I think I've experienced all these off flavors at some point in my early brewing days. It seems like the better we get a brewing, the easier it is to avoid but so easy to expose off flavors so still need to be cautious. Thx for the video!
Great list! My worst off flavor was chlorophenols in a saison that I didn't properly de-chlorinate the water and I covered the boil half the time on what was my second brew ever. The first beer I opened from the batch was oddly spicy with some general weirdness, I looked it up and read that it isn't a flavor that's going to to go away, but still opened one bottle per week for the next several weeks just to see what would happen and indeed it only got worse in subsequent bottles tasting like band-aid soup!! It was a weekly ritual to pour, try a sip, spit it out, pour the rest out. So far never made that mistake again.
Note on the DMS - if you're getting it using Contemporary modified malts then the malt is prolly oxidized/stale. (DMSO is the precursor instead of SMM)
Thanks so much. I've been brewing for about a year and every now and then I'll get this cider/vinegar flavour. I sanitise, I've got a good temp control set up and I still get it about 30 percent of the time.
Great breakdown Trent! No one wants off flavors in their beer, I’ve been wanting to do a beer off flavor tasting experiment using a sensory kit to try and hone my skills.
It is probably better to hone your skills by first, learning how to produce ale and lager, instead of wasting time doing useless experiments that are tied to homemade, distillers beer.
I'd like to add that this isn't always a black or white case. Sometimes these faults can occur in small amounts, making your drink taste cheap and not so smooth rather than flawed.
Other common off-flavors: esters, fusel alcohols, phenols. You don't want esters in lagers; at low fermentation temps US-05 does not produce esters, S-04 does; at high fermentation temps you can't drink a beer made with S-04, but you drink one made with US-05 and it's not the best. Not all yeasts make phenols and you want them in wheat beers, saisons or Belgians. General rule of thumb: ferment ales on the cold side and most esters go away after conditioning, fusel alcohols do not. And those appear if you ferment too hot.
I just did my first brew yesterday. I was very careful in regards to sanitation. Right up until I poured the wort into the carboy. There was an ice cube from the chilling process on the handle of the kettle's spigot I didn't see and it fell to the carboy. Have I ruined my batch and what off-flavors would I notice from this contamination? Thanks for all your great videos, Trent. Keep em coming!
You’re probably okay but just keep an eye out for some of the signs of off flavors. But likely as long as you pitched your yeast shortly after you’ll be fine
That is strange. Not sure exactly. I would probably try brewing with store bought water and see if it’s the water or if it’s something in the equipment. Could be an infection somewhere or just something in the water/pipes.
So brewed an extract peach cider a cpl yrs ago, it was amazing after clarifying and back sweetening. However, I used the fizz drops that came in the kit when I bottled, two weeks later is was so off. Had a great aroma, but tasted sulfur like. I have heard it was the fix drops. What is your opinion? It was great when used in a cocktail and added vodka and sprite persay
Hm I haven’t experienced this before. But I also use priming sugar or corn sugar when bottle conditioning. Not those fizz drops. Maybe reach out to the discord group, someone there might have an idea
Hi, I am a bottler myself, the oxidazation seems my biggest enemy here. at the first week after I bottled it, it already seems good to drink. but the bubble and the hard candy flavor really bun me off. but after two or three weeks it became settled a bit. not sure it's oxidazation or not.
Brewed a stout 10 days ago. First few days of active fermenting in the primary filled the room with some chocolate sweet aromas. However, day 7 in the fermenter when I took a sample for a hydrometer reading, a got a very strong alcohol smell. I've read that this could be from pitching the yeast too early into warm wort. Any thoughts or suggestions?
The only concerning thing I had happen with my brew, my very first brew a week or so ago, is that I had a really hard time getting the wort up to a boil so I could add the malt. It took FOREVER! I finally put the lid on for about 5 minutes and it started to boil then I could keep it at a somewhat rolling boil. Hopefully that won't cause me problems. Any thoughts?
