Pinion Shafts Turned in the CNC Lathe
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- I have recently gotten back into training with Fusion 360 and this job is the first project that I have successfully drawn up using the Fusion CAD and CAM. These parts are pinion shafts for cnc routers that are no longer available from the manufacturer and my customer wanted a batch of 8 to have as spares. It took some trial and errors but after getting the program adjusted I was able to knock out 8 shafts that were dead on accurate in a very short amount of time.
If you're looking for help with Fusion 360 contact Kevin @MechanicalAdvantage He offers hourly training via Zoom and he's been very helpful for me so far!
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I’m a hobby machinist and started learning Fusion 360 for about 3 years. I’m proficient enough now to create shop drawings for everything I do now. I just finished a shop built CNC mill ( modeled in Fusion 360 of course) and now I’m learning to generate the g code from Fusion. I’m approaching 70 years old so I try to keep learning new skills to stay sharp.
I think viewers forget that Adam has been a professional machinist for decades.
Just for future jobs, when you model the part for the second operation, add an extra .100 of stock (or whatever), then let it take the face in multiple passes. If you happen to cut one a bit long at the bandsaw, it will handle it. If you cut them close, it might have an extra pass where its just cutting air, but still faster and safer. Learned that for my CNC mill. Makes it so I don't have to be super precise at the band saw, and prevents an uh-oh of cutting too heavy if I leave a bit more. Definitely a huge learning curve though, but you're making great progress.
I'm glad to see you adding CAD/CAM to the shop. Once you get a handle on it, you'll work a LOT faster on batch runs. Right now, it's slower, because there's a steep learning curve, but soon, you'll be rocking the software, and making changes on the fly will be easy.
I'm impressed Abom learning something new after years of the older ways. It harder or at least feels harder to do that as one gets older. I think back at my dad in the late 1960's having to learn to use a computer, hard drive, and punch cards instead of all paperwork when middle aged for his work or be replaced. It was scary for him, but learned it all and keep up with new computer stuff at home until his late 80's when things like seeing and getting fingers to work, didn't work well. I know for alot of young people, alot of that stuff seems to come more naturally. I would go to my kids, when I finally got a cell phone, to help with problems, but they grew up and moved away, luck I have siblings that can help with some of that stuff now. Just setting up a new phone... Would like to learn alot like 3D printers, cnc, etc. Abom gives me inspiration. All that stuff can be intimidating to an old man in his upper 60's.
I have an elderly retired machinist friend who said, the slippage issue could be from tightening with a single point. He always tightened his from multiple points . Something about balancing pressures, as one point puts most pressure on the closest jaws, farther ones not so from metal flex and stretch.
I'd be using a 3 or 4 jaw chuck. 6 jaws in my opinion are ideal when working with thin wall material like tubing to prevent crush. They do not have the grip strength like a 3 or 4 has.
we kept having issues with our manual key chuck on our CNC lathe as well. Always pushed parts back.
We made up a chuck key to 1/2" square drive adapter and now use a torque wrench on the chuck every time.
(clamp down as much as we can but stay below maximum spec from the chuck mfg)
Has made a night and day difference.
I'll stay no matter what you're working on...like your willingness to always push through the hiccups (and learning curve) and to complete the job accurately - no matter what it takes. When you do ANY project this way,...I learn. It's exactly why I started watching your channel in the first place.
Hi Adam. Looking back to the days of watching you being all nostalgic with the shaper, I am glad to see you becoming familiar with the CNC. It's going to take some time, but you of all people will master it. Thank you for showing us your process of understanding and solving the issues of learning something new.
Few tips. 1 drop the 6 jaw. Go with a 3 jaw with more aggressive jaws. More bite less pushing. 2 always leave .005 on the face. Let your finish turn take the finish pass. You csn blend a small rad or chamfer alot easier. 3. If your doing production use one of your tools as a bump stop. So you don't need to scale everyone. For 8 pcs. No biggie. But if you got hundreds. It's gonna be a pain. I was a manual guy for ever. Now doing cnc. I've learned alot. Any help I can give. I will.
