ALSO IMPORTANT to Note: After re-installing/replacing the chain and before using it...(before you start it or use it) take your hand and safely grasp the chain, then manually rotate the chain around the bar to make sure it rotates and slides freely with no obstruction or hangup. If it hangs up or does not rotate freely/smoothly, then something is not correct. Take it apart again and try the install procedure again, if not able to install properly then take it to a local repair shop and seek their advice. ***Make sure the chain brake is disengaged or it will not rotate
this was exactly what I needed to know! it was a great video bc the same thing happened to me trying to put the Bar cover back on. I couldn't get the chain tensioning screw to line up with the pin hole! awesome video and comment. thank you!
This did it. Our chain kept slipping off. Your excellent, step-by-step instructions were easy to follow and showed me several things I was doing incorrectly. Now, our saw works as intended. Thank you so much!🥰
Thank you. Just got my saw yesterday and today the chain came off. Couldn't get the cover back on to save my life. Thanks for explaining about the adjustment screw hole. Every other video expects you to know this.
Also the brake/kick back lever has to be in the off position or pushed back for the side cover to go back on. You can take it off with the brake on/activated so its confusing when it doesn't go back on. Not knowing that part can be very frustrating when putting it back on. If you throw a chain I would suggest its from either torquing the saw at an angle when cutting instead of keeping the chain and bar straight in the cut line you are making. Also, to much chain slack can cause it to come off the bar of course. The saw I bought just before the craftsman, the chain came off and buggered up the bar. I was cutting at a off angle from my original cut line, twisting the bar. Also if you are cutting a limb that is under tension and the weight of the limb 1/2-3/4 way into your cut pinches down on the chain and bar, that circumstance and cause issues. Reliefs cuts are the way to go to sometimes avoid this or cut from underneath depending on where the direction pof the tension is. There's lots to learn involving physics and forces. Small branches and small jobs require less pre knowledge. Most of my cutting is small scale as I am not a highly skilled, veteran saw user.
@@GettingthruLife I'm confused. When you say the brake has to be pushed back, do you mean pulled back? Or pushed forward. I just got that chain on. Took me over an hour. I'm not sure how I did it either...hahaha. I was screwing the adjustement screw in or out, and somehow got it to work. The screw wasn't lineing up with the hole at all. So I don't know what I did to make it work. After I took the cover off, I didn't mess with anything. Excepet taking the bar and chain off. The problem started as soon as I put that cover on. It just wouldn't go down. Thank you so much for helping me. Oh, I think I let the chain go slack. The instructions say you have to adjust it frequently during the first few uses. I forgot to monitor that.
@@minkymott The brake when pulled back deactivates it. When you push it forward it applies the brake. This was over a years ago, maybe 2 that I made the video and was dealing with this so my memory is fuzzy. Back then I took the side cover off to clean the under that area and the chain brake was on. I never/rarely use this as a manual feature myself but it was on. I fought with mine for an hour until I figured it out why it wasn't going back together. One tip I did learn online is when finishing up the what-ever-you are doing with chain and bar, before you tighten down the two nuts to secure the bar, hold your saw at the handle and put the tip of the bar with chain on the edge of the table so that it applies pressure to push the tip upwards, then tighten the nuts to lock the bar into place. then I check chain tension. the correct chain tension is when you grab the bottom portion of the chain, middel of the bar and you pull down on the chain. The chain guide links, opposite side of the cutter teeth, the one or 2 closest to you fingers should just be or slightly more past the edge of the bar. when you pulling down with some force on the chain. when you release the chain it should not be hanging with really much gap of the chain from the bar. (once a couple of the guide teeth/links find their way out of the bar, that's when your chain can run off the bar. ua-cam.com/video/D1T5qLra0wE/v-deo.html www.oregonproducts.com/en/product-support/chainsaw/saw-chain-terminology/c/saw-chain-terminology-s
@@minkymott Another good, simple chain tension video. when i pull down on my chain after my adjustment is made, I pull down on my chain with some force where the chain guide link teeth (one closest to my hand is just right at the edge of the bar. whenyou release the chain, the chain guide link should disappear back up into the guide track of the bar.
I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
I have this saw. Getting the chain right and then then tensioner rod in the hole is an art. Decent home use saw but its a pain. Keep it really clean. It also hates cutting low on gas sideways. It needed a much bigger tank.
