I love watching these kind of experiments from you! With such a high resolutions these resin printers might work nicely for custom minifig utensils, weapons etc.!
As things are now, that would be enormously more expensive than buying real parts off bricklink most of the time. Resin is expensive, its only really worth using for rare or non-existent parts
@@Magmafrost13 $16 to $40 is expensive???? I've been practicing printing lego bricks for the sake of perfect fitment settings for my statues, and you can literally print about 30 bricks in an elegoo mars in 20 mins for about 20 cents of liquid.
Right...where to start. Your curing times are too long, most parts will be fully solid after a couple of minutes of exposure. Use a pen UV torch to cure inside hollow shapes. The ideal angle for printing geometric shapes is 25-45 degrees, you get to print some of the shapes flat on the bed, but you need to buy a flexible plate to easily detach them, and you need to compensate for the initial exposure to avoid 'elephant foot'. ABS-Like resin is best for durable parts. Never print below 70c, and ideally, sit the resin bottle in a warm water bowl to get it nice and warm before printing. When you have washed your parts put them in a warm bowl of water and use flush cutters to cleanly remove supports. Once cured, you can easily sand any bumps off. Avoid putting supports inside a model if at all possible. Oh, and white resin tends to yellow, so I'd print with grey or some other colour unless you must have white parts. That's enough for now.
Thanks for taking the time to respond. I usually cure the parts for 3 minutes, I think that totally fits in the "couple of minutes" timeframe. I heated the room to 25 degrees Celsius (compared to the previous 18-20), but didn't really notice any difference regarding the issues I showed for the prints. The warm water method for the support did work for some parts, but still didn't change the lack of flat surfaces and accurate edges which is the most annoying challenge I couldn't really solve. I would be fine with the contact points of support as a little sanding can totally solve it, but those melted-looking edges and bumpy surfaces shouldn't be there.
@@RacingBrickNoob here. I’ve found you just don’t print with any flat surfaces parallel to the build plate. If printing a cube, stand it on an edge, not a side. Now no surfaces will have the issue. The issue is that light doesn’t stop pushing up through the resin at exactly the layer height. So a flat layer parallel to the build plate is going to be warped.
@@legonut78 if you check the video from 7:10, you will see that I printed a lot of things at an angle, and it was still problematic. I have another video with another printer that was more succesfull, I think due to the heated vat. In fact, the rims I printed with that were parallel to the build plate, and they still came out better than the rotated ones.
The video tells the truth, it doesn't matter whether the printing is sponsored. I had the same experience when I first used an SLA printer. Products from SLA printers look great, but they are very difficult to operate and deal with the settings.
This is an excellent video, well done - so concise, and showed exactly what needs to be shown. I’m new to resin printing but so far, I’ve been impressed by how much LESS support is required than with FDM printing. A brick with studs can be printed on its side, and the studs come out almost perfectly round. I’ve printed most of my test items (similar to your I-beam) without supports at all, with a side flat on the build plate. I was getting ‘elephant’s foot’, but to solve that, I’ve reduced first layer exposure time (applies to each of the first five layers) from the default 35 seconds to 12 seconds, and I’ve increased the initial Z height by 0.1mm. Other layers are exposed 2.8 seconds just like yours. I’ve tried using supports and ran into the same distortions on flat faces that you found. I really don’t think supports are desirable but I will watch that other video. Time will tell, I guess, as I print more items. Thank you again for such an interesting video.
Hmmm. As you said, there is always a side that is ‘distorted’ when finalising a resin 3d print… maybe (would vary on the specific peice) try printing on an angle that the ‘distorted side’ is on a side of the peice that is easily repairable as such🤔. I would really love to use a resin printer to make bulk lots of wheels for semi trailers that require many wheels or flat panels.
