Thank you soooo much for such easily understandable descriptions and an adequate approach to homebrewing. It's all about experimenting and practice, and watching your amazing videos helped me way more than spending weeks on reading tons of those classical literature. Your personal time matters and if you could squeeze those extra 15 min out of the boiling and it doesn't affect the end result, so why not!!!
Well I was a bartender years ago now I'm moving on to become a beer and Sake manufacturer so thank you, this kind of hobby is right up my alcolic alley
Amazing video. I like that you are operating under the premise of doing what you experience, instead of doing what other people do what say you should do.
On boiling: Yes it does condense the wort to your target volume but more importantly during boiling the mashing process is fully arrested so that the wort does not change any more due to enzymes acting on proteins, sugars and starches. Boiling also encourages the Maillard reaction to occur within the sugars and proteins in the wort creating glutamates and caramel flavors to occur. This contributes a tremendous amount of depth in flavor to the beer which is essential in many European styles of beer, German and Belgian styles in particular. This is why I still do a decoction mash when making those types of beer and at least a 60min rolling boil. This allows full sterilization of your wort as well, helping make sure your beer wont get infected. Great vide, keep them coming!
I noticed he only "dispelled myths" based on cherry picked points. As you point out, there are other reasons for several of the practices being called myths. One I'll agree with, is not needing to add hops at the beginning of the boil, especially if you don't like too much bittering. This video was three years ago; likely he has learned more since. Don't squeeze your bag lol With some caveats, I have to disagree with squeezing. Depends on the bag to an extent, and also how fine the grains are crushed. If it makes sense to remove the grains before the boil, then it also makes sense to not push out of the bag any finer bits by squeezing. If your bag has large holes, these fines will already be mostly in your wort anyway, and squeezing will only push out liquid. If you have a finer filtering bag, it will be holding back finer debris that may get squeezed out. Either way, IMO, you will get more out of the grains by sparging than you will by squeezing. You can squeeze you bag all day and not get the sugars out, but by pouring water over/into the draining grain bag, you will see when the draining liquid starts to run clear. I think transferring to a second fermenter also makes sense in many cases. Lagering, Hop creep, off flavors from yeast and hop fibers, clear beer. Professionals have the means to drop the trub out the bottom to prevent this. I will agree that due to improvements over the decades there is less reason today. Most of the time "myths" exist for a reason; not always, but generally; but what do I know, I'm a beginner....sort of ;-)
The first thing I homebrewed was beer. I was shocked at how easy it was to make beer that was head and shoulders above most beer I could buy at 7-11! So many people just don't realize that homebrewing is literally exactly the same as commercial brewing - except on a smaller scale! Same equipment, same ingredients, same yeast - just smaller servings and smaller fermenters! (I LOVE your videos, by the way! Your editing and camera work are soo much better than mine! Do you have a video making/editing background?)
Totally agree. And thank you, yes I have been making videos and editing for years. Home brewing was always a hobby but figured I should combine my background with it and make YT vids!
Genus Brewing have done some great brewing myth videos and it's good to see someone adding to the list. So many forums have brewers either stuck in the mud or dragging new brewers into the mud with the ancient thinking that it's so good that there's a resistance movement. There are so many myths linked to sparging, dry hopping, temperatures, ingredients... they must be destroyed!
Do all home beer kits some with a straining bag as well, I'm looking at a home brewing kit right now could you recommend a good one to use for first time brewers
Good advise. When I use the cans of beer to start a new batch they recommend boiling the wort on the stove prior to brewing. Now just put the tin in hot water to liquify and add directly to the primary with the water and then the yeast. It ends up just as good as when the wort gets boiled first.
Thank you, TheBruSho, for all of the great inspiration and recipies. It would be awesome if you would do a partial mash tutorial. I have done a few beerkits, but I don’t feel ready to start allgrain brewing just yet. Partial mash seems appealing as it takes less equipment. It is, however, hard to know if one should just use a scaled down recipe, a larger part of specialty malt (add more taste to kit) or mainly basemalt (reduces beerkit «twang»). And when the minimash is combined with the beerkit, should additional sugar be added, or will the minimash replace it alltogether?
Thanks for watching, I did a partial mash video not too long ago, check my page and look for the Apricot Wheat Ale Partial Mash video, hopefully that helps but let me know if you need more info!