Manual states...being able to pull the lower chain down enough to just have the drive link at the edge of the bar. Much more chain skack than that can allow the chain to come out of the chain groove in different cutting situations and ruin the chain and the bar plus potential danger to the user Another respected small engine, power equipment UA-camr I like that is way more knowledgeable than I, states too that when checking chainsaw chain tension, the bar needs to flexed/positioned upwards as much as the saw brand allows as when cutting that's how the position well be a d therefore chain tension/slack will be most correct. People can claim/do whatever they want to their saws but I'm going g to stick to these guidelines and have for many years. Still using the same chain that came on the saw from years ago, plus it came with an extra Oregon brand chain.
I just changed mine and when re assembling, had some trouble getting that little adjustment pin to align into the hole on bar, which was preventing the cover from going down all the way. I realized I had to turn the adjustment screw until the pin aligned with the hole, then everything popped into place. Thought this may help someone else who runs into the same issue.Took me some time to figure it out. BTW how do you keep your workbench so clean? haha
Yes, I have had to pay attention to that too when disassembling. A definite detail that has to be done. Basically just have to loosen up that adjustment 3 turns from the get go. As far as keeping the garage and work area tiddy I try to stay sort of on top of that because if it gets out of hand then easier to stay that way.
As noted when you take the cover off you need to have the chain brake off/pulled backwards. If the chain breaks is left on, the cover with lever won't go back on until the brake/kickback lever released.
Awesome! I'm not a professional lumber jack, forester, certified chainsaw shop mechanic or a lawn care shop owner but this stuff is pretty straight forward if you've grown up around or doing activities like this or similar. I found out through person experience that it's better to err on running the chain marginally tighter then on the loose and sloppy side. Never run it tight but as per this saw's manual you want the lower guides/drive links to not pull completely out of the bar channel/guide bar rail when you pull away.
Thats a good qustion as I'm not that much of a chainsaw guru to know typically how many links needed per bar length. My chainsaw came with two chains which was nice. I'm going to go out and look at the other chain in it plasctic bag. OK, its a Oregon chain...(says made in China), model # 91PX062X / drive links #62. website info: www.lowes.com/pd/Oregon-Oregon-S62-AdvanceCut-Chainsaw-Chain-for-18-Inch-Bar-62-Drive-Links-8211-low-kickback-chain-fits-Husqvarna-Echo-Poulan-Craftsman-Echo-and-more/5013048881?store=&cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-sol-_-ggl-_-PMAX_SOL_000_Priority_Items-_-5013048881-_-online-_-0-_-0&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjNS3BhChARIsAOxBM6qr2rkWCH6GPHkrYPS8z5xl0NmrNm9il5OlnpQrUGO6naWK51ILr94aAlcXEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Doing some more research for the Lowes website: Oregon branded 16" bar chain is 56 links . www.lowes.com/pd/Oregon-Oregon-S56-AdvanceCut-Chainsaw-Chain-for-16-Inch-Bar-56-Drive-Links-8211-low-kickback-chain-fits-Makita-Echo-Husqvarna-and-more/5013048871
Great video,when you start to adjust chain tension put something (piece of wood ) under the tip of the bar that is a bit taller when bar is tilted all the way up,adjust your tension and tighten the 2 bar nuts.
Great idea, yea I've seen you/users want the bar positioned/angled up because when you use the saw and apply pressure to cut down, the bar flexes in that upward direction and therefore the chain tension changes slightly. (For folks that aren't chainsaw gurus, I'm not one of them but I do learn on my own, the bar has a range of movement up and down when loosened)
As you stated always go by the recommended guidelines of the manual. As for the tension, yours seems too loose per correct cold tension diagram showing the chain snuggly against the underside of the guide bar and when the chain warms up there should be approximately 1/16 inch out of the guide bar groove. I mainly watched the video to see the proper fitting of the chain around drive sprocket which you may or may not have correctly installed the chain. You didn’t test and show your end results. I’ve installed the chain on the same saw and have missed the grooves in the sprocket. Not trying to be negative. I give it a thumbs up for the effort thanks.
My saw works/always works. Starts on 2-3 pulls even of sit for a year. No misaligned chain by me. On youtube if you go into much time/detail people complain too. Enjoy your craftsman saw.
wonderful, glad you found what I make entertaining or helpful. Thanks for letting me know. Some people's comments can have a negative effect and make it not as fun/enjoyable to make/share videos
Cool, wish I would have made note in the video that the chain brake lever can if activated can make things difficult to pull apart/remove cover. This happened to me in the beginning and I got sort of frustrated until it dawned on me. Glad you found value in my video.
