Good tips Jeff. The shots of your sprayer make it look like you have a 7’ - 8’ spray width which would be great for edge spraying. You need to get a front mounted seeder for you ATV with the Packer Maxx on the back; one shot deal. Of course walking with the Earthway keeps you in shape for hunting. Love watching the plot progress on this property.
Jeff, you mention it would require twice the chemicals if you use a 4 gallon backpack sprayer. Why wouldn’t the 2 quarts per acre not apply. I’m only spraying 1 acre, so if I take your formula of 25 gallons for 2 acres and divide it by 2, it would require 12.5 gallons for my one acre, which is 3.125 tanks of my 4 gallon sprayer?
Hi Jeff! Another question. In your last food plot video you said you don’t want the food near your borders so the deer don’t bed on their land. In the case of a long skinny property (93yards widex450 yards long) would you say make the food in a u shape back by your house and bedding at the other end of the property so you catch deer coming off the neighbors and direct them back to your bedding? Or on a narrow property like this is bedding on your neighbors inevitable?
Thanks again Jeff. Your advice is spot on and your presentation is excellent and very relatable. I'm in VT with similar climate conditions like Wi. I have deep hard woods with no AG lands for miles, primarily beach, maple, cherry with total 6 acres cleared for foodplots ranging 1/4 ac to 3 acre size) with lots of rocks. PH now is 7.2 after spreading 4 tons of to a of lime per ac 2 years ago. My question... is it better to use a 3pt tiller or spray 3x with of Gly prior to planting my brassicas (radish) and Winter Rye for weed suppression? If I spray with gly then I'm not providing deer any summer clover and keeping them in the routine to frequent the plots.
My super easy rotation in northern Iowa. 1/2 of the acreage in brassicas, 1/2 the acreage in winter rye. Frost seed medium red clover over both in March. Clip the rye right before heading out, usually end of May. Spray the clover with R'up middle of July. Plant Brassicas end of July with a no-till drill. Clip the clover about this time on the plot going into rye. Spray clover going into rye the middle of Aug. and notill drill rye end of Aug. or first week of Sept. Takes a good quality no-till drill and a sprayer. That's it. Red clover is cheap and I've never had a frost seeding of it fail in over 10 years.
Thanks, looking forward to trying some of the tips. Unfortunately my land is all messy select logged woods on rugged hilly land, will have to bring in heavy equipment to clear it first before it looks nice like that land.
This is a excellent series on food plots. I am a big fan. I will be trying the buckwheat smashdown method this year. I have watched the videos many times but I am lacking information on when would you fertilize during the buckwheat method.
Great video as usual. So this is different from others you have posted as you arent planting buckwheat. Is there a reason you would or would not use the buckwheat procedure?
Hi Darron, this is method I originated back in 99 and it works extremely well! The ultimate not till method allows you to plant more variety, eliminate a spraying and improve the soil more...but costs a lot more, takes more time and requires a Cultipacker (if being efficient)
Great video Jeff! I'm looking to do something similar with a fallow field, but after a fall planting of white clover I would like to plant spruce in the spring to integrate the field back into the woods and promote it as a bedding area. I would prefer to sporadically plant the trees to make it more natural, so mowing is not an option. Apart from white clover do you recommend any short stem plants that I could plant in the fall or frost seed to help compete with the weeds and give the trees +/-3 years of growth before the tall weeds overtake the area again.
I love that you do the follow-up little question about the plot start say it's not long-lasting like the lime so it just changes the soil for a couple in the Bible flat start
Great stuff Jeff. This process is even easier than using Buckwheat unless you want the biomass to add for soil conditioning. Could you also do half of a plot like this in oats, peas and beans to compliment the brassicas (kale, radish, turnip etc.)
This time of year it's very popular in my area (central Iowa) to burn fields like your standing in. Why wouldn't you burn, or at least when would you burn instead of spraying in the next month of so. Burning then seeding over the top seems faster, easier and more efficient. What about spraying, then burning the weed debris?Thoughts?
Hey Jeff all some video I tried this method last year and it worked great for my food plots, I know after the first year you like to turn it in to your ultimate to till process but I was wondering if you didn’t have a Packer max could you try it again for this growing season.
