#97 - Fluke 374 clamp meter repair
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- Опубліковано 8 сер 2024
- Another eBay score. It was sold "as is, for parts". It turned out to have a short somewhere around the input voltage regulators. Not a very exciting repair. Some basic checking was done as well, and the meter was found to be in spec.
- Наука та технологія
Own the 325 version I bought brand new and put away for several years. Tried it today and wouldn't power up. Your video gave me the courage to open it up and it turned out to be dirty battery contacts inside. Thanks!
I have a Fluke 376 that had a shorted backlight LED, and seeing how yours came apart was a big help when disassembling mine. One thing I noticed when reassembling was that the switch contacts can shift a bit in the plastic cap and cause an intermittent switch issue. Thanks for the video!
Great luck. Always nice to have an easy fix. I got lucky once with an Extech meter. The volt/ohms/ red port just needed to have it's connections resoldered to the PC board. It has served me well ever since.
Busco una pieza pero no se como se llame
I have the same problem with my fluke 376. Thank you for the video, I will try to have a look at mine 👍🏽
In the beginning I thought it had a scratched / broken trace on the board. Nice to get an easy one for a change.
Excellent. good investment.
great knowledge.
Thanks for sharing. Not very exciting, you said, but very effective. Maybe it was used in a "rough" environment, where a metal chip or flake somehow got inside.
I had a 376 that would not power up. Found U40 to be shorted out between pin 7 vss and pin 14 vdd. Was measuring 5 ohms. I desoldered pin 14 and lifted off pcb. Short was gone. This is a RTC I believe it is used for auto power off feature. Meter seems to work fine now with short removed. Not sure if I will go to the trouble of replacing it or not just for auto power off to work. U40 is under the LCD, so we have to handle disassembly carefully, not to damage it. In the beginning, I compared the current draw of this meter to a know good one. This one was way higher even when turned off. I used a temperature gun to isolate which components might be heating up. I found that the temperature around c2 c1 c141 which are all in parallel to be about 10 degrees higher. I thought one of these capacitors had shorted out when I measured 5 ohms across them, so I removed them all. Still had 5 ohms on pcb even with them removed. That is when I found U40 on the other side of the pcb to be the one that was actually heating up. This should be the same circuit in the 374 375 376 meters.
You can calibrate that offset 1.1apms by adjusting the nob by screwdriver behind the battery compartment
Very good video, thank you very much for your work, the like goes. I would like to ask you what function that variable resistor that is located in the rear and central part of the circuit would have. Thank you so much.
Exelent, tks Master 💯🔧
Mine is not measuring ohms (resistance) or diodes please advise. Someone used it to measure car battery I don't know what he done
Hi can you tell me how to fix Loff problem in Fluke115. When ever i switch on it displays Loff and nothing works. There is NO service center near to my location.
At 5:18, how do you go from the LPTG etched label SMD to the LP-2985 data sheet?
I'm planning on sticking a 18650 battery [or 3D printed battery pack] on my Fluke CNX3000 because it wastes a ton of power in wireless communications and I frequently find myself using the backlit display.
BTW: I loved your mod on the Scopemeter color.
It was a pity we never got to see what caused the fault, probably a stray solder blob or something.
I picked up a uni-t UT210E clamp meter, I really like it, is very small and does AC and DC too, I did a review on it at the time, video #243.
I have a Fluke 325 with a broken battery power circuit. Please guide me on how to reconnect the negative battery power circuit
i recently acquired a matco tools MD79 clamp meter. very similar to the fluke you show. the meter appears to have never been used. my problem is when youu turn it on, the display turns on for a split second, than goes out and stays out. switching to different modes makes no difference. if you shut it off and turn it on again, it does the same thing (display turns on for a split second). i opened it up and visually looked at it, but don't see anything that catches my eye. what could cause this? thank you.
How do we remove the rotary knob? O need to replace minse since rubber oveemouding is peeling off
A light bulb in series with an ampmeter would do for AC current
Friend tell me please, is the resistance of 5 bands 140 ohms? color
5 color bands Brown, yellow, black, black and its last color
Brown
Is that the protection fuse of the main circuit?
I have a 336 That reads voltage but In DC current, it shows 15A until you Zero it but won't read current at all- Even without zeroing it first.
Is there a schematic diagram out there anywhere that I could get a hold of?
Thanks.
Same with my 376
Does the position/orientation of a clamped cable effect the current measurement, or does the value stay the same even when you move the cable around in the clamp?
Flipping the meter over so that the cable goes through in the opposite direction will change the polarity shown. The value should not change but probably will by some small amount.
@Gordon Wedman Flipping=polarity I'm aware, but what formula defines the induced voltage depending on the absolute position within the coil of the field (with the field being of course 90deg towards the coil)? So an ac conductor passing through a coil at 90 deg, but moving around within the circular plane of the coil. Does this have any effect, or as long as it is enclosed by the coil it is all the same/averaged out?
@@jovangrbic97 laws of electrodynamics. The integral form of the fourth law of maxwell states that the path integral of the magnetic field around a closed loop is proportional to the sum of the currents over any surface enclosed by the loop, no matter the shape.
Buenas noches amigo, tengo una pinza amperimetrica Fluke 322, la misma no mide la corriente, mide voltaje, resistencia menos corriente, la mide pero la medida se va a cero a los cuatro o cinco segundos o simplemente no la mide.
How long has battery lasted on this meter?
Someone may know the value of the high voltage ceramic think film resistor locate in the input?
If you mean the white flat resistor, it is a 1 meg, and I had one checking open. I hit it with some good leaded rosin core solder and it has worked fine now ever since.
