case, you have to measure the current flowing from the battery when it's off, which you might be able to do with your multimeter, but most likely it won't be able to as those things usually can only measure a very small current. You should propably take it to a shop, they usually have the right equipment, measuring the current there should only take 2-3 minutes.
I had a similar problem with my YZF600r. In my case I only had to replace the voltage regulator but not the stater. I ordered both anyway just to see if both had a problem
I had something similar with my first Road bike (zxr400) same issues and it was the rectifier not putting enough voltage out to charge the battery. It withe start up fine, leave it for 10 minutes and it would start up fine etc. but ifI went for a long ride the battery would go flat due to lights being on constantly. Fortunately I could bump start mine!
The exact combo I run is scooter works stator: 0900-1077 and scooter works rectifier regulator: 0900-1008. I hope this helps. The charging system can be a big headache. What GY6 harness are you running?
ATR
Man, I know you just built the Ruckus and it's oh so dope, but I would love to see a custom Grom. I love those little bikes!
@Motonosity My 150 gy6 motor came with a 6 pole stator but had a 8 pole flywheel attached so it didn't charge the battery. I replaced the stator with a 8 pole one and fixed the charging problem and motor ran smoother. You will need a flywheel puller to get the flywheel to replace the stator. Also be very careful with the woodruff key.
in my experience with bikes problems like that usually turned out to be a defective or broken regulator rectifier
@motonosity You have to change the flywheel To 11 pole like the stator and have to change too the regulator to 11 pole
Putting in my vote to see you on the r1 tomorrow
what wattage headlight bulbs are you running? try testing the voltage with the headlights unplugged and see if there is any change. swap out the rectifier first since its easy to do. you'll need some type of puller to replace the stator.
the ruck shop gy6 wire harness are know to have a lot of issues. they run way to many grounds that are not needed. and most have issues with the state wires causing it not to charge the battery
Thanks for making me re live the Superbowl. I live in Atl. and have been trying to put it behind me...LOL
Had the same problem on my bike I fitted a higher Ah battery and it worked perfect after that
if you measure the resistance on the stator you can tell if the stator is good and you can look up what numbers it is supposed to be at if it is good when the motor is not running.
I wanna see you ride the R3. You know, the one you're buying for the next build.
You have to match the stator with the correct rectifier
stator is just like a altornator, so it needs a power to excite it to produce power there are a few diagrams you can find on line depending on if it is a single phase or 3 phase stator.
apart from the rukus would you recommend another scooter that would be cool to do a build on?
I had to run a heavy ground from the battery to the starter mount. I burned up the ground in my stator. if you see melted plastic on the stator wire... it's a grounding issue. I have the same gy6.
When r you going to put the new camshaft
Id look at the rectifier/regulator. Can you detach the battery while the thing is running? See if it keeps running?
Try changing the regulator rectifier and see if that helps if not the stator is on the way out
If you still have problems after switching stator/rectifier you may have a current draw that the battery can't handle try using led headlights
do a vlog with the CRF i havent seen one in long time pls
If yo have the lights wired to the ignition switch so that they come on with the key the lights may be using to much power for the stator to ALSO charge the battery.
You can test the stator and rectifier at the connectors without taking anything apart. Stator outputs AC and rectifier converts it to DC. Start testing at the stator and move your way down.
Can you swap the battery with one of the other bikes? if it was wired backwards to start you may have damaged it somehow. They can still show a charge but not push enough amps to do anything.
whats up with the fuel air ratio
Awww Motonosity doesn't like playing in the rain :P
Come to England for a month...Hell it's raining right now. XD
voltage regulator should be a silver or black box near the font of the bike
before you add the new stator &/or rectifier you need to check those connections first, grounds included! you may not have a good connection somewhere! when I upgraded my battery to a lipo, my ground to the chassis was rusty (I know yours isn't rusty but it could be not grounded correctly) & after sanding down the rust, I did add some silicon based conductive paste to the connections & the power flows nicely now! also the drop in the battery when you 1st checked it when you turned it to the on (not running) position, maybe due too the lights you have maybe drawing a lot of power & when you started it, it stabilized a bit, but due too either something with the recharging system or any connections with the charging system maybe the reason why it'll only charge to a mid to low charge plus, again some charging systems only work up to a certain speed, over said speed the system can't keep up if it doesn't have a good enough connection! you may need to put larger gauge wires in, change the connector type &/or again make sure it's got the best connection possible!