Believe it or not traditional brewing texts recommend that all-grain beers be boiled for 90 minutes. The 60 minute thing is already a cut down from the past, as it's at this point you hit a diminishing return on your bittering. About 90% of the Alpha Acids have been dispersed by this point. Hops can be bit expensive depending on your recipe and location, so this is why 60 minutes is the average recommended. However, you're correct, as I've seen lower hoped recipes suggest 30-45 minute boils in the past or you don't mind spending a few extra bucks to save some time. Personally, I'm all about minimizing the costs, as my primary reason for brewing is to save money as beer is expensive Canada.
What about using a secondary vessel for lagering? That is useful right? Or do you use other equipment for that? Just subbed to your channel, I really like it! Greetings from The Netherlands🖐
Hey! I find secondary is only really useful if your adding in stabilizers for backsweetening or if your adding in some unique ingredient. Most cases I’ll later in primary or in the keg
Thanks! You can definitely use any fining agent like gelatin or biofine before bottling, it should not effect carbonation. But just know you will still have some yeast settle out when you bottle condition, so the last sip or two might be yeasty/cloudy
I don't know if this is a myth, but is it true that when you mill grains after wet conditioning they can't be left overnight? I find it helps a lot with the crush so i still always do it but just adds more time to the brew day. I'd love to do it the day before
I haven’t tested this but I know a few people that wet condition before milling, but not sure about leaving it over night. I guess worry would be that it would become acidic?
The beauty of homebrew is the art of the human error and the science of total control of your flavors... then pulling the tap handle and drinking bandaid flavored satisfaction..🤘🔥💪🍻
The one Myth I still follow (and yes, I do know I don't have to) is Secondary. I've transferred since the beginning and the hate I get for it is unbelievable! Especially when those same people see me squeeze my grain bag like it owes me money! People are weird. Excellent vid ... Cheers Sir!
Hahah yeah I mean at the end of the day do what you want, it’s your home brewery. I’ll never understand when people hate on others for that kind of thing
Secondary fermentation is a myth in homebrewing because the conversion step is skipped, which makes secondary fermentation unnecessary. The high temperature recommended in recipes denatures Beta, conversion won't take place, anyway. Homebrew malt is high modified, and for conversion to occur an Alpha-Beta enzyme mixture has to be added to the mash. In homebrewing, the dextrinization, and gelatinization steps are also, skipped. Bag squeezing helps tremendously, not only are the regular types of goop flushed out, but the extra fine goop is squeezed out, as well. The negative impacts on the final product caused by carry over sludge, excess protein, Beta Glucan, and starch, are myths. A malt spec sheet comes with every bag of malt, which is used in brewing for determining the quality of malt, before buying malt. In homebrewing, the sheet is nonexistent. Accurate data is a myth and recipes are gospel in homebrewing. There is supposed to be two numbers on hops, Alpha and Beta. Beta is usually missing on homebrew hops. When the number is missing the quality of hops cannot be determined. Accurate data is a myth and recipes are gospel. Enzymes work at various temperatures, which became a myth in homebrewing, due to single temperature infusion. High modified, high protein malt soaked in hot water for an hour at one temperature produces ale, homebrew malt is very special, in someway. The brewing methods that produce pseudo, and authentic ale and lager with brewers grade, under modified, low protein, malt became myths. You learned how to make home made, distillers beer, renamed real ale, when CAMRA was invented. You see, my brewing compadre, when a person doesn't know the difference between a hay wagon and a Mercedes Benz, a wily, salesman can prey on the persons ignorance, and convince the person that a hay wagon is a Mercedes Benz, and even provide instructions and sell materials to build it.
I was told that Home brewing is way more expensive compared to just hitting the store for beer. So far I have found that to not be true unless you buy very cheap beer or dont have a preference and buy what ever is on sale.
AFAIK you should boil for at least 60 min in order to get rid of DMS and prevent off-flavour. This depends on the type of malt but is especially true for pilsners.
About the mash and the boil time of 60 minutes: I've done 20, 30, 45 minute mashes and 90 minute mashes. I recommend a 90 minute mash. Better efficiency. And I also recommend a proteinase rest before an amylase rest. I get better efficiency this way. So, every brewer should know his system and what works for him.
It's very important to note that I use only German, Weyermann malts. I get a drastic drop in efficiency when I use unmalted grains, like flaked etc. I get a drop in efficiency when I use wheat malts, so that's where I started to see a bump in efficiency from the protein rest, so I am no longer making beer without that protein rest step in the mash. And now I am experimenting with diastatic malts...
