Love watching this kind of engine build. Nice clean easy. I’m trying to find a 122 or 142 here in Australia buts it’s hard with the much smaller number of cars here.
Well I thought it was going to be nice, clean, and easy... I kind of hit a snag with potential piston to valve clearance. I'll figure it out eventually though. Good luck with your search. I would love a 122.
Thanks Dean! I figured if you can get so much work done on that yellow 142, along with having like 39 other cars, I should be able to at least put an engine in mine…
I may be able to make some more progress on the B230 this winter. I had to put it on the back burner because I'm building myself a new shop right now, and that's taking all my time/money/energy.
.047 - .018' = .019'. Danger danger! You need .04' per 1000rpm squish minimum, 0.05' is safer so you need at least 0.032' for 8000rpm. I'd be looking at a thicker cometic hg to get the clearance given the 16v likes to rev.
Also also, it looks like the math is wrong. .047-.018=.029. That's still not enough for 8k given your formula, but at least it's closer to being safe for 7k. Seems like I should be looking at an MLS gasket around .5? Sorry for the rapid fire replies, just trying to figure this out. Would you use stock bolts with an MLS gasket? I don't want to use the ARP studs I have, as I've heard they lose clamp load over time because the washers dig into the aluminum head surface, and they don't have the right elasticity for aluminum expansion.
The oil dipstick will be a problem. On the 8-valve I simply cut a stock dipstick to fit into the B20 oil pan, and put new marks on it for the oil level. But with this engine, I think the intake manifold will be in the way. I’ll have to figure something else out.
Piston oil control ring job is to keep oil away from the piston ring, continue to pore oil straight to the piston rings, nr1 mistake almost all engine builders do 😅
I'd rather have things lubed up before the rings are seated than risk scoring the cylinder or seizing a ring on a bone dry start up. That oil will burn off in the first couple minutes anyway, and by then the top two rings should be pretty well seated. At least that's how I understand it. Do you install the pistons and rings completely dry?
@@tfrasca142 yea ofc I install them dry. I oil the innerside of the cylinderwall before I put the piston in and then turn the motor around by hand a couple of times. Oil on the piston rings will just sitt there cook and burn the first thing when you are starting the engine, and make the piston ring more likely to get stuck. This is also s prefered method from Jim's Automotive Machine Shop, you should check them out, I'm pretty sure they know what they are talking about....
This channel is severely underrated
Give us part 2!
we need more!!! this is mesmerizing
we need part 2
You and me both. I hit a bit of a snag in the form of building a new shop.
Holy crap man YESSS!! I applaud you for your attention to detail. I can't imagine how much work went into the filming and editing alone.
Thanks! Yeah, filming and editing easily triples the time it takes to get stuff done.
Great little video! Makes me look forward when my 16v redblock time will come!
Can't wait to see more!
ADam
Thanks!
Wow, nice engine, and even nicer video production quality.
At this rate I might as well stick a good ol red block in my car 😂
Stoked to see some progress on it, Tyler!
To be fair, my success rate with red blocks is 0/1 so far…
I’ve been mulling over this exact build for my current 240 and this may just push me, very well made video
I appreciate that, thanks. 16v is so much more complicated than a nice 8v setup, but should be really good when it’s done.
Pleasure to watch! Crossing my fingers for ya! ❤
Exited to see the process as I'm studying an auto mechanic course and will be doing this in a couple weeks!
Love watching this kind of engine build. Nice clean easy. I’m trying to find a 122 or 142 here in Australia buts it’s hard with the much smaller number of cars here.
Well I thought it was going to be nice, clean, and easy... I kind of hit a snag with potential piston to valve clearance. I'll figure it out eventually though. Good luck with your search. I would love a 122.
Great videos, looking forward to the new ones
Really nice build, filming and commentary, I'm eager to see the rest! Thank you!
Thanks! I can’t wait to get back on this project.
Great video, love seeing builds captured so well on film. subbed
You're living the dream 😍
Just a tip - The oil plug on the front by the water pump is unfiltered oil, i recommend a filter on you oil feed line 😁
Ah, I didn’t think of that. Thanks!
The slow tedious process. That thing looks great though!
