Sehr gut erklärt!!! Zwar auf Englisch, aber trotzdem gut verständlich, da alles einwandfrei gezeigt wird!! Ein ECHTER Fachmann! Und das im Kontrast zu manchn einem "Möchtegern-Fachmann" hier im Netz!
Bin ganz deiner Meinung! Einfach super, leicht zu verstehen. Sogar ich konnte meinen Ölgeber jetzt selber reinigen und einstellen und verbrauche nun weniger Öl auf den niedrigen Stufen.
Thank you, thank you for posting this. I have an older Efel oil stove that has the same carburator and I was not getting any fuel flow out of it. Apparently there are no dealers in the US any more so I was preparing to dive in. Your video gave me the nudge to dive in. It might be a good idea to remind people to keep an eye on the O-ring above the supply slot as mine came off and dropped into the bottom of the carburator causing me to have to remove the guts entirely. Thanks again.
I actually did. It turned out to be beneficial that I had to pull the insides out as well since there was some gunk making the needle stick a bit. Now, if I could just figure out why my ignitor won't work, it seems to be providing the voltage that it is supposed to the ignitor coil and the coil has some resistance so it is not broken, but I don't know what that resistance should be. Thanks again.
@@Kumastoves I did, but now it has not run for two winters. My electric bill was very high so I dove in again. My carb has a thermostat with a lever that pushes a pin down when it overheats. This pin then closes the flow valve. It seems to be sticking. Thanks again for the video. I'm glad i found it and will be writing a link on my manual this time.
Here in Germany you can get parts for a central oil supply system. These old oil stoves are still around and people like me love them. They just plain work. They just need some TLC once a month. The last time a winter storm threw trees at the power lines, my neighbor's super high tech, computer controlled, environmentally friendly, turbocharged, super furnace with a Ferrari red paint job just sat there as he froze in the dark. It wasn't cold or dark in my place because gravity doesn't care about electric current. But getting back to the central system, it's really awesome. The pump is expensive. I'm not going to lie. A really good one will set you back €1000. But!!! Dirt simple. It sucks out of the tank, and pushes up to 6 Bar of pressure into an 8mm (3/8" ) line. At every hookup point there is a socket with built in diaphragm regulator. Here is where you can kill yourself and blow up your house. The input pressure CANNOT BE MORE THAN 300 millibars. The socket regulates to 100 millibars. You hook it right into the Toby Valve, or get creative like I did and put in a check valve network , so if the power goes out, your fire won't. If your fire goes out, you had better wait until the pot is ice cold before you refill and restart. Otherwise you'll be "that guy" who burned his house down and blew off his face at the same time. That happens a lot here too. What can I say. Darwin. If you are using ovens like this as a primary heat source, you really should look into a central system. Very simple, and beats the crap out of going to the basement with an oil can every day. I also have 2 oil fired water heaters, so a central system is gold.
Agree therer basically Bombproof no electronics to faff about with no annual servicing the most important thing to do with these Harmony and Efel stoves is to unscrew the brass Ferrule in the front of the stove and pull and turn the oil line cleaning lever as far as you can pull it out to clean the inlet fuel hole plus you may need a new catalyser approx every 4 / 5 years
on the metering stem.. does it work by???? - as the stem is forced down by the screw above orr.. ... more of the slot in it is then exposed allowing more fuel to go by... - the more upward position the stem is (unscrew allowing spring to force it upward) will mean less of the slot exposed ,thus less fuel flow
Close, just switch the movement direction. When the control knob is rotated towards high, it allows the metering stem to raise, exposing more of the slot for more fuel. Conversely, when the knob is rotated towards low, the metering stem is pushed down, less of the slot is exposed, and less fuel will flow through.
I Don't understand t he idea of "High Fire, and Low Fire" Rate, i mean, the flow rate is not respoonsible for the high/low fire ? ofcourse i would like to have the lowest Flow Rate, but at least Medium burn or like, Low Fire is up To 3 Levels, and High Fire is from 4 to 6 ?
