I think the o ring is to prevent air being sucked in past the screw threads and upsetting the mixture calibration. It therefore doesnt really matter which end it goes on, but at the pointy end it holds the tiny washer against the spring and holds everything together as you put it in the hole. Otherwise the washer could end up cockeyed and then bend and jam when the mixture screw is turned. You dont want to subsequently be digging out a bent washer .... believe me!!
very often the small rubber o-ring on the ldle mix screw sticks to its seat and wont come out easily. oem coils are fine, no need for replacement. i have the same bike, owned it for 32 years.
Yea, I use a piece of thin mechanics wire with one end sharply bent over and go in there and pick them out. Many times if they're stuck like you said, shot of WD40 or carb clean / brake clean works to release it. I have to constantly remake the wire, because I always lose it.
Experiencing some challenges with the same VFR 748 CC . It starts very well and runs , after some running distance cylinder no 3 cuts off combustion and makes the bike lumpy . What could be the cause ???? we checked the carburettor, fuel pump .valve clearance okay 🆗 👍🏾
As a 74 year old mechanic I am deeply interested in watching your videos. I have 3 very special bikes and would love to see you rebuilding the carbs on a '94 V-Max like mine. I am just up the road a bit from you at Lake Panasoffkee. I also have a '14 CB1100 and a '10 VFR 1200
Obviously, the '10 and the '14 are outside my wheelhouse due to electronics and EFI, but I'd definitely be interested in the Vmax work. Hit me up email and I can go over the new information regarding how things have to run regarding the business side. motorestofl@gmail.com. I do not work through UA-cam comments, only email and then by phone. Or, look up my phone you'll find it, it's even written on the stalls of most bathrooms, so I am told. heheheh. You can also find this email on my channel main page, under the "about" heading. Cheers.
Thanks. I think today I might finally get to doing a test ride, if the ancient GoPro behaves, I'll see what I can do to record a voice-over from my Sena headset comm's to the phone and edit it up for the channel.
16016-KR3-671 does not seem to be model specifically correct for RC24. 16016-KR3-671 seems to be for some Nighthawks, GB500, XR650, smaller rebel… It might still be correct fit (diameters, profiles, depth) for RC24 and seems to run very well. Model specific mixture screw set seems to be the tradional type like shown on service manual. Since that 16016-KR3-671 has groove for o-ring, having o-ring only in this groove seems the way to go. Problem with these older bikes is that sometimes some or all parts fiche’s have mistakes on them. I had such issue on my VF750C Magna ’86 with vale cover gaskets, all parts fiche’s listed flat gasket, but ’86 VF’s already have line bored cams…so, gasket is same as for super magna. Root cause surprisingly was on Honda’s own part fiche. Nice video, very enjoyable to watch…like your videos always are.
Experiencing some challenges with the same VFR 748 CC . It starts very well and runs , after some running distance cylinder no 3 cuts off combustion and makes the bike lumpy . What could be the cause ???? we checked the carburettor, fuel pump .valve clearance okay 🆗 👍🏾
Replace the spark plug. I have had a bunch of NGK's take a shat, had one the other day in an ATV that did it for a second time. The plugs spark well under testing then fail under load.
Great video as always! Where did you find the fuel lines to and from the fuel pump? Mine are as stiff as Peter North and will need to be replaced 😉 Thanks
Hello, great job, thanks for the clear work. My two Vfr 750 f, rc24, year 1989 european model, are screws diferents as yours, and has this screw with washer and finish o ring, but when i opened, after 34 years working, the only one o ring only in finish position together washer , was almost dissolved, i put another new o ring together washer, you can get it at ebay or cheaper at aliexpres, and really motorbike seems like new,. At european models screww, are 2 turns and 3/8, but i think usa one are 2,5. Best regards since Spain Jorge
I'm in the process of rebuilding my 87 carbs and I have the same pilot screws as you do.. the aluminum head at the end free spins so far on 2 of them and when I pulled them mine had the o Ring on the inside 🤷🏻.. now I'm trying to source some pilot screws because the ones that came in the carb kit are half the length. how did 2 3/4 turns out work for you?
I was going to suggest contacting V4dreams.com but their website is gone, he may be out of business. Other than they, I can't suggest a place for the fuel screws. As for O-rings, if there's a place or groove towards the head of the screw for an O-Ring, I'd be using that one only. As for the carb kits, I assume you purchased some Chinese kits or perhaps K and L? Don't trust any parts in those kits. You can use them, just don't assume they're right. You can certainly get away with most of the rubber parts (nitrile or whatever it is) but the jets and slide needle9s) are often incorrect. Double check everything. As for the turns out, It was good at my initial testing which I reported in this video. However, further riding still showed a slight problem at that 5K mark and rolling out of that RPM range. I rejetted one more time and finally settled on 122's in the mains and 42 for the pilot or slow jets. 3 turns out is a good starting point. I honestly don't know where they are right now since I have fiddled with them a bit, but I'd be they're close to 3 maybe 3 and one quarter something like that. Cheers.