Extract beers can't get DMS because it was already boiled off by the maltser during production. Even then there's no issue with keeping lid on to help it come to a boil. Your beer will still turn out great regardless.
Hm.. if its not done fermenting give it a bit more time, or if its been sitting on yeast too long it could be autolysis. But more likely it just needs a bit of age to mellow out
Sounds a bit like Fusel Alcohol, which is a "cheap alcohol" flavor. Like many others its caused by stressed yeast, usually fermented too hot or low pitch count of yeast. I dont know if there is a way to remove it though, but age can maybe mellow it out
@@TheBruShothanks for replying. I am pretty sure that the beer tastes ok before bottling and the off flavours develop after bottling. All the kits I used state to keep the bottles in a warm place for 10 days to start the carbonation process then move them in a cool place. Maybe 10 days is too much? Any thoughts?
If you release the pressure valve a few times it should help with off gassing the sulfur. But with it being cold and in the keg now it will be harder to get it out
Could be a few things but most likely something in your water. Did you use tap water? Could be over mineralized or something metallic tasting in the source
Thanks for the reply! So, I bought spring water from the store. Also, I read a couple online forums that it could be my equipment. I used a stainless steal mega pot so I don’t think it’s my kettle. Not sure if it could be my wort chiller.🤔 Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. 😊
So what if you kegged the beer before it was done by mistake! And it has that green apple or squash flavoresque! Is it fixable while in the keg already carbed up and everything?! How can you make it better? If possible? Or is it too late? Because ill still drink this dank pale ale if I have too...
Warm up the keg to about 70F for a day or so. Pull the airlock to release the gas and add new pressure. Rinse and repeat until it’s gone. Not guaranteed to always work but it should help
@@TheBruSho so I did what you said! But I let it sit for a week maybe a little more, in the keg at 70-80F heat blanket on keg. Its finally done! And its still very good! It lost its carb during the week but not a problem I just set my psi to 13-15 for 2 days. But thanks! You helped me save this beer!! Its great! Super tropical! All cascade hops and a beautiful light copper color!! Cheers! 🍺
Bad tap water can lead to a lot of off flavors. Most commonly if it has chloramines you will get a bandaid like flavor. But you can use campden tablets to get rid of that. You can also get metallic flavors if your pipes are older. If your tap is no good then go for filtered water from store or distilled and build up your water profile from scratch
@@TheBruSho cheers trent it's a new house in a bad water area, I'll stick to filtered water as it brews a lot better of a beer, and only adds a few £ to the price, its well worth it. Thanks again
@@williampennjr.4448 yeah it will work. Next time using a priming calc. It takes into consideration a few factors about the fermentation that will greatly impact the consistency of carbonation. Tablespoon was probably too little
Your claim that oxidation is less of a problem when bottling is wrong it is actually a bigger problem when you're bottling then keging because when keg you can both do a closed transfer and and purge your kegs headspace free oxygen but there's really no good way of preventing oxidation in bottled beers unless you have higher end equipment to counter pressure fill etc and the yeast will not consume the oxygen fast enough in a secondary fermentation. I have tested this about 10 times with different neipas where I bottled half the batch and keg the other half and after 4-5 weeks all bottles are significantly oxidised while the keg version was still at it's prime 5-6 weeks in
Ok fair enough. I don’t brew NEIPAs so I haven’t ever noticed a big impact on oxidation when bottling. Obviously if your careful you can have good results either way. But NEIPAs are hyper sensitive to oxidation so that makes sense
@@TheBruSho believe me I'm super careful but for this style it doesn't really help that much it may give you a week or two at best but leaving out how it effects such a popular style altogether really seems very flaved the least you should have done is mentioned that this style isn't suitable for bottle conditioning because at the moment that segment is nothing but a total lie