When I select DC volt ,camp met,showing ohms scale.but that reading not correct .also it select to ohms scale it show ac amps.whats wrong.pls
good afternoon ENG, greetings from Mexico,
Note that I have the FLUKE 376 FC clamp under repair and the fault I have is that the white thick film-type resistance is completely open,
It doesn't give me a reading when measuring with any multimeter, the resistance is what is directly linked to the voltage, Ac, Dc, and ohms,
Do you by any chance know what value that white flat resistor has in Ohms?
The white flat resistor, it is a 1 meg, and I had one checking open. I hit it with some good leaded rosin core solder and it has worked fine now ever since.
@@thomaszak1098 tks man ,
Hello can you write the code for the T1 and T2 components on the pcb thank you
Здравствуйте,как быть с тем что он не показывает частоту тока?Hr
Повезло, простой ремонт
What about engineer, good evening, I have a multimeter that has a failure when turning on, it does not turn on and shows a red LED, do you know what this error is associated with?
saved yourself a few hundred.....nice!
There is a schematics fluke 434?, won't turn on.
So there's no fuse for clamp meter
I have some I picked up at an estate sale if anyone wants a deal! Fluke 337, A lead kit with leads and 5 different attachments new, A 61 thermometer, Some Amprobe stuff, also vintage multimeters in leather and plastic cases. Colorado Springs area.
Tengo un error que me sale 9-03 ó g-03
I ve measured AC voltage with my Fluke 337 but it was set on DC and now my multimeter is basicly dead, it just flashed sreen and turned off, do someone have an idea how can i fix it because it dont have a fuse?
They don't die because of measuring AC in DC mode. This is impossible.
@@feedback-loop i dont know what cureent i measured but it was in DC mode, i think ive measured incorrectly and shorted something and it just died.
@@feedback-loop And i think it died because i wanted to measure voltage of some kind of high voltage generator and i put it in series with him and it just flashed and "died"
Me, buys clamp new. You, buys clamp and knocks loose stray solder ball while probing and fixed. Me, facepalm 🤦♂️. I guess I was burned on one to many parts items that were missing parts when I bough them. Nice to see a easy repair, congrats on the clamp meter.
I always check with seller and ask if anyone messed with items before I commit to buying.
This approach might be too limiting
Yes, but... I would say the more difficult repairs you do are more fun to watch! And learn from.
What did something like this cost as 'scrap/parts'? Seeing new it's 350EUR, I doubt it was 10-20$ as one wold dream finding something like this for... More like 100-200$ no?
I have seen used working ones for $170-200. I bought this one as a part of a lot, so it is hard to say. Most probably, less than $100, may be even much less, depending on my luck with other items from that lot.
@@feedback-loop I assume you resell most of your repairs. Would you see any benefit of an amatuer buying a Fluke clampmeter in this case, as opposed to a Uni T or similar? I think in 99.9% of situations one would not feel the difference?
@@jovangrbic97 I have had great luck with the UNI-T UT210E AC/DC clamp meter. Its resolution is 1 milliampere. It is one of my favorite pieces of test gear. I rarely made current measurements until I got this. I was too lazy to open the circuit and put a meter in line. Now I just clamp on a power lead. I got it to measure residual current from my car battery to the car electrical when everything electrical is asleep in the car. Works great and is very accurate. They were $35 USD when I got it last year. Must be a good seller or Covid gouging raised the price to $55 USD. There are tons of reviews on this all over UA-cam. I checked them before buying one.
@@jp040759 Yeah thanks for the input. It seems to me even as far as reliability and accuracy goes, in the precision ranges speced by a 'mere'clamp meter, the Fluke is just as usefull as a Uni T. I expect only in the 99.99th percentile of cases, big company, liability, freak high voltage accident... there is no benefit to the 10-20x more expensive Fluke.
I am not familiar with UniT. I believe it is cheap stuff. There must be plenty of reviews. I would suggest to look for a review, in which a reviewer knows how to tell a proper input protection from a piece of rubbish. I trust Fluke not to blow up in my face.
Fluke 376 clamp: won't ohm to zero when leads touch.
Keep your eyes open for a clamp meter that is meant for lower maximum currents like 60 amps. I have one and the maximum wire size is only one half inch. It will measure milliamps.
Yeah, that would be nice too. I do have a clamp like this, not a standalone clamp meter, but a clamp probe, that can be connected to a multimeter or a scope. Also nice to have. hantek.com.cn/products/detail/77
@@feedback-loop I have one of those as well but have not yet figured out how to use it with my scope I guess I should look for some videos. Too many toys to play with . . . .Just looked it the specs and I see it will not measure below 20 milliamps. That might be one reason I was having some trouble.
Anyone want to make a few bucks checking out mine? Mine got the most minor rain sprinkle on it and wont power up.
I have a 323 fluke clamp meter when turn on to test voltage AC or DC it keep on fluctuating from 400 something to 75 something am not sure what cause the issue it keep malfunctioning batteries are new?
Ever figure this one out?
@@harveyhershberger4292 your ask me I don’t know what is wrong with it
@@HBEnergy.m.s I have a 323 that does something similar. When I first turn it on to AC voltage it reads OL, then slowly drops to 0 V. If I put one lead on 120V and the other on ground, it reads OL. AC current, resistance, DC Voltage all work fine though. I’m stumped.
Hello Sir / Madam,
I have Fluke 376 clamp meter and while changing battery, negative terminal clip
has come off from the location.
Kindly advise me, how to repair or rectify this problem.
If you need picture, I can send.
Hi. I have a fluke 77 that sounds when I select the continuity function with not leads connected. I checked and I found this part broken drive.google.com/drive/folders/1IYKnqIpnDW1cQxQynd608evI36eL2aOf?usp=drive_link Do you know what part it is?