Build WARHAMMER models like a PRO! - 101 Guide to Plastic Models
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
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In gunpla-land, we'd not recommend doing a first cut from the sprue adjacent to the model piece. The reason is that when cutting, plastic gets stressed, and the stress is related to the amount of plastic on each side. So if you cut relatively far a way from the model, and then do a second cut getting rid of the nub, there'll be less stres, and therefore less deformation on the model's edge. This is more important in a gunpla, where you might not even be painting the model, but it's still good practice, as GW plastic still deforms, and in some models, might even snip things apart: See, for instance, the Broodlord, where some connections cut to close, and in the wrong order, will mess things up.
This is also why it's important to cut the smaller connections from the part and the sprue before the bigger ones: The smaller the connection, the smaller the stress, and the harder it is for something to snap
Nice tip
Great tip! I do exactly the same, have been for years
Yeah! I started doing this a few years back and it's saved me a ton of hassle on delicate components.
Came here to say this. Basically what is happening is all the points of attachment will stress to some degree as you cut any single point, creating torque on the model, so by cutting away from the point and leaving a small amount of material you can avoid tear out and breakage. It does create extra work in the short term but you end up with a much finer end result without needing to do more time consuming things like add material back with sprue goo/filler and sanding.
There are a lot of nippers these days that are single-edge (like GodHand style) where the contact point is held in place and the blade slides cleanly through. I have never once had them leave a stress point, especially with GW plastics. But if anyone is timid, you can definitely follow jorge's tip!
Did not know that about the tamiya brush extention
lol same, haha and I've been using that glue for years now
Juan teaches you to snip, trim, and glue. Then he teaches you to glaze, blend, and highlight. I'm not sure any other content creator is producing such complete end to end tutorials for all people in all stages of this hobby.
Juan, you are a total legend!
Thanks mate, appreciate it. My idea is to end with a playlist that is a total encyclopedia of the hobby
That Tamiya brush trick is god tier 😎😎😎
IKR?
yeah, I can't believe I'd never run across this bit of news.
Juan is such a joyful, engaging, and entertaining teacher. No matter the subject!
Thanks
Here I was, sipping my sunday coffee browising youtube, oh look, it's another Juan Hidalgo video. Well, I've been doing miniatures for over 20 years, I'm not a moron I don't need any help, but let's pop it on, I enjoy listening to the guy.
5 minutes in, seeing the Tamiya brush exrension: I am a moron.
Lol, glad it did help you a bit
“Mr Hobby took cleaner 400” can also be used to refill your cement :) My local store didn’t have Tamiya so they had recommended that. Been using it for years now! Still on that first bottle!
Nice! Thanks
In the future of this series i would love to see videos on the absolute basics of painting even the most basic steps like how to hold the brush, how to rinse and dry between dipping your brush on into the paint and putting it on the model. The seeming most basic information that every other channel takes for granted
Definitely lots of value in practicing assembly without instructions and understanding how the numbering works. I would sometimes get tunnel vision with assembly and go strictly by the instructions without noticing the patterns. Much easier to clip numbers 36-42 in sequence then clean them then assemble them. There is definitely an art to assembling efficiently
I’m glad that UA-cam algorithms added him to my recommendation. I just started building miniatures. Last time I built models were model cars in the 1980’s. Thanks for the information.
Thank you for the great content. Getting ready to put together my first army, so this helped a lot!
Nice work as always💗💗
Hello Juan, that’s the Harbinger of Decay model, that I’m looking for since AGES and can’t find in any way 😭
Really hyped to know that will be the next masterclass model and can’t wait to see you painting him.
Looking forward to the next gap filling video since it’s a part I still struggle and need to figure out how to best do it and what materials are better to use
I'd always suggest the Stedi cutters: Almost indistinguishable from a Godhand, and so, so much cheaper.
AWESOME TIP
Awesome video. In the future when you do videos on how to paint space marines a certain color like your how to paint black or red armor videos can you paint the whole model including the gun and everything before you do the edge highlights and then show what it looks like after the edge highlights just to give it a little more perspective on how good it looks as an army wide painting scheme. Thank you and love the videos
Thanks for the suggestion
A little advice: For those cutter with 9mm blades you can also buy 30° blades. They are more pointed and have a longer sharpened area.
4:15 Holds scalpel. “Nothing can go wrong here.” Hahahaha!
LOL
Hi Juan, you were right it was worth watching your video. Even though I have been painting miniatures for some time now I had no idea how to use Tamia glue and mold line removal tools. Thanks for the video :)
Happy to help! Glad you found it useful
You can extend the Tamiya brush?!!! Revelation! once again your vids prove to be a treasure trove of knowledge
IKR!! I was amazed when I found out
I had no idea about the brush, so went and extended it straight away, yay
Happy to help!
Un video genial con buenos consejos, ¿en el próximo video enseñarás como pegar miniaturas metálicas? Tengo algunas antiguas grandes que con el tiempo se despegan. Saludos!
When snapping off the blade tip, I'd recommend flexing it the other way so that you don't risk it flinging up towards your face 👍
❤My dude, thanks for The Tamya Extra thin cement tip extenting trick🎉❤
And thanks for The content ❤
Happy to help!
Tamiya, as recommended, is fantastic for GW plastics. It's not for all plastics, however. PVC-type plastics, like Reaper models, require the super glue.
Yes of course, I was talking about polystyrene models
@@JuanHidalgoMiniatures Fantastic content, as always.
Great tips. Thanks mate!
Thanks
Great idea for a series! YT didn't push these beginner tutorials when I started and it was very nerve-racking to assemble my first minis.