Maybe another content idea. 3d printing custom tracks and custom sprockets. I haven’t done much research on resin types but if there is such thing as flexible resin. That would be useful for custom tires as the FDM left layer marks etc. amazing videos. Thanks for the experience
Wow, that's interesting. I was considering getting a resin printer, but I went with a fdm printer because it was less toxic to have in my room. I was a bit sad because I knew (well at least I thought I did until now😂) that they were more accurat, but it turns out that they aren't great for printing lego 😕. Great video and really educational, let's hope you find a solution to this problem. Good luck 👍.
I can give you some hints on custom support structures, object orientation. Also know a guy intenational superman in printing, who can help you out with printer settings, and much more capable types of resins.... 😉
Is your printer/resin curing perfectly hard/solid? I printed multiple test prints with technic pin sockets and always the pin is able to scratch through the top layer showing some white residue on the inside. Even with elegoo abs-like resin and I couldn't get any reasonable help from community apart from recommendation of that resin...
Yep, as the title says :) Resin might give you the required level of detail, but as you can see in the video I had problems with dimensional accuracy. Might be resolved with another printer or different slicing techniques though.
very nice. I used the same technology to create special components and custom models, I made a video where you can see an entire 3D printed model. compared to fdm printing this is much better.
Be careful with the metal scrapers I’ve seen a lot of people who have stabbed themselves with it when a print gets stuck
That happens to me all of the time lol. I also keep cutting myself on supports.
Yep, that's something to really pay attention to, I always try to do very small movements with the scraper
I love watching these kind of experiments from you! With such a high resolutions these resin printers might work nicely for custom minifig utensils, weapons etc.!
Imagine creating all the pieces you need for MOC’s. That would be insane
As things are now, that would be enormously more expensive than buying real parts off bricklink most of the time. Resin is expensive, its only really worth using for rare or non-existent parts
@@Magmafrost13 $16 to $40 is expensive???? I've been practicing printing lego bricks for the sake of perfect fitment settings for my statues, and you can literally print about 30 bricks in an elegoo mars in 20 mins for about 20 cents of liquid.
I loved it when he smiled in the reflection of the curing turntable
Right...where to start. Your curing times are too long, most parts will be fully solid after a couple of minutes of exposure. Use a pen UV torch to cure inside hollow shapes. The ideal angle for printing geometric shapes is 25-45 degrees, you get to print some of the shapes flat on the bed, but you need to buy a flexible plate to easily detach them, and you need to compensate for the initial exposure to avoid 'elephant foot'. ABS-Like resin is best for durable parts. Never print below 70c, and ideally, sit the resin bottle in a warm water bowl to get it nice and warm before printing. When you have washed your parts put them in a warm bowl of water and use flush cutters to cleanly remove supports. Once cured, you can easily sand any bumps off. Avoid putting supports inside a model if at all possible. Oh, and white resin tends to yellow, so I'd print with grey or some other colour unless you must have white parts. That's enough for now.
Thanks for taking the time to respond. I usually cure the parts for 3 minutes, I think that totally fits in the "couple of minutes" timeframe. I heated the room to 25 degrees Celsius (compared to the previous 18-20), but didn't really notice any difference regarding the issues I showed for the prints. The warm water method for the support did work for some parts, but still didn't change the lack of flat surfaces and accurate edges which is the most annoying challenge I couldn't really solve. I would be fine with the contact points of support as a little sanding can totally solve it, but those melted-looking edges and bumpy surfaces shouldn't be there.
@@RacingBrickNoob here. I’ve found you just don’t print with any flat surfaces parallel to the build plate. If printing a cube, stand it on an edge, not a side. Now no surfaces will have the issue.
The issue is that light doesn’t stop pushing up through the resin at exactly the layer height. So a flat layer parallel to the build plate is going to be warped.
@@legonut78 if you check the video from 7:10, you will see that I printed a lot of things at an angle, and it was still problematic. I have another video with another printer that was more succesfull, I think due to the heated vat. In fact, the rims I printed with that were parallel to the build plate, and they still came out better than the rotated ones.