Use also a torque wrench to tighten up the chuck
SIX JAWS TWICE AS GOOD AS 3 JAWS ROOKIES.
@jackjohnson6074 I've been in a machine shop since I was in diapers. 6 jaw is for light pressure with minimal machining for light pressure. 3 jaw is for everything else. I run cobalt chrome everyday. I'd never even think to try a 6 jaw. It would push right through the spindle with all the tool pressure
@@Bighorse508 REAL MEN USE 4 JAWS SISSY BOY
Only time any 6 jaw chuck works ok is on thin walled tubing or similar work. There is no possible way for all 6 jaws to make identical contact on a solid round.. and know that solid round will never be absolutely round and those 6 jaws are never identical in their holding position. Add to this 6 jaw chucks are fragile due to their thinned out body to accommodate those 6 jaws.
What should be on a cnc lathe is a chuck like a kitagawa pneumatic or hydraulic 3 jaw with soft jaws made to fit the part to be made. Alternative would be any number of pneumatic/hydraulic collet cnc specific chucks. This does and will cure the repeatability problem. This shaft can be made full length with the tail stock as support, no flip over until finish facing.
We use a spindle stop on alot of parts to make sure it can't move & also for repeatability for flipping and facing to length. By the way, as you're learning how to use the software at computer or on the machine, I can't stress enough how easy and important it is to JUST edit the code to make it do what you want. I mean we have run parts for 30 yrs or so and still edit code all the time. Material, temps, all kinds of things can contribute but you have full control by just editing the code as needed. If I could be of any help with that I sure don't mine. I would like to see the Gcode on the screen on every job. It holds the answers to about any problem your having with machining. Enjoy your stuff Adam, I really do.
This is exactly what I like to see, great after a long day working to come home collapse in a heap infront of my TV and watch some Abom79 videos!
I setup, program, and operate Samsung cnc lathes of all sizes with Fanuc controls. I do a ton of work on a Samsung sl-25 which is a small machine too. We use hydraulic 3 jaw chucks and most of my setups the jaw pressure ranges from 100psi all the way up to 400psi. Unfortunately I just think you're not going even remotely tight enough. Others suggested a long torque wrench that would be my preferred method when it comes to a manual chuck in a cnc. just my opinion.
Used to make a lot of precision parts out of inconel about that size. I would always change out the chuck for a collet head and use a dead stop on the second op. Super repeatable and you don't need to squeeze the material so hard. Otherwise as someone else noted I think you would be better of switching to a 3 jaw chuck and cutting some soft jaws for the 2nd op.
When I joined my current company, they were new to CNC and their mistakes look very similar to yours. They looked at the CNC lathe and mill as if they were going to continue their manual machining processes. They even wanted to use HSS tools.
I was the only one there with CNC experience even though they were absolutely excellent in the manual.
I recommended collets (3J for greater range- they chose 5C since they had a bunch)
Carbide tooling
Coolant recommended by manufacturer for CNC
All operations possible per setup
Etc…
We kept the 3 jaw chuck for when we needed it.
nice video, Adam. The axles are manufactured very quickly and with great precision. For the chuck to maintain precision, it is good to adjust the 3 pinions, otherwise one claw tightens a little more than the others and over a long time it wears out and loses cocentricity. Thanks and regards
Lots of learning going on. Thanks for walking us viewers through. This is big. CAD is no joke. The filming makes the trip more understandable. Thanks
Adam, This is great, been waiting for this video since you got the CNC machines. Finally integrating Fusion 360 into your process. No worries with the mistakes. Sometimes you win, sometimes you learn! Learning is not failing. Definition of failing is quit.
It appears that you would be better off using a right angle chuck tool over a T handle so that you could apply greater force much easier. Even a T handle with a sliding handle would be better. Nice to see you working with 360 and the CNC lathe. Thanks for sharing.
