Awesome very informative vid. I have searched widely for good info on Hamon and never found more than small amounts of info at at time. You covered it all bravo
I've missed your lectures, professor 👍 Great one and... it's actuallu looks like in a classrom. Listening to you... Perhaps you've talked me to get back to knives... Not yet, but some time soon... Thank you 👍
I really appreciate this video and all your others. As I'm planning to make a submission for the bowie build off. I was a bit concerned about the hamon aspect of the build since I'd not done one before hearing about the build off. I've since (kind of) done my find hamon attempt on a piece of scrap steel, and this video showed that I pretty much did the whole operation wrong. But its about the journey of learning that drives. Once again thank you for your video and sharing your knowledge.
Really fun to sit along and listen! Even though I've learned these details over the years, It was still cool to hear you go through it! One thing that can be worth mentioning though, even though it's a bit of a no-brainer, now that I've done all the foolish things you do while learning. It's the importance and reason of having done all the normalizing cycles before applying the clay. Back when I was much more prone to rush things, I wanted to apply the clay as soon as the knife was forged and ground. I mean, it's always fun and gratifying to move on to the next step right? And Yaki-ire clay application is such a nice and calming process, right? But... Since the steel expands while heated, it can only hold the clay for a single heat, resulting in the entire clay jacket falling off once you try to heat it again. No shit, I know, but I still made that mistake a couple of times early on xD
Thanks for all the info. I have a feeling a number of us will be trying their first hamon soon 😊. What are your thoughts on a coffee etch for a hamon on a 1095 blade?
Cheers Sam for another Chalk Talk, love these :D I normally use 80crv2, but recently got some 26c3 to try out, lucky thing I did too! Will use that for the bowiebuildoff :) Don't suppose you've any tips for 26c3? I have water & medium speed quench oil available, I'm thinking clay + interrupted water quench ?
Yeah 26c3 is basically white paper steel, from what I have gleaned. You will be taking a risk but an interrupted warm water quench, transitioning into hot medium oil should be good enough to avoid cracking g
Thanks @@SamTownsBladesmith. Aye, it gets called 'Spicy White' think it just has a slight addition of Manganese. Might be a touch risky, but I'll give it a shot! Going to start thinking about design over the weekend
So I'm confused a bit. When you say 5160 can take a hamon, are you talking about a differential temper line? Because you say you can't do any hamon on 80crv2, and I'm confused because I have made a "hamon" (wavy line) on 80crv2 but I was told it's a differential temper line the same as edge quenching and its not a true hamon.
As I said in the video, at its core a hamon is just a hardening line, so technically you can call any differential hardening a hamon. I didn't say you can't achieve it in 80CrV2, just that it is less reliable. The argument about what constitutes a "true" hamon is just semantic masturbatory argumentation.
Awesome very informative vid. I have searched widely for good info on Hamon and never found more than small amounts of info at at time. You covered it all bravo
Brilliant tips, ideas and techniques Sir. Thank you muchly 🫡🍻
I've missed your lectures, professor 👍 Great one and... it's actuallu looks like in a classrom. Listening to you... Perhaps you've talked me to get back to knives... Not yet, but some time soon... Thank you 👍
This is such an incredible resource to all us baby smiths out there. Thank you for this.
You're very welcome, feel free to suggest topics if you don't see them in the playlist!
Thanks so much!! Such great info look Forward to doing a Hamon!
Sam your a good teacher, I learn a bunch thx for all you do , I using the tech on a blade now
Glad it helps mate!
I really appreciate this video and all your others. As I'm planning to make a submission for the bowie build off. I was a bit concerned about the hamon aspect of the build since I'd not done one before hearing about the build off. I've since (kind of) done my find hamon attempt on a piece of scrap steel, and this video showed that I pretty much did the whole operation wrong. But its about the journey of learning that drives. Once again thank you for your video and sharing your knowledge.
No worries! I look forward to seeing your entry!
Just a note, a good replacement for white paper steel is 26c3 it is more or less identical
can confirm it produces decent hamons
Finally finished watching.. and will be rewatching.. coz i need to!
Wooo chalk talks 🙌
Thanks for the great video! Lots of useful information, very well organized.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching
Hello, thanks a lot for these informations. Really fascinating. I will try few of these tips!
Brilliant information, thank you for sharing
No worries, thanks for watching!
Really fun to sit along and listen! Even though I've learned these details over the years, It was still cool to hear you go through it!
One thing that can be worth mentioning though, even though it's a bit of a no-brainer, now that I've done all the foolish things you do while learning. It's the importance and reason of having done all the normalizing cycles before applying the clay.
Back when I was much more prone to rush things, I wanted to apply the clay as soon as the knife was forged and ground. I mean, it's always fun and gratifying to move on to the next step right? And Yaki-ire clay application is such a nice and calming process, right?
But... Since the steel expands while heated, it can only hold the clay for a single heat, resulting in the entire clay jacket falling off once you try to heat it again. No shit, I know, but I still made that mistake a couple of times early on xD
Hey hey!! Good to know that you are still getting it done Ssm. 🖖✌️👍👍
Thanks Sam very helpful.
Dude this is AWESOME!!! What a resource!!
Glad it helps!
Thanks for all the info. I have a feeling a number of us will be trying their first hamon soon 😊. What are your thoughts on a coffee etch for a hamon on a 1095 blade?
Coffee isn't really well suited to hamon, given that the phosphoric acid just creates a thin layer of dark oxide. Feel free to give it a try though!
Cheers Sam for another Chalk Talk, love these :D I normally use 80crv2, but recently got some 26c3 to try out, lucky thing I did too! Will use that for the bowiebuildoff :) Don't suppose you've any tips for 26c3? I have water & medium speed quench oil available, I'm thinking clay + interrupted water quench ?
Yeah 26c3 is basically white paper steel, from what I have gleaned. You will be taking a risk but an interrupted warm water quench, transitioning into hot medium oil should be good enough to avoid cracking g
Thanks @@SamTownsBladesmith. Aye, it gets called 'Spicy White' think it just has a slight addition of Manganese. Might be a touch risky, but I'll give it a shot! Going to start thinking about design over the weekend
Great you're back!!
So I'm confused a bit.
When you say 5160 can take a hamon, are you talking about a differential temper line?
Because you say you can't do any hamon on 80crv2, and
I'm confused because I have made a "hamon" (wavy line) on 80crv2 but I was told it's a differential temper line the same as edge quenching and its not a true hamon.
As I said in the video, at its core a hamon is just a hardening line, so technically you can call any differential hardening a hamon. I didn't say you can't achieve it in 80CrV2, just that it is less reliable. The argument about what constitutes a "true" hamon is just semantic masturbatory argumentation.
Thanks s lot, that is a great video!
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
Thanks Sam, I watched every minute