Oh, and about the boil times: I've done 20 minute boils and I've never had DMS in my beers. Ever. At any boil times for pilsner malts. There never is a need for a 90 minute boil for pilsner malt wort.
The one of not squeezing , is probably if, you stir the mash very much at temperature over 70 degrees cecilus, the grain can make a harsh beer beacause of astrigens (tanins fell out), that is something I have experienced myself. One of my first batches came out very harsh beacause of this. Being aware of this this has never happend to me afterwords. I dont know if squeezing do the same, dont use bags . . , it may be a myth. . . I mash 90 minutes, If I mash only 60 I loos 3-4% effectivity . . .It is a reason why industrial brewers in the "beer country" Germany often mash for 2,5 hours . . . (step mash) :-) Tanks for nice video !
A hydrometer reads pressure, which includes the pressure exerted by carried over goop. The formula for figuring out efficiency is inaccurate. A special gadget is used for determining efficiency, ABV, and attenuation. To make it easy, efficiency is listed on the malt spec sheet that came with the malt that you bought. The only problem is that the guy that sold the malt had no idea that spec sheets come with malt. They're used for determining the quality of malt before a brewer purchases malt. The homebrew method is the least efficient brewing method. The brewing method produces extract containing mainly, glucose, and depending on the rest temperature, more or less, sweet tasting, nonfermenting types of sugar. The extract lacks fermentable, complex sugars, tasteless, nonfermenting types of sugar, pectin, and a type of protein responsible for foam and head retention. The richest starch in malt, amylopectin, is thrown out with the spent mash in homebrewing, so, efficiency is down the drain.
As a lifelong Aquarist and long-time Aquaponist, I have found Ph meters to be more of a pain in the butt, than they are worth. A one-dollar pack of Litmus paper works just fine, and will last you for years.
There's a myth going around that the alcohol in beer will kill any and all wild micro organisms ( 1:52 ), but it's not true! Hand sanitiser has an alcohol content of at least 60% but preferably 80% or more. Even the acidic environment in beer with still allow the growth of many spoilage bacteria types for example. I think this strange idea is propagated by people who see some yeasts struggle or even die off in high alcohol beers of 10%+ and then assume that all organism's must die off as well but beer yeast is different to bacteria (it's a fungi) and it's alcohol tolerance is very different
Great video Trent! But you didn’t mention that myth that you shouldn’t drink on brew day. Kidding, but yea man, I heard all these same myths so this vid was spot on.
@@TheBruSho I found something on the subject that says it seems that Joe's Ancient Orange Mead (JAOM) is one of the main sources for its ubiquity in modern mead making, the recipe itself is probably influenced by a recipe from the Mount Vernon library (possibly by Martha Washington), but they don't show up as commonly as people think. One thing about raisins though is that while they have almost no yeast nutrient, what they *can* have is yeast itself, so maybe that could be a reason people used them
The myths in homebrewing became myths because homebrew isn't ale, it is distillers beer, which is made with single temperature infusion, and high modified, high protein, malt. Since, homebrew and ale are different liquids, made with different brewing methods, things that apply in homebrewing have very little connection with ale and lager.
Again, a beer video without the use of liquid malt extract. Do you know how much time is saved by using it? and there is no waste. Most large breweries use liquid malt for quality control.
Regarding Efficiency, Mashing for a longer time is at some point even less efficient overall. You might get a higher calculated efficiency, but that doesnt take into account the energy cost and time you put in there. So for bragging its okay but for real efficiency not really.
@@TheBruSho well, beer is relatively stable on itself. If i were to brew a light beer with little hops, id be careful, but for an ipa or an imperial stout theres not too big of a risk of infection. As long as your chiller and fermenter are clean nothing can happen really. I mean germs like yeasts and bacteria compete with each other and make the medium uninhabitable for each other. Once you pitch your yeast, the yeast is so much stronger than all the other stuff floating around in there
Wow they make beer in a closet like where in San Francisco so when they come out of the closet they bring the beer out first so they can celebrate their lifestyle that's funny I d9nt care who you are
Thank you soooo much for such easily understandable descriptions and an adequate approach to homebrewing. It's all about experimenting and practice, and watching your amazing videos helped me way more than spending weeks on reading tons of those classical literature. Your personal time matters and if you could squeeze those extra 15 min out of the boiling and it doesn't affect the end result, so why not!!!