Also, keep tabs on the chain tension per what the manual specifies because it is not as loose as most people will claim you need to run. I've gotten lots of grief from know it all people here. When the chain come off it can mess up the saw's bar fine groove the chain rides in, and the bars rollers/sprockets. I know because I bought a home Depot brand chainsaw before this one and the chain came off and the bar/chain got ruined. Home Depot took it back the same day. Also important to make sure your chain is getting oil enough by the auto depends chain oiler. Lack of chain/bar oil will prematurely wear out those parts. I watched videos. One video suggested run the saw wide open while keeping the end of the bar/chain near a light colored object and look for bar oil splatter. I couldn't get my saw to release this amount of oil but I found the video interesting.
I've used this saw it's a beast in the heat to get right the sprocket is a pain and the tool is slippery from chain oil and you can easily put chain on backwards between getting a new chain out of the pack and unwinding the kinks out from the package. Woosaaahhhh is what your gonna need friends.....lol and don't burn your fingers when your in a hurry changing blade and keep oil bar filled goes quick and it stops when mix is low.....may the force be with you friends 😅
Thanks for sharing. This could sum up all chainsaws and tools. I haven't encountered negative issues with mine but I'm not a heavy user. My suggestion is maybe needs more torque/power.
@@GettingthruLife it does but I cut a...I know it had to be 4 1/4 feet in circumference and it got very hot and was 20 feet tall. It's not a bad saw for the money for sure
Loved the video, very informative. My small piece of feedback to help grow your channel is to try to be as brief as possible. I think the video could cover everything mentioned in less than 12 minutes.
You should be able to purchase a longer bar and an appropriately sized chain for that chainsaw bar. Going from a 14 to 18" is not a big jump but going from a 14" with its motor size likely wouldn't be good to attach a 25" bar and chain. Google search supports this data. Just keep in mind that with the longer bar and chain setup, those models' motor size almost always increases.
I would assume you could run a bar like an Oregon brand but to be 100 percent sure you would need to contact them. Sucks that the craftsman brand tanked after so many years. I'm not sure who bought Craftsman. You could always take you old bar to Home depot and put it up against the Oregon brand and compare as well.
Don't know about more recently, but a few years ago Craftsman were rebadged Poulan / McCulloch models slight differences. A lot of components shared across Husqvarna group products. Many after market bar tails are compatible for homeowner use. Some share tensioner mount hole with oiler, others separate. Check chain pitch & gauge are same as original. Each time take chain off to sharpen, turn bar over. Have 2 or 3 chains, use in turn as they dull & sharpen. Ensures parts wear out at similar rate. When not in use store saw chain in a tub of chain oil. Hang off nail to allow excess to drip. Reduces damage when first installed for use & till oil reaches the bar groove from the pump. Messed with cheap saws for many years, not worth taking to shop for repairs, maintainance. Hope of help to you
@turtlesoup900 i would make sure you have the chain running in the right direction. Happens a lot. Look up videos "mount chainsaw chain in the right direction" if you need help to clarify.
Also, I think if your chain brake is on you can't pull the red side cover off to replace the chain. his mayb e your problem. This just came to me as I recall having run into this too. Chain brake is the black handle push forward or pull back. Try pulling it back.
The only thing I can think of if it was once working and now it's out of alignment is you need to play with the alignment adjustment to get it to go back together. ***Also, with the brake/kickback bar activated things will not go back together. Release the brake (black grab bar) that keeps the bar/chain from spinning freely. This is likely your problem. Hope this rights the problem. If not, need to take it to local repair shop and let them advise you further.
@@jonathinosborn6025 not 100% the guaranteed fix but likely what's happening. Need to push the brake handle toward the direction of the rear of the saw.
You probably should have mentioned once cover is “partially” back on that you may need to push or pull safety bar back so the large coil can fit around clutch and yes rotate chain to make sure all chain on bar
I read your 1st reply and you appear to be just one of those critics. You don't like the video because it wasn't done specifically to your needs or you found a problem with it then by all means go and make your own video with your own craftsman saw.
