Dear John Ive been a long time subscriber of your channel and i have enjoyed every video I had an accident at work in September 23rd 2016, my previous job was in construction. In my recovery time and not knowing what to do with life in general i stumbled apron your channel I was inspired to take a new direction with my future career so i studied at my local trade college to take up welding. Fast forward one year and im now a qualified welder and working for Bisley, the money is good and a lot warmer than construction. I owe my career and my future to you and your channel and to you personally. If this message is mentioned in a sunday night cap or a standalone video i hope it will provide inspiration to others to take up the trade. Thankyou so very much Kindest Regards Thomas Williams
Dear Thomas, I like your letter writing comment style. I think you have done remarkably well to make a career U-turn. That is a big decision and takes a lot of commitment and bravery. I too have been thinking about welding and have the feeling it would suit me very well. Could you let me know what course you took? I may follow in your footsteps, so I may be thanking you and John sometime in the future. Regards Martin.
@@martinda7446 Dear Martin Thankyou for the reply its greatly appreciated The course i took is in the UK, the course name is - EAL NVQ Certificate in Fabrication and Welding Level 1 Its a part time course which is nice, it allows you to work as well as study I completed the course and never looked back, thanks to john in all honesty kind regards and all the best Thomas
That bottom plug hole is used by Theoben to gain access to the top part of the block in order to make an air port. It normally is finished with a doughty washer and substantial well threaded sealing plug sealing on the bottom land of the block, and not the bottom of the hole itself. Not wanting to doubt the fix, but in real terms that helicoil arrangement has to possibly sustain up to 230bar pressure. I think perhaps you can see where I'm going with this ...
Back when I had to helicoil an ally car engine - or three - the genuine helicoil kit insertion tool required one to screw the insert into the tool and then screw it out of the tool and into the repair hole simultaneously, so that the coil was guided. That was back in about 1990. Looks like the cool tools are cheaper now.
7:03 I love your videos and all but I learned that it's not very good practice to use an end mill in a drill chuck because they generate force that can pull the chuck off of it's arbor and the runout of a chuck can grately reduce the life of your end mill. Just thought I'd let you know before you loose a pretty end mill or have the chuck fall on the floor. Keep up the great videos though John!
I used to repair threads in the JT3 engines (707 aircraft) in the engine shop many years ago they are hateful things John, but I do like the Wurth Time sert inserts solid steel jacket found them to be heaps better and a more longer time of service both ways are approved aviation repairs
I thought the tab on the coil should be in the bottom so when screwing it in it has the effect of pulling the diameter in and allows easy inset. Where having the tab on the top causes the coil to expand as your driving it in. Hence the trouble.
i always put a chamfer on top of the hole that way the insert starts better, when i did the same thing to my rapid plenty of locktite did'nt want that 200 bar pushing it out when i was holding it
John helicoil brand thread insert tool has the thread size in atube and the spin rod is the inside dia. Of thread with notch to drive the coil it keeps it square with the hole . Winding it in till flush. The tool your using is crooked and cocking the coil in the new thread. The stop may help on tool to keep square but doubtful.
I've had similar grief when helicoiling small threads - regardless of the position of the collar. I do wonder whether a better quality tool would do the trick. In the end I made up my own threaded inserts.
That is not a factory threaded hole that is being repaired. On the Rapid 7 block there are only two threaded holes in that location on the bottom of the block, a 1/4” BSP access plug and also a 1/4” UNF 28tpi trigger guard/stock fixing point .
John,as you say,the fine helicoils can be a sod to get in square and seated right. Have you ever used or heard of Timesert Thread Repair Inserts? They are as compact as a helicoil but the way they are formed means they are a true cylindrical insert with matching pitch threads inside and out. I've fitted many of them and they do produce a lot more reliable repair,especially on awkward or tricky fine threads.
Tom's techniques shows how to convert a drill like your 9.9mm helicoil drill, to a flat bottom drill. Just gtind it flat on a belt sander and then add two relief's.
Instead of a 10mm milling cutter, maybe you could have used an 8mm and then opened the hole to the recommended diameter. The washer was probably 8mm anyhow.. I was thinking maybe the bigger hole added to the pain in the arse threading of the helicoil?