Excellent vid. -really helpful - it is all very high precision engineering- i had huge trouble getting the plate which holds the filter in to seal, and had reluctantly to glue it in place -but certainly do ot advise this
I am still having trouble getting the fuel flow to a minimum. It's still burning too hot even at it's lowest setting. Can the high setting in any way affect the minimum setting? This is a new control, so I don't think dirt is an issue. Is it possible that the control is mounted incorrectly? Off level for instance? if so, how do I correct this? HELP!!!!
If the catalyst in the burn pot is glowing and the top of the flame is even with the top of the burn pot, that is about as low as any oil stove should be set. If your flame is higher, you should be able to reduce oil with very small adjustments until it's correct. If your flame is already below the top of the burner then it should not be turned lower. Sometimes, you will have too much heat even on low, particularly in the spring and the fall when it is not as cold. I don't think mounting or level will affect the ability to turn down. Out of level may cause an uneven burn. Double checking the stove level in both directions would be a good idea regardless.
Ronnie, Not on this model. I don't know if other Toby controls operated as you say or not. Another very popular control for oil stoves did/does operate as you say. That was called OCI (Oil Controls International). Those were oval shaped and brown instead of the gray rectangle Toby.
@@jleefree Mines on a harmomny oil stove ive stripped the valve down the slot in the metering jet was a bit blocked re assembled it all preseed the lever to reset the float ,the lever stays in the down position replaced it back on stove but even on full setting its barely working just one side of the firepot is fired god knows what the problem is
@@casper1240 The lever on this Toby and others will lift up to activate the float inside but then will drop back down to rest at the bottom. Take the cover off and move the lever up then lift the float. The rising float with "click" to disengage the inlet needle. Do this a couple of times to get an idea for how it works. It's good to be familiar with the Toby on your stove but keep in mind that the control is the least common problem on oil stoves. Low flow from the tank and a carbon blockage where the fuel line connects to the burner are far more common causes of your symptoms.
In a sense, you're right that the "lever" is resting down during operation. However, it's an upward pull that activates the float for normal operation.
@@jleefree yes agreed Jason you lift the lever up to reset the float .been messing about all day with my stove in the end it was nothing to do with the good old reliable Toby Oil valve . no the answer to my stove was the oil inlet pipe that goes into the firebox was all carboned up id not bveen pulling the pipe cleaning lever all the way to the oil inlet hole so only letting a bit of oil through working perfectly now ,so if your having any problems with your oil stove especially the efel & Harmony range check the oil inlet pipe into the firebox fist .these toby valves only have a very low .22 failure rate so unlikely to be that check the pipe is clear first
i am having issues with oil flowing into my burn pot when the metering stem is placed and the dial is turned, however, the oil flows into the burn pot completely fine when the metering stem is removed. HELP!? PLEASE!)
I'm assuming you tried cleaning the metering stem slot? It could also be that the fuel viscosity is too high (thick), or that your fuel adjustments are both set too low. If this is an old stove but a new problem, focus on cleaning potential blockages. If this is a new (new to you) stove, definitely check those fuel settings. Factory settings are not guaranteed to deliver enough fuel, or any at all if the setting is too low and the oil viscosity too high.
The fuel pipe on my Harmony stove was completely carboned up by the firebox ,i thought it must be the toby valve faulty for the low flame but twas the clogged up fuel pipe into the firebox
@@timfraney you also need a fuel cut off unit in case of fire connected into the fuel line about 5/6 feet from the stove with a sensor placed behind the stove b
Thanks for this, I have a Sofram/Deville French tent heater which I think uses this style Toby valve or one that is very similar, mine runs on diesel but is unfortunatly leaking from the (up/down switch), obviously this is very worrying but I'm struggling to find anybody in the UK who can service it? Is there anything obvious I should be looking out for when I open it up? From what I gather the diesel shouldn't be getting this high up to leak as it should trip the safety mechanism float/leaver, any other go too things I should be considering? Thanks in advance for any helpful suggestions. 👍🏼
Mark, It sounds like your inlet needle is not seating all the way down to stop oil flow. I would suggest that you start with a thorough cleaning of the whole regulator. Make sure there is no debris or calcium buildup that could be preventing the needle from closing.
