Edit: I saw another video that suggested using a 3/8 bolt to remove the seal. Push the bolt in gently, then gently pull while rocking it in various directions. The seals came out in literally seconds that way. Also, regarding the high pressure line at the pump, I was able to access it from the wheel well fairly easily. It looked difficult at first, and the wrench had to be angled downward, but was still fairly easy. I did initially unbolt and try to lift the pump to access it, but that was quite problematic. -------- Original commment: the middle of this job right now...actually, in the house taking a break, because I want to throw every nearby tool through the windshield.... I decided to do all 3 lines after the previous owner's temporary rubber hose splice let go on the return line. How bad could it be? 20 minutes at worst? Nope. Covered in oil, rust in my eyes, and 2 hours in now, still can't get the old seals out. At this point, I've opted to just yank the pressure line seal and leave the return line. If you're preparing to do this job, be warned, working on a driveway with jackstands, access the the rack line ports is extremely difficult.
Great job on this video! I like the step by step and the fact that you showed everything that you were talking about... My Envoy is down at the garage with a power steering fluid leak waiting to get fixed... If I would have seen this video first I might have given it a go! 👍
For anyone struggling getting the new lines back in and not wanting to take apart the strut tower or control arms PUT THEM IN FROM THE TOP!!! All I did was disconnect the battery terminals and some looms around the fuse box. Fish it under all of those and you’ll have a much better time. You may have to pull it out a few times to get it under the right cables but way easier and safer than doing what this guy did.
You put the lines on the clip in reverse at the front under the crank pulley. The way they were removed is correct with the hard line (return line) closest to the crank pulley because you risk the flexible hose part of the high pressure line getting shredded by the crank pulley. How I found out: I installed them just like you did and realized the pressure line was dangerously close to the crank pulley.
On 2003 definitely easier to remove air filter and washer reservoir. This does not address the version with a power steering cooler which add another line. Both lines have to be removed from the left hand side (under radiator). A 2003 does not have the flap. You need to use a 10mm bolt to remove the two seals from the power steering rack. You can't hand install the two seals in the power steering rack. In fact you can't get your hand in behind at all. Just before installation, install seal on end of line.
Is there any way to disable the power steering pump to prevent fluid from leaking after starting the vehicle? I have a pretty severe leak under the grommet above the drivers wheel well. Wanting to start it up every now and then, but don't want fluid all over the driveway. That wobble socket is cool! Didn't know anything like that existed. Bet that thing comes in handy quite a bit. I am def not doing this job myself. And understand now why I'm being quoted $900-1300 for it. I would just scrap this vehicle, but I already put $1300 into it for control arms and suspension. Which took 4 months with my mechanic having health issues... Only to find damage to the power steering pressure lines and leaky coolant hoses the day after getting it back. Still gotta diagnose A/C issues and have someone put in the second vent actuator that my mechanic was supposed to do. Just can't win sometimes.
√ Watch the Video
√ Buy The Part at 1A Auto 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ Do it Yourself
√ Save Money
Edit: I saw another video that suggested using a 3/8 bolt to remove the seal. Push the bolt in gently, then gently pull while rocking it in various directions. The seals came out in literally seconds that way.
Also, regarding the high pressure line at the pump, I was able to access it from the wheel well fairly easily. It looked difficult at first, and the wrench had to be angled downward, but was still fairly easy. I did initially unbolt and try to lift the pump to access it, but that was quite problematic.
--------
Original commment:
the middle of this job right now...actually, in the house taking a break, because I want to throw every nearby tool through the windshield....
I decided to do all 3 lines after the previous owner's temporary rubber hose splice let go on the return line. How bad could it be? 20 minutes at worst? Nope. Covered in oil, rust in my eyes, and 2 hours in now, still can't get the old seals out. At this point, I've opted to just yank the pressure line seal and leave the return line.
If you're preparing to do this job, be warned, working on a driveway with jackstands, access the the rack line ports is extremely difficult.
Great job on this video!
I like the step by step and the fact that you showed everything that you were talking about...
My Envoy is down at the garage with a power steering fluid leak waiting to get fixed...
If I would have seen this video first I might have given it a go!
👍
For anyone struggling getting the new lines back in and not wanting to take apart the strut tower or control arms PUT THEM IN FROM THE TOP!!! All I did was disconnect the battery terminals and some looms around the fuse box. Fish it under all of those and you’ll have a much better time. You may have to pull it out a few times to get it under the right cables but way easier and safer than doing what this guy did.
+@thebigscooze We appreciate the feedback. Sometimes there are multiple ways to accomplish the same repair. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
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You put the lines on the clip in reverse at the front under the crank pulley. The way they were removed is correct with the hard line (return line) closest to the crank pulley because you risk the flexible hose part of the high pressure line getting shredded by the crank pulley.
How I found out: I installed them just like you did and realized the pressure line was dangerously close to the crank pulley.
On 2003 definitely easier to remove air filter and washer reservoir. This does not address the version with a power steering cooler which add another line. Both lines have to be removed from the left hand side (under radiator). A 2003 does not have the flap. You need to use a 10mm bolt to remove the two seals from the power steering rack. You can't hand install the two seals in the power steering rack. In fact you can't get your hand in behind at all. Just before installation, install seal on end of line.
Is there any way to disable the power steering pump to prevent fluid from leaking after starting the vehicle? I have a pretty severe leak under the grommet above the drivers wheel well. Wanting to start it up every now and then, but don't want fluid all over the driveway.
That wobble socket is cool! Didn't know anything like that existed. Bet that thing comes in handy quite a bit. I am def not doing this job myself. And understand now why I'm being quoted $900-1300 for it. I would just scrap this vehicle, but I already put $1300 into it for control arms and suspension. Which took 4 months with my mechanic having health issues... Only to find damage to the power steering pressure lines and leaky coolant hoses the day after getting it back. Still gotta diagnose A/C issues and have someone put in the second vent actuator that my mechanic was supposed to do. Just can't win sometimes.
What was the first line you removed to get out of the way?
Best video
What the seal part call I can’t find it at no AutoZone
It looks very confusing
Where was this video 3 years ago😭
take to car shop cost near $3000 to do
That bolt behind shield alomg frame rail is absolutely nasty to get out
ANY EASIER WAY ON REMOVING THE RACK O-RINGS. I CANT SEEM TO KNOCK EM OUT OF THE RACK.