HI, thanks for watching... You know I honestly don't remember if there was enough room to get the screws out with the clutch basket on the bike? My gut says no, BUT I could be wrong?Rocky mountain did a nice video where they used lock tite on the NSU screws on their project DR650 bike. I personally like the idea of safety wired screws. But I do come from a Aviation background where safety wire was used on anything you did not want to loose. I lucked out because a local guy on CL had a new unopened Procycle kit for 25 bucks. I do remember my screws were in very tight, but you never know?
Yes your probably right, it is 36ft-lbs of torque. But it is close enough. I remember the old Suzuki RM465, and RM500's that I use to restored, all came from the factory with the clutch hub nut finger tight with the tab bent over? Crazy!
Hey, I wonder if you can help me? I got the clutch cover back on but don't think I engaged the pushrod and actuator correctly because there is no tension on the clutch lever. Do you have any advice! How did you get it back on and engaged?
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I read on justdr650.com that you could remove the NSU screws and loctite them without removing the clutch basket...you think that is possible?
HI, thanks for watching... You know I honestly don't remember if there was enough room to get the screws out with the clutch basket on the bike? My gut says no, BUT I could be wrong?Rocky mountain did a nice video where they used lock tite on the NSU screws on their project DR650 bike. I personally like the idea of safety wired screws. But I do come from a Aviation background where safety wire was used on anything you did not want to loose. I lucked out because a local guy on CL had a new unopened Procycle kit for 25 bucks. I do remember my screws were in very tight, but you never know?
Update to you question.. I just looked at my video again to refresh my memory and NO you cannot get the screws out unless the clutch assy. is removed.
No
There's another video where a guy shows you how to do it without removing the clutch:
ua-cam.com/video/P8Iyg_TOEoc/v-deo.htmlsi=3wYnGOrCWHqoYbfr
Better to torque the nut to the right spec, should be a lot of torque.
Yes your probably right, it is 36ft-lbs of torque.
But it is close enough. I remember the old Suzuki RM465, and RM500's that I use to restored, all came from the factory with the clutch hub nut finger tight with the tab bent over? Crazy!
Only 7lbs on those M6 Clutch Pressure Plate Bolts!!!
I'm sure I was close? Thanks for the tip.
Hey, I wonder if you can help me? I got the clutch cover back on but don't think I engaged the pushrod and actuator correctly because there is no tension on the clutch lever. Do you have any advice! How did you get it back on and engaged?