A good video comparison. I hope to see more like this. I don't make knives, but this video can help anyone who uses metal tools. Keep the great vids coming
Thanks so much for this video,, I was searching for food safe blade rust prevention, and came across your video,, !! I was all set to order some beeswax, and your information has confirmed what I was thinking, !! So, just subbed,,, All the best from across the pond,, 😀
Well a good test for immediate water repellent capability. For linseed oil and ting oil - they are drying oils that form a polymer. Once the polymer has formed the finish is better than paint. Beeswax wears off and has to be reapplied.
Still this is good information. It seems it would be best to apply linseed oil, let it harden and polymerize, and then after that apply beeswax as an extra water resistant coating on top of that. Just my two cents, I don't speak from years of experience, just a guess.
Linseed oil has been used for years by farmers to protect metal and wood. What's good about it is that it protects both of them and is very quick and easy to apply. It will leave a nice-looking patina if you wire brush the metal first. Also can be used on gun stocks.
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. I had a feeling beeswax would be the winner here. I've been using a homemade beeswax/oil blend on my cast iron which works great. After your video I feel safe using it on a tin lampshade outdoors(high humidity here in Northern Virginia). Thanks again!
Problem: you heated the metal first to prepare it for beeswax which may have formed a thin protective layer of oxidation that got sealed in by the wax. Could you repeat the experiment by heating every piece of metal before submerging it in the treatment?
Heat or no heat, even if he just heated the wax instead of the metal the outcome would have more than likely the same, the wax melts around the metal making an (Semi)impermeable coating. Personally I'd stick with an oil, oils for sure more durable/heat resistant, wax could just chip/rub off after a couple uses? I dunno I don't work here. . .
@@Cam.j.c it probably won't make a difference like you said, but if you heat a piece of metal and put it in something cold (like oil or wax) it will effectively quench the metal which changes its hardness - could you then rightly call it the same metal? Same reason boiling room temperature water in glass is not the same as dropping glass at 212° into room temperature water. The rapid change in temperature and the lack of uniform change will cause the glass to explode. It probably didn't change the results of the experiment - but it could have. That's all I'm saying.
It's not only possible but commercially available. It's used for the cavities but you can spray everything as long as you have a compressor and some spray gun. And rapeseed oil should work as well and it's cheaper
I use Remington gun oil for my non-food blades. For food safe blades I prefer walnut or beeswax. Here in dry CO, just about anything will work. Never had so much as a rusty fingerprint on any blade. I don’t know if linseed goes bad, but I’ll have to look into that now.
interesting feature of linseed (& tung) is that it's not just a barrier. it absorbs oxygen to polymerize, so it scavenges oxygen trapped next to the metal
I think the Johnson wax may have been an application issue. A cooking oil like Canola and Vaseline would have been good to include in the test. Good job conducting the test in a manner to get a fair result.
Yeah, I would be curious how oil finishes works when left down to cure (or at least dry) properly. I use pure baked tung oil as guitar finish and it takes apx 1 week to dry properly. I guess the spots on both linseed and tung oil pieces are from water washing down the finish before it dried...
hi mate, thx for the comparison. I am looking for a solution for my offset smoker BBQ. A lot of others use linseed oil but beeswax seems to be better solution. When I watch other videos they heat the oil either with flame torch or by firing up the BBQ very hot. This way it has a chemical reaction and becomes extra hard. Are you aware of this technique?
@Quinten Jacobs I don't know all the science but I like to relate it to cast iron pans. When you cook with a cast iron and take care of it properly the oil slowly builds a resin like protection against rust and sticking. It's the same with heating up metal and applying beeswax it "cooks" the bees wax on to the surface of the metal instead of it just being like an oiled cast iron pan that hasn't been heated up.
