Fantastic idea! Cuts the weight in half for the user and clearance from the front of the console is not an issue with your design vs. a front hinge. The underway stress of waves impacting the bow being transferred to the T-Top is also dealt with better as the hinges are transverse. Great inspiration for my project! Where did you buy the "slide bolts"? I can find stainless draw latches everywhere, but your latches add a pin through the latching mechanism to keep the pipes centered once drawn. I've been looking for hours for these latches - that is the perfect application.
Protex hood catches makes a good selection . This top has not given me any problems and works just like the day I built it. It is just as sturdy as if it was not converted to folding.
Hey Doug, this is exactly what I need to do. I want to do it my self but I got to ask is there any welding involved? Or do I need to have someone do the welding for me... I dont weld
Yes there is aluminum tig welding and you need to buy. some special H2tube to split the top. It's worth it as you will have a factory looking and very strong folding tee top that dosn't look Mickey Mouse .
@@douglasfernandez7996 Thanks Doug. Your method is the bomb. Folding it forward like some companies are now selling just is too heave for this old 72 year old.
Do you know the name of the company that makes the tubbing with the slit for the t-top fabric. I am about to attempt this myself and would love to use them if possible
The Brass hinge bushings were cemented in using JB weld . This also acts as an insulator from electronics with the aluminum and I did not think there would be a problem using Stainless Steel pins against the brass bushings. I use the boat in salt water and have not seen any signs of corrosion in this area even though My boat is kept in an area where my zincs only last one season. But thanks for the comments. Maybe someone could recommend a better hinge set up .
It is as solid as the factory one was before I cut it. I can hang on all four corners with no detectable deflection. It is 5 years old and works the same as the day I modified it. Good luck on your mods
You can have your fabrication shop make the hinges when they weld everything together. I welded heavy wall aluminum tubing to 1/4 " flat aluminium plates for the hinge knuckles. Then I used J-B weld to secure and insulate bronze bushings inside the aluminum tubings . Finally I used stainless steel rods for the hinge pins to complete the hinge assembly. This way I haven't experienced any electrolysis issues even though it is a salt water boat.
www.hallettcanvasandsails.com/htube/using-htube/ is the company that can supply the special H2ube duel slotted tubing that I used to replace the center member.
I am on vacation and will try to look it up when I return. I am not sure how I found out about this style tubing but have seen it on some new boats at boat shows.
@@douglasfernandez7996 Hi Douglas, totally forgot about this but im getting a new boat soon a totally want to do this modification. would it be possible for you to post the Track supplier/name etc.
@@paulbracher5538 Hi Paul , Sorry I didn't get back to you but I had trouble finding my suppler . I believe H2ube channel tubing will do the same job. It is not the exact same one that I used but I think it will work the same. Mine is still working as well as the day I built it and I never fail to amaze people how easily and quickly I can single handle the lowering and raising of it to pass under low bridges. Good luck on you project.
@@douglasfernandez7996 Perfect, That's exactly what I need (no matter how many google searches I did, Is till couldn't find that tube), thank you so much for getting back to me, love your design, cant wait do do something similar.
People have asked where to get the double channel tubing to make their own folding T top. I got mine from Morse Industries 800 325-7513 It is called H2UBE CHANNEL TUBING Made by www.morseindustries.com it is listed under tubing / canvas hardware . Hope this helps Doug
Good idea on splitting the top! Not so good an idea combining 3 separate metals in your hinges. It will increase the already susceptible galvanic corrosion rate that occurs with the use of 2 dissimilar metals but more so, the rate of corrosion will be caused to accelerate when exposed to salt or fresh water.
The aluminum part of the hinge is the most sacrificial material in the electrolysis cycle. The J B weld used to secure the bushings in place acts as an insulator between the aluminum and the bronze bushings where corrosion would be most likely to start. The stainless steel pins against the bronze bushings should be ok with a few drops of oil now and then. If I had make the hinges totally out of aluminum I would have had to use aluminum hinge pins. I felt aluminum rubbing against aluminum would ware out very quickly . That is the reason I put rubber pads between the hinge leaves. Your electrolysis problem with boats is a point well taken . Perhaps you could suggest a better way to hinge the top with out using dissimilar metals or having the aluminum ware problems so others can improve on this design.