Kevin Ellingson is excellent at Fusion 360 and the teaching of it. His YT channel Mechanical Advantage has so many great video tutorials. I am so glad he’s getting the exposure he deserves now, his channel needs to have a much larger audience because it’s pure quality.
💡Adam, just a conjecture, but I had this guess why the six jaw slips. Partly, as you say, you have an awkward angle to grasp the bar. But in addition to that, the torque you apply is being distributed over twice as many jaws, so that each jaw only applies half as much gripping force.
but there's twice as many jaws applying that force so the total force being applied is the same
@@gigaherz_ Bingo, on a smooth surface, spreading the force across more jaws is a net zero. The pitch of the scroll may be different, shallower pitch would give more force for a given torque on the handle.
I was going to add an additional sentence, anticipating this objection. I should have. Here's what I should have added. While the inward force is directly proportional to the torque, the same is not true of the tendency not to slip, which is highly nonlinear; in fact it can approximate a step function.
As an example of the nonlinearity in another field, notice that drag racers are 👉not 👈 indifferent to whether they mount wide or narrow tires.
@@lurkmoar3926 That is different, that is not two hard smooth surfaces.
Numerous machinists I have watched on UA-cam tighten the chuck at multiple locations by rotating the chuck 120 degrees each time. Some do all three points around the chuck. Might be worth a try.
Without a hydraulic chuck, you should always use a torque wrench on the chuck for consistent tightness.
Adam, there is a lot of mass in the mechanical assembly of that 6 jaw chuck. In my experience with them even though you have a better grip on the part they always need a little extra torque to tighten them up.
I'm just a hobbyist, but one thing I've figured out in my limited CNC experience is, if I'm only making a few parts, there is no point in pushing the feeds and speeds to the limits of the machine, workholding, and tooling. If I spend half a day programming a part, and an hour setting up the machine, who cares if each part takes three minutes or five to cut?
Optimal cutting velocities are responsible for your surface finish (and many other things, like the service life of your cutting tools)
I guess that matters at least for you?:) Learning that (and understanding!!!) takes months and deep understanding in machining processes and material science. And sitting down, actually calculating this (and not praying to god) can sometimes take more than three or five minutes. Which, I guess we can agree on that, is not wasted time.
I don't understand the way you go with your argument ... those arbitrary time durations or the emphasis on that fast=bad and slow=good (could have misunderstood you) example/understanding. That is just nonsense!:) USE THE RIGHT SPEEDS, the appropriate ones: RTFM! (Sorry, but that is true. READ THE DATASHEET of the manufacturer and your machining handbook) Hehehe:)
@@dieSpinnt As long as we are throwing insults at each other, you are the one spouting nonsense. There is usually a range of feed and speed values that works will for a particular tool and material.
Manufacturers "optimal" recommendations, in my limited experience, skew towards the aggressive end--maximizing material removal rate at the expense of other factors. This is especially the case for roughing operations, which is where Adam was having trouble (and where surface finish is less critical). The manufacturers' aggressive approach makes sense for production scenarios, less so for short runs and one-offs.
I find that, with my (admittedly underpowered) machines, I tend to get the best results choosing speeds at the low end of manufacturer's recommendations, or even below their recommended range, as long as I keep the feed and speed proportional in order to maintain an adequate chip thickness. I find that approach helps me avoid workholding and toolholding problems and broken tools.
High speeds result in heavier cutting loads and a greater likelihood that the work will move, as Adam was experiencing. Does that mean you should make your cuts with a 0.0001" chip load or a 0.001" stepover? Of course not. Too little load on the tool also has downsides for surface finish, tool life and, of course, cutting time. But the notion that there is one exact speed and feed setting, allowed, and if you deviate from that at all, your part is crap? That is "just nonsense."
Of course, if I were going to make 1000 of something, I would be willing to invest more time into figuring out how far I can push the MRR. Even then, I would use the manufacturer's recommendations as the starting point for experimentation.
And I am aware that some materials, like stainless, are much more particular about feeds/speeds than others. Although even with stainless, I have found you can slow down quite a bit as long as you keep the chips thick enough to get under the work hardening.