Off flavors occur in homebrewing because the homebrew method does nothing to produce chemically balanced, nutrient rich, stabile, extract. Then, wort, loaded with carried over goop is added into a fermenter, where off flavors develop when yeast is added, more so, when homebrewers use high temperature, fermentation. The off flavors become more pronounced during conditioning. To hide off flavors homebrewers use about three times the hops that are actually needed, then drink the beer in three or four weeks, before the beer deteriorates, and basically, from a secondary fermenter. Have you ever wondered why a bag of imbalanced, high Alpha, low Beta, homebrew hops produce a bunch of different flavors from one variety of hops? Stop already with diacetyl, it's been beaten to death in homebrewing. When beer contains diacetyl, the diacetyl rest is a blow out patch because the precursor is in the wort, and diacetyl returns during storage. When a diacetyl rest is used, beer is krausened, but in homebrewing, beer is artificially carbonated, and drank, green, from a secondary fermenter, and krausen isn't needed. If you are good at making diacetyl, clean up the brewing process to produce more vitamins and nutrients, and use higher quality yeast. A diacetyl test is unnecessary when a decent brewing method, and high quality ingredients are used. I'm not sure if you know this, but there's a group called the IOB that performed every test, and experiment, possible, on malt, and yeast, and started doing it in the late 19th century. The IOB invented the malt spec sheet that comes with every bag of malt and is used by ale and lager brewers, but is unheard of in homebrewing. To save brewers that watch BruShow from wasting time on useless experiments, let them know that abstracts from the IOB are free, online, but their Journals are very expensive, similar to the other info on making ale and lager, much unlike the low cost, poor instructional literature on making homemade beer, that was renamed real ale by marketers.
Appreciate the comment, but I’m just trying to help out the beginner home brewer, I don’t claim to be an expert by any means. I just want to give a very simplified look at brewing. And if someone can make a delicious alcohol beverage in the process then I’m happy, no matter what it’s technically called
I think I've experienced all these off flavors at some point in my early brewing days. It seems like the better we get a brewing, the easier it is to avoid but so easy to expose off flavors so still need to be cautious. Thx for the video!
Yeah good to know what they are and how to prevent! Thanks man!
Great list!
My worst off flavor was chlorophenols in a saison that I didn't properly de-chlorinate the water and I covered the boil half the time on what was my second brew ever. The first beer I opened from the batch was oddly spicy with some general weirdness, I looked it up and read that it isn't a flavor that's going to to go away, but still opened one bottle per week for the next several weeks just to see what would happen and indeed it only got worse in subsequent bottles tasting like band-aid soup!! It was a weekly ritual to pour, try a sip, spit it out, pour the rest out. So far never made that mistake again.
Band aid soup!! Ewwww nasty! Thanks for sharing that!
Definitely a video to share with all my beginning brewing friends. Good to know everyone has off beers at times.
Thank you! 🍻
Note on the DMS - if you're getting it using Contemporary modified malts then the malt is prolly oxidized/stale. (DMSO is the precursor instead of SMM)
Did not know that! Learn something everyday 🌈
Thanks so much. I've been brewing for about a year and every now and then I'll get this cider/vinegar flavour. I sanitise, I've got a good temp control set up and I still get it about 30 percent of the time.
Great breakdown Trent! No one wants off flavors in their beer, I’ve been wanting to do a beer off flavor tasting experiment using a sensory kit to try and hone my skills.
I would love to do that. I think it would be a fun experiment and test for any brewer!
here is a video about how to make your own off flavor kit. ua-cam.com/video/-bflMFJUhoM/v-deo.html
It is probably better to hone your skills by first, learning how to produce ale and lager, instead of wasting time doing useless experiments that are tied to homemade, distillers beer.
@@michaeljames3509 thanks for your input!
Great video. I love the extra cartoons, cut scenes and graphics that you've been adding more of recently.
Ha thanks! Graphics I have some background with but the cartooning is new, you will have to show me how it’s done!
I'd like to add that this isn't always a black or white case. Sometimes these faults can occur in small amounts, making your drink taste cheap and not so smooth rather than flawed.
Very good point! Thank you!
