Your video is really helpful, thank you. I'm a public school teacher in Florida who is lucky enough to have a house but I have to do al of my own work on it since the contractor quotes are so high from all the cash buyers here. Anyways, want to install a whole new irrigation system and I'm not sure what shut-off panel I need if I want to be able to cut power to both a 120v Controller (Rainbird Tm2) and the power to the pump (220v 1.5hp pump connected to a start-relay). What panel for cutting power to both of those can I use? I need a wiring diagram for it please. Where should I learn how to do this? I'm comfortable with doing electrical repairs but just don't know what to set up for first time irrigation.
Hey there. Thanks for the question. Clarification though first. You use the phrase electrical panel. Are you referring to an electrical breaker panel or something else? First, the electrical side and the plumbing side are two totally different elements of the irrigation system. Your timer should be plugged into a standard outlet, indoors or out depending on the style you have. The well pump is on a totally different breaker, probably of its own, like your AC. These two should not mix. The plumbing for your new system should originate downstream from your pressure or bladder tank. Create your valve assembly and bring your irrigation timer wire to the valve assembly, from the timer. This is the short version and I hope I didn’t insult your intelligence. I got confused in your words of “panel”. Let me know how else I can help. You can email me pics of the existing situation and we can discuss further. Email is listed or spoke about in the video. Thanks. Coach Matt.
I had to cut the 6 red wires running through my yard to reroute them a different direction. Is there a way to figure out which wire which goes with which? I don’t label them and I don’t have access to the start and finish of each wire.
Thanks for the question. My first response is Uh Oh. but in thinking more about it there is a solution. It may be easier to re connect all your red wires, then, test them using the timer, then re arrange the wires at the timer to conform the way you want them. In other words, zone 4 right now is blah blah blah, but re connecting it now runs a different part of the yard. Write it down zone by zone, then go back and make zone 4 what it used to be. Or live with the new configurations. This is the problem with just 1 color systems. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Incoming lines, fixture line and outgoing long all get wire nutted together. Continue to the end fixture where only incoming line and fixture line are present and connected. Thx for watching hope we earned a SUB. Coach.
I have a question! I have 13 zones in my yard, BUT the sprinklers valves are located throughtout the yard. I understand the color coded wire at the main box and the wiring for each zone. So if you have the first 3 spinkerler valves 8 inches apart from each other, BUT valves 4,5,6 are 30 feet away, How do you wire those. Then if you have sprinklers valves 7,8,9 another 40 feet away, How do you wire those, and so on? Many videos in UA-cam just place their attention on Manifold Valves near each other, BUT I have yet not seen any video that shows how to wire spinkler valves that are 10, 20 , 30 feet away from each other, Please advise. I hope I did not confusa you...Thank you and God Bless!
Good question. In order to accomplish your wiring goal is through the use of a LONG common wire or pigtail. Wire the valves as you have seen but the common wire will be 1 long wire that you will group your commons at each valve cluster. Then that common wire will run to your next valve cluster, repeat and finally that 1 common wire will end up at your timer. Now, if your valves are spaced to wide at each cluster you may have to create a minor pigtail wire to connect all 3, then connect that small pigtail to your LONG common wire. It sounds complicated but it is pretty straight forward. Just a few extra steps and wire. If you need more clarification email me.
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This is a great video! This is exactly what I was looking for! Your encouragement was so fantastic!
Thanks Cindy. Hope it helps with whatever project you under take.
Great video and straight-forward information. Much appreciated.
Thank you. Hope it helped.
Your video is really helpful, thank you. I'm a public school teacher in Florida who is lucky enough to have a house but I have to do al of my own work on it since the contractor quotes are so high from all the cash buyers here. Anyways, want to install a whole new irrigation system and I'm not sure what shut-off panel I need if I want to be able to cut power to both a 120v Controller (Rainbird Tm2) and the power to the pump (220v 1.5hp pump connected to a start-relay). What panel for cutting power to both of those can I use? I need a wiring diagram for it please. Where should I learn how to do this? I'm comfortable with doing electrical repairs but just don't know what to set up for first time irrigation.
Hey there. Thanks for the question. Clarification though first. You use the phrase electrical panel. Are you referring to an electrical breaker panel or something else? First, the electrical side and the plumbing side are two totally different elements of the irrigation system. Your timer should be plugged into a standard outlet, indoors or out depending on the style you have. The well pump is on a totally different breaker, probably of its own, like your AC. These two should not mix.
The plumbing for your new system should originate downstream from your pressure or bladder tank. Create your valve assembly and bring your irrigation timer wire to the valve assembly, from the timer. This is the short version and I hope I didn’t insult your intelligence. I got confused in your words of “panel”. Let me know how else I can help. You can email me pics of the existing situation and we can discuss further. Email is listed or spoke about in the video. Thanks. Coach Matt.
@@YardCoach Hi there! Thank you. I will find your email and send you a message. I appreciate you!
I had to cut the 6 red wires running through my yard to reroute them a different direction. Is there a way to figure out which wire which goes with which? I don’t label them and I don’t have access to the start and finish of each wire.
Thanks for the question. My first response is Uh Oh. but in thinking more about it there is a solution. It may be easier to re connect all your red wires, then, test them using the timer, then re arrange the wires at the timer to conform the way you want them. In other words, zone 4 right now is blah blah blah, but re connecting it now runs a different part of the yard. Write it down zone by zone, then go back and make zone 4 what it used to be. Or live with the new configurations. This is the problem with just 1 color systems. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
If you hardwire to the first fixture how do you run line to the next one?
Incoming lines, fixture line and outgoing long all get wire nutted together. Continue to the end fixture where only incoming line and fixture line are present and connected.
Thx for watching hope we earned a SUB. Coach.
I have a question! I have 13 zones in my yard, BUT the sprinklers valves are located throughtout the yard. I understand the color coded wire at the main box and the wiring for each zone. So if you have the first 3 spinkerler valves 8 inches apart from each other, BUT valves 4,5,6 are 30 feet away, How do you wire those. Then if you have sprinklers valves 7,8,9 another 40 feet away, How do you wire those, and so on? Many videos in UA-cam just place their attention on Manifold Valves near each other, BUT I have yet not seen any video that shows how to wire spinkler valves that are 10, 20 , 30 feet away from each other, Please advise. I hope I did not confusa you...Thank you and God Bless!
Good question. In order to accomplish your wiring goal is through the use of a LONG common wire or pigtail.
Wire the valves as you have seen but the common wire will be 1 long wire that you will group your commons at each valve cluster. Then that common wire will run to your next valve cluster, repeat and finally that 1 common wire will end up at your timer.
Now, if your valves are spaced to wide at each cluster you may have to create a minor pigtail wire to connect all 3, then connect that small pigtail to your LONG common wire.
It sounds complicated but it is pretty straight forward. Just a few extra steps and wire.
If you need more clarification email me.