Maybe wrong post for this question. Purchased a new property has a couple established plots on it. Going to use ultimate no till on those and this process to create a couple smaller hunt plots. When are you applying the DeerGro for both methods? I See it says not to mix with Glyphosate on the container?
Hi Jeff, great video as always. No mention of 24D added with the Glyfosate. Should I add it with the first spraying and just use Glyfosate for the later sprayings? Thank you.
What food plot would you recommend that’s a no till for turkey and deer? I live in eastern NC hot summers and cold winter doesn’t really get to us until January and February.
I have phragmites I burned coming back up could I spray that now or have to wait till fall to spray and kill it. I want to put native grasses for bedding where the phragmighties as taken hold
OK so now we are in spring and I followed your procedure last season. What do I do with all my green rye coming in right now to prepare for fall? Do I start spraying again??
Can you use this method to establish Switchgrass for the following spring? IE spray the fallow field all summer and broadcast this fall or next spring? I was worried that there would be to much debris matted down for the seed
@@runtimmytimer ok sorry mis read. I use SMV 2 nozzle boom sprayer. Doesn't spray as wide but less drift and has been very dependable for last 5 years.
Can you explain why you wouldn’t use 24D in this scenario? Usually you like to use it so I just want to make sure I understand this different scenario.
Have you been to northwest Montana. I’m trying out this method on my 20 acres. I have not had great luck with seed germination because August is so dang dry
Hey Jeff. Im starting a new plot that is overgrown and I'm just now starting the process. Would it be better to mow it with a brush hog and then spray the weeds and then broadcast the seed right into that?
Looks like a mess but those trees / bushes you mentioned offer woody browse to deer then you add food on top of it and that equals perfection. Everyone thinks food but woody browse are just as important when trying to hold and manage your deer
Does anyone know if I can use a lawn roller to pack the seed down into the soil (1/4”-1/2”) in leu of using a culti-packer? Cost difference is the main reason.
I used roller for a different purpose. Crushed down weeds/buckwheat after seeding. Then sprayed with glyphosate. I don't think it covers the seeds with dirt. Some seeds work well with this process but seeds like soybeans that should be planted deeper don't always grow.
@@paulkittilstad6817 I will be planting grandpa ray outdoors “grains and greens” this summer in august. It’s a blend of brassicas, winter triticale, winter rye, forage peas, kale, etc. The plot has never been worked before and I plan on doing a series of sprays like Jeff recommends doing for the first time food plots. I just want to know if a lawn roller would be sufficient for putting those seeds into the topsoil. It sounds like it would be. Thank you for the reply.
The buckwheat and winter rye make it so u don't have to use a much fertilizer. And helps protect soil from run off. Plus u get the organic material to build soil if your soil is terrible
Hi Bailey, this is method I originated back in 99 and it works extremely well! The ultimate not till method allows you to plant more variety, eliminate a spraying and improve the soil more...but costs a lot more, takes more time and requires a Cultipacker (if being efficient). Just a different method for those with less time and money...
Could a guy get away with spraying twice with roundup and then planting buckwheat? I live in central MN and have a couple acres of old crp field. The soil is sandy and not the best.
Hi Kevin no...I have never had a need to...not really a good strategy for northern States. The only reason up here would be for switchgrass but even then you can do just as well with chemicals or mowing - for switchgrass anyways.
Depends how much ground you will spray with that 40 gallon sprayer. The amount of chemical per acre is more important than the amount of water you are mixing it with. For example, if you are spraying 2 acres with one fill up and you should have 2 quarts of chemical per acre, add 4 quarts of chemical and the rest water. If you are spraying 4 acres per full up, add 8 quarts of chemical and the rest water. Hope that makes sense.
Roughly 95% of them...only during the Summer. If you want to attract deer to your food plots during the Summer weeds can sometimes help (some weeds), but if you want to attract deer to your plots during the hunting season...weeds are really bad.
I have a full blizzard outside the window here.. Will be at least a month until I can spray and the growing season ends together with october. Still going to get at it tough :-)
This is great - short, easy to understand, step-by-step process with good supporting video showing what you do. Thank you.