And, yes, if your workholding slips, that suggests you are in the range where fast=bad and slow=good.
Perhaps you should try using a torque wrench to tighten the chuck. You get better leverage and after you find the sweet spot to tighten it, you can set the torque and easily tighten it so it won’t push the work back.
excelent photography. Love the scenes with the camera on the tool changer
Tighten your chuck with a torque wrench....you will have more leverage and will know that it is tightened correctly.
Recommend using soft jaws and bore them for the stock size with maximum amount of contact
Always look forward People who cast negative views have there own issues. I wish you the best and good luck in you journey
6:15 This stuff is SOO amazing!! .. Semi production runs like this are REAL money makes too.
I've mentioned before I programed and ran CNC Lathes back in the day, NOTHING complicated like they have today, (programs were stored on paper ticker tape :) ) BUT stuff we made $4 or $5 a part markup on . and orders started at 100 pieces! :)
Once you have the program down pat (really doesn't matter how long it takes) then you sit back and collect the parts! :)
I used to program the next job while the machine was running sometimes :)
Out of curiosity what RPM were you running? I remember reading sometime back how much the clamping force goes down as the rpm increases due to the jaws trying to open from centrifugal force, it was mind blowing how big a percentage of clamp force you lose at higher and higher rpms above 1500. Might be something to consider. Also maybe do some tests on spindle start stops, maybe the scroll is being acted on when the spindle hard starts causing it to start to loosen?
I guess this is why most machines run hydraulic chucks, they way they work their clamping force has much higher mechanical advantage to stay secure. Problem with hydraulic chucks is you aren't sure how much force they are exerting like you know when you tighten a key. And they have such a limited range of clamping you are constantly adjusting the jaw position or machining soft jaws.
Adam - you're so experienced you'll learn heaps from the errors / mistakes / set-backs and you can't teach experience. Fab presentation
With scroll chucks your pressure is divided by the amount of jaws so 150 ftlbs only equals 25 ft lbs per jaw and each jaw has maybe .200 of contact
Your best bet on those to get some repeatability is to turn the large side and middle first, then do the bearing journal side second. You could even indicate your 5C collet block in the chuck and hold it in a collet to get within .001 TIR.
It's not an aerospace job train
Seems to me,a 5-C collet chuck with a back stop ,would work much better than that 6 jaw chuck for those parts
Yep.
You could simply reverse the 1st and 2nd ops and it would work just fine. Cut the straight shank first, then turn it around and stop against the jaws to cut the stepped shaft.
Just noticed something pretty crazy...I thought i been watching Abom79 since the beginning. Lol
Not even close, his oldest video is from 10 friggin years ago
AB sometimes you'll have to use a socket breaker bar with a HEX socket to get chucks in CNC's to tighten up. 👉👉Especially on much harder materials.
I've never used a 6 jaw chuck, but on machines with a 3 jaw chuck, I've got a deflection type torque wrench hanging on the machine. Solid parts are torqued to between 70 to 80 Ft Lbs. I've never had a part slide in the jaws.
🎶 “To everything turn, turn, turn… “ 🎶
Sorry, couldn’t resist. 😜
Stay steady with it you will get it. Every time I try and learn something new. I try and do just a little every day or two to keep my mind working on it. When I started with Fusion I tried and model a new part every day. No matter if it was something I need or not. Less time I have just means smaller items. By the way great job Adam
Keep in mind that while the total clamping force is the same for 3 jaw and 6 jaw the individule jaw force will be half for the same amount of effort on the jaw tightening wrench when spread out over 6 jaws vs 3 jaws. Ray
Next time try this if you want to use the shoulder as a solid stop make a spacer slightly bigger in diameter and slightly longer than your bearing race. Then you have confidence when you use it that things will come out in a consistent fashion
Kudos Adam on the cnc education progress.
I wonder if you could use a ratchet or torque wrench instead of the chuck key. It will give you more leverage and keep you from the wall. if you use a torque wrench you'll know you hit the mark to tighten it the same all the time.