A homebrew myth that CH from Homebrew 4 Life helped to dispel: plastic fermenters are a bad thing.
Not a myth. Food grade plastic is just an FDA approved label, that benefits industry. There is no such thing as plastic that does not contaminate.
Well I was a bartender years ago now I'm moving on to become a beer and Sake manufacturer so thank you, this kind of hobby is right up my alcolic alley
Amazing video. I like that you are operating under the premise of doing what you experience, instead of doing what other people do what say you should do.
On boiling: Yes it does condense the wort to your target volume but more importantly during boiling the mashing process is fully arrested so that the wort does not change any more due to enzymes acting on proteins, sugars and starches. Boiling also encourages the Maillard reaction to occur within the sugars and proteins in the wort creating glutamates and caramel flavors to occur. This contributes a tremendous amount of depth in flavor to the beer which is essential in many European styles of beer, German and Belgian styles in particular. This is why I still do a decoction mash when making those types of beer and at least a 60min rolling boil. This allows full sterilization of your wort as well, helping make sure your beer wont get infected. Great vide, keep them coming!
All great points. Thank you!
I noticed he only "dispelled myths" based on cherry picked points. As you point out, there are other reasons for several of the practices being called myths. One I'll agree with, is not needing to add hops at the beginning of the boil, especially if you don't like too much bittering. This video was three years ago; likely he has learned more since.
Don't squeeze your bag lol With some caveats, I have to disagree with squeezing. Depends on the bag to an extent, and also how fine the grains are crushed. If it makes sense to remove the grains before the boil, then it also makes sense to not push out of the bag any finer bits by squeezing. If your bag has large holes, these fines will already be mostly in your wort anyway, and squeezing will only push out liquid. If you have a finer filtering bag, it will be holding back finer debris that may get squeezed out.
Either way, IMO, you will get more out of the grains by sparging than you will by squeezing. You can squeeze you bag all day and not get the sugars out, but by pouring water over/into the draining grain bag, you will see when the draining liquid starts to run clear.
I think transferring to a second fermenter also makes sense in many cases. Lagering, Hop creep, off flavors from yeast and hop fibers, clear beer. Professionals have the means to drop the trub out the bottom to prevent this. I will agree that due to improvements over the decades there is less reason today.
Most of the time "myths" exist for a reason; not always, but generally; but what do I know, I'm a beginner....sort of ;-)
The first thing I homebrewed was beer. I was shocked at how easy it was to make beer that was head and shoulders above most beer I could buy at 7-11!
So many people just don't realize that homebrewing is literally exactly the same as commercial brewing - except on a smaller scale! Same equipment, same ingredients, same yeast - just smaller servings and smaller fermenters!
(I LOVE your videos, by the way! Your editing and camera work are soo much better than mine! Do you have a video making/editing background?)
Totally agree. And thank you, yes I have been making videos and editing for years. Home brewing was always a hobby but figured I should combine my background with it and make YT vids!
@@TheBruSho You're doing an amazing job! Don't ever stop!
It's fun, you learn, and you can drink pretty decent stuff even if you don't put that much effort into it
this is super underrated, you're doing a good job 👍
Thank you so much! Appreciate that
Good stuff! Would definitely love to see another video like this!
Thanks man! I plan to do more for sure
Genus Brewing have done some great brewing myth videos and it's good to see someone adding to the list. So many forums have brewers either stuck in the mud or dragging new brewers into the mud with the ancient thinking that it's so good that there's a resistance movement.
There are so many myths linked to sparging, dry hopping, temperatures, ingredients... they must be destroyed!
Hahah thank you! And I definitely have enough ammo for another myth buster episode!
Great video! When I did BIAB I used to squeeze that bag like it owed me money and I was taking it’s money with it’s life! That was kinda dark……
Lol 💀💰
Do all home beer kits some with a straining bag as well, I'm looking at a home brewing kit right now could you recommend a good one to use for first time brewers
Good advise. When I use the cans of beer to start a new batch they recommend boiling the wort on the stove prior to brewing. Now just put the tin in hot water to liquify and add directly to the primary with the water and then the yeast. It ends up just as good as when the wort gets boiled first.
Great tip thank you!!