Good tips Jeff. The shots of your sprayer make it look like you have a 7’ - 8’ spray width which would be great for edge spraying. You need to get a front mounted seeder for you ATV with the Packer Maxx on the back; one shot deal. Of course walking with the Earthway keeps you in shape for hunting. Love watching the plot progress on this property.
Going all in on these plots this year so I can’t wait to try this no till plots system!
How did it go?
I've went to this process the last few years I have a Kubota 40 HP tractor an tiller but this system works so much better
So true Thomas...great to hear!
Problem with tiller it bring up the seed that's been buried for years. Unless it's native ground.
Jeff, you mention it would require twice the chemicals if you use a 4 gallon backpack sprayer. Why wouldn’t the 2 quarts per acre not apply. I’m only spraying 1 acre, so if I take your formula of 25 gallons for 2 acres and divide it by 2, it would require 12.5 gallons for my one acre, which is 3.125 tanks of my 4 gallon sprayer?
when is the best time to apply the plot start?
Good question
Hi Jeff! Another question.
In your last food plot video you said you don’t want the food near your borders so the deer don’t bed on their land.
In the case of a long skinny property (93yards widex450 yards long) would you say make the food in a u shape back by your house and bedding at the other end of the property so you catch deer coming off the neighbors and direct them back to your bedding?
Or on a narrow property like this is bedding on your neighbors inevitable?
Thanks again Jeff. Your advice is spot on and your presentation is excellent and very relatable. I'm in VT with similar climate conditions like Wi. I have deep hard woods with no AG lands for miles, primarily beach, maple, cherry with total 6 acres cleared for foodplots ranging 1/4 ac to 3 acre size) with lots of rocks. PH now is 7.2 after spreading 4 tons of to a of lime per ac 2 years ago. My question... is it better to use a 3pt tiller or spray 3x with of Gly prior to planting my brassicas (radish) and Winter Rye for weed suppression? If I spray with gly then I'm not providing deer any summer clover and keeping them in the routine to frequent the plots.
My super easy rotation in northern Iowa. 1/2 of the acreage in brassicas, 1/2 the acreage in winter rye. Frost seed medium red clover over both in March. Clip the rye right before heading out, usually end of May. Spray the clover with R'up middle of July. Plant Brassicas end of July with a no-till drill. Clip the clover about this time on the plot going into rye. Spray clover going into rye the middle of Aug. and notill drill rye end of Aug. or first week of Sept. Takes a good quality no-till drill and a sprayer. That's it. Red clover is cheap and I've never had a frost seeding of it fail in over 10 years.
Thanks, looking forward to trying some of the tips. Unfortunately my land is all messy select logged woods on rugged hilly land, will have to bring in heavy equipment to clear it first before it looks nice like that land.
I have the problem. Cutting trees and pulling stumps and huge Rock. Cows get my good tillable land.
This is a excellent series on food plots. I am a big fan. I will be trying the buckwheat smashdown method this year. I have watched the videos many times but I am lacking information on when would you fertilize during the buckwheat method.
Great video as usual. So this is different from others you have posted as you arent planting buckwheat. Is there a reason you would or would not use the buckwheat procedure?
Hi Darron, this is method I originated back in 99 and it works extremely well! The ultimate not till method allows you to plant more variety, eliminate a spraying and improve the soil more...but costs a lot more, takes more time and requires a Cultipacker (if being efficient)
We have taken this approach !!! It’s Works very well !!! 👍🏼👍🏼
Great video Jeff! I'm looking to do something similar with a fallow field, but after a fall planting of white clover I would like to plant spruce in the spring to integrate the field back into the woods and promote it as a bedding area. I would prefer to sporadically plant the trees to make it more natural, so mowing is not an option. Apart from white clover do you recommend any short stem plants that I could plant in the fall or frost seed to help compete with the weeds and give the trees +/-3 years of growth before the tall weeds overtake the area again.
Thanks Jeff! Great share as always 👍
I love that you do the follow-up little question about the plot start say it's not long-lasting like the lime so it just changes the soil for a couple in the Bible flat start
For a couple weeks sorry I'm using the microphone
Great stuff Jeff. This process is even easier than using Buckwheat unless you want the biomass to add for soil conditioning.