For your rough sawing, why aren't you setting a stop so they are all the same length?
it’s good to see you again, Adam!
Hi Adam watching you turn up those small shafts we and I always use the pipe on that Chuck wrench I know it sounds unorthodox but that's how you get it to run tight the other thing you can do is a stop through the spindle to keep your stock from pushing back I thought this would help you
Maybe you need to skim cut the inside of the jaws in situ, perhaps inconsistency in the gripping face of the jaws leading to uneven pressure on the workpiece allowing it to slip. If you preload the jaw and skim them it should even the load on each. Just a thought, IIRC Stefan Gotteswinter did this to one of his six jaw vises.
That's exactly what he needs to do pal. You hit the nail on the head 😮
there will always be some bad parts at the beginning with a new tool, until you learn what works and what doesn't.
even if you get a few bad parts now and then, it's important not to lose confidence and keep practicing. it's the only way to learn and get better.
must admit that I think it is strange that they make new CNC machines without a hydraulic chuck, this is something I have not seen elsewhere.
Hard jaws are more likely to slip or spin than soft jaws, so learning how to make soft jaws for CNC machines is an important thing.
another option is to use a collet chuck.
another tip I would give is to reduce the protrusion of the tools in the CNC machine as much as possible,
this includes cutting the stem of the tools if necessary, as this will give you more stability.
keep practicing and you'll be an expert at CNC before you know it.
great video, keep it up👍
Adam, Another great video, I look forward each week for all your new one's.
See also the massive power EdgePrecision throws ad his clamping!
I wonder if tightening on a few different spots around the chuck might help. Maybe tightening on only one side is leaving some of the other jaws loose enough to not get a good grip.
I like the other ideas of using torque wrench to at least eliminate consistency in tightening.
For absolutely everything, whether it's doing it by hand or with CNC, there's often a dozen ways to reach your goal. One problem is that you can end up "searching for the ideal solution" than it would take to "do something that you know works". The key is to get the job done, right? If you realize, along the way, that there's a better way, do that - if it's not too much work.
Make a note (on paper, in a computer, in your head, whatever works for you), to try a different way next time, if it's not something you can just adapt - and reprogramming the CNC would likely be one of those things.
It's exactly like the "Why do you use the shaper to do this, when you have a mill" - well, part of that is the "My workshop, my choice", right - and part of it is "I'm learning how to use this machine, I'll get better at it as time goes". I'm sure if you'd started out using CNC when you first started working in your dad's workshop, rather than using manual machines, you'd be just as good at that as you are at manual machining - but that's not what your dad's workshop was, and your life took a different turn than that. Nothing wrong with that, just have to learn how to do things a different way.
I sometimes wonder what my life would be like, if I'd spent more time working with my uncle, who had lathes, mills and a lot of welding equipment, etc. Unfortunately, I lived 300 miles away, so I only came to visit maybe once a year or so - and often we stayed with another relative, and only had an afternoon for lunch and a chat at my uncle's.
Lol, i know right
I could watch this stuff all day.
Idk why but it's just 👍
im sure you already know that but just in case you dont, the higher the rpm the less the chuck clamps on the part because of centrifugal force
Got to remember the centrifugal forces on the chuck jaws are rather big with those RPM's. Some machinists are suggesting a 6 jaw has less clamping power than the 3 or 4 jaws.
If the stock is moving on the CNC it should reproduce that on a lathe I would think unless the feed rate and RPM has an affect of their own.
Put your 3 jaw chuck back in the machine. Put some aggressive tooth hard jaws in for the first end. Then get some soft machinable jaws for the second op, bore them out for the second op so they match the first end exactly. You will have a much better experience than that ridiculous 6 jaw chuck.
Saturady night fun 🎉
Thanks for being honest and knowing you do test parts first. I thought I truly sucked having to do test parts first before doing finish jobs
Get yourself a digital torque wrench w/ an adapter that will tighten your chuck and that way you can avoid under or over tightening.