Other common off-flavors: esters, fusel alcohols, phenols. You don't want esters in lagers; at low fermentation temps US-05 does not produce esters, S-04 does; at high fermentation temps you can't drink a beer made with S-04, but you drink one made with US-05 and it's not the best. Not all yeasts make phenols and you want them in wheat beers, saisons or Belgians. General rule of thumb: ferment ales on the cold side and most esters go away after conditioning, fusel alcohols do not. And those appear if you ferment too hot.
Good ones thank you!
Great video - and more importantly, what to do (and not to do)!
Thanks yeah that was the hope, just to give a little insight!
I seriously love your animations!
Thank you!
Still waiting to taste that smooth butter popcorn beer. Great breakdown, cheers!
Haha you know some day that might actually become a thing and I won’t be surprised! Haha
This is the channel I didn't know I needed.
Love to hear it, Thanks!
Super helpful video. Simple approach with tons of useful info! 🍻
Thank you Vlad! 🍻
I just did my first brew yesterday. I was very careful in regards to sanitation. Right up until I poured the wort into the carboy. There was an ice cube from the chilling process on the handle of the kettle's spigot I didn't see and it fell to the carboy. Have I ruined my batch and what off-flavors would I notice from this contamination? Thanks for all your great videos, Trent. Keep em coming!
You’re probably okay but just keep an eye out for some of the signs of off flavors. But likely as long as you pitched your yeast shortly after you’ll be fine
So informative! Great video!
Thank you!!
Great Info easy to understand ! cheers Trent 🍻🍻 🤙🏼
Thank you buddy!
Great video and tips! The best thing for a beer is time!
Yes time heals most wounds!
Except in the case of oxidation
I have had two batches recently with a medicinal flavour, I use well water and no chlorine goes near it. Any ideas why ?
That is strange. Not sure exactly. I would probably try brewing with store bought water and see if it’s the water or if it’s something in the equipment. Could be an infection somewhere or just something in the water/pipes.
3 times in lagers and once in an ale I get a nutty flavor.
Bathwater happens in many brewery runs... I hate it😂, and some ppl try to mask it w extra hops... Man its just as bad
So brewed an extract peach cider a cpl yrs ago, it was amazing after clarifying and back sweetening. However, I used the fizz drops that came in the kit when I bottled, two weeks later is was so off. Had a great aroma, but tasted sulfur like. I have heard it was the fix drops. What is your opinion? It was great when used in a cocktail and added vodka and sprite persay
Hm I haven’t experienced this before. But I also use priming sugar or corn sugar when bottle conditioning. Not those fizz drops. Maybe reach out to the discord group, someone there might have an idea
I like diacethyl in pilsner urquell from the czechs^^
Yeah I think it low enough that it doesn’t bother me there. 🍻
Dont forget to about under fermented wort where your beer tastes like raw hops and wort.
Hi, I am a bottler myself, the oxidazation seems my biggest enemy here. at the first week after I bottled it, it already seems good to drink. but the bubble and the hard candy flavor really bun me off. but after two or three weeks it became settled a bit. not sure it's oxidazation or not.
Brewed a stout 10 days ago. First few days of active fermenting in the primary filled the room with some chocolate sweet aromas. However, day 7 in the fermenter when I took a sample for a hydrometer reading, a got a very strong alcohol smell. I've read that this could be from pitching the yeast too early into warm wort. Any thoughts or suggestions?
Yeah usually caused by fermenting too warm at the start. It could mellow out with time though. Give it a few more days
Drank your Maple wine on the live this morning!
No way sorry I missed it watching the replay now!!
I once brewed a beer that tasted like weak chicken broth. Now that's a strange off flavor. What could have caused that?
That sounds awful. Not sure what exactly what would cause that but I’m guessing some sort of infection
@@TheBruSho I mean. It didn't smell bad, just strange that it could taste like broth.
The only concerning thing I had happen with my brew, my very first brew a week or so ago, is that I had a really hard time getting the wort up to a boil so I could add the malt. It took FOREVER! I finally put the lid on for about 5 minutes and it started to boil then I could keep it at a somewhat rolling boil. Hopefully that won't cause me problems.