You left out what direction the chain goes.... because you can put the chain on backwards the teeth go a certain direction rotating on the bar.Then putting your saw together and wasting time and may create frustration..... Because it will not cut😂.... But the video hasn't ended yet but we will see if you leave that out ...
ALSO IMPORTANT to Note: After re-installing/replacing the chain and before using it...(before you start it or use it) take your hand and safely grasp the chain, then manually rotate the chain around the bar to make sure it rotates and slides freely with no obstruction or hangup. If it hangs up or does not rotate freely/smoothly, then something is not correct. Take it apart again and try the install procedure again, if not able to install properly then take it to a local repair shop and seek their advice. ***Make sure the chain brake is disengaged or it will not rotate
I was waiting for that part in the video! Lol, oh well...
this was exactly what I needed to know! it was a great video bc the same thing happened to me trying to put the Bar cover back on. I couldn't get the chain tensioning screw to line up with the pin hole! awesome video and comment. thank you!
Where is the chain brake
@@Corkygene images.app.goo.gl/4aevAymnQ9oE7aAa8
This did it. Our chain kept slipping off. Your excellent, step-by-step instructions were easy to follow and showed me several things I was doing incorrectly. Now, our saw works as intended. Thank you so much!🥰
Thanks for taking your time to let me know the video helped. A few people can be so negative at different times.
Thank you. Just got my saw yesterday and today the chain came off. Couldn't get the cover back on to save my life. Thanks for explaining about the adjustment screw hole. Every other video expects you to know this.
Also the brake/kick back lever has to be in the off position or pushed back for the side cover to go back on. You can take it off with the brake on/activated so its confusing when it doesn't go back on. Not knowing that part can be very frustrating when putting it back on. If you throw a chain I would suggest its from either torquing the saw at an angle when cutting instead of keeping the chain and bar straight in the cut line you are making. Also, to much chain slack can cause it to come off the bar of course. The saw I bought just before the craftsman, the chain came off and buggered up the bar. I was cutting at a off angle from my original cut line, twisting the bar. Also if you are cutting a limb that is under tension and the weight of the limb 1/2-3/4 way into your cut pinches down on the chain and bar, that circumstance and cause issues. Reliefs cuts are the way to go to sometimes avoid this or cut from underneath depending on where the direction pof the tension is. There's lots to learn involving physics and forces. Small branches and small jobs require less pre knowledge. Most of my cutting is small scale as I am not a highly skilled, veteran saw user.
@@GettingthruLife I'm confused. When you say the brake has to be pushed back, do you mean pulled back? Or pushed forward. I just got that chain on. Took me over an hour. I'm not sure how I did it either...hahaha. I was screwing the adjustement screw in or out, and somehow got it to work. The screw wasn't lineing up with the hole at all. So I don't know what I did to make it work. After I took the cover off, I didn't mess with anything. Excepet taking the bar and chain off. The problem started as soon as I put that cover on. It just wouldn't go down. Thank you so much for helping me. Oh, I think I let the chain go slack. The instructions say you have to adjust it frequently during the first few uses. I forgot to monitor that.
@@minkymott The brake when pulled back deactivates it. When you push it forward it applies the brake. This was over a years ago, maybe 2 that I made the video and was dealing with this so my memory is fuzzy. Back then I took the side cover off to clean the under that area and the chain brake was on. I never/rarely use this as a manual feature myself but it was on. I fought with mine for an hour until I figured it out why it wasn't going back together.
One tip I did learn online is when finishing up the what-ever-you are doing with chain and bar, before you tighten down the two nuts to secure the bar, hold your saw at the handle and put the tip of the bar with chain on the edge of the table so that it applies pressure to push the tip upwards, then tighten the nuts to lock the bar into place. then I check chain tension. the correct chain tension is when you grab the bottom portion of the chain, middel of the bar and you pull down on the chain. The chain guide links, opposite side of the cutter teeth, the one or 2 closest to you fingers should just be or slightly more past the edge of the bar. when you pulling down with some force on the chain. when you release the chain it should not be hanging with really much gap of the chain from the bar. (once a couple of the guide teeth/links find their way out of the bar, that's when your chain can run off the bar. ua-cam.com/video/D1T5qLra0wE/v-deo.html
www.oregonproducts.com/en/product-support/chainsaw/saw-chain-terminology/c/saw-chain-terminology-s
@@minkymott Another good, simple chain tension video. when i pull down on my chain after my adjustment is made, I pull down on my chain with some force where the chain guide link teeth (one closest to my hand is just right at the edge of the bar. whenyou release the chain, the chain guide link should disappear back up into the guide track of the bar.
