You can remove the plastic heat stakes by using hot air and lifting the item to stretch the plastic back into a shape that goes through the hole, doing it this way means you can refit and re-stake it again when re-assembling.
@@tony359 I saw a UA-cam video a while ago where somebody used a buffing wheel after spraying to get a nice shiny finish that looks more like the original metal. I quite like the matte look but it might be worth experimenting with. I suspect it might also improve conductivity.
Very nice idea the cold zinc spray and citric acid, no rust anymore and acts both as a paint and rust proof and it is cheap and easy to find and looks marvelous! The machine is really cute, noisy and slow, but looks so futuristic for its era, especially with that auto eject floppy drive which looks like a vhs machine compared to a portable cassete player compared to the manual PC ones with the mechanical button. The white phosphor screen tend to cheat you thinking it is a color monitor but it isn't and I would have adjusted the picture to be a little more closer to the plastic borders, especially at the height, to take advantage of all the few millimeters this display has cause it is really tiny. Great work keep up!
Thank you! Yes I do love the zinc finishing too! That Mac is looking at me now, it's in my living room! I should turn it on every now and then. Thanks for watching!
So glad to see you back with another video. I was worried after you said the channel was not growing as it should. Here's to hoping much more people will enjoy your vids as i do. All the best!
Cool idea with that Zinc spray. I will apply it some of my old metal PC cases that are in a sorry state. And I will use the PCB cleaning fluid too. I'm not shy to just wash the PCBs with water, but it still felt somewhat bad to do it. Thanks for sharing these methods! Great work overall with this machine.
Something I did not mention is that the Electrolube SWAS is water based. So no nasty fumes to worry about. It's just that it's doing a terrific job on oxidation - and it's designed for PCBs. I've been using the same tank for years. I filtered it some months ago. That said, I guess there's nothing wrong with water either. The Zinc spray is a revelation though! Thanks for watching!
To get the plastic type labels off easier, warm them up with a hot air gun, not hot enough to damage the plastic, only 120C or so. It softens the glue.
Wow-that looks BRAND NEW! I like the galvanizing coating and dialectic grease for the suction cup! RetroBriting turned out great! I forgot if you said you used 3% or 12%. Also, what was your ratio of water to peroxide? Thanks again for another Great Apple Video!
Hello Apple Audience :) Yes, that Mac is still looking great! It's 12% peroxide I cannot remember the ratio though. Not much. Slower but with less side effects.
The issue with zinc spray is that its still a paint but with "zinc" particles in it. The resin (clear base) is still isolation. The biggest downside is that the zinc/aluminium paints often damage pretty easy explaining the continuity after tightening the screws. Looks pretty good with the retrobright eventhough i am still not a fan of it. Keyboard and mouse are getting the same treatment i presume?
Well as long as it protects the metal, I'm happy with that. For the guts of a computer I feel it's ok. So you're saying it doesn't bond to the metal in any way? I'm not a fan of retrobrighting either but this one came up well :) I got the keyboard recently, I'm not sure I want to retrobright it - I've damaged a keyboard already with that! The mouse, maybe! It's very time consuming and we don't have much sunshine here unfortunately! Thanks for watching!
Very interesting video. your style is really coming into it's own.Though i dont use Vintage computers that much i do love them to bits. I do have 2 spectrums, on in an after market case. not sure if they work. would happily leand them to you if you fancy a poke around inside. Incedentally watched on one of the monitors i got off you.
Hey I remember you! :) Thanks for watching! I'm always happy to tinker with old computers - though I know nothing about Spectrum's. Maybe it would be a good opportunity to learn something about them!
12:25 Always, always always reinstall the neck board *last.* Many a compact Mac CRT has been ruined because of an inadvertent bump to the neck board while removing or reinstalling some other part or cable. So it should be the first thing to come off, and the last thing to go back on. (That’s how I was taught back in the late 90s by veteran Mac technicians, back when I worked at my first job at an Apple dealer.)
Well spotted. I should have mentioned that in the video: they are RIVETED to the PCB. I decided not to attempt to remove them as the chance to damage the PCB is too high in my opinion. I know it's pretty obvious but even removing that shield at the back caused a little damage.
Great work. My SNES project is in the same state of it being a long one. Waiting for someone to 3D print me a new shell. I'd like to pickup a TRS80 or IBM 50 series at some point. Or even a lil mac like this one.
Having a heck of a time removing the motherboard on my Mac SE M5010 as it has a Transwarp accelerator card attached!!! Cant see that its just gonna slide out like Ive seen others do. Not sure what all I need to take off. I have to remove the two floppy drives as neither of them are working. Also the motherboard needs cleaning and I need to check the battery.
I'm not familiar with that card, I saw some pics online. It looks like it should slide out as normal but I am not sure. That said, the card doesn't "slide out", it opens outwards like a kitchen cabinet. First you need to slide the board out a bit until the notches on the right hand side align with the metalwork. THEN, it opens like a cabinet door (you might need to gently pry on the metal frame to release the PCB. You also need to remove all the cables before you do that. I hope that helps!