Try it with 5160 I'm curious because I have a few kukris in that steel that will rust quite easily. Maybe dip the steel in linseed and tung oil like you did in the acid and just let it air dry. It may make a big difference. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for providing this great video! I'd like to try using Bees Wax to protect metal, such as my table saw and wood planes from rusting. Can you please tell me if you purchased a "paste" bees wax or if you warmed it up to apply it to the metal? The only Bees Wax I'm familiar with comes in blocks.
i mean this test works great for static objects but with objects like tools it might be different because of the wear, so hypothetically speaking if the bees wax gets scraped of after slight use but lets say wd-40 stays on for months even with heavy use i would clasify wd-40 as 'better'" then beeswax because beeswax protects better but wd-40 protects longer, i would love to see this test done again but implement some kind of wear and tear part into the test, like ontop of spraying the parts with water every day you also rub them on the ground every day to simulate use
@@jaggedmountainknives wow i didnt expect an answer, let alone so quickly and a positive one :D you could also coat both sides but only do the wear and tear part of the test on one side so you could have a somewhat direct comparison between the difference the wear does to the coating
WD40 absolutely doesn't last well, it's basically just solvents and will wash off with a small amount of water. Something like linseed oil, however, will "cure" and polymerise and probably form a more durable coating than wax.
Who knew the most natural of these products would be the best for rust prevention. All of these manufacturing plants selling snake oil, and polluting the environment on top of that, when we had the answer to rust prevention the entire time.
The linseed oil, the steel needs to be heated to around 400F otherwise it will not convert the oil into polymers and the polymers won't bake on, that's what protects the steel, and the oil just runs off.
I know this is an old video, but Acid...why? Acid is used to REMOVE rust, not prevent it. A protective film (beeswax, etc.) should be applied after the acid = why the control was slightly less corroded. Use salt water spray to enhance the short-term duration testing, like professional testing labs. Thanks for the comparison.
Acids are supposed to treat rust not prevent. Once they clean off the rust youre supposes to neutralize the acid with water and dry it with heat then treat cover clean metal with paint or a inhibitor.
The best one was home raised bees wax and you think he is promoting brands? The other brands were likely picked because they are commonly used and recommended by many knifemakers. Most of us DIYers likely have all those brands around the house or garage, they are all very common items.
Back in the day they used rapeseed oil on machines. I plan to coat the bottom of my cars with it. It should react with iron pretty much turning into a polymer. In theory. If I have to re-apply it every year no problem. Still the worst thing is paint and even the black stuff because it keeps water under the coat and everything rusts even more while looking protected.
Rapeseed (canola) oil doesn't just react to cold iron, you have to heat the iron past the smoke point of the oil. Its what people with cast iron pans do to 'season' them. For canola/rapeseed thats usually means a little over 400 degrees. You need to be careful bringing knives up to that temperature as that is into tempering temperature (depending on the type of steel) and will reduce the hardness.
@@Country_Jedi They could not heat up a machine or a car. Heat will speed things up but over time it will oxidize anyway. It's just sticky for a long time. There's a possibility that the original rape seed oil was better for that before it was genetically engineered to be less toxic for consumption. Not that it's healthy now but the fatty acids are a bit different
@@trollmcclure1884 you can always apply any oil to metal and it will help. But that doesn't mean polymerize. Polymerization happens with rapeseed oil and most oils at high temperature. It doesn't happen cold. It's chemistry.
@Country_Jedi Observation says it does happen even without a metal catalyst. Leave a bottle of oil open without a lid for couple of months and it will be sticky. Do more research.
Man you just kill 3in1oil for me! It'll be cool to make the same experiment with one metal plate without anything, just for comparison with the worst methods.
Lol u just wiped the sprays after applying them. Lmao. The wd 40 does a better job if u let it dry out itself. Don't wipe it out, as u r wiping out the left off oil.
THANK YOU!!! Out of the countless videos I’ve watched on individual products trying to decide, this video was all I needed!! Thank you!!!! 🙌🏼😁
You are so welcome!
A good video comparison. I hope to see more like this. I don't make knives, but this video can help anyone who uses metal tools. Keep the great vids coming
Thank you
Were all of them applied cold? I usually apply bees wax or paste wax while the work is still hot, when I use them.
Bees wax was applied hot others were warm
Thanks so much for this video,, I was searching for food safe blade rust prevention, and came across your video,, !! I was all set to order some beeswax, and your information has confirmed what I was thinking, !!