If it’s a US model I think those caps are supposed to be limits they can be turned, kinda like the lawn mower engines have so you can’t tamper with them. I’m not sure what’s behind that cap but you can possibly pop them off and re-glue them if necessary and grind the part that sticks out sideways which is supposed to be the limiter; then use as normal. I read somewhere they were initially glued on. If true, I’d use some JB Weld and carefully reattach them steering clear of the fine threads. Assuming, of course, the remaining parts of the screw are fine.
Next time I will look into leaving the bottom of the air box on like you did, I have in the past taken the whole kit off. I am into gen3 bikes, its nice how the Honda engineers designed holes in the frame to adjust those fuel mixture screws. The mechanical benefit of having the o-ring on the end of the mixture needle is that it holds the entire set up together when you screw it in (common sense stuff right?) I have a Morgan carb tool too, I use a special 90 degree carburetor tool, I misappropriated from my days at Triumph, makes synchronizing the carburetors a breeze (can do it in 5 minutes now! lol). Peace.
I have two of those tools, I use the motion pro shorty with the two bevel gears the most; however, what you need for this is really a 20 or 30 degree which would be difficult to use unless a part extended backwards to hold onto so the entire tool won't rotate. I'm gonna score an extra-long thin screwdriver somewhere (or make one probably) which will make getting in there a bit easier. Thanks.
Yes. But I don’t know about the jetting. You can go on a parts site and open two windows and look at both the 700 and 750 in the same carb fiche and compare part numbers. But I’m pretty sure they carb bodies are the same but not 100%.
I think the o ring is to prevent air being sucked in past the screw threads and upsetting the mixture calibration.
It therefore doesnt really matter which end it goes on, but at the pointy end it holds the tiny washer against the spring and holds everything together as you put it in the hole. Otherwise the washer could end up cockeyed and then bend and jam when the mixture screw is turned. You dont want to subsequently be digging out a bent washer .... believe me!!
Beautiful looking bike 👌
very often the small rubber o-ring on the ldle mix screw sticks to its seat and wont come out easily. oem coils are fine, no need for replacement. i have the same bike, owned it for 32 years.
Yea, I use a piece of thin mechanics wire with one end sharply bent over and go in there and pick them out. Many times if they're stuck like you said, shot of WD40 or carb clean / brake clean works to release it. I have to constantly remake the wire, because I always lose it.
@@MotoRestoFL i tried the wire trick once and ended up pushing the O-ring into the hole !!!
Experiencing some challenges with the same VFR 748 CC .
It starts very well and runs , after some running distance cylinder no 3 cuts off combustion and makes the bike lumpy . What could be the cause ????
we checked the carburettor, fuel pump .valve clearance okay 🆗 👍🏾
As a 74 year old mechanic I am deeply interested in watching your videos. I have 3 very special bikes and would love to see you rebuilding the carbs on a '94 V-Max like mine. I am just up the road a bit from you at Lake Panasoffkee. I also have a '14 CB1100 and a '10 VFR 1200
Obviously, the '10 and the '14 are outside my wheelhouse due to electronics and EFI, but I'd definitely be interested in the Vmax work. Hit me up email and I can go over the new information regarding how things have to run regarding the business side. motorestofl@gmail.com. I do not work through UA-cam comments, only email and then by phone. Or, look up my phone you'll find it, it's even written on the stalls of most bathrooms, so I am told. heheheh. You can also find this email on my channel main page, under the "about" heading. Cheers.
i worked on v-max carbs, some of the hardest to do partly cuz of the lingages.
Hello from the UK. Your videos are inspiring. I also have a '86 VFR750FG.
Another really good vid - good camera positions - great presenting style.
Thanks. I think today I might finally get to doing a test ride, if the ancient GoPro behaves, I'll see what I can do to record a voice-over from my Sena headset comm's to the phone and edit it up for the channel.
16016-KR3-671 does not seem to be model specifically correct for RC24.
16016-KR3-671 seems to be for some Nighthawks, GB500, XR650, smaller rebel…
It might still be correct fit (diameters, profiles, depth) for RC24 and seems to run very well.
Model specific mixture screw set seems to be the tradional type like shown on service manual. Since that 16016-KR3-671 has groove for o-ring, having o-ring only in this groove seems the way to go.
Problem with these older bikes is that sometimes some or all parts fiche’s have mistakes on them. I had such issue on my VF750C Magna ’86 with vale cover gaskets, all parts fiche’s listed flat gasket, but ’86 VF’s already have line bored cams…so, gasket is same as for super magna. Root cause surprisingly was on Honda’s own part fiche.
Nice video, very enjoyable to watch…like your videos always are.
Experiencing some challenges with the same VFR 748 CC .
It starts very well and runs , after some running distance cylinder no 3 cuts off combustion and makes the bike lumpy . What could be the cause ????
we checked the carburettor, fuel pump .valve clearance okay 🆗 👍🏾
Replace the spark plug. I have had a bunch of NGK's take a shat, had one the other day in an ATV that did it for a second time. The plugs spark well under testing then fail under load.