the cvt gearbox may not be setting to an idle position at start on some occasions and the battery doesn't have the cold crank power to initially push the belt through it also the battery will drop in voltage after startup and idle the stator should be able to hold the voltage around 12 to 12.5 volts until the revs increase then the stator should have more power to charge the battery back up to 13v
Looks like the regulator may be either bad or not quite hooked up correctly. When you rev the bike your voltage should rise and peak out around 14-14.5VDC. You can also check the leads coming off of the stator and see what a/c voltage it's putting out. Just shoot each of the yellow leads to ground when the bike is running and make sure your meter is set to a/c.
Check to see if u have ac voltage coming into regulator if u do bad regulator rectifyer
Try and disconnect your headlights and taking another voltage reading. When you turn the key the headlights came on and voltage drop quick.
does the charger have enough power to be able to charge the battery?
To make sure if the stator is actually bad you should check the voltage reading directly at the stator connection. It should be a fairly high voltage (up to 20v), and then the voltage is reduced in the voltage regulator down to around 14v for charging the battery. Also if the battery is fully charged the voltage regulator won't allow charge into the battery and it will stay around 12v until the battery is drained somewhat, then the reading will go up to around 14v in order to keep the battery charged.
Bro why didn't you hook up the meter to the stator output XD
what it looks like is u have the same issue that my dads 1974 cb200t had the stator is bad and its just running off the battery
Hi it looks like your rectifier has burnt out I had the same problem with my Chinese scooter.
Keep doing the crf video 👍
Make sure to check all of the wiring for the charging system as well as reg/rec and stator :)
Considering you've had issues with the wiring harness through the build and all of the parts are new the wiring would be first thing I would check.
what's the song he plays in his backround music
Hey Motonosity, is your voltage dropping as you rev it up?
If it drops while you rev it then it's most likely your regulator rectifier.
You can always have your local dealership do a load test on the battery to rule out the whole bad battery cell thing. That will also save you from buying a battery if you don't need it.
check
1. grounds
2. wires from stater
3. regulator
4. stater
Is it okay to use engine oil to lube a chain on a dirtbike? I've done this for ages but I'm not 100% sure on what it affects
Hey from Sweden awesome bike builds keep it up
Erik H #swedensquad
hahaha sjukt
Do a CRF Exploring tour like you did withyour WR !
Sounds like the stater or a bad ground if its not consistent. It sounds like ground for now. The voltage will be low at idle it should charge around lower to mid range rpm. take it out or prop the wheel up and get the rmp at mid range if its not up then I would replace the stater and the regulator. They usually go bad in pairs. Check your grounds first though. A faulty ground could do this as well.
I want to see you on your Crf supermoto tomorrow
are you sure the ruckus has an issue? I noticed the first time in the drivehrough you left the ignition on acc and the head lights on. and then in this video when you had it on acc again it dropped hella fast?
Check that rectifier bro. Had the same problem with my monster and it was the rectifier not rectifying, and the stator was fine.
Check the voltage coming from the alternator (stator) if that's giving out a voltage higher than 14 then it's not that, now check the voltage coming out of the regulator rectifier because it could be faulty, unfortunately not really reparable but there not to expensive.
The exact same thing happened to my OnePlus 3 like 2 days ago. Dropped it, it was ok and it spread from the bottom right and now it's ruined.
It's the little silver box that was what was wrong with mine I could put it on charge and it would crank fine and while it ran it would run fine but when you shut it off it wouldn't start back up. Can't figure out what it is called
magneto/voltage regulator?
I'm not sure if this will help you but check to make sure that you're getting the correct voltage coming out of your stator I can't advise you on what the voltage should be as every Stator is different
The Cauliflower looked good! Id definitely try some!
Digging the white and grey shirt!!! Where's it from??