So, just subbed,,,
All the best from across the pond,, 😀
Thank you, glad I could help
Well a good test for immediate water repellent capability. For linseed oil and ting oil - they are drying oils that form a polymer. Once the polymer has formed the finish is better than paint. Beeswax wears off and has to be reapplied.
Very true but after extreme use even linseed oil needs to be reapplied
Still this is good information. It seems it would be best to apply linseed oil, let it harden and polymerize, and then after that apply beeswax as an extra water resistant coating on top of that. Just my two cents, I don't speak from years of experience, just a guess.
Linseed oil has been used for years by farmers to protect metal and wood. What's good about it is that it protects both of them and is very quick and easy to apply. It will leave a nice-looking patina if you wire brush the metal first. Also can be used on gun stocks.
Pretty stuff
Hey mister Geer, Can i using coconut oil for anti-rust on my katana was made by T10 steel ?🤔
yes
Incredibly helpful experiment! thanks a bunch for this.
Glad it was helpful!
Wonder how a sample that had been hot blued in linseed oil would have fared in this test. That's basically the same as seasoning a piece of cookware.
I will test it next time
What if you do combinations like beeswax and linseed oil?
I like the idea and will have to try it sometime
hi jacob! matthew from A Year from Now..., my g/f is an art conservator and has done experiments just like this. very cool!
awesome and glad you like it
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. I had a feeling beeswax would be the winner here. I've been using a homemade beeswax/oil blend on my cast iron which works great. After your video I feel safe using it on a tin lampshade outdoors(high humidity here in Northern Virginia). Thanks again!
thank you
Problem: you heated the metal first to prepare it for beeswax which may have formed a thin protective layer of oxidation that got sealed in by the wax. Could you repeat the experiment by heating every piece of metal before submerging it in the treatment?
I can do that next time
Heat or no heat, even if he just heated the wax instead of the metal the outcome would have more than likely the same, the wax melts around the metal making an (Semi)impermeable coating. Personally I'd stick with an oil, oils for sure more durable/heat resistant, wax could just chip/rub off after a couple uses? I dunno I don't work here. . .
@@Cam.j.c it probably won't make a difference like you said, but if you heat a piece of metal and put it in something cold (like oil or wax) it will effectively quench the metal which changes its hardness - could you then rightly call it the same metal? Same reason boiling room temperature water in glass is not the same as dropping glass at 212° into room temperature water. The rapid change in temperature and the lack of uniform change will cause the glass to explode. It probably didn't change the results of the experiment - but it could have. That's all I'm saying.
Considering that beeswax would be impossible to undercoat a truck, I'll use linseed oil. Great test.
Good choice
why dont mix it?
@@vortexor1 might work really good
It's not only possible but commercially available. It's used for the cavities but you can spray everything as long as you have a compressor and some spray gun. And rapeseed oil should work as well and it's cheaper
I use Remington gun oil for my non-food blades. For food safe blades I prefer walnut or beeswax.
Here in dry CO, just about anything will work. Never had so much as a rusty fingerprint on any blade.
I don’t know if linseed goes bad, but I’ll have to look into that now.
awesome thanks!!!
I've been using linseed for years on tools and knives but my uncle sells honey and beeswax so must get some wax off him and try it. Good video 👍
Thanks for this, I had some issues with linseed oil coating on some hinges so was looking for an alternative.
Happy to help
Enjoyed watching this, thanks for sending me the link.
Glad you enjoyed it! and your welcome
Can you do a video on heating the metal and dip them it in these oils. I think it will stick better
yes sir
Thanks for the video
Can i use beeswax for jewelry metals like hooks and jump rings
Yes you can
interesting feature of linseed (& tung) is that it's not just a barrier. it absorbs oxygen to polymerize, so it scavenges oxygen trapped next to the metal
awesome
It's a good idea and you were careful but try heating all of them before applying the coatings.
yes i should have done that
@@jaggedmountainknives If it gives better results then it might take longer for sufficient rust to show up to compare.
true, it is not a perfect experiment
Do you not recommend fish oil .?