Love those experiment videos
The video tells the truth, it doesn't matter whether the printing is sponsored. I had the same experience when I first used an SLA printer. Products from SLA printers look great, but they are very difficult to operate and deal with the settings.
Amazing video, I must say B I've been a little late to these printer videos. Very interesting 👌
This is an excellent video, well done - so concise, and showed exactly what needs to be shown.
I’m new to resin printing but so far, I’ve been impressed by how much LESS support is required than with FDM printing. A brick with studs can be printed on its side, and the studs come out almost perfectly round. I’ve printed most of my test items (similar to your I-beam) without supports at all, with a side flat on the build plate. I was getting ‘elephant’s foot’, but to solve that, I’ve reduced first layer exposure time (applies to each of the first five layers) from the default 35 seconds to 12 seconds, and I’ve increased the initial Z height by 0.1mm. Other layers are exposed 2.8 seconds just like yours.
I’ve tried using supports and ran into the same distortions on flat faces that you found. I really don’t think supports are desirable but I will watch that other video. Time will tell, I guess, as I print more items.
Thank you again for such an interesting video.
These are so disticinive w o w i never seen some of these before.
Hmmm. As you said, there is always a side that is ‘distorted’ when finalising a resin 3d print… maybe (would vary on the specific peice) try printing on an angle that the ‘distorted side’ is on a side of the peice that is easily repairable as such🤔. I would really love to use a resin printer to make bulk lots of wheels for semi trailers that require many wheels or flat panels.
Maybe another content idea. 3d printing custom tracks and custom sprockets. I haven’t done much research on resin types but if there is such thing as flexible resin. That would be useful for custom tires as the FDM left layer marks etc. amazing videos. Thanks for the experience
Looks good !
I actually have some resin printed parts they work very well compared to normal 3D printing
Can I ask what resin you used?
Great video my Friend
3:31 me when new lego speed champions releases
Wow, that's interesting. I was considering getting a resin printer, but I went with a fdm printer because it was less toxic to have in my room. I was a bit sad because I knew (well at least I thought I did until now😂) that they were more accurat, but it turns out that they aren't great for printing lego 😕. Great video and really educational, let's hope you find a solution to this problem. Good luck 👍.
I can give you some hints on custom support structures, object orientation. Also know a guy intenational superman in printing, who can help you out with printer settings, and much more capable types of resins.... 😉
I am totally open to suggestions :)
Is your printer/resin curing perfectly hard/solid? I printed multiple test prints with technic pin sockets and always the pin is able to scratch through the top layer showing some white residue on the inside. Even with elegoo abs-like resin and I couldn't get any reasonable help from community apart from recommendation of that resin...
I found no issue with curing, my biggest problem was the lack of smooth / proper surfaces on the support side that I couldn't resolve
Can you please make a rc mod for Mclaren senna gtr with power functions or powered up
Out of sheer curiosity, do you have to send back the 3d printer product back after they send it? Or do you just keep it?
Depends on the company, but in most cases you can keep the product
Humidity: a quantity representing the amount of water vapor in the atmosphere or in a gas.
*a ratio
Forgive my ignorance: this is resin 3d printing, right? I am only trying to find out what material is best for 3d LEGO printing.
Yep, as the title says :) Resin might give you the required level of detail, but as you can see in the video I had problems with dimensional accuracy. Might be resolved with another printer or different slicing techniques though.
very nice. I used the same technology to create special components and custom models, I made a video where you can see an entire 3D printed model.
compared to fdm printing this is much better.
How did you download the files from shapeways? I’m not seeing that option on my end
wow
I've got a Creality 3D printer, I was an early supporter on one of the filament printers, Its great! (just the user thats the issue 😂)
this video isnt added to the playlist
Thanks, added it!
👍
❤❤❤
How much and were u get thzt equipment
You can find the links in the description
tbh i don't think LEGO is gonna release the 42146 maybe they're gonna release it in 2024
I enjoy that 42146 is becoming an in-joke here
Patience you must have, my young Padawan
first fr
first
44 seconds old wow