Adam, I would say that by tightening at only one point on the chuck you have an imbalance in the force holding the part and it works loose eventually. I would suggest that you tighten all three points on the chuck, that would evenly hold the part.
That's wrong, it make no difference, and clever people than either of us have suggested that it's actually a bad idea.
Have you thought of making a sliding t handle for the CNC lathe? Would give you more Abomb torque IMO.
forgive my ignorance - i'm just an armchair machinist (I just watch you masters on youtube that is) but couldn't you use a torque wrench on the chuck in the CNC? you could get consistent tighten values and it wouldn't be hitting the back wall behind the chuck, Just my inexperienced .02. If I am outta my lane, I will just go back to my armchair.
Pretty sure torque wrench is the ticket for the chuck to achieve repeatability
Learning new things! And sometimes you just have to do it the "old" way to get the job done.
I'd suggest a breaker bar for that chuck instead of the T-handle. It'd be easier to use in the CNC, I think.
Are you using a cad mouse (second mouse like a Space Mouse)? If not, it’s life changing in fusion 360!
Doesn’t look like it.
No way I would go without my 3D Connexion anymore. I do a few tweaks on my CNC PC's occasionally in Fusion but for more than a tweak back to my main workstation where it lives.
Torque wrench, get the values from the chuck manufacturer. Anything else is a guess, and consistency is important.
Adam, Love the way you keep learning, and leaving the problems you encounter in the videos makes them far more instructive. Re the Chuck, could you make a chuck wrench adapter for a torque wrench or breaker bar or ratchet to avoid the awkward Chuck wrench clearance issue?
Use a click wrench to get a consistent torque on the chuck
Ive never seen a cnc lathe without a hydraulic or pneumatic chuck and a bar feeder
It's a toolroom lathe, not a production lathe.
Does anybody have an answer?
Previously, when tightening the chuck Adam has tightened at each of the three positions for the chuck key, eliminating any residual backlash at the interface between the spiral and the jaws.
I'm guessing it is more important on a six jaw chuck than on a three jaw, because three jaws naturally even out, like a three legged stool.
I'm also guessing the harder the material, the more important it is to eliminate any pressure differences between the jaws and the workpiece.
There was also no mention of precision grinding the jaws in the box opening video. Or use softer, sacrificial jaws? that'll teach me to go to the end before commenting!
❤ I like it. Shiny too.❤ Keep up the practice you are doing great things learning CNC CAD.
Ah, CNC content to appease those coping and seething last week
Thx god for Fusion 360. If it weren't for that program I would have been financially screwed a long time ago.
Id say making a small sleeve to go over the bearing surface and extend past the bearing step by a nominal size. and just run a new off set for the part. and work the demensions backwords
Consider using a collet to hold the workpiece on a machined surface.
When you finish this job you should seriously consider making a hard stop for the lathe spindle ... all of them. You won't have to worry about work pushing back and having to measure your stick out every time.
A collet chuck for that size work would be great
G'Day Adam,Mate your slipping problem come back to stock roundness and your 6 jw chuck,,with 6 jaws self centreing chuck your stock need to be round,,a couple of jaws are holding your job while the other are just closed enough to make you think you have it,,change back to 3 jaw and watch your problem just go away,,3 point of contact Not six,3 points always tight,,has to be,,even when your jaws are shot,,still have 3 points of contact,where as your six jaws may only be holding by two,,could never under stand why six,,???
The other Problem may be?? your chuck need machining to close poroperly,,Not all the jaws are in a closed position,,Or the same distance from centre position,,
and you know how this can affect high pressure machining like all the negative rake tools used these days,,about the only thing i can think of Now,,
Maybe material is just too hard to get a grip on,,or slippery because of rolled finish on stock,
could give them a rough grind just to give surface a bit of grip,??
This was really interesting! It looks like you are taking a proper approach. I have a few questions and suggestions. First, isn't Fusion CAD used across the industry? I know that this wouldn't work with this particular customer, but won't there be future customers who could give you the equivalent of a blueprint but in the form of a Fusion CAD drawing?