The tins are concentrated wort that has already been boiled, and hopped and filtered too in most cases. Not the same thing.
Another great video!!!! 🍺
Thank you!!
Thank you, TheBruSho, for all of the great inspiration and recipies. It would be awesome if you would do a partial mash tutorial. I have done a few beerkits, but I don’t feel ready to start allgrain brewing just yet.
Partial mash seems appealing as it takes less equipment. It is, however, hard to know if one should just use a scaled down recipe, a larger part of specialty malt (add more taste to kit) or mainly basemalt (reduces beerkit «twang»). And when the minimash is combined with the beerkit, should additional sugar be added, or will the minimash replace it alltogether?
Thanks for watching, I did a partial mash video not too long ago, check my page and look for the Apricot Wheat Ale Partial Mash video, hopefully that helps but let me know if you need more info!
shoutout received!
The GOAT
The Brusho, The Myth, the Legend 🍻
Mainly myth. But thank you lol
wakey wakey, eggs and brusho
Best part of waking up... lol
Believe it or not traditional brewing texts recommend that all-grain beers be boiled for 90 minutes. The 60 minute thing is already a cut down from the past, as it's at this point you hit a diminishing return on your bittering. About 90% of the Alpha Acids have been dispersed by this point. Hops can be bit expensive depending on your recipe and location, so this is why 60 minutes is the average recommended. However, you're correct, as I've seen lower hoped recipes suggest 30-45 minute boils in the past or you don't mind spending a few extra bucks to save some time. Personally, I'm all about minimizing the costs, as my primary reason for brewing is to save money as beer is expensive Canada.
Great insight thank you!
What about using a secondary vessel for lagering? That is useful right? Or do you use other equipment for that?
Just subbed to your channel, I really like it! Greetings from The Netherlands🖐
Hey! I find secondary is only really useful if your adding in stabilizers for backsweetening or if your adding in some unique ingredient. Most cases I’ll later in primary or in the keg
Great video. I have a question on using gelatin. Can I use it to clear my beer if I am bottling??? Or will it F.up the carbonation?? 👍👍
Thanks! You can definitely use any fining agent like gelatin or biofine before bottling, it should not effect carbonation. But just know you will still have some yeast settle out when you bottle condition, so the last sip or two might be yeasty/cloudy
@@TheBruSho thanks for the reply. I like it in a glass anyway. 👍👍🍺 I will send a pic of the the Irish red when it’s done. 🤞
@@johnrockall2016 sounds great!
I don't know if this is a myth, but is it true that when you mill grains after wet conditioning they can't be left overnight? I find it helps a lot with the crush so i still always do it but just adds more time to the brew day. I'd love to do it the day before
I haven’t tested this but I know a few people that wet condition before milling, but not sure about leaving it over night. I guess worry would be that it would become acidic?
Holy shit I don’t know how I missed this 1. For a brewing video it’s nearly viral man congratulations !!!!
Hahah thanks Bradley! 🍺
The beauty of homebrew is the art of the human error and the science of total control of your flavors... then pulling the tap handle and drinking bandaid flavored satisfaction..🤘🔥💪🍻
The one Myth I still follow (and yes, I do know I don't have to) is Secondary. I've transferred since the beginning and the hate I get for it is unbelievable! Especially when those same people see me squeeze my grain bag like it owes me money! People are weird. Excellent vid ... Cheers Sir!
Hahah yeah I mean at the end of the day do what you want, it’s your home brewery. I’ll never understand when people hate on others for that kind of thing
Secondary fermentation is a myth in homebrewing because the conversion step is skipped, which makes secondary fermentation unnecessary. The high temperature recommended in recipes denatures Beta, conversion won't take place, anyway. Homebrew malt is high modified, and for conversion to occur an Alpha-Beta enzyme mixture has to be added to the mash. In homebrewing, the dextrinization, and gelatinization steps are also, skipped.
Bag squeezing helps tremendously, not only are the regular types of goop flushed out, but the extra fine goop is squeezed out, as well. The negative impacts on the final product caused by carry over sludge, excess protein, Beta Glucan, and starch, are myths.
A malt spec sheet comes with every bag of malt, which is used in brewing for determining the quality of malt, before buying malt. In homebrewing, the sheet is nonexistent. Accurate data is a myth and recipes are gospel in homebrewing.