You need the real Helicoil brand that has a full thread installation tool not those crap imitation sets that don't have a proper installation tool. Make an installation tool from the correct thread so it can't jump thread.
Dear John
Ive been a long time subscriber of your channel and i have enjoyed every video
I had an accident at work in September 23rd 2016, my previous job was in construction.
In my recovery time and not knowing what to do with life in general i stumbled apron your channel
I was inspired to take a new direction with my future career so i studied at my local trade college to take up welding.
Fast forward one year and im now a qualified welder and working for Bisley, the money is good and a lot warmer than construction.
I owe my career and my future to you and your channel and to you personally. If this message is mentioned in a sunday night cap or a standalone video i hope it will provide inspiration to others to take up the trade.
Thankyou so very much
Kindest Regards
Thomas Williams
Dear Thomas,
I like your letter writing comment style.
I think you have done remarkably well to make a career U-turn. That is a big decision and takes a lot of commitment and bravery.
I too have been thinking about welding and have the feeling it would suit me very well. Could you let me know what course you took? I may follow in your footsteps, so I may be thanking you and John sometime in the future.
Regards Martin.
@@martinda7446
Dear Martin
Thankyou for the reply its greatly appreciated
The course i took is in the UK, the course name is - EAL NVQ Certificate in Fabrication and Welding Level 1
Its a part time course which is nice, it allows you to work as well as study
I completed the course and never looked back, thanks to john in all honesty
kind regards and all the best
Thomas
That bottom plug hole is used by Theoben to gain access to the top part of the block in order to make an air port. It normally is finished with a doughty washer and substantial well threaded sealing plug sealing on the bottom land of the block, and not the bottom of the hole itself. Not wanting to doubt the fix, but in real terms that helicoil arrangement has to possibly sustain up to 230bar pressure. I think perhaps you can see where I'm going with this ...
Thankyou for the shout out john. Made my year that did, You have been and will continue to be my and many others rolemodel.
Sorry John, forgot to say how much I always enjoy your videos. Keep up the cussing 👍😊
Thank you John. Great video. Great repair. Plasma cutter working great. Thank you for sharing.
Nice work. I seem to remember the last time I did helicoiling using a tool that was almost the size of the hole, but I might be wrong.
Back when I had to helicoil an ally car engine - or three - the genuine helicoil kit insertion tool required one to screw the insert into the tool and then screw it out of the tool and into the repair hole simultaneously, so that the coil was guided. That was back in about 1990. Looks like the cool tools are cheaper now.
I was just going to send the same message to John. You can’t beat the genuine Helicoil tools. These Chinese sets are crap.
Glad you didn't turn the camera off, the gun may not have survived. I was afraid you were going to run out of inserts. See you in part 2.
That was a good repair, and I hear you about how fine thread heli coils can be aggravating. Interesting how they work too, I've never used a Rapid.
7:03 I love your videos and all but I learned that it's not very good practice to use an end mill in a drill chuck because they generate force that can pull the chuck off of it's arbor and the runout of a chuck can grately reduce the life of your end mill. Just thought I'd let you know before you loose a pretty end mill or have the chuck fall on the floor. Keep up the great videos though John!
Isn’t the collar on the insert tool supposed to be pushed right down onto the end of the insert. This then pushes the insert in square to the hole.
In theory yes But you just do the best you can with fine threads
I used to repair threads in the JT3 engines (707 aircraft) in the engine shop many years ago they are hateful things John, but I do like the Wurth Time sert inserts solid steel jacket found them to be heaps better and a more longer time of service both ways are approved aviation repairs
A bit of a struggle but you fixed it nicely. :-)
I thought the tab on the coil should be in the bottom so when screwing it in it has the effect of pulling the diameter in and allows easy inset. Where having the tab on the top causes the coil to expand as your driving it in. Hence the trouble.