Great video as always! Where did you find the fuel lines to and from the fuel pump? Mine are as stiff as Peter North and will need to be replaced 😉 Thanks
Hello, great job, thanks for the clear work. My two Vfr 750 f, rc24, year 1989 european model, are screws diferents as yours, and has this screw with washer and finish o ring, but when i opened, after 34 years working, the only one o ring only in finish position together washer , was almost dissolved, i put another new o ring together washer, you can get it at ebay or cheaper at aliexpres, and really motorbike seems like new,. At european models screww, are 2 turns and 3/8, but i think usa one are 2,5.
Best regards since Spain
Jorge
Thanks for the video. Did you need larger jets for the Supertrapp exhaust?
Yes. I don’t remember the sizes off the top of my head though. It’s in one of my videos on this bike.
@@MotoRestoFL Thank you, I'll check out the video.
I'm in the process of rebuilding my 87 carbs and I have the same pilot screws as you do.. the aluminum head at the end free spins so far on 2 of them and when I pulled them mine had the o Ring on the inside 🤷🏻.. now I'm trying to source some pilot screws because the ones that came in the carb kit are half the length. how did 2 3/4 turns out work for you?
I was going to suggest contacting V4dreams.com but their website is gone, he may be out of business. Other than they, I can't suggest a place for the fuel screws. As for O-rings, if there's a place or groove towards the head of the screw for an O-Ring, I'd be using that one only. As for the carb kits, I assume you purchased some Chinese kits or perhaps K and L? Don't trust any parts in those kits. You can use them, just don't assume they're right. You can certainly get away with most of the rubber parts (nitrile or whatever it is) but the jets and slide needle9s) are often incorrect. Double check everything. As for the turns out, It was good at my initial testing which I reported in this video. However, further riding still showed a slight problem at that 5K mark and rolling out of that RPM range. I rejetted one more time and finally settled on 122's in the mains and 42 for the pilot or slow jets. 3 turns out is a good starting point. I honestly don't know where they are right now since I have fiddled with them a bit, but I'd be they're close to 3 maybe 3 and one quarter something like that. Cheers.
If it’s a US model I think those caps are supposed to be limits they can be turned, kinda like the lawn mower engines have so you can’t tamper with them. I’m not sure what’s behind that cap but you can possibly pop them off and re-glue them if necessary and grind the part that sticks out sideways which is supposed to be the limiter; then use as normal. I read somewhere they were initially glued on. If true, I’d use some JB Weld and carefully reattach them steering clear of the fine threads. Assuming, of course, the remaining parts of the screw are fine.
Next time I will look into leaving the bottom of the air box on like you did, I have in the past taken the whole kit off. I am into gen3 bikes, its nice how the Honda engineers designed holes in the frame to adjust those fuel mixture screws. The mechanical benefit of having the o-ring on the end of the mixture needle is that it holds the entire set up together when you screw it in (common sense stuff right?) I have a Morgan carb tool too, I use a special 90 degree carburetor tool, I misappropriated from my days at Triumph, makes synchronizing the carburetors a breeze (can do it in 5 minutes now! lol). Peace.
I have two of those tools, I use the motion pro shorty with the two bevel gears the most; however, what you need for this is really a 20 or 30 degree which would be difficult to use unless a part extended backwards to hold onto so the entire tool won't rotate. I'm gonna score an extra-long thin screwdriver somewhere (or make one probably) which will make getting in there a bit easier. Thanks.
Do you know if there is a difference between the 700 and 750 carbs from the same year? Thank you
Yes. But I don’t know about the jetting. You can go on a parts site and open two windows and look at both the 700 and 750 in the same carb fiche and compare part numbers. But I’m pretty sure they carb bodies are the same but not 100%.
I misread your question. Yes I mean they are the same far as I can tell.
Thank you sir, I just picked up a neglected 86 700F with 30k miles for 800$, needs some TLC. Internally, so far, seems to be in decent shape.
@@neems2135 cool. Shame these get neglected. But they need regular maintenance and running so it’s easy to see how that could happen.
I have a vfr750fk 1989 wanna no fuel mix screw settings I done them at 3 turns out need get my carbs balanced have streat threw exhust system
No way to tell without seeing the bike, unless it's bone stock then refer to the service manual.
@MotoRestoFL okay thank you for the reply I will get it in a garage get them to balance the carbs and dyno tune it for me
Course there's a few fumes being released...
Привет 😊😊😅😅😮😢🎉😂❤❤
Take it to a good local mechanic.
Ha. That’s a good one. There are no good mechanics. Whoops.
A lot of sexual innuendo, Hard, stiff, Hard Rubber, etc, I like it.
Yea, it's intended for mature audiences. Go watch Superbike Surgery LTD. F-bomb every other word, sometimes a bit much, but he's really good.