Thanks Dean! I figured if you can get so much work done on that yellow 142, along with having like 39 other cars, I should be able to at least put an engine in mine…
@@tfrasca142 its a struggle as you know but little bites at a time is all it takes. This video makes me want to dig out my “extra cam” B230.
Really cool project! I'm building an 8v turbo redblock for my yellow 77 244 with around the same power goals. Looking forward to the next episode!
Nice! I love the early 240s. Next episode should be a good one, just collecting parts.
The same power from an 8V?
good job!! looks like a great build!
Thanks! I'm still waiting on a few more parts to bolt the head on, but hopefully those show up and we can continue soon.
Very nice video! Question: how did you secure the crank when tightning the crankshaft pulley?
At 16:59 you can see the steel flat bar I put between two crank bolts and the engine stand to hold the crank.
Hi man! Love this video, very informative. How is the project going? Can we expact a part 2 soon? Greetings from the Netherlands
I’m hoping to get back on it soon! I’m building a new shop in my backyard and that’s been taking all my free time lately.
Cool! I totale understand. Have fun with it:)
very good video, when will the second part come?
As soon as I find the time. Right now I'm scrambling to get my new shop built before the rain starts. That's been taking up all my time lately.
Wow, awsome quality! When will the next part come?
I may be able to make some more progress on the B230 this winter. I had to put it on the back burner because I'm building myself a new shop right now, and that's taking all my time/money/energy.
@@tfrasca142 take your time!
.047 - .018' = .019'. Danger danger! You need .04' per 1000rpm squish minimum, 0.05' is safer so you need at least 0.032' for 8000rpm. I'd be looking at a thicker cometic hg to get the clearance given the 16v likes to rev.
Ok this is good info! So you’re saying I’m at risk of the piston hitting the head itself, not even just the valves?
Also, I assume you mean .004-.005 per 1000 rpm, right?
Also also, it looks like the math is wrong. .047-.018=.029. That's still not enough for 8k given your formula, but at least it's closer to being safe for 7k. Seems like I should be looking at an MLS gasket around .5? Sorry for the rapid fire replies, just trying to figure this out. Would you use stock bolts with an MLS gasket? I don't want to use the ARP studs I have, as I've heard they lose clamp load over time because the washers dig into the aluminum head surface, and they don't have the right elasticity for aluminum expansion.
@@tfrasca142 yeah sorry. It's still very close. You should use a dial guage to measure the difference too.
@@tfrasca142 and I've not heard about issues with head studs. They offer superior clamping so it's a no brainer to use.
tell on the nest clipp how u do with the oil stik.. oil level and all that.
The oil dipstick will be a problem. On the 8-valve I simply cut a stock dipstick to fit into the B20 oil pan, and put new marks on it for the oil level. But with this engine, I think the intake manifold will be in the way. I’ll have to figure something else out.
Piston oil control ring job is to keep oil away from the piston ring, continue to pore oil straight to the piston rings, nr1 mistake almost all engine builders do 😅
I'd rather have things lubed up before the rings are seated than risk scoring the cylinder or seizing a ring on a bone dry start up. That oil will burn off in the first couple minutes anyway, and by then the top two rings should be pretty well seated. At least that's how I understand it. Do you install the pistons and rings completely dry?
@@tfrasca142 yea ofc I install them dry. I oil the innerside of the cylinderwall before I put the piston in and then turn the motor around by hand a couple of times. Oil on the piston rings will just sitt there cook and burn the first thing when you are starting the engine, and make the piston ring more likely to get stuck. This is also s prefered method from Jim's Automotive Machine Shop, you should check them out, I'm pretty sure they know what they are talking about....
@@oscarolander7455 I'll check it out, thanks for the tip.
It's actually not 17 18 thousands of an inch,that's nearly half a mm,more likely 1.5 to 2 thou clearance. Love the engine build though!
What part are you talking about? The height of the piston above the deck?
@tfrasca142 was watching crank clearance to bearings was only start off video
@@plantpoweredhealth9383 Oh yeah good catch! Definitely not 17 thou...
Your content is awesome! ! Are you interested in cooperating on related products?