@@GettingthruLife thank you.
I was running this saw for about 2 hours at about a 30-50% duty cycle ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and it did a great job. I used the lever for the built in sharpener to clear chip buildup out more than to actually sharpen the chain. It managed to cut some hardwood stumps much larger than it's size without bothering the neighbors with hours of 2 stroke noise.
I have this saw. Getting the chain right and then then tensioner rod in the hole is an art. Decent home use saw but its a pain. Keep it really clean. It also hates cutting low on gas sideways. It needed a much bigger tank.
Manual states...being able to pull the lower chain down enough to just have the drive link at the edge of the bar. Much more chain skack than that can allow the chain to come out of the chain groove in different cutting situations and ruin the chain and the bar plus potential danger to the user
Another respected small engine, power equipment UA-camr I like that is way more knowledgeable than I, states too that when checking chainsaw chain tension, the bar needs to flexed/positioned upwards as much as the saw brand allows as when cutting that's how the position well be a d therefore chain tension/slack will be most correct.
People can claim/do whatever they want to their saws but I'm going g to stick to these guidelines and have for many years. Still using the same chain that came on the saw from years ago, plus it came with an extra Oregon brand chain.
Thank you so much for the info and the authenticity of your video.
I just changed mine and when re assembling, had some trouble getting that little adjustment pin to align into the hole on bar, which was preventing the cover from going down all the way. I realized I had to turn the adjustment screw until the pin aligned with the hole, then everything popped into place. Thought this may help someone else who runs into the same issue.Took me some time to figure it out. BTW how do you keep your workbench so clean? haha
Yes, I have had to pay attention to that too when disassembling. A definite detail that has to be done. Basically just have to loosen up that adjustment 3 turns from the get go. As far as keeping the garage and work area tiddy I try to stay sort of on top of that because if it gets out of hand then easier to stay that way.
*Really good thorough video! Thanks for the help! Got my new chain on my Craftsman 20" chainsaw*
Thanks for feedback. I try to help others from things I learn or have some experience with. UA-cam video is a excellent resource.
@@GettingthruLife *Indeed it is! When you help someone, you help everyone brother! Subscribed!*
As noted when you take the cover off you need to have the chain brake off/pulled backwards. If the chain breaks is left on, the cover with lever won't go back on until the brake/kickback lever released.
Thanks man really helped a first time chain saw owner
Very helpful video. I thought I knew what I was doing and you confirmed it. Thank you Sir
Awesome! I'm not a professional lumber jack, forester, certified chainsaw shop mechanic or a lawn care shop owner but this stuff is pretty straight forward if you've grown up around or doing activities like this or similar. I found out through person experience that it's better to err on running the chain marginally tighter then on the loose and sloppy side. Never run it tight but as per this saw's manual you want the lower guides/drive links to not pull completely out of the bar channel/guide bar rail when you pull away.
What size chain did you get for it? I have a 16" bar and got the recommended one, but yours has more slack than mine.
Thats a good qustion as I'm not that much of a chainsaw guru to know typically how many links needed per bar length. My chainsaw came with two chains which was nice. I'm going to go out and look at the other chain in it plasctic bag. OK, its a Oregon chain...(says made in China), model # 91PX062X / drive links #62.
website info: www.lowes.com/pd/Oregon-Oregon-S62-AdvanceCut-Chainsaw-Chain-for-18-Inch-Bar-62-Drive-Links-8211-low-kickback-chain-fits-Husqvarna-Echo-Poulan-Craftsman-Echo-and-more/5013048881?store=&cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-sol-_-ggl-_-PMAX_SOL_000_Priority_Items-_-5013048881-_-online-_-0-_-0&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwjNS3BhChARIsAOxBM6qr2rkWCH6GPHkrYPS8z5xl0NmrNm9il5OlnpQrUGO6naWK51ILr94aAlcXEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Doing some more research for the Lowes website: Oregon branded 16" bar chain is 56 links .
www.lowes.com/pd/Oregon-Oregon-S56-AdvanceCut-Chainsaw-Chain-for-16-Inch-Bar-56-Drive-Links-8211-low-kickback-chain-fits-Makita-Echo-Husqvarna-and-more/5013048871
Great video,when you start to adjust chain tension put something (piece of wood ) under the tip of the bar that is a bit taller when bar is tilted all the way up,adjust your tension and tighten the 2 bar nuts.