Could you also do half of a plot like this in oats, peas and beans to compliment the brassicas (kale, radish, turnip etc.)
This time of year it's very popular in my area (central Iowa) to burn fields like your standing in. Why wouldn't you burn, or at least when would you burn instead of spraying in the next month of so. Burning then seeding over the top seems faster, easier and more efficient. What about spraying, then burning the weed debris?Thoughts?
Hey Jeff all some video I tried this method last year and it worked great for my food plots, I know after the first year you like to turn it in to your ultimate to till process but I was wondering if you didn’t have a Packer max could you try it again for this growing season.
Would you change anything on your no till for a newly cleared pine clear cut plot in very sandy conditions?
Maybe wrong post for this question. Purchased a new property has a couple established plots on it. Going to use ultimate no till on those and this process to create a couple smaller hunt plots. When are you applying the DeerGro for both methods? I See it says not to mix with Glyphosate on the container?
Jeff great video as always, do you have a pollinator blend you recommend to plant? I've been watching for months but forget sometimes 🙂
Hi Jeff, great video as always. No mention of 24D added with the Glyfosate. Should I add it with the first spraying and just use Glyfosate for the later sprayings? Thank you.
What food plot would you recommend that’s a no till for turkey and deer? I live in eastern NC hot summers and cold winter doesn’t really get to us until January and February.
I have phragmites I burned coming back up could I spray that now or have to wait till fall to spray and kill it. I want to put native grasses for bedding where the phragmighties as taken hold
You should try a Grubber for the small trees/bushes..........pull it out with your UTV. I've yanked out 3" diameter stuff with it hooked to my truck.
Thanks again Jeff! I was wondering, I have a clover food plot, do you recommend any weed killer for it?
In your professional opinion what would be the best perennial food plot know till mix to use for the state of Virginia
Thanks Jeff👍🏻
Sure thing you are very welcome!
OK so now we are in spring and I followed your procedure last season. What do I do with all my green rye coming in right now to prepare for fall? Do I start spraying again??
Can you use this method to establish Switchgrass for the following spring? IE spray the fallow field all summer and broadcast this fall or next spring? I was worried that there would be to much debris matted down for the seed
Great video, what is they best food plot program to grow deer herds in the UP?
Where are you buying seeds for your buckwheat? Is There a particular blend or seed you look for?
Great stuff and extremely informative, thank you for all of the details you put in :-)
Jeff, can you do this method without chemicals? The area I hunt has honey bee hives on it and the owner has a strict no chemical rule.
I'm in the market for an ATV sprayer. Which model are you all using that you would purchase again?
Honda Rubicon. The more power the better IMO
@@temizim That's an ATV model. I'm interested in an ATV sprayer model.
@@runtimmytimer ok sorry mis read. I use SMV 2 nozzle boom sprayer. Doesn't spray as wide but less drift and has been very dependable for last 5 years.
What is a good food plot to plant in spring to get deer coming to it all summer long ?
Great video as usual! Question, do you change your mock scrape vines out every year or do they stay out as an established licking branch?
Can you explain why you wouldn’t use 24D in this scenario? Usually you like to use it so I just want to make sure I understand this different scenario.
Have you been to northwest Montana. I’m trying out this method on my 20 acres. I have not had great luck with seed germination because August is so dang dry
What spray nozzles are you using? At 10 mph I go through 25 gal. In about a third of an acre.
Hi Jeff, do you have any concerns with using glyphosate? (health reasons)
Jeff, can I just plant rye and continue to overseed during the summer and fall?
Any reason you don't use a product like prodiamine with your first application of glyphosate?
What do you spray on your brassica blend/clover to kill before a summer plot/rotation plot?
I use round up but also add quart of herbicide called crossbow. Kills all broad leaf.
@@williamlasure6301 Thanks
Is it a good idea to plant a food plot in a cut wheat feild. If so what would be some good options
Hey Jeff. Im starting a new plot that is overgrown and I'm just now starting the process. Would it be better to mow it with a brush hog and then spray the weeds and then broadcast the seed right into that?