Any thoughts?
Extract beers can't get DMS because it was already boiled off by the maltser during production. Even then there's no issue with keeping lid on to help it come to a boil. Your beer will still turn out great regardless.
Dont open the fermenter? I get far cleaner ferments since i open ferment the first days. The yeast enjoys the additional oxigen
Yeah that’s totally ok but after those first few days it’s a bit risky to do
Is there a way to remove yeast taste? What is yeast taste called?
Hm.. if its not done fermenting give it a bit more time, or if its been sitting on yeast too long it could be autolysis. But more likely it just needs a bit of age to mellow out
What about if your beer tastes like it was mixed with Vodka, or very strong alcohol? I only brew from ready-made brewing kits.
Sounds a bit like Fusel Alcohol, which is a "cheap alcohol" flavor. Like many others its caused by stressed yeast, usually fermented too hot or low pitch count of yeast. I dont know if there is a way to remove it though, but age can maybe mellow it out
@@TheBruShothanks for replying.
I am pretty sure that the beer tastes ok before bottling and the off flavours develop after bottling.
All the kits I used state to keep the bottles in a warm place for 10 days to start the carbonation process then move them in a cool place.
Maybe 10 days is too much?
Any thoughts?
@@roymakay3747 That sounds right from what I've always done, but just make sure the warm place isnt too warm, less than 69F ideally
Will sulfur smell go away with aging in the keg? In the cold? Or did I keg too soon?
If you release the pressure valve a few times it should help with off gassing the sulfur. But with it being cold and in the keg now it will be harder to get it out
I don't know which one fits me. I taste it in aftertaste.
Didn't your American light lager have flaked rice, not corn?
Your right good catch, but still. Tasted fine with all that Pilsner malt and short boil
Just brewed a lager and I’m getting a a metallic taste in it. Any idea what might have caused it?
Could be a few things but most likely something in your water. Did you use tap water? Could be over mineralized or something metallic tasting in the source
Thanks for the reply! So, I bought spring water from the store. Also, I read a couple online forums that it could be my equipment. I used a stainless steal mega pot so I don’t think it’s my kettle. Not sure if it could be my wort chiller.🤔 Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. 😊
So what if you kegged the beer before it was done by mistake! And it has that green apple or squash flavoresque! Is it fixable while in the keg already carbed up and everything?! How can you make it better? If possible? Or is it too late? Because ill still drink this dank pale ale if I have too...
Warm up the keg to about 70F for a day or so. Pull the airlock to release the gas and add new pressure. Rinse and repeat until it’s gone. Not guaranteed to always work but it should help
@@TheBruSho hey! Thank you! I will definitely try!! Thought it was doomed..but your telling me their is a chance!!!
@@TheBruSho so I did what you said! But I let it sit for a week maybe a little more, in the keg at 70-80F heat blanket on keg. Its finally done! And its still very good! It lost its carb during the week but not a problem I just set my psi to 13-15 for 2 days. But thanks! You helped me save this beer!! Its great! Super tropical! All cascade hops and a beautiful light copper color!! Cheers! 🍺
@@Identace445 thanks for the update. Glad it helped out a bit!
What would you say the off flavour you get from using not great tap water. I have had this a couple of times it can be overpowering
Bad tap water can lead to a lot of off flavors. Most commonly if it has chloramines you will get a bandaid like flavor. But you can use campden tablets to get rid of that. You can also get metallic flavors if your pipes are older. If your tap is no good then go for filtered water from store or distilled and build up your water profile from scratch
@@TheBruSho cheers trent it's a new house in a bad water area, I'll stick to filtered water as it brews a lot better of a beer, and only adds a few £ to the price, its well worth it. Thanks again
I've come across a baking soda taste a few times. I'm not sure where that's coming from.
Is it more of an metallic taste? Are you using tap water?