There is supposed to be two numbers on hops, Alpha and Beta. Beta is usually missing on homebrew hops. When the number is missing the quality of hops cannot be determined. Accurate data is a myth and recipes are gospel.
Enzymes work at various temperatures, which became a myth in homebrewing, due to single temperature infusion.
High modified, high protein malt soaked in hot water for an hour at one temperature produces ale, homebrew malt is very special, in someway. The brewing methods that produce pseudo, and authentic ale and lager with brewers grade, under modified, low protein, malt became myths.
You learned how to make home made, distillers beer, renamed real ale, when CAMRA was invented. You see, my brewing compadre, when a person doesn't know the difference between a hay wagon and a Mercedes Benz, a wily, salesman can prey on the persons ignorance, and convince the person that a hay wagon is a Mercedes Benz, and even provide instructions and sell materials to build it.
I was told that Home brewing is way more expensive compared to just hitting the store for beer. So far I have found that to not be true unless you buy very cheap beer or dont have a preference and buy what ever is on sale.
Nice job 👍
Thank you!
AFAIK you should boil for at least 60 min in order to get rid of DMS and prevent off-flavour. This depends on the type of malt but is especially true for pilsners.
As a new brewer I heard most of these things. I’m so happy you cleared it all up
Good! Happy to be of some help!
About the mash and the boil time of 60 minutes: I've done 20, 30, 45 minute mashes and 90 minute mashes. I recommend a 90 minute mash. Better efficiency. And I also recommend a proteinase rest before an amylase rest. I get better efficiency this way. So, every brewer should know his system and what works for him.
Couldn’t agree more. Thank you for sharing your findings!
It's very important to note that I use only German, Weyermann malts. I get a drastic drop in efficiency when I use unmalted grains, like flaked etc. I get a drop in efficiency when I use wheat malts, so that's where I started to see a bump in efficiency from the protein rest, so I am no longer making beer without that protein rest step in the mash. And now I am experimenting with diastatic malts...
Oh, and about the boil times: I've done 20 minute boils and I've never had DMS in my beers. Ever. At any boil times for pilsner malts. There never is a need for a 90 minute boil for pilsner malt wort.
Does hope give the beer it's flavor or is that for color???
The one of not squeezing , is probably if, you stir the mash very much at temperature over 70 degrees cecilus, the grain can make a harsh beer beacause of astrigens (tanins fell out), that is something I have experienced myself. One of my first batches came out very harsh beacause of this. Being aware of this this has never happend to me afterwords. I dont know if squeezing do the same, dont use bags . . , it may be a myth. . . I mash 90 minutes, If I mash only 60 I loos 3-4% effectivity . . .It is a reason why industrial brewers in the "beer country" Germany often mash for 2,5 hours . . . (step mash) :-) Tanks for nice video !
Some great points! Thank you
Wow that sure was a sweet closet setup 👍
Yeah people should go subscribe!
Great video! I am a fan of squeezing the bag!! I get lots of extra gravity points when I do 🍻
Yeah it can’t hurt anything right??
A hydrometer reads pressure, which includes the pressure exerted by carried over goop. The formula for figuring out efficiency is inaccurate. A special gadget is used for determining efficiency, ABV, and attenuation. To make it easy, efficiency is listed on the malt spec sheet that came with the malt that you bought. The only problem is that the guy that sold the malt had no idea that spec sheets come with malt. They're used for determining the quality of malt before a brewer purchases malt.
The homebrew method is the least efficient brewing method. The brewing method produces extract containing mainly, glucose, and depending on the rest temperature, more or less, sweet tasting, nonfermenting types of sugar. The extract lacks fermentable, complex sugars, tasteless, nonfermenting types of sugar, pectin, and a type of protein responsible for foam and head retention. The richest starch in malt, amylopectin, is thrown out with the spent mash in homebrewing, so, efficiency is down the drain.
Well done sir!
Thank you! 🍻
As a lifelong Aquarist and long-time Aquaponist, I have found Ph meters to be more of a pain in the butt, than they are worth. A one-dollar pack of Litmus paper works just fine, and will last you for years.
Dude sorry to bother you but his has really got me interested in the idea a lot as well, as to home brew
7:14 was that even a sip?
