respect - from Green Bay. I did a big underpin, & know how much work they are. I recall that you & I discussed some stuff on my channel about your project. Glad to see you're in there swingin'. It's looking great! Charleen is gonna have arms like Conan the Barbarian before you're finished.
Love to read the university study you are referring to if you could post a link or some other identifiable information. That is the the one thing I have been curious about, which method is better. That, and how to not cave in my rubble foundation...
I'm just drying it out so I can work in there without getting muddy. As for water proofing it gets dimple board on the inside incase the joint between old foundation and new leaks, as well a tile around the inside for any water that gets under the foundation/floor. This goes into a sump and gets pumped. I am going to put a curtain drain a couple feet away from the foundation and run it into the ditch just to catch any big amounts of ground water.
I'm planning similar project. What is the depth of new foundation - same as old one + something extra? Do you remove all the soil from under the old foundation or does any part remain on the soil?
The old crawlspace was about 4' deep, we are going another 4 feet below that. You escavate all the dirt from under the existing foundation in 3 foot wide sections and pour new footings to depth. The back half of our basement is 6' that is why the underpinned section on the middle wall is only 2 feet.
@@weenderden4186 Thank you for the answer. I have limestone foundation that is about 22 inches thick. Its not that solid to go under and 22 inches seems way too much.. Currently crawlspace is about 6 feet and 7 inches. Was thinking to go 1 feet or so under. Anyways it is interesting to watch and to get ideas how to go forward with this plan :D Thanks for the video.
@@Murunugis look up "bench footing " or "bench underpinning" if your only going down a foot you basically leave the existing footing but dig on a 45 degree angle down to your new basement level, so if you go down a foot you essentially looe a foot around the outside of your basement but it is was easier . For us it didn't make sense because we would loose 4 feet around the entire basement lol. In your case it would work well
@@weenderden4186 Thanks, it is good idea, because I actually don't loose much like that. I only need to install internal drainage system and insulation + concrete floor with heating, since at the moment basement has dirt floor. Nice, smarter every day :)
I came out 6 inches as per the engineered drawings, they require 3" up but I'm doing about 10 for more "head pressure" to hopefully force the concrete against the bottom of the footing. Also can just do a straight pour flush and use non shrink grout the pack a gap
@@weenderden4186 I read a published study from a university that said The overpour was just as good as the grout method, even better because the guy installing the grout might not pack it evenly, plus the overpour is faster. I have a small 40'x22' foundation do you think I need engineering?
@@fishmonger6879 yes I read that also. I dont know how realistic the grout would be in my situation, the underside of my footings are not smooth or flat at all. The overpour is definitely easier as long as it is vibrated well. I would get some plans done up for sure. I didn't pull a permit but I am doing everything "by the book" for the sake of my house not settling. I think I paid $700 for the engineering so cheap insurance in the grand scheme of things
respect - from Green Bay. I did a big underpin, & know how much work they are.
I recall that you & I discussed some stuff on my channel about your project. Glad to see you're in there swingin'. It's looking great!
Charleen is gonna have arms like Conan the Barbarian before you're finished.
Love to read the university study you are referring to if you could post a link or some other identifiable information. That is the the one thing I have been curious about, which method is better. That, and how to not cave in my rubble foundation...
why did u burn the cavity out in min 0:33? How do ou get th new wall waterproof without digging the outside too?
I'm just drying it out so I can work in there without getting muddy. As for water proofing it gets dimple board on the inside incase the joint between old foundation and new leaks, as well a tile around the inside for any water that gets under the foundation/floor. This goes into a sump and gets pumped. I am going to put a curtain drain a couple feet away from the foundation and run it into the ditch just to catch any big amounts of ground water.
I'm planning similar project. What is the depth of new foundation - same as old one + something extra? Do you remove all the soil from under the old foundation or does any part remain on the soil?
The old crawlspace was about 4' deep, we are going another 4 feet below that. You escavate all the dirt from under the existing foundation in 3 foot wide sections and pour new footings to depth. The back half of our basement is 6' that is why the underpinned section on the middle wall is only 2 feet.
@@weenderden4186 Thank you for the answer. I have limestone foundation that is about 22 inches thick. Its not that solid to go under and 22 inches seems way too much.. Currently crawlspace is about 6 feet and 7 inches. Was thinking to go 1 feet or so under. Anyways it is interesting to watch and to get ideas how to go forward with this plan :D Thanks for the video.
@@Murunugis look up "bench footing " or "bench underpinning" if your only going down a foot you basically leave the existing footing but dig on a 45 degree angle down to your new basement level, so if you go down a foot you essentially looe a foot around the outside of your basement but it is was easier . For us it didn't make sense because we would loose 4 feet around the entire basement lol. In your case it would work well
@@weenderden4186 Thanks, it is good idea, because I actually don't loose much like that. I only need to install internal drainage system and insulation + concrete floor with heating, since at the moment basement has dirt floor. Nice, smarter every day :)
I want to dig mine down 2'. how far out from the existing wall did you come with your form, and how much higher?
I came out 6 inches as per the engineered drawings, they require 3" up but I'm doing about 10 for more "head pressure" to hopefully force the concrete against the bottom of the footing. Also can just do a straight pour flush and use non shrink grout the pack a gap
@@weenderden4186 I read a published study from a university that said The overpour was just as good as the grout method, even better because the guy installing the grout might not pack it evenly, plus the overpour is faster. I have a small 40'x22' foundation do you think I need engineering?
@@fishmonger6879 yes I read that also. I dont know how realistic the grout would be in my situation, the underside of my footings are not smooth or flat at all. The overpour is definitely easier as long as it is vibrated well. I would get some plans done up for sure. I didn't pull a permit but I am doing everything "by the book" for the sake of my house not settling. I think I paid $700 for the engineering so cheap insurance in the grand scheme of things
Dean I can't find an engineer who will do the job. Can I private message you for a few more questions?
@@fishmonger6879 absolutely
What did you do with that flamethrower? :D
Lol drying up the wet clay so I can work in the hole. Thanks for watching!
Thank God for the mute button.