@@douglasfernandez7996 Instead of Brass bushings and copper washers would a plastic material be a suitable substitute? Materials such as UHMWPE (Ultra High Mollecular Weight Polyethylene). The stainless steel pin can still be used for strength. This will improve your design in two ways. One is that UHMWPE is self-lubricating. The other is that you will have a good insulation between the stainless steel pin and the aluminium. Similarly the copper spacers can be replaced with UHMWPE washers
@@RobB-vz2vo Thank you for your comment. I took my design from the way Mercury puts props on. They use aluminum , stainless and bronze in the assembly process . But you are right as they also use plastic for shear protection. FYI my boat goes thru all it's zincs in the 4 months it is in the water and I have not had any issues with my hinges. That being said there is always room for improvement and plastic may be better. You might have to make the hinge knuckles larger to accommodate a sufficient thickness of plastic bushing. Let me know how it works and if I have any problems I may convert. Doug
Douglas, the UGMWPE is available as ready made bushings in a wide range of sizes. Tube and rod stock is also available for turning on a lathe. You wouldn’t need it in anything thicker than the bushing that’s you are already using as it is hard wearing and self-lubricating.
![Preventing Oxidation On Boat Gel Coat[How Pros Do It!]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UGAm2c8ax1Q/mqdefault.jpg)
![Preventing Oxidation On Boat Gel Coat[How Pros Do It!]](/img/tr.png)
Fantastic !!! Obviously you put a lot of thought and excellent craftsmanship...
Nice modification. Well done.
Fantastic idea! Cuts the weight in half for the user and clearance from the front of the console is not an issue with your design vs. a front hinge. The underway stress of waves impacting the bow being transferred to the T-Top is also dealt with better as the hinges are transverse. Great inspiration for my project!
Where did you buy the "slide bolts"? I can find stainless draw latches everywhere, but your latches add a pin through the latching mechanism to keep the pipes centered once drawn. I've been looking for hours for these latches - that is the perfect application.
Protex hood catches makes a good selection . This top has not given me any problems and works just like the day I built it. It is just as sturdy as if it was not converted to folding.
@@douglasfernandez7996 Thank you! That is such an amazing design! You are super creative! I am so glad you shared this.
Can you please tell me where you got the clips with the bail on it to clasp both the top halfs together. Thanks so much.
www.fiberwerx.com/
Hey Doug, this is exactly what I need to do. I want to do it my self but I got to ask is there any welding involved? Or do I need to have someone do the welding for me... I dont weld
Yes there is aluminum tig welding and you need to buy. some special H2tube to split the top. It's worth it as you will have a factory looking and very strong folding tee top that dosn't look Mickey Mouse .
@@douglasfernandez7996 Thanks Doug. Your method is the bomb. Folding it forward like some companies are now selling just is too heave for this old 72 year old.
Very good idea, thanks for share
Do you know the name of the company that makes the tubbing with the slit for the t-top fabric. I am about to attempt this myself and would love to use them if possible
Sorry but I don't remember . I think the product was called U tubing or U 2 tubing. I know some of the boat manufactures use it.
The Brass hinge bushings were cemented in using JB weld . This also acts as an insulator from electronics with the aluminum and I did not think there would be a problem using Stainless Steel pins against the brass bushings. I use the boat in salt water and have not seen any signs of corrosion in this area even though My boat is kept in an area where my zincs only last one season. But thanks for the comments. Maybe someone could recommend a better hinge set up .
very nice ... all first class and heavy duty
Awesome! I was thinking of collapsing from the front. Great work. Does it rattle like crazy underway? Did it last?
It is as solid as the factory one was before I cut it. I can hang on all four corners with no detectable deflection. It is 5 years old and works the same as the day I modified it. Good luck on your mods
Can you sell a set of the hinges? Seems perfect.