@@tony359 It plugs into the top of the motherboard. It has an expansion socket that sticks up into a metal slot and it gets blocked. Memory modules also keep it from being lifted out. I looked and do not see the notches in the motherboard. Maybe I have some type of hybrid here!
ua-cam.com/video/e0DJYUwJMFw/v-deo.html You say "lift out", take a look at the video above: the board needs to be lifted 1-2cm to clear the metalwork, then it opens like a kitchen cabinet door. To lift the board those 1-2cm, you'll have to remove the floppy/hdd/power cables, those will hit the metalwork. Are you saying the add-on board prevents you from doing that?
10:45 You really need a big, chunky soldering iron tip for things like that. The long chisel you used is terrible for heat transfer, and excessively long heating is bad for the board.
Recapping is always a big subject online. I don't mind replacing them, it can only improve on reliability. But sometimes they are perfectly fine and won't have issues for many years. Also, 30 years ago those computers were EXPENSIVE, so no wonder the components were of good quality. Thanks for watching!
You can remove the plastic heat stakes by using hot air and lifting the item to stretch the plastic back into a shape that goes through the hole, doing it this way means you can refit and re-stake it again when re-assembling.
ahhh, great idea thank you!
What a great idea the galvanizing spray!
I'm really impressed! I'm using it on other projects as well! Thanks for watching!
@@tony359 I saw a UA-cam video a while ago where somebody used a buffing wheel after spraying to get a nice shiny finish that looks more like the original metal. I quite like the matte look but it might be worth experimenting with. I suspect it might also improve conductivity.
Good idea! For the mac the matte is ok I think. But for the PS/2 PSU it might help. I shall test that thank you!
Very carful and nicely done. Great outcome!
Thanks for the work, that you are investing in the videos for us!
👍
Thank you for watching! :)
Great finish of a great restoration!
Thank you! I'm very proud of it!
Very nice idea the cold zinc spray and citric acid, no rust anymore and acts both as a paint and rust proof and it is cheap and easy to find and looks marvelous!
The machine is really cute, noisy and slow, but looks so futuristic for its era, especially with that auto eject floppy drive which looks like a vhs machine compared to a portable cassete player compared to the manual PC ones with the mechanical button.
The white phosphor screen tend to cheat you thinking it is a color monitor but it isn't and I would have adjusted the picture to be a little more closer to the plastic borders, especially at the height, to take advantage of all the few millimeters this display has cause it is really tiny.
Great work keep up!
Thank you! Yes I do love the zinc finishing too! That Mac is looking at me now, it's in my living room! I should turn it on every now and then. Thanks for watching!
So glad to see you back with another video.
I was worried after you said the channel was not growing as it should.
Here's to hoping much more people will enjoy your vids as i do.
All the best!
Thank you! I admit I lost a bit of motivation but I haven't given up yet :) Thank you for your support!
@@tony359 you are quite welcome!
Very nice restoration Tony, well done. I actually just played Lode Runner on my 128k, minutes before watching this video!
Thank you sir! The PS/2 is in the making now! :)
@@tony359 Looking forward to that vid :)
Cool idea with that Zinc spray. I will apply it some of my old metal PC cases that are in a sorry state. And I will use the PCB cleaning fluid too. I'm not shy to just wash the PCBs with water, but it still felt somewhat bad to do it. Thanks for sharing these methods! Great work overall with this machine.
Something I did not mention is that the Electrolube SWAS is water based. So no nasty fumes to worry about. It's just that it's doing a terrific job on oxidation - and it's designed for PCBs. I've been using the same tank for years. I filtered it some months ago. That said, I guess there's nothing wrong with water either. The Zinc spray is a revelation though! Thanks for watching!
Looking very good. You gave me some good idea’s
Amazing, thank you!
Well saved!👍👍
To get the plastic type labels off easier, warm them up with a hot air gun, not hot enough to damage the plastic, only 120C or so.
It softens the glue.
Good idea! I'll definitely use that trick next time! Thank you!
Wow-that looks BRAND NEW! I like the galvanizing coating and dialectic grease for the suction cup!
RetroBriting turned out great!
I forgot if you said you used 3% or 12%.
Also, what was your ratio of water to peroxide?
Thanks again for another Great Apple Video!
Hello Apple Audience :)
Yes, that Mac is still looking great! It's 12% peroxide I cannot remember the ratio though. Not much. Slower but with less side effects.
@@tony359 lol “Mac Audience”! Awesome-thank you! I have all the ingredients and I hope to do some today!
The issue with zinc spray is that its still a paint but with "zinc" particles in it.
The resin (clear base) is still isolation.
The biggest downside is that the zinc/aluminium paints often damage pretty easy explaining the continuity after tightening the screws.
Looks pretty good with the retrobright eventhough i am still not a fan of it.