Also, I know that when you do manual machining, you are always super careful to stop vibrations in the part. Generally you solve these problems with a lot of experience in speeds, feeds, and selection of cutting tools. Here, I heard a lot of pure, high-pitched ringing when you were reducing the diameter of the part. I noticed that the ringing got worse as the part diameter decreased. You also said that you were using a high-tensile variant of a steel that you had used in the past. If you have a part that is ringing like crazy, won't it tend to "walk" around in the work holder? My physics spidey sense reminds me of a hockey game played on a vibrating table. The pucks move on the vibrating surface with almost no friction.
Also, I follow precision machinists Stephan Gotteswinter and Joe Pie. They tend to use collets rather than chucks for parts not that much smaller than your workpieces.
seems you could the second end first, that would index much better once its turned around
When you installed the six jaw I noticed you were tightening the jaws from the zero chuck screw for repeatability. Have you tried that process with snugging the other two chuck bolts to balance the load on the jaws? If so, did it effect the repeatability? I’ve always tightened 3 & 4 jaw chucks with all the chuck screws. Is that particular 6 jaw chuck that much more sensitive that snugging all the chuck screws throws off the repeatability? Just curious.
Couldn’t you weld up a ratcheting “T” wrench to be able to get the wrench in a good powerful pull position to comfortably tighten that chuck down good and tight?
No stop on the saw? It’s a nice saw, I think it should cut more accurately than what it looks like when you’re facing them off after.
14:20 In the production shop we used a Collet and Bar Feed system, so it could part off, feed out the material and make the next piece automatically. The Collet was tightened with hydraulic force so it was REALLY tight, but we still got push back occasionally.
SO we had to add extra cuts when roughing, which slowed production.
On some jobs we used soft jaws machined to suit that job, with a positive STOP or base in the back of the jaws to push against when roughing ... so the part could NOT be forced back.
It must be quite something, with all your knowledge, to come into something so new and complicated. But you learn *fast*.
I noticed that you only tighten the chuck in postion place instead of multiple positions like you do on your manual lathe. Could this make a difference?
I think you need a breaker bar with a ratchet barrel and a square drive bit to tighten up the chuck try it keep up the good work
Definitely change your chuck key to a right angle or a socket on a torque wrench. That will help you with the inconsistent jaw pressure.
Love the videos, man I miss being in the workshop.
I think you should have started with the other end, the journal on the shorter end would have been plenty to hold on to for the longer side.
I noticed that you only tigntened the primary pinion where as you usually go around the chuck and tignten all three. Is it not necessary on the 6 jaw chuck?
I’m no machinest but I would switch out to a big 1/2” torque wrench and a breaker bar for that lathe issue. At least you’d save your palms from trying to do that with a t handle.
Yeah, definitely use a torque wrench so you don't have to guess how tight you're doing it. All the cool kids use torque wrenches for work holding, and make the setting a part of the set up notes
Could you have machined a collar/ring/spacer to slide over that journal, so that the chuck could clamp on the middle section and still "press" against the large diameter section?
My man;)
just make a collar for the jaws to register against the large shoulder.
I've seen a lot of people using torque wrenches or even breaker bars on their CNC lathe chucks like some other people here suggested. Keep screwing up, it's the only way you learn. Just make sure you're screwing up something different each time.
@16:42 Wouldn't it make sense to tighten the three points on the chuck instead of just one? Just like a drill chuck, always tighten all three. 🤔
Isn't that the new 6 jaw chuck you just installed on there?
Some time when spinning high RPM on the late can make the jaw moving out (Centrifugal force). Then you dont have the clamping force on the part as you think.
I think hes spinning it too fast as well, cuz the chuck is only rated for 1900rpm, and it sounds like a lot more
It’s rated for 2,400.
you are getting it.. 3D printing probably helped you a lot.. I learned a bunch of design and cad stuff 3D printing.