For some of the older plastic I think you could have given more detail about removing mold lines and flash. It's a much more gentle process than I first thought and can depend a bit on the angle you hold the scraper at. Using the sharp edge and a gentle touch seems to work the best for me. But I still need to use sandpaper sometimes.
Considering how much can go wrong maybe you could make a troubleshooting video for the series?
Also I had no idea the numbers were the intended build order. 😅 That'll be helpful for my next battleline unit.
Happy to help and thanks for the suggestions!
Had no idea about the Tamiya brush extension. I prefer the Mr Cement S (sold at Hobby Lobby, by the way) with the newer bottle design over the Tamiya thin, just personal preference. $4 a bottle is pretty good price too.
Mr Cement S is my favourite glue for sure, but the Tamiya Extra Thin being refillable is a great deal for beginners
Gran video, rstoy iniciandome en esto despues de dejarlo por algunas decadas jaja me viene justo estos videos, entiendo el inglés pero no lo escribo muy bien. Gracias por los tips
Gracias por verlos!
Tío Juan, el programa del que hablas en el sponsor se dice "sí brush" 😂😂😂
Another tip for the knives: don't throw the blades directly in the trash.
Instead, empty a broth can by cutting a slit in the middle and throw the blades in it. Once full, tape it, mark the can as "blades" and throw it away.
(I guess you could go the extra mile and throw it away in a metal deposit. )
When choosing clippers, look for those that have very flat blades. Take a look at the second black pair here - their blades are angled, so when they come together it's not a flat surface but a 90 degree angle. This is bad.
The reason it's bad - firstly, you won't be able to get to the places on the sprue you need. The big blades just won't fit between tightly packed pieces. Secondly, as you start to cut your sprue the plastic gets pinched between angled blades and pushes them forward.
You can absolutely find super-cheap clippers (sometimes called nippers) in electronics sections of the stores. They're no different from hobby ones. Just try to pick flattest blades possible. 😊
Awesome tip!
Also not for nothing, I got by with just a scalpel at first. Just be very slow and accurate with it, and make sure that there's nothing important in the line of the cut - fingers or model. Sometimes the blade cuts almost immediately other time you struggle.
5:15 wow amazing tip
Great video!
Thanks
Wow, that part 1 card was a direct shot at AndyC and me, wasn't it?
JH, are you getting the Mantic Firefight Edge of Sanity box set? It has all new Asterians in it, and I'm really looking forward to updated Asterian models.
Sadly, not for now
Can I ask how you glue bigger models? I built a Maw Krusha today and had a nightmare glueing the two sides together
I'm really looking forward to the gap filling video because a friend of mine invented a technique that's possibly genius but I wanna see first if anyone else has thought of it.
I would love to know it and I will give him credit in the video if it's something new and works well
@@JuanHidalgoMiniatures his name is Johnny R. - this might be something people do already but while attempting to put shavings into a gap for some instant sprue goo, he instead tried using a sharpened bit of sprue like a pen, dipped the end in Tamiya then dragged it down the gap, which was instantly filled. Haven't tried it yet myself but he showed me his results and they looked pretty good.
@sonicwingnut NICE! Will definitely try that and see what I can do.
Which miniature is this that you are building, oh great Juan?✌️😎🏴
Apparently it's called the Harbinger of Decay
@@JuanHidalgoMiniatures thanks Juan.😁
Cuando he tenido problemas de no tener las instrucciones un email a atención al cliente de gw y me han facilitado sin pegas 😁
Genial saberlo
your amazon store link (USA) took me to a camera, just FYI
Yeah, it's not my store or anything like that. It's a random product, you can then buy anything you want and it will register as an affiliate purchase for me.
I was today years old when I learned about that telescoping brush trick
It's such an unknown trick, hopefully more people will learn about it now
The brush in the thin cement is extendable? Mind blown.
YEAH!
All the models I buy are resin and the Tamiya thin cement never seems to work on that material. I guess it only works for GW plastic.
Yes, it's only for plastic models not resin. A video on resin and metal is coming
I have a hard time wrapping my head around the airbrush cleaner being the same as glue. How?
Did I know about the Tamiya brush extension... no, no I did not...
I always find mold lines on textured surfaces difficult like folds of cloth....
Just be gentle with the scrapping and do several light passes. You can melt the fuzzy residue with the glue as shown in the video
@@JuanHidalgoMiniatures Thankyou Mr Hidalgo!
Cleaning mould lines is the worse part of the hobby 😂
Most definitely
13:50 Did he just lick that glue brush 🤔
I always do
💚🤍🧡
I like your videos, but as so many channels are doing now, it feels like it is an advertisement for your patreon. If I want to see all your patreon exclusive videos, it is almost 100$ a year if you pay annually. I just can't afford that, and the lower tier memberships don't provide access to your videos. I'm sorry I'm ranting, but I really like most of your videos and would love to see the master class videos. I'm just bummed about the trajectory of UA-cam and patreon.
I understand it and I know it's frustrating but sadly if I want to do this full time I need Patreon.
That being said, you can access all my videos with one payment, you don't need to be subscribed for a year. One month Access will get you ALL the videos I've done until that moment.
@@JuanHidalgoMiniatures I understand and thank you.
I was listening to a podcast with some ex-GW employees. Sorry, I can't remember which podcast. They said the mold line remover was originally designed for Finecast models. The Finecast resin was too soft, and people were hacking big chunks off minis with normal hobby knives. They made the mold line remover so it less dangerous and easier to scrape smaller amounts. That's why it always feels a little weak when using on plastics - it wasn't designed with them in mind.
Thanks for that! I didn't know that
It was also because they wanted to have a tool that could be easily given to children without them cutting themselves.