I remember the main video series this came from. The whole thing is part of several projects on this and a few other channels that have really motivated me to get back into Making and Hacking. The finished clock is freaking gorgeous, and the shop is small enough that I can build something like it on a trailer. Chris definitely has given me some good inspiration.
Eh. I still do this, even with SMDs... Or, at least I used to. SMD is a bit fiddly for my taste. Though, I do look to be getting back into electronics again.
Me, too, though after working with Ferric Chloride for a while I switched to Ammonium Persulfate. Much less stainy :) Letraset dry transfers and a resist pen. Those were the days :)
It's dezincification of the brass. What's actually happening is the zinc dissolves first, leaving a porous layer of copper behind. A common problem for brass parts in chloride solutions, e.g. seawater. You can get dezincification resistant (DZR) brass, it has a small amount of arsenic added to the alloy.
Bellissimi lavori! Come agente corrosivo puoi anche usare, in bagni differenti, acqua ossigenata a 130volumi per ossidare e acido cloridrico concentrato per corrodere la parte ossidata. Intervallando con risciacqui con acqua corrente.
Hi dear Friend What is the temperature of the water you add to your sodium carbonate please ? I need to wait for a very long time to develop but i use it at ambiant temperature Thanks Olivier from France
In the event it has to be done vent that the finished dial is not up to your standards can the dial be salvaged or a new piece of brass and start over? Or flip it over and etch the other side?
If you want the very detailed narrative go to the video link in the description, Chris has purposely changed the sound track to music for this "clips" channel
Be very careful with Ferric Chloride. My Dad was a circuit board builder in the 1980's and he had major problems with my otherwise easy-going Mother concerning 'degradation' of the so-called stainless steel kitchen sink. This stuff is relentless in its staining capabilities. Just a heads up.....
That's the original additive notation that the Romans used (IIII VIIII and so on). The subtractive notation (IV and IX) was a later notation developed by the Germans.
I remember the main video series this came from. The whole thing is part of several projects on this and a few other channels that have really motivated me to get back into Making and Hacking. The finished clock is freaking gorgeous, and the shop is small enough that I can build something like it on a trailer. Chris definitely has given me some good inspiration.
Your silent instructional videos are so well made and informative! Thank you.
A master talent at work. Incredible craftsmanhip.
Reminds me of the days before surface mount electronics when I'd make circuit boards at home.
Eh. I still do this, even with SMDs... Or, at least I used to. SMD is a bit fiddly for my taste. Though, I do look to be getting back into electronics again.
I prefer SMD parts when I make my own boards; fewer holes to drill.
Me, too, though after working with Ferric Chloride for a while I switched to Ammonium Persulfate. Much less stainy :) Letraset dry transfers and a resist pen. Those were the days :)
Smiled when the iPhone timer from ancient times appeared :)
You have a way of making nerve-wracking things chill, and it never disappoints.
Can’t wait for the next video of A. Mechanism series!! Thank you for sharing your awesome content!!
Nice job. Looks beautiful.
You never cease to amaze me!
Masterwork level of craftsmanship! When can we expect the next video about Antikythera mechanism?
I love that it also alters the chemistry of the parts it does affect and bribs more of the copper to the surface so that the color changes.
It's dezincification of the brass. What's actually happening is the zinc dissolves first, leaving a porous layer of copper behind. A common problem for brass parts in chloride solutions, e.g. seawater.
You can get dezincification resistant (DZR) brass, it has a small amount of arsenic added to the alloy.
Same way i do circuit boards . Except i use a thermal printer transfer method a lot less steps . Never thought of doing it on brass
Fascinating!
Oh to be able to just push around a broom in your shop.
To judge by his shop tour video you could pretty much do it standing still.
@@mpetersen6 :D
Gorgeous !!
Brilliant
Bellissimi lavori! Come agente corrosivo puoi anche usare, in bagni differenti, acqua ossigenata a 130volumi per ossidare e acido cloridrico concentrato per corrodere la parte ossidata.
Intervallando con risciacqui con acqua corrente.
Lovely.
For beter application of the film, you can spray water on the brass plate befor application the film
Looks awesome.
wish i could get my pcbs this good
I have a large bottle of Ferric Chloride powder I have not used in ages.
Thanks for the video, helps a lot!
So cool. I would *definitely* screw this up in at least ten ways!
Bravo !!!
What is the chemical used to take a print on it To print a photo on it first put a sticker on it What is the chemical in it
Cool!
Hi dear Friend
What is the temperature of the water you add to your sodium carbonate please ?
I need to wait for a very long time to develop but i use it at ambiant temperature
Thanks
Olivier from France
Spent a good part of my teaching career, teaching electronics and using ferric chloride to etch circuits; I hate the stuff.
I wish you lived in Nebraska, USA
Sir ji jo blu film roll hai uska kya name hai.
In the event it has to be done vent that the finished dial is not up to your standards can the dial be salvaged or a new piece of brass and start over? Or flip it over and etch the other side?
Phenomenal
That phone has to be at least a decade old, how does the battery still hold a charge?
preview of iphone 20, they're going full retro :)
I still have an iphone 3gs that I use as an ipod. it have better battery than the iphone 5 I owned a few years ago 😅
Man that’s a cool retro phone you got there! How is that thing still alive?!
What is the name of the material used to transfer the design to metal?
What was that black sticker? Is it regular sticker?
An iphone 3G?! Hot damn, that's pretty ancient now
Just thinking closed captions like Primitive Technology does on his videos would be good for these silent Clickspring videos.
👍❤
Refer to link in description for source video for more details - Cheers :)
Oh I know. It was just an idea. 😊
Why is 4 represented as “IIII” not IV…I saw this on another clock once and thought it was a goof up
Chris why IIII why not IV??
Excellent video as usual. A bit of verbal explanation per process on this one would be nice.
If you want the very detailed narrative go to the video link in the description, Chris has purposely changed the sound track to music for this "clips" channel
what is the last liquid you apply is it water or what?
would be cool to plate the etched parts with silver or something
Before you remove the etch mask you could try electroplating if you want another metal in those etched details.
Click on the link in the description; he uses a method called 'Silvering'' to coat it in a layer of silver :) Cheers
Citric acid works as well as vinegar to clean copper, and doesn't smell.
It also taste better IMHO :)
Vinegar works better on salads though.
Be very careful with Ferric Chloride. My Dad was a circuit board builder in the 1980's and he had major problems with my otherwise easy-going Mother concerning 'degradation' of the so-called stainless steel kitchen sink. This stuff is relentless in its staining capabilities. Just a heads up.....
I'm curious what washing with water does *after* cleaning with Acetone.
Given the acetone was to get rid of resist, probably to prevent damage to the resist you want to keep by washing off any remaining acetone.
What is the reason for using IIII instead of IV? It always bugged me as a child and I still don't know the answer.
That's the original additive notation that the Romans used (IIII VIIII and so on). The subtractive notation (IV and IX) was a later notation developed by the Germans.
There’s also the aesthetics of how IIII more neatly balances visually against VIII than IV would.
what kind of foil is that?
photoresist dry film
Photosensitive Dry Film
Riston is one brand (though there are several types).
3.32........
Hello , what varnish are good with mirror finish brass ( keeping from darkening and oxidation in general)
A general PU coating works ok, I have used this: www.bunnings.com.au/white-knight-500ml-rust-guard-clear-quick-dry-topcoat-paint_p1564192 - Cheers :)
@@ClickspringClips thank you for our answer , help me a lot
have to see if I find this in Europe
Daniel