My advice is apply a thin first coat and let it dry. Then gradually increase the thickness of subsequent coats, letting each dry completely. If you dont the nylon will drink the paint and itll us4 a ton.
I've never painted much UCP, but everything I've worked with that was painted under NVGs was no brighter then non painted versions of the same. I'm sure it technically is but I never noticed a difference. Rifles never "popped" out under them.
Great job, Brother !! Here are just some suggestions: - You can use torn cardboard to use the edges as a "stencil". You can use it to spray straight down for more bold lines....or at an angle to get more subdued lines with a slowly faded appearance. (From on the cardboard, towards the edge away from the cardboard "stencil") It works in areas with Maple, Oak, etc. "leafy" type of areas. (Not so much in "piney" areas, but will be better than some other camo patterns). -As far as the velcro, if you get them gobbed up with paint, get a stiff nylon bristled brush (or a metal bristled toothbrush-type) to brush off the paint AFTER it has dried. Try to do it gently, at first, until you get the gist of how to get rid of the paint, without messing up the velcro. Thanks for your videos !!! Keep up the great work !!!
Darker colors are harder to paint, for example black. You'll need lot of paint or heavy colors for it. Remember it's easier to paint lighter colors like coyote brown or ranger green. Single colors are easier to paint then camos.
@@marshallclowers1242 for black like I said lots of paint, or a darker color then the pounch so if it's like a black, then you want something like a darker green so it soaks up the black but still leaves some green. But if you want a black to tan, MIST it, let it dry, mist again, let dry and repeat or reapply as needed. Hope that helps man.
@@MrSwccguy Cool, I figured I'd have to go slow with it. I got a crap-ton of that ugly ACU stuff that I've dyed brown (looks much better in the trees and scrub). Miss the old woodland camo.
Why do you think the IDF doesn't use camouflage patterns? Because they do this type of stuff. That and they smear mud all over their kit etc. Plus they want to avoid friendly fire. Saves a lot of money doing your own camo and not having to buy it.
My advice is apply a thin first coat and let it dry. Then gradually increase the thickness of subsequent coats, letting each dry completely. If you dont the nylon will drink the paint and itll us4 a ton.
Great tip!
@@VentureSurplus that's wht she said. Not to me.... but im sure she said it.
This was my experience. It soaks up the paint and just looks smudgy
Keep these videos coming. Great stuff
Will do! More to come
I've painted UCP gear (no explanation needed) and I've wondered about how they'd look under NODs.
I've never painted much UCP, but everything I've worked with that was painted under NVGs was no brighter then non painted versions of the same. I'm sure it technically is but I never noticed a difference. Rifles never "popped" out under them.
Great job, Brother !!
Here are just some suggestions:
- You can use torn cardboard to use the edges as a "stencil". You can use it to spray straight down for more bold lines....or at an angle to get more subdued lines with a slowly faded appearance. (From on the cardboard, towards the edge away from the cardboard "stencil")
It works in areas with Maple, Oak, etc. "leafy" type of areas. (Not so much in "piney" areas, but will be better than some other camo patterns).
-As far as the velcro, if you get them gobbed up with paint, get a stiff nylon bristled brush (or a metal bristled toothbrush-type) to brush off the paint AFTER it has dried. Try to do it gently, at first, until you get the gist of how to get rid of the paint, without messing up the velcro.
Thanks for your videos !!!
Keep up the great work !!!
Why I like surplus gear in not worried about spray painting it or fucking it up
Yeah, it's a lot less worry to paint it all up.
Darker colors are harder to paint, for example black. You'll need lot of paint or heavy colors for it. Remember it's easier to paint lighter colors like coyote brown or ranger green. Single colors are easier to paint then camos.
All true
I was going to ask about black. The wife got me a slew of pouches that are black. They work great but stand out like a sore thumb.
@@marshallclowers1242 for black like I said lots of paint, or a darker color then the pounch so if it's like a black, then you want something like a darker green so it soaks up the black but still leaves some green. But if you want a black to tan, MIST it, let it dry, mist again, let dry and repeat or reapply as needed. Hope that helps man.
Oh also don't let it pool up or go super heavy right off the back. You gotta layer it.
@@MrSwccguy Cool, I figured I'd have to go slow with it.
I got a crap-ton of that ugly ACU stuff that I've dyed brown (looks much better in the trees and scrub). Miss the old woodland camo.
You can do some cool stuff for sure with the esthetics of the paint. Cool tiger stripes are 100% possible with some good card stock as a stencil
Yeah, with some practice and stencils you can get pretty wild.
Great information!
Why do you think the IDF doesn't use camouflage patterns? Because they do this type of stuff. That and they smear mud all over their kit etc. Plus they want to avoid friendly fire. Saves a lot of money doing your own camo and not having to buy it.
what if i use another brand of spray paint than rustholeum? will it affect the IR capabilities?
Someone was a boy scout lol
Haha sure was!
@@VentureSurplus I searched through your channel to get a better view of that OA tattoo lol
Isn't the purpose of camouflage not to have a "pattern"?
Certain patterns are natural and break up shapes
Who-the-F needs a tactical kit? Oh, thats right, COD and Fortnite fan boys.
if you have no idead what you are talking about then i recommend you to go back to play your soyboy games and eat your cheetos
Found the consumer cuck who can't defend his family or himself. Lol