You can have your fabrication shop make the hinges when they weld everything together. I welded heavy wall aluminum tubing to 1/4 " flat aluminium plates for the hinge knuckles. Then I used J-B weld to secure and insulate bronze bushings inside the aluminum tubings . Finally I used stainless steel rods for the hinge pins to complete the hinge assembly. This way I haven't experienced any electrolysis issues even though it is a salt water boat.
www.hallettcanvasandsails.com/htube/using-htube/ is the company that can supply the special H2ube duel slotted tubing that I used to replace the center member.
This is amazing! Brilliant!
Very impressed 🙌👌👍
Could you post the name of the t-track tubing and material inserts you used or the suppliers details?
I am on vacation and will try to look it up when I return. I am not sure how I found out about this style tubing but have seen it on some new boats at boat shows.
OK Great, Thank you
@@douglasfernandez7996 Hi Douglas, totally forgot about this but im getting a new boat soon a totally want to do this modification. would it be possible for you to post the Track supplier/name etc.
@@paulbracher5538 Hi Paul , Sorry I didn't get back to you but I had trouble finding my suppler . I believe H2ube channel tubing will do the same job. It is not the exact same one that I used but I think it will work the same. Mine is still working as well as the day I built it and I never fail to amaze people how easily and quickly I can single handle the lowering and raising of it to pass under low bridges. Good luck on you project.
@@douglasfernandez7996 Perfect, That's exactly what I need (no matter how many google searches I did, Is till couldn't find that tube), thank you so much for getting back to me, love your design, cant wait do do something similar.
Great Job....Thanks for idea...
Genius!
People have asked where to get the double channel tubing to make their own folding T top. I got mine from Morse Industries 800 325-7513 It is called H2UBE CHANNEL TUBING Made by www.morseindustries.com it is listed under tubing / canvas hardware . Hope this helps Doug
Good idea on splitting the top! Not so good an idea combining 3 separate metals in your hinges. It will increase the already susceptible galvanic corrosion rate that occurs with the use of 2 dissimilar metals but more so, the rate of corrosion will be caused to accelerate when exposed to salt or fresh water.
How do you explain the mercury does it all the time with the time with there aluminum props and bronze bushings and stainless steel output shafts.
The aluminum part of the hinge is the most sacrificial material in the electrolysis cycle. The J B weld used to secure the bushings in place acts as an insulator between the aluminum and the bronze bushings where corrosion would be most likely to start. The stainless steel pins against the bronze bushings should be ok with a few drops of oil now and then. If I had make the hinges totally out of aluminum I would have had to use aluminum hinge pins. I felt aluminum rubbing against aluminum would ware out very quickly . That is the reason I put rubber pads between the hinge leaves. Your electrolysis problem with boats is a point well taken . Perhaps you could suggest a better way to hinge the top with out using dissimilar metals or having the aluminum ware problems so others can improve on this design.
@@douglasfernandez7996 Instead of Brass bushings and copper washers would a plastic material be a suitable substitute? Materials such as UHMWPE (Ultra High Mollecular Weight Polyethylene). The stainless steel pin can still be used for strength. This will improve your design in two ways. One is that UHMWPE is self-lubricating. The other is that you will have a good insulation between the stainless steel pin and the aluminium. Similarly the copper spacers can be replaced with UHMWPE washers
@@RobB-vz2vo Thank you for your comment. I took my design from the way Mercury puts props on. They use aluminum , stainless and bronze in the assembly process . But you are right as they also use plastic for shear protection. FYI my boat goes thru all it's zincs in the 4 months it is in the water and I have not had any issues with my hinges. That being said there is always room for improvement and plastic may be better. You might have to make the hinge knuckles larger to accommodate a sufficient thickness of plastic bushing. Let me know how it works and if I have any problems I may convert. Doug
Douglas, the UGMWPE is available as ready made bushings in a wide range of sizes. Tube and rod stock is also available for turning on a lathe. You wouldn’t need it in anything thicker than the bushing that’s you are already using as it is hard wearing and self-lubricating.