Target! hahaha
"you think I'm sharing my cake!?" ahahahahahahhahaha
sucks that stator is fudged or something along those lines. you've looked at the regulator so you've made a good start. I'd also go down as close to the stator and just make sure that nothing is not loose. still probably have to take off the covers and exhaust to do it. :-(
push the resistors back onto the battery on the + wire its happened to me
Your stator might might be lined up wrong.. or its for a lower capacity.. or check on your rectifier.. it might be for a lower engine size and lower voltage output. So instead of over charging it, its just draining your batt on rpm.. but on idle it will give off a charge.. it happend to mine and replaced it with a bigger one, for a big bike a actually and it charges almost to 14.5 and can handle HID, LED, and an air horn. Will a 3 USB and lighter port.
Do you have a Rhode Island license plate in the collection?
Heres how to troubleshoot the charging system.
1st step Check the battery voltage with the engine on. you did this.
2nd step Check it at the regulator rectifier plug, normally red and green wires. if you don't find 13.something volts here, youre gonna wanna check the ac side. I believe you checked this also.
3rd step Probe the ac leads which are usually yellow sometimes there is one yellow and one pink, but I believe yours is 3 phase. Check each one to each other, there's no polarity. you're looking for something close to 20 to 30v here. if its like less than 10, your problem is NOT the reg rec. it would be wiring pinched from the engine to the reg rec or a failed stator. do this test with the multi in ac volts.
Above tests are with the engine running, but this 4th one should be with the engine off. Check each ac lead with continuity to ground. there should be no continuity. (check with ohms setting)
I hope that helps, I know you ordered both but you should be able to return the one not needed. I don't remember what charging system you run but if its some generic Chinese brand system, scrap the reg rec and wire a trail tech equivalent. the Chinese ones can rectify the current (turning ac into dc) but fail to regulate properly. if you read the voltage without the battery connected to average the voltage you will see voltage as high as 17 volts! With overcharging conditions such as this your battery would most likely only last a season. I've learned all this from my current build of converting a vintage kx250 to a street legal dual sport/supermoto.
P.S. Still rocking my OPO will probably get the 3 or 3t by summer!
Is the ground the frame/engine? If so you should float the ground from the stator so you have a negative wire going directly to the R/R it will give you a more stable charge then you don't have to worry about grounds.
It's a common problem with gy6 engines, sounds like the stator is shot, it happens very often. I've had it happen 3 times last year
New series? Cooking with motonosity! and who didn't watch figure it out and double dare and guts and legend of the hidden temple...
Check the voltage coming from the alternator (Or whatever the charging system is for bikes). I believe it should be around 14 volts if it's charging correctly, and the battery should be 14 volts when running
@Motonosity put your stock stator back on the bike and try it with that. those stator are flawed out of the box quite often. I've been working on mopeds and scooters for years, and I've seen it several times. it could be something on the bike (new lights maybe) is burning to much power. Chinese scooters always have a hard time charging their own batterys, even bone stock. you ruckus is a Honda but the motor isn't, you have to remember that lol. my 150 ruck had so many electrical problems I ended up going the kickstart route.
Check the amperage also it's more revealing then just voltage.
everything!
I would like to see you ride the BNX! And the supermoto!
Check the stator output before the regulator (in AC) sense the voltage stays at battery voltage it's either the stators not outputting the right voltage or the rectifier has failed. if you are going to just replace things start with the rectifier. if the diodes fail in the rectifier it will send AC current to the battery so it will essentially charge and drain the battery at the same time.
Make sure u have one ground going from the frame to the motor
1 of the diodes in the rectifier could have blown under charging the battery. you can test both stator & rectifier with the meter you have. use the diode mode it will tell you, plenty of youtube vids on how to... stator on ac output. I think i said same thing on your last vid.
doese ruckus have alternator because alternator probobly dont charge the batery while the engine is runing 🤔
what i think it is your stator is miswired and there for your not getting a charge to the battery. text pin your stator to check what wire is supposed to be your charge wire.
hey are you going to Smokey mountain crawl this yr....check it out on UA-cam lol it's not like you don't go on there anyhow mnnthbx started it....
Try deep fried battered mushroom caps. They have lots of protein and a nice consistency.