Keyboard and mouse are getting the same treatment i presume?
Well as long as it protects the metal, I'm happy with that. For the guts of a computer I feel it's ok. So you're saying it doesn't bond to the metal in any way? I'm not a fan of retrobrighting either but this one came up well :)
I got the keyboard recently, I'm not sure I want to retrobright it - I've damaged a keyboard already with that! The mouse, maybe! It's very time consuming and we don't have much sunshine here unfortunately! Thanks for watching!
Love these videos! Have you tried baby oil on those stickers? Quite a trick on old stubborn stuff 😊
I'll keep that in mind for next one thanks!
Very interesting video. your style is really coming into it's own.Though i dont use Vintage computers that much i do love them to bits. I do have 2 spectrums, on in an after market case. not sure if they work. would happily leand them to you if you fancy a poke around inside. Incedentally watched on one of the monitors i got off you.
Hey I remember you! :) Thanks for watching! I'm always happy to tinker with old computers - though I know nothing about Spectrum's. Maybe it would be a good opportunity to learn something about them!
12:25 Always, always always reinstall the neck board *last.* Many a compact Mac CRT has been ruined because of an inadvertent bump to the neck board while removing or reinstalling some other part or cable. So it should be the first thing to come off, and the last thing to go back on. (That’s how I was taught back in the late 90s by veteran Mac technicians, back when I worked at my first job at an Apple dealer.)
Good advice thanks!
The ports in the back still look rusty. May you can desolder and give them the acid + zinc treatment as well?
Well spotted. I should have mentioned that in the video: they are RIVETED to the PCB. I decided not to attempt to remove them as the chance to damage the PCB is too high in my opinion. I know it's pretty obvious but even removing that shield at the back caused a little damage.
@@tony359 Sounds like a dremel might work on some of the rust spots.
Yes I didn’t try polishing them. My concern is that I might remove the coating, making the situation worse. Then I have to remove them!
Great work. My SNES project is in the same state of it being a long one. Waiting for someone to 3D print me a new shell. I'd like to pickup a TRS80 or IBM 50 series at some point. Or even a lil mac like this one.
I'd love a TRS80 as well! Thanks for watching!
Having a heck of a time removing the motherboard on my Mac SE M5010 as it has a Transwarp accelerator card attached!!! Cant see that its just gonna slide out like Ive seen others do.
Not sure what all I need to take off. I have to remove the two floppy drives as neither of them are working. Also the motherboard needs cleaning and I need to check the battery.
I'm not familiar with that card, I saw some pics online. It looks like it should slide out as normal but I am not sure. That said, the card doesn't "slide out", it opens outwards like a kitchen cabinet. First you need to slide the board out a bit until the notches on the right hand side align with the metalwork. THEN, it opens like a cabinet door (you might need to gently pry on the metal frame to release the PCB.
You also need to remove all the cables before you do that. I hope that helps!
@@tony359 It plugs into the top of the motherboard. It has an expansion socket that sticks up into a metal slot and it gets blocked. Memory modules also keep it from being lifted out. I looked and do not see the notches in the motherboard. Maybe I have some type of hybrid here!
ua-cam.com/video/e0DJYUwJMFw/v-deo.html
You say "lift out", take a look at the video above: the board needs to be lifted 1-2cm to clear the metalwork, then it opens like a kitchen cabinet door. To lift the board those 1-2cm, you'll have to remove the floppy/hdd/power cables, those will hit the metalwork.
Are you saying the add-on board prevents you from doing that?
There is no easy way to remove the analog board 😄 A tip is to look at the adjustment knob which tends to get stuck. That might help a bit.
ahh, good to know! I thought there was some secret way! Yes, I did notice the brightness knob tends to get stuck, thanks!
I would like to see more video about console repair, like PlayStation or other (Gameboy ecc...)
Thanks for your feedback! I have a couple of PS4 I'd like to try to repair and a PS3 with something broken on it to repair! Watch this space!
10:45 You really need a big, chunky soldering iron tip for things like that. The long chisel you used is terrible for heat transfer, and excessively long heating is bad for the board.
You're right, I've got a 245 iron since then, changing the tip is a bit less cumbersome :)
My screen is in but blank green. Why is this?
"green" I guess it means it's "blank". No "bong" when you turn it on? Fans spinning? Any activity?
@tony359 no activity but, the screen turns on.
It really could be anything. One thing is that on an old mac the screen only powers up if the motherboard is sending a video signal.
Dont use w40 on plastic it disintegrates the plastic overtime !!
I washed it afterwards!
It is very strange that electrolytic capacitors did not require replacement. Apparently now they make electrolytic capacitors with planned aging.
Recapping is always a big subject online. I don't mind replacing them, it can only improve on reliability. But sometimes they are perfectly fine and won't have issues for many years. Also, 30 years ago those computers were EXPENSIVE, so no wonder the components were of good quality. Thanks for watching!