Great idea, yea I've seen you/users want the bar positioned/angled up because when you use the saw and apply pressure to cut down, the bar flexes in that upward direction and therefore the chain tension changes slightly. (For folks that aren't chainsaw gurus, I'm not one of them but I do learn on my own, the bar has a range of movement up and down when loosened)
As you stated always go by the recommended guidelines of the manual. As for the tension, yours seems too loose per correct cold tension diagram showing the chain snuggly against the underside of the guide bar and when the chain warms up there should be approximately 1/16 inch out of the guide bar groove. I mainly watched the video to see the proper fitting of the chain around drive sprocket which you may or may not have correctly installed the chain. You didn’t test and show your end results. I’ve installed the chain on the same saw and have missed the grooves in the sprocket. Not trying to be negative. I give it a thumbs up for the effort thanks.
My saw works/always works. Starts on 2-3 pulls even of sit for a year. No misaligned chain by me. On youtube if you go into much time/detail people complain too. Enjoy your craftsman saw.
Thank you so much. Much appreciated made my life a little easier
wonderful, glad you found what I make entertaining or helpful. Thanks for letting me know. Some people's comments can have a negative effect and make it not as fun/enjoyable to make/share videos
Thanks for the video. Very helpful!
Thank you for the video. Brand new Craftsman 14” chainsaw. Chain fell off. Followed your video. It’s working beautifully.
Cool, wish I would have made note in the video that the chain brake lever can if activated can make things difficult to pull apart/remove cover. This happened to me in the beginning and I got sort of frustrated until it dawned on me. Glad you found value in my video.
Also, keep tabs on the chain tension per what the manual specifies because it is not as loose as most people will claim you need to run. I've gotten lots of grief from know it all people here.
When the chain come off it can mess up the saw's bar fine groove the chain rides in, and the bars rollers/sprockets. I know because I bought a home Depot brand chainsaw before this one and the chain came off and the bar/chain got ruined. Home Depot took it back the same day. Also important to make sure your chain is getting oil enough by the auto depends chain oiler. Lack of chain/bar oil will prematurely wear out those parts. I watched videos. One video suggested run the saw wide open while keeping the end of the bar/chain near a light colored object and look for bar oil splatter. I couldn't get my saw to release this amount of oil but I found the video interesting.
I've used this saw it's a beast in the heat to get right the sprocket is a pain and the tool is slippery from chain oil and you can easily put chain on backwards between getting a new chain out of the pack and unwinding the kinks out from the package. Woosaaahhhh is what your gonna need friends.....lol and don't burn your fingers when your in a hurry changing blade and keep oil bar filled goes quick and it stops when mix is low.....may the force be with you friends 😅
Thanks for sharing. This could sum up all chainsaws and tools. I haven't encountered negative issues with mine but I'm not a heavy user. My suggestion is maybe needs more torque/power.
@@GettingthruLife it does but I cut a...I know it had to be 4 1/4 feet in circumference and it got very hot and was 20 feet tall. It's not a bad saw for the money for sure
It would be helpful to know which way the chain goes on there, like which way the edges should be facing 😊
It goes in the right direction when cutting wood is easier:) Would you honestly like/find helpful if I made a video?
The chainsaw literally will have a directional inlay near the end of the bar showing which way the chain goes. They all have this.
Loved the video, very informative. My small piece of feedback to help grow your channel is to try to be as brief as possible. I think the video could cover everything mentioned in less than 12 minutes.
For sure...I agree. I've been working towards this as I've made more videos.
Awesome job...thanks for your help..!!
Glad it helped!
Excellent video. Well done. Thank you..!
Super cool! Thanks for your feedback.
How is this saw holding up for you? I just bought this exact saw yesterday
It's still a pleasure to use: ua-cam.com/video/q-8D04NX6pY/v-deo.html
My is a 14 inches can I change to a 18 inch? Good video
You should be able to purchase a longer bar and an appropriately sized chain for that chainsaw bar. Going from a 14 to 18" is not a big jump but going from a 14" with its motor size likely wouldn't be good to attach a 25" bar and chain. Google search supports this data. Just keep in mind that with the longer bar and chain setup, those models' motor size almost always increases.