More of a zip
There's a myth going around that the alcohol in beer will kill any and all wild micro organisms ( 1:52 ), but it's not true! Hand sanitiser has an alcohol content of at least 60% but preferably 80% or more. Even the acidic environment in beer with still allow the growth of many spoilage bacteria types for example. I think this strange idea is propagated by people who see some yeasts struggle or even die off in high alcohol beers of 10%+ and then assume that all organism's must die off as well but beer yeast is different to bacteria (it's a fungi) and it's alcohol tolerance is very different
Yeah I have heard people say “drink beer to kill the virus”. Just silly!
A friend of mine 'you have to do a secondary'
Me - I've literally never done one outside of my fruited sours.
Haha right!!
Funny thing is, the squeeze the bag thing only applies to brewing...tea...
haha I wonder if thats where that myth originated from..
Myth #1 - it's possible to brew tasty beer without being subscribed to the Genus Brewing Channel.
Thank god! #subscribed!
We all are subscribed to the lobster brewing channel...
Definitely gonna make better beer if you are subscribed Love both you guys homebrew4life too right!
Short mash and boils are banging - shorter brew day
I love it, but now if I do a full 60 min for any reason it feels like forever
Great video Trent! But you didn’t mention that myth that you shouldn’t drink on brew day. Kidding, but yea man, I heard all these same myths so this vid was spot on.
Haha that’s good one! Thanks man
In mead making, probably the biggest myth has to be that raisins are yeast nutrients, it's such a deeply persistent myth
Yeah I have heard that too. Where do all these myths come from??
@@TheBruSho I found something on the subject that says it seems that Joe's Ancient Orange Mead (JAOM) is one of the main sources for its ubiquity in modern mead making, the recipe itself is probably influenced by a recipe from the Mount Vernon library (possibly by Martha Washington), but they don't show up as commonly as people think. One thing about raisins though is that while they have almost no yeast nutrient, what they *can* have is yeast itself, so maybe that could be a reason people used them
What even is a tannin?
For me, its pressure fermenting bottom yeast brews are not real lager (admittedly controversial). Cousin Chad, ha.
Discord link has expired it seems.
Should be good now, thanks for letting me know!
What about, throw away the grain sack after use?
Toss the grain but reuse the bag. It’s good for a lot of batches
@@TheBruSho That's what I hoped. I hate just throwing something away. I saved it. :-D
Why does “Squeezing the bag” sound like something you hide from your family
Lol sounds highly personal when taken out of context
I'm convince tomorrow I will mash for 30' and boil for 30'. 😁😆
The myths in homebrewing became myths because homebrew isn't ale, it is distillers beer, which is made with single temperature infusion, and high modified, high protein, malt.
Since, homebrew and ale are different liquids, made with different brewing methods, things that apply in homebrewing have very little connection with ale and lager.
That's an interesting concept, as you have stated before. I don't get to hung up on this though, to me brewing is brewing and it tastes good to me!
What precisely is "A tonne of bitterness:, please?
Again, a beer video without the use of liquid malt extract. Do you know how much time is saved by using it? and there is no waste. Most large breweries use liquid malt for quality control.
Regarding Efficiency, Mashing for a longer time is at some point even less efficient overall. You might get a higher calculated efficiency, but that doesnt take into account the energy cost and time you put in there. So for bragging its okay but for real efficiency not really.
Great note! Thank you for pointing that out!
👍🏼
Another myth: you dont need to disinfect the hell out of everything you use. I literally never used a sanitizer other than heat in my brewing.
Probably also worth a mention here that i have never had anything go sour or get infected with anything.
@@theblobfish9614 wow that’s impressive. I haven’t heard too many people not sanitizing. Very interesting!
@@TheBruSho well, beer is relatively stable on itself. If i were to brew a light beer with little hops, id be careful, but for an ipa or an imperial stout theres not too big of a risk of infection. As long as your chiller and fermenter are clean nothing can happen really. I mean germs like yeasts and bacteria compete with each other and make the medium uninhabitable for each other. Once you pitch your yeast, the yeast is so much stronger than all the other stuff floating around in there
Yeah, right!!! And you make beer in diaper pails.
@@michaeljames3509 sorry not a native speaker i dont get what you are trying to say
Well this will truly add the Brew to my Hebrew race wouldn't it
Wow they make beer in a closet like where in San Francisco so when they come out of the closet they bring the beer out first so they can celebrate their lifestyle that's funny I d9nt care who you are
If your brewing at home and your a man that would mean we can say that your a He-Brew