@@Kumastoves Massive thank you for the swift response, you're a absolute gent! Will open it up tomorrow and see whats what. Will keep you posted Thanks again. 👌
Check that the metering stem is clean. Also, check the passageway beneath the metering stem to be sure oil can leave the Toby control. Then, work your way toward the burn pot to make sure each component is clean. Check every fitting and the fuel line. From there, it's very important that your stove is level. If it is not level, the oil may not be able to flow from the Toby control to the burn pot.
@@Kumastoves I think a lot of people myself included dont pull the cleaning bar out far enough to reach the fuel inlet port mine is working perfectly now after removing the fuel inlet pip to the firepot i cleaned it with a wire brush that plumbers use for cleaning pipes
Sehr gut erklärt!!! Zwar auf Englisch, aber trotzdem gut verständlich, da alles einwandfrei gezeigt wird!! Ein ECHTER Fachmann! Und das im Kontrast zu manchn einem "Möchtegern-Fachmann" hier im Netz!
Bin ganz deiner Meinung! Einfach super, leicht zu verstehen. Sogar ich konnte meinen Ölgeber jetzt selber reinigen und einstellen und verbrauche nun weniger Öl auf den niedrigen Stufen.
Thank you, thank you for posting this. I have an older Efel oil stove that has the same carburator and I was not getting any fuel flow out of it. Apparently there are no dealers in the US any more so I was preparing to dive in. Your video gave me the nudge to dive in. It might be a good idea to remind people to keep an eye on the O-ring above the supply slot as mine came off and dropped into the bottom of the carburator causing me to have to remove the guts entirely. Thanks again.
Ed, thanks for the comments. Hopefully, you got your Efel stove running again.
I actually did. It turned out to be beneficial that I had to pull the insides out as well since there was some gunk making the needle stick a bit. Now, if I could just figure out why my ignitor won't work, it seems to be providing the voltage that it is supposed to the ignitor coil and the coil has some resistance so it is not broken, but I don't know what that resistance should be. Thanks again.
@@Kumastoves I did, but now it has not run for two winters. My electric bill was very high so I dove in again. My carb has a thermostat with a lever that pushes a pin down when it overheats. This pin then closes the flow valve. It seems to be sticking. Thanks again for the video. I'm glad i found it and will be writing a link on my manual this time.
Check the oil inlet pipe to the firebox isnt clogged up like mine working perfectly now good luck m
@@casper1240 Thanks, sold the property so not my problem anymore. ;-)
Thank you,for youre simple and good explanation
Here in Germany you can get parts for a central oil supply system. These old oil stoves are still around and people like me love them. They just plain work. They just need some TLC once a month. The last time a winter storm threw trees at the power lines, my neighbor's super high tech, computer controlled, environmentally friendly, turbocharged, super furnace with a Ferrari red paint job just sat there as he froze in the dark. It wasn't cold or dark in my place because gravity doesn't care about electric current.
But getting back to the central system, it's really awesome. The pump is expensive. I'm not going to lie. A really good one will set you back €1000. But!!! Dirt simple. It sucks out of the tank, and pushes up to 6 Bar of pressure into an 8mm (3/8" ) line. At every hookup point there is a socket with built in diaphragm regulator. Here is where you can kill yourself and blow up your house. The input pressure CANNOT BE MORE THAN 300 millibars. The socket regulates to 100 millibars. You hook it right into the Toby Valve, or get creative like I did and put in a check valve network , so if the power goes out, your fire won't. If your fire goes out, you had better wait until the pot is ice cold before you refill and restart. Otherwise you'll be "that guy" who burned his house down and blew off his face at the same time. That happens a lot here too. What can I say. Darwin.