I have never tried it
That's interesting, how did you apply the beeswax? Thanks for the info
Melted it on
Hope yall enjoy this vid!
yee yee
Would love to see how Lps2, Lps3 and Sta-bil rust stopper would've held up.in this group. Three GREAT options
next video I will test those
I think the Johnson wax may have been an application issue. A cooking oil like Canola and Vaseline would have been good to include in the test. Good job conducting the test in a manner to get a fair result.
thank you
A nice empirical experiment Sir. Could you just clarify please, was it Raw linseed oil or Boiled Linseed oil that you used here. Kind regards.
Boiled
Did the beeswax change the reflection, full the finish, or not let light in?
It changed it slightly but you could still see the steel clearly
What brand of bee's wax is that?
not a brand from my uncles bees
@@jaggedmountainknives Really? That's cool. How did you apply it on the metal? Did you just rub it or did you have to melt it first?
Good stuff guys. Subbed
Thanks man
How long did the linseed oil sit and dry before getting wet?
about 25 min
@@jaggedmountainknives could it be possible that you washed some of it off because it hadn't fully dried?
possible but im not sure
Yeah, I would be curious how oil finishes works when left down to cure (or at least dry) properly. I use pure baked tung oil as guitar finish and it takes apx 1 week to dry properly. I guess the spots on both linseed and tung oil pieces are from water washing down the finish before it dried...
I’m like the carnuba car wax for my knives and machetes, beeswax might be better but it’s gummy and messy at times.
true
hi mate, thx for the comparison. I am looking for a solution for my offset smoker BBQ. A lot of others use linseed oil but beeswax seems to be better solution. When I watch other videos they heat the oil either with flame torch or by firing up the BBQ very hot. This way it has a chemical reaction and becomes extra hard. Are you aware of this technique?
Yes it works the best! I just can't heat my knives up to apply it like that
@@jaggedmountainknives Why not if I may ask?
@Quinten Jacobs heat treatment, once a blade has been quenched if the steel temperature rises above 350 it becomes less hard and loses its temper
@@jaggedmountainknives Ah I get it. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Can you tell more about the science of heating vs non heating beewax coating?
@Quinten Jacobs I don't know all the science but I like to relate it to cast iron pans. When you cook with a cast iron and take care of it properly the oil slowly builds a resin like protection against rust and sticking. It's the same with heating up metal and applying beeswax it "cooks" the bees wax on to the surface of the metal instead of it just being like an oiled cast iron pan that hasn't been heated up.
Try it with 5160 I'm curious because I have a few kukris in that steel that will rust quite easily. Maybe dip the steel in linseed and tung oil like you did in the acid and just let it air dry. It may make a big difference. Keep up the good work.
I will do that next time
Thanks for providing this great video! I'd like to try using Bees Wax to protect metal, such as my table saw and wood planes from rusting. Can you please tell me if you purchased a "paste" bees wax or if you warmed it up to apply it to the metal? The only Bees Wax I'm familiar with comes in blocks.
I have used both and they both work well
Thank you so much for sharing this video, excellent.
Glad you enjoyed it!
i mean this test works great for static objects but with objects like tools it might be different because of the wear, so hypothetically speaking if the bees wax gets scraped of after slight use but lets say wd-40 stays on for months even with heavy use i would clasify wd-40 as 'better'" then beeswax because beeswax protects better but wd-40 protects longer, i would love to see this test done again but implement some kind of wear and tear part into the test, like ontop of spraying the parts with water every day you also rub them on the ground every day to simulate use
that is a great idea that i will definitely include the next time i do the test
@@jaggedmountainknives wow i didnt expect an answer, let alone so quickly and a positive one :D
you could also coat both sides but only do the wear and tear part of the test on one side so you could have a somewhat direct comparison between the difference the wear does to the coating
WD40 absolutely doesn't last well, it's basically just solvents and will wash off with a small amount of water. Something like linseed oil, however, will "cure" and polymerise and probably form a more durable coating than wax.