Does the bar have to be Craftsman or can any other bar 20inch be used?
I would assume you could run a bar like an Oregon brand but to be 100 percent sure you would need to contact them. Sucks that the craftsman brand tanked after so many years. I'm not sure who bought Craftsman. You could always take you old bar to Home depot and put it up against the Oregon brand and compare as well.
Don't know about more recently, but a few years ago Craftsman were rebadged Poulan / McCulloch models slight differences. A lot of components shared across Husqvarna group products. Many after market bar tails are compatible for homeowner use. Some share tensioner mount hole with oiler, others separate.
Check chain pitch & gauge are same as original. Each time take chain off to sharpen, turn bar over.
Have 2 or 3 chains, use in turn as they dull & sharpen. Ensures parts wear out at similar rate. When not in use store saw chain in a tub of chain oil. Hang off nail to allow excess to drip. Reduces damage when first installed for use & till oil reaches the bar groove from the pump. Messed with cheap saws for many years, not worth taking to shop for repairs, maintainance.
Hope of help to you
Followed all the steps and still won’t cut with new chain, why so difficult to replace a chain?
@turtlesoup900 i would make sure you have the chain running in the right direction. Happens a lot. Look up videos "mount chainsaw chain in the right direction" if you need help to clarify.
@@turtlesoup900 ua-cam.com/video/YmVOq6JUTbE/v-deo.htmlsi=KOlbT0_kZ0b0K7q1
Nice job! Thank you.
Cool, thank you for dropping me a comment.
having trouble getting that red plastic piece off, took off the two nuts. its like its stuck. weird.
The actual adjuster mounted to the red plastic cover may be hung up. Likely aligning, lining that up properly needs more attention.
Also, I think if your chain brake is on you can't pull the red side cover off to replace the chain. his mayb e your problem. This just came to me as I recall having run into this too. Chain brake is the black handle push forward or pull back. Try pulling it back.
yes the brake was on dohhhh
thanks...great video
I have a question my chain tensioner sites way to high above the hole it’s supposed to go it and idk why could someone plz help me
The only thing I can think of if it was once working and now it's out of alignment is you need to play with the alignment adjustment to get it to go back together. ***Also, with the brake/kickback bar activated things will not go back together. Release the brake (black grab bar) that keeps the bar/chain from spinning freely.
This is likely your problem. Hope this rights the problem. If not, need to take it to local repair shop and let them advise you further.
I made a video to help clarify ua-cam.com/video/dApLXsHvQEE/v-deo.html
@@GettingthruLife ohh alright thank you
@@jonathinosborn6025 not 100% the guaranteed fix but likely what's happening. Need to push the brake handle toward the direction of the rear of the saw.
@@GettingthruLife I’ll go ahead and try that
What's the sales price for this chainsaw
I bought mine a few years ago. Maybe 179.00 - $199.00 before taxes.
You probably should have mentioned once cover is “partially” back on that you may need to push or pull safety bar back so the large coil can fit around clutch and yes rotate chain to make sure all chain on bar
I read your 1st reply and you appear to be just one of those critics. You don't like the video because it wasn't done specifically to your needs or you found a problem with it then by all means go and make your own video with your own craftsman saw.
Thanks 🙏 dude
Thanks
Thanks man!!
Thank you! much help
Thank you. Nice explanation!
You left out what direction the chain goes.... because you can put the chain on backwards the teeth go a certain direction rotating on the bar.Then putting your saw together and wasting time and may create frustration..... Because it will not cut😂.... But the video hasn't ended yet but we will see if you leave that out ...
You talk about too many unnecessary things.
Thanks for sharing what you felt you need to say.
I would have appreciated less talking and more demonstrating.
Feedback noted, thanks for sharing you thoughts.
Smartass
Next time get to the point
Next time, quit whining and appreciate that the guy put up a video for you.
@@randolphduke maybe it'll help him get to the point next time snowflake
Appreciate help with knuckleheads. Car people youtube and gun content ibrings out the hot and cold viewers.
@@GettingthruLife you have no idea how much of a knucklehead I am I eat spaghetti off my naked belly so when I take a shower I'm doing the dishes
@@dford8874 wonderful...thanks for sharing yet another knucklehead comment. I'll take em, feel free to comment.