If you are using ovens like this as a primary heat source, you really should look into a central system. Very simple, and beats the crap out of going to the basement with an oil can every day. I also have 2 oil fired water heaters, so a central system is gold.
Agree therer basically Bombproof no electronics to faff about with no annual servicing the most important thing to do with these Harmony and Efel stoves is to unscrew the brass Ferrule in the front of the stove and pull and turn the oil line cleaning lever as far as you can pull it out to clean the inlet fuel hole plus you may need a new catalyser approx every 4 / 5 years
thank you very much ! it's gonna be very useful ! now i'm going to restart the stove ! (nantes - france)
Excellent explanation! Thank you!
Grate help with such a simple overview thank you! From a complete novice.
🥃Cheers🍻
Very helpful. Having an Refleks stove on a sailboat.
Thank you! Very helpful and accurate!
Yes, a main filter at the tank is still very important. The screen in the control valve will not handle all of the filtering requirements.
Thanks so much for your video,
You are the best!!!!!Thanks!
on the metering stem.. does it work by????
- as the stem is forced down by the screw above orr.. ... more of the slot in it is then exposed allowing more fuel to go by...
- the more upward position the stem is (unscrew allowing spring to force it upward) will mean less of the slot exposed ,thus less fuel flow
Close, just switch the movement direction. When the control knob is rotated towards high, it allows the metering stem to raise, exposing more of the slot for more fuel. Conversely, when the knob is rotated towards low, the metering stem is pushed down, less of the slot is exposed, and less fuel will flow through.
If the stove is running too hot at the minimum setting, do I adjust the low setting, or the high setting?
Excellent video by the way.
Adjust the low setting for the low burn.
thank you so much !!!
Y qué tipo de aceite utiliza??
I Don't understand t he idea of "High Fire, and Low Fire" Rate, i mean, the flow rate is not respoonsible for the high/low fire ?
ofcourse i would like to have the lowest Flow Rate, but at least Medium burn
or like, Low Fire is up To 3 Levels, and High Fire is from 4 to 6 ?
thank you
Excellent vid. -really helpful - it is all very high precision engineering- i had huge trouble getting the plate which holds the filter in to seal, and had reluctantly to glue it in place -but certainly do ot advise this
I am still having trouble getting the fuel flow to a minimum. It's still burning too hot even at it's lowest setting. Can the high setting in any way affect the minimum setting? This is a new control, so I don't think dirt is an issue. Is it possible that the control is mounted incorrectly? Off level for instance? if so, how do I correct this? HELP!!!!
If the catalyst in the burn pot is glowing and the top of the flame is even with the top of the burn pot, that is about as low as any oil stove should be set. If your flame is higher, you should be able to reduce oil with very small adjustments until it's correct. If your flame is already below the top of the burner then it should not be turned lower. Sometimes, you will have too much heat even on low, particularly in the spring and the fall when it is not as cold. I don't think mounting or level will affect the ability to turn down. Out of level may cause an uneven burn. Double checking the stove level in both directions would be a good idea regardless.
Just a quick point i think the lever is in the down position when operational working
Ronnie, Not on this model. I don't know if other Toby controls operated as you say or not. Another very popular control for oil stoves did/does operate as you say. That was called OCI (Oil Controls International). Those were oval shaped and brown instead of the gray rectangle Toby.
@@jleefree Mines on a harmomny oil stove ive stripped the valve down the slot in the metering jet was a bit blocked re assembled it all preseed the lever to reset the float ,the lever stays in the down position replaced it back on stove but even on full setting its barely working just one side of the firepot is fired god knows what the problem is
@@casper1240 The lever on this Toby and others will lift up to activate the float inside but then will drop back down to rest at the bottom. Take the cover off and move the lever up then lift the float. The rising float with "click" to disengage the inlet needle. Do this a couple of times to get an idea for how it works. It's good to be familiar with the Toby on your stove but keep in mind that the control is the least common problem on oil stoves. Low flow from the tank and a carbon blockage where the fuel line connects to the burner are far more common causes of your symptoms.