Nice simple video.
thank you
You should do again with axe wax, or some kind homemade stuff
I will use it the next time I do it
Thank you so much 👍
One of u guys from Myanmar?
no but I speak Burmese
Thank you so much for the video!
You are so welcome!
Nice. Thanks so much for this video 👍
No problem 👍
Looks like beeswax was the only one you pre heated no? They all should have been heated, no?
That may have helped, I applied them the way they were directed to be applied
Who knew the most natural of these products would be the best for rust prevention. All of these manufacturing plants selling snake oil, and polluting the environment on top of that, when we had the answer to rust prevention the entire time.
so true
Heat the metal and put on the linseed oil
Will do
The linseed oil, the steel needs to be heated to around 400F otherwise it will not convert the oil into polymers and the polymers won't bake on, that's what protects the steel, and the oil just runs off.
good to know
Most of these products need to have the metal preheated before application. So...
true
I know this is an old video, but Acid...why? Acid is used to REMOVE rust, not prevent it. A protective film (beeswax, etc.) should be applied after the acid = why the control was slightly less corroded. Use salt water spray to enhance the short-term duration testing, like professional testing labs. Thanks for the comparison.
Acids are supposed to treat rust not prevent. Once they clean off the rust youre supposes to neutralize the acid with water and dry it with heat then treat cover clean metal with paint or a inhibitor.
Totally correct
how did you get bee wax on it?
heated up the metal and melted it on
Look for methods from countries that uses salt on roads. Hot wax is great.
Thanks for the tip!
very informative
Glad you think so!
Awesome!!!
Thanks!!
you are awesome, thank you
Happy to help!
thank you.
Welcome!
The Original Bee's Wax
🐝 wax for the win!
OH YA also look at the views and the sub count
Nobody tests vegetable oil ? Hmmn. Seems to me all the youtubers are promoting brands, instead of making videos of what really workz
I will test it next time
The best one was home raised bees wax and you think he is promoting brands? The other brands were likely picked because they are commonly used and recommended by many knifemakers. Most of us DIYers likely have all those brands around the house or garage, they are all very common items.
I've used gun oil with great success. Nothing special, just pick it up at Walmart and apply with a rag.
Good to know
Back in the day they used rapeseed oil on machines. I plan to coat the bottom of my cars with it. It should react with iron pretty much turning into a polymer. In theory. If I have to re-apply it every year no problem. Still the worst thing is paint and even the black stuff because it keeps water under the coat and everything rusts even more while looking protected.
I will need to test it next time
Rapeseed (canola) oil doesn't just react to cold iron, you have to heat the iron past the smoke point of the oil. Its what people with cast iron pans do to 'season' them. For canola/rapeseed thats usually means a little over 400 degrees. You need to be careful bringing knives up to that temperature as that is into tempering temperature (depending on the type of steel) and will reduce the hardness.
@@Country_Jedi They could not heat up a machine or a car. Heat will speed things up but over time it will oxidize anyway. It's just sticky for a long time.
There's a possibility that the original rape seed oil was better for that before it was genetically engineered to be less toxic for consumption. Not that it's healthy now but the fatty acids are a bit different
@@trollmcclure1884 you can always apply any oil to metal and it will help. But that doesn't mean polymerize. Polymerization happens with rapeseed oil and most oils at high temperature. It doesn't happen cold. It's chemistry.
@Country_Jedi Observation says it does happen even without a metal catalyst. Leave a bottle of oil open without a lid for couple of months and it will be sticky. Do more research.
melt some bees wax into linseed oil
I like that idea
Muriatic acid = hydrochloric acid is one of the best agents to cause rust! NEVER use it on anything you want to prevent rust on!
good to know
Man you just kill 3in1oil for me!
It'll be cool to make the same experiment with one metal plate without anything, just for comparison with the worst methods.
ya it would be
I thought that control was the one without anything on it ?
Beeswax have won from preventing rust.
it sure has
Lol u just wiped the sprays after applying them. Lmao. The wd 40 does a better job if u let it dry out itself. Don't wipe it out, as u r wiping out the left off oil.
will do