The tab was at the bottom of the insert fine threads are just a pain it is a cheap kit as well
Interesting job on the rifle. The Helicoil was in a playful mood. Best wishes, Dean in Oxfordshire.
i always put a chamfer on top of the hole that way the insert starts better, when i did the same thing to my rapid plenty of locktite did'nt want that 200 bar pushing it out when i was holding it
John helicoil brand thread insert tool has the thread size in atube and the spin rod is the inside dia. Of thread with notch to drive the coil it keeps it square with the hole . Winding it in till flush. The tool your using is crooked and cocking the coil in the new thread. The stop may help on tool to keep square but doubtful.
Nicely done and well persevered. See you in part 2.
I've had similar grief when helicoiling small threads - regardless of the position of the collar. I do wonder whether a better quality tool would do the trick. In the end I made up my own threaded inserts.
That should have had an insert right from the factory, especially with fine threads in aluminum.
Agree with you. It is very poor practice for that not to have an inserted thread liner.👍
That is not a factory threaded hole that is being repaired. On the Rapid 7 block there are only two threaded holes in that location on the bottom of the block, a 1/4” BSP access plug and also a 1/4” UNF 28tpi trigger guard/stock fixing point .
I've used helicoils on larger threads to no excessive irritation, but those little fine thread ones look like a bastard of a job!
You might have been better off with a solid thread insert, such as the TIME-SERT ones.
I could only find 1/8 27 tpi taper not 28 tpi parallel inserts
Nice job John,I try to use Wurth Timeserts when possible they are a bit of a mess on but usually do a nice job.keep the vids coming.Thanks
I could not find a 28 tpi insert
John,as you say,the fine helicoils can be a sod to get in square and seated right. Have you ever used or heard of Timesert Thread Repair Inserts? They are as compact as a helicoil but the way they are formed means they are a true cylindrical insert with matching pitch threads inside and out. I've fitted many of them and they do produce a lot more reliable repair,especially on awkward or tricky fine threads.
I also use them not available in that thread
@@doubleboost In that case it is Hobson's choice. Helicoil it is👍
Hey John. Happy Father's Day from USA!!
Tom's techniques shows how to convert a drill like your 9.9mm helicoil drill, to a flat bottom drill. Just gtind it flat on a belt sander and then add two relief's.
Try moving the collar down on the insert tool to keep the insert compressed while fitting
watching you use a thread insert was painful, try reading the instructions John. Thanks for sharing your work Dave
Have you ever tried to install cheap fine thread insert
Happy Fathers Day John
I would support Doucleboost but prefer Doubleboost if I'm honest.
You are the first to mention that
Is there anything you won’t work on? Talented man
Looks like someone made a bodge of fitting the gauge and quickfill. Not standard on the R7.
Thanks John
I have a rapid 7 and it needs news rings it’s leaking air when I put the bottle on. Do you do work for other peoples rapid 7.
The air rifle repair was just a one off . They are very specialised . Thanks for watching
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the video, swearing and all.
I'd probably have said screw this and TIG'd it up, lol!
Some nice macro shots here John!
Instead of a 10mm milling cutter, maybe you could have used an 8mm and then opened the hole to the recommended diameter. The washer was probably 8mm anyhow.. I was thinking maybe the bigger hole added to the pain in the arse threading of the helicoil?
The recommended hole size is 9.9 mill they supply a drill but i wanted a flat bottomed hole
@@doubleboost yes, I meant an 8mm flat hole..But I'm sure that 0.1mm makes no difference, surely?
@@martinda7446 I needed full depth of hole to 10 mill that is why i used a milling cutter . I could not have gone any deeper
yeh give it a go whilst playing with 200 bar
👍
I don't see a good job on this, you were able to open at 12mm and make a 10mm stainless steel bushing and voila and work like a charm
that does have to hold back 220bar of air pressure
The repair will be stronger than the original
@@doubleboost sweet
The hole is after the regulator, so should be about 100 bar
Standard aviation industry practice is to helicoil threads in alloy.
@@pacerpj it's before so it takes full pressure ,when the bottle is fitted it reads 150 bar
You need the real Helicoil brand that has a full thread installation tool not those crap imitation sets that don't have a proper installation tool. Make an installation tool from the correct thread so it can't jump thread.
I agree but the chance of using 1/8 BSP again is very remote . The real "Helicoil" kits were much better