Near Grand Rapids MI
Could you elaborate more on the plot start? Thanks
Do you use the packer max after you broadcast buckwheat or just leave it right on top of the soil?
How many seasons do you get out of the fimco??
Looks like a mess but those trees / bushes you mentioned offer woody browse to deer then you add food on top of it and that equals perfection. Everyone thinks food but woody browse are just as important when trying to hold and manage your deer
Chemicals are so natural!
Jeff, is gray dogwood a good browse for deer? I was thinking of planting some in a 5 year old pine plantation
Does anyone know if I can use a lawn roller to pack the seed down into the soil (1/4”-1/2”) in leu of using a culti-packer? Cost difference is the main reason.
I used roller for a different purpose. Crushed down weeds/buckwheat after seeding. Then sprayed with glyphosate. I don't think it covers the seeds with dirt. Some seeds work well with this process but seeds like soybeans that should be planted deeper don't always grow.
@@paulkittilstad6817 I will be planting grandpa ray outdoors “grains and greens” this summer in august. It’s a blend of brassicas, winter triticale, winter rye, forage peas, kale, etc.
The plot has never been worked before and I plan on doing a series of sprays like Jeff recommends doing for the first time food plots. I just want to know if a lawn roller would be sufficient for putting those seeds into the topsoil. It sounds like it would be. Thank you for the reply.
Jeff. I’m confused. This video is skipping the Buckwheat step of no till. When do I use buckwheat step and when not? Thx.
Hi John! Different method 😊 For those that don't have resources or extra time to plant buckwheat. Been working for me since 99!
The buckwheat and winter rye make it so u don't have to use a much fertilizer. And helps protect soil from run off. Plus u get the organic material to build soil if your soil is terrible
How many times do you spray before you plant ?
Great video
Jeff, When do you usually start spraying Simazine?
Can you plant buckwheat like this in june
June is the best time to plant buckwheat just about anywhere...
Jeff, any reason you're not putting buckwheat in first?
Hi Bailey, this is method I originated back in 99 and it works extremely well!
The ultimate not till method allows you to plant more variety, eliminate a spraying and improve the soil more...but costs a lot more, takes more time and requires a Cultipacker (if being efficient).
Just a different method for those with less time and money...
Any recommendations for killing japanese knotweed from the plot area jeff??
What name brand lime you use
Could a guy get away with spraying twice with roundup and then planting buckwheat? I live in central MN and have a couple acres of old crp field. The soil is sandy and not the best.
Jeff, any recommendations or videos for no till options that do well in heavy shade?
clover does well in the shad!
Do you ever do a prescribed burn?
Hi Kevin no...I have never had a need to...not really a good strategy for northern States. The only reason up here would be for switchgrass but even then you can do just as well with chemicals or mowing - for switchgrass anyways.
how do you deal with multi flora rose bushes ?
How much should I add to a 40 gallon sprayer as far as glyphosate?
Depends how much ground you will spray with that 40 gallon sprayer. The amount of chemical per acre is more important than the amount of water you are mixing it with. For example, if you are spraying 2 acres with one fill up and you should have 2 quarts of chemical per acre, add 4 quarts of chemical and the rest water. If you are spraying 4 acres per full up, add 8 quarts of chemical and the rest water. Hope that makes sense.
@@jeffpangborn4943, is the 2 quart per acre of concentrated glyphosate?
@@martinschultz5824 yes. That's a good starting point.
What’s an alternative to that cancer chemical you’re spraying?
Will weed killer kill briar patches
Yes.
don't the deer eat the weeds?
Roughly 95% of them...only during the Summer. If you want to attract deer to your food plots during the Summer weeds can sometimes help (some weeds), but if you want to attract deer to your plots during the hunting season...weeds are really bad.
Be nice if the wind would let up enough to spray and now we have rain lol 😆
I have a full blizzard outside the window here.. Will be at least a month until I can spray and the growing season ends together with october. Still going to get at it tough :-)
Guys and gals don’t spray your plots on windy days
Great advice Lloyd!
5 people need their thumbs broke off.