In a sense, you're right that the "lever" is resting down during operation. However, it's an upward pull that activates the float for normal operation.
@@jleefree yes agreed Jason you lift the lever up to reset the float .been messing about all day with my stove in the end it was nothing to do with the good old reliable Toby Oil valve . no the answer to my stove was the oil inlet pipe that goes into the firebox was all carboned up id not bveen pulling the pipe cleaning lever all the way to the oil inlet hole so only letting a bit of oil through working perfectly now ,so if your having any problems with your oil stove especially the efel & Harmony range check the oil inlet pipe into the firebox fist .these toby valves only have a very low .22 failure rate so unlikely to be that check the pipe is clear first
i am having issues with oil flowing into my burn pot when the metering stem is placed and the dial is turned, however, the oil flows into the burn pot completely fine when the metering stem is removed. HELP!? PLEASE!)
I'm assuming you tried cleaning the metering stem slot? It could also be that the fuel viscosity is too high (thick), or that your fuel adjustments are both set too low. If this is an old stove but a new problem, focus on cleaning potential blockages. If this is a new (new to you) stove, definitely check those fuel settings. Factory settings are not guaranteed to deliver enough fuel, or any at all if the setting is too low and the oil viscosity too high.
como puedo despegar la aguja que esta adherida
Can someone help me out my oil carburator leaks how do I fix this!
Great video. If there are calcium deposits on the metering stem, should any special cleaner be used or just good old wire wool?
The fuel pipe on my Harmony stove was completely carboned up by the firebox ,i thought it must be the toby valve faulty for the low flame but twas the clogged up fuel pipe into the firebox
How did you get on sealing unit, we seem to have leak from gasket cover for filter unit.
Maybe helps to add in line an oil filter after oil tank to regulator in my oil stove?
Absolutely, a must in conjunction with a shut-off valve. Something like this: goo.gl/wGk4n4
@@timfraney you also need a fuel cut off unit in case of fire connected into the fuel line about 5/6 feet from the stove with a sensor placed behind the stove b
Thanks for this, I have a Sofram/Deville French tent heater which I think uses this style Toby valve or one that is very similar, mine runs on diesel but is unfortunatly leaking from the (up/down switch), obviously this is very worrying but I'm struggling to find anybody in the UK who can service it? Is there anything obvious I should be looking out for when I open it up?
From what I gather the diesel shouldn't be getting this high up to leak as it should trip the safety mechanism float/leaver, any other go too things I should be considering?
Thanks in advance for any helpful suggestions. 👍🏼
Mark, It sounds like your inlet needle is not seating all the way down to stop oil flow. I would suggest that you start with a thorough cleaning of the whole regulator. Make sure there is no debris or calcium buildup that could be preventing the needle from closing.
@@Kumastoves Massive thank you for the swift response, you're a absolute gent!
Will open it up tomorrow and see whats what.
Will keep you posted
Thanks again. 👌
Thx for thé video, but i see oil in the Toby DVR, but it does not go into thé tank top burn. Pls help
Check that the metering stem is clean. Also, check the passageway beneath the metering stem to be sure oil can leave the Toby control. Then, work your way toward the burn pot to make sure each component is clean. Check every fitting and the fuel line. From there, it's very important that your stove is level. If it is not level, the oil may not be able to flow from the Toby control to the burn pot.
@@Kumastoves I think a lot of people myself included dont pull the cleaning bar out far enough to reach the fuel inlet port mine is working perfectly now after removing the fuel inlet pip to the firepot i cleaned it with a wire brush that plumbers use for cleaning pipes
Can this be adaoted to older vinage Coleman stoves?
Most likely, yes. You'd need to be sure that the original oil level is maintained and you'd probably have a little re-route of the fuel line.
je voudrais la version francaise
Ies explications en français ce serait bien merci
metering stem= needle valve-ish
Salut Hugo