@@TheBruSho it's not so much metallic as just a distinct baking soda taste. I am using tap water, and it is from wells here in the Black Hills.
I added sugar to my bottles but the beer remained flat even after a week. I brewed for 10 days so why wasn't carbonation happening?
Sometimes it can take up to 2 weeks. But maybe didn’t add enough sugar. Did you use a priming calculator?
@@TheBruSho oh heck no. I just added about a tablespoon of sugar as suggested.
Will a soda stream machine work?
@@williampennjr.4448 yeah it will work. Next time using a priming calc. It takes into consideration a few factors about the fermentation that will greatly impact the consistency of carbonation. Tablespoon was probably too little
You forgot skunk = lightstruck beer :)
Yeah that’s a big one too! Thanks
Your claim that oxidation is less of a problem when bottling is wrong it is actually a bigger problem when you're bottling then keging because when keg you can both do a closed transfer and and purge your kegs headspace free oxygen but there's really no good way of preventing oxidation in bottled beers unless you have higher end equipment to counter pressure fill etc and the yeast will not consume the oxygen fast enough in a secondary fermentation. I have tested this about 10 times with different neipas where I bottled half the batch and keg the other half and after 4-5 weeks all bottles are significantly oxidised while the keg version was still at it's prime 5-6 weeks in
Ok fair enough. I don’t brew NEIPAs so I haven’t ever noticed a big impact on oxidation when bottling. Obviously if your careful you can have good results either way. But NEIPAs are hyper sensitive to oxidation so that makes sense
@@TheBruSho believe me I'm super careful but for this style it doesn't really help that much it may give you a week or two at best but leaving out how it effects such a popular style altogether really seems very flaved the least you should have done is mentioned that this style isn't suitable for bottle conditioning because at the moment that segment is nothing but a total lie
@@alexanderstahlner583 check out some of my other vids. I’ve talked about the importance of minimizing oxidation in hazys many times before
diacytal is worse than my biological step father!
Hahah!
"Fix" is clickbait. They mean fix your process so it doesn't happen in future. If you already have off-flavours, you can't fix them.
Off flavors occur in homebrewing because the homebrew method does nothing to produce chemically balanced, nutrient rich, stabile, extract. Then, wort, loaded with carried over goop is added into a fermenter, where off flavors develop when yeast is added, more so, when homebrewers use high temperature, fermentation. The off flavors become more pronounced during conditioning. To hide off flavors homebrewers use about three times the hops that are actually needed, then drink the beer in three or four weeks, before the beer deteriorates, and basically, from a secondary fermenter. Have you ever wondered why a bag of imbalanced, high Alpha, low Beta, homebrew hops produce a bunch of different flavors from one variety of hops?
Stop already with diacetyl, it's been beaten to death in homebrewing. When beer contains diacetyl, the diacetyl rest is a blow out patch because the precursor is in the wort, and diacetyl returns during storage. When a diacetyl rest is used, beer is krausened, but in homebrewing, beer is artificially carbonated, and drank, green, from a secondary fermenter, and krausen isn't needed. If you are good at making diacetyl, clean up the brewing process to produce more vitamins and nutrients, and use higher quality yeast. A diacetyl test is unnecessary when a decent brewing method, and high quality ingredients are used.
I'm not sure if you know this, but there's a group called the IOB that performed every test, and experiment, possible, on malt, and yeast, and started doing it in the late 19th century. The IOB invented the malt spec sheet that comes with every bag of malt and is used by ale and lager brewers, but is unheard of in homebrewing. To save brewers that watch BruShow from wasting time on useless experiments, let them know that abstracts from the IOB are free, online, but their Journals are very expensive, similar to the other info on making ale and lager, much unlike the low cost, poor instructional literature on making homemade beer, that was renamed real ale by marketers.
Appreciate the comment, but I’m just trying to help out the beginner home brewer, I don’t claim to be an expert by any means. I just want to give a very simplified look at brewing. And if someone can make a delicious alcohol beverage in the process then I’m happy, no matter what it’s technically called