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- Опубліковано 9 вер 2024
- The calibrator was picked up in a non-working condition. After replacing a couple of electrolytic capacitors it started working and seems to be in spec. According to date codes on some parts it must have been made around 1983.
Correction: @11:55 I said it was 60uV out, but it was 600. Still within 1.5mV spec (2nd column).
Fluke 341A repair: • #32 - Fluke 341A volta...
I miss the old good “hello....” at the start. It’s not the same anymore
Nice that equipment like that stays inline and never drifts no planed obsolescence no baked in death. *Cheers*
with that luck I think you will be doing another video with your next 8,5 digit voltmeter acquired "for parts only" for $300. you deserve it!
who else went through internet seeking such a voltage calibrator after this video?
Those meters cost thousands even broken. I am not a voltnut to that extent yet. :)
Since I only read the note above, and have not watched the video yet, all I can say is that a TOTAL recapping is in order. In fact anything less is totally unacceptable. The unit deserves a total restoration.
How much would you pay for that?
@@feedback-loop , Good question... I can afford the recapping and the work needed, but that may be a crap shoot for some people... as they can fix almost anything which will happen if something serious happens. I just don't have time to play games. LOL Time is the thing which is becoming more and more important in my life at a couple of months shy of my 80th birthday!
Awesome, congratulations.
I have a Racal-Dana 5004 5-1/2 digit DMM (u5000 series) coming in, and I hope it goes this well with it. I'm sort of a Racal-Dana collector, and still use their equipment every day.
Great to see you with another repair. Thanks
Lucky you!
Zero calibration should also be done, as this was off in most ranges, creating some non linear deviations during the check.
Hopefully you get access to a DVM of higher accuracy some time, to do a full calibration of this nice 343A.
Or after recap, send it to a calibration lab. It's really worth it, it's at least on par with your nice 34401A.
Can't go wrong with this unit.
i hear wonderful enthusiasm in the voice, i like that, good work, i would like to have such fine test equipment in my lab too.
Repaired one 3 years ago. These are very interesting.
I always enjoy your videos.
I have one of those too which I picked up broken a few years ago and fixed, nice unit, I need to revisit my one as it started to get unstable above 600V.
Nice catch !
2:25 I live about 15 minutes from there and go by the facility every couple days. I've been inside and its a neat place.
It was a little scary when a voltage of 1000 volts was applied to a twisted pair designed for 100 volts
:)
Yeah, that was a little sloppy on my part
Quality instrument...cheers.
11:55 isn't that 600uV? Or am I a total derp in interpreting that? The 34401A switches to the 100V range, making you shift the least significant digit to 100's of uV...?
Yes, you are right. My mistake, I said 60, but it was 600. However, the second-column spec is 1.5mV, so still in spec.
@@feedback-loop Phew! That's good news, but I was secretly hoping for a repair video if it turned out to be out of spec, haha. I'm kinda envious of your cool standards! Thanks for sharing!
Very nice
Nice video. I hope you will show next video when you will change caps and all that(don't forget about that IC1 i was talking about..I hope i was talking with you about it). Btw Your zero voltage shows 20uV in 100 Voltage range and that is outside i believe 20 or 25 is max at 1000 Voltage range. Btw i think you didn't set your 344041 to 6.5 slow digit...Btw I have same meter as you..old good 34401A :) The best meter so far.. Btw i also didn't say but i would suggest to warm up your 344A for about 1/2 day the best is about 1 day..you will see big difference between that meter and cold meter..The best thing would be not to switch off at all..but that is not possible much..Also please check those big resistors..(sorry not sure if it is R120.121 or such) they are used for those Red Leds..they get pretty warm if they are 1.2kOhm ..So i would suggest to change them to 2.5k ..
Amazing!
I wonder, why you didn't check the constant current 0-25mA.
thanks for the vedio i have a fluke scopemeter 196c battery problem and i have an 8,4v 1.5 amp adapter can my scopmeter work with this adapter knowing that its battery is 7,2v.
The 343A has a 7 digit serial number, the 341A only has 6. Maybe it's just a fluke.
Couldn't resist, could ya? :)
Should you de-solder one end of the cap before measuring?
If the ESR is high, you can be sure that the cap is bad, if the ESR is low, you can only be sure it's good after making sure there aren't any other capacitors in parallel or by desoldering 1 lead.
So Jealous