Thank you! I wish I would of done a step by step video but for some reason I didn't. There is a few things I'd like to go into more detail about. Thanks for watching!
I have a 9N I’m just messing with. I put new distrib, wires and plugs....New gas tank, carb kit, starter bendix......just trying to get it running right for now......I would love to have the knowledge you have on tractors. You did a great job and good video as well.....God bless
Why thank you!! I wish you the best with your 9N. I'm not sure if you have seen my other videos on my channel about the 9N/2N's I'm sure you'll find them helpful if you ever need to do anything.
Awesome good luck!! I have way better detailed videos on repairs of the N series tractors on my channel. Unfortunately I didn't do a step by step video on this repair.
@@Jason1Pa I have mine down to just the trans and rear axle housing now. I have the hydraulics out of it but I want to pull the axle housings next and the rear diff like you did to clean everything. How hard is it to get the diff out? do you have to worry about preload on the diff itself when putting it back together? I also want to take apart the trans to clean it really good so I will look for a video on that.
@jjay718 The diff pulls right out once you take the left axle housing off. As far as bearing preload no there is no adjustment for the differential BUT buy the proper gaskets so you have the right thickness. A lot of people just use gasket maker. When that housing is bolted down all of it will squeeze out leaving no gap like the gasket does. In my opinion that's too tight on the bearings
Wow….. I just watched this again not know that I watched and committed as well…… I still agree with the first comment I made… ! I also live and work in PA as well ….. in the Greencastle area.
Your about 2 hours from me. I'm Southeast about 40 miles from Pittsburgh. Near Exit #75 off the Pa. Turnpike. I frequent a tractor show in McConnellsburg from time to time. I've taken a couple tractors out to be in their big parade
I replaced the rear axle and hub on my '49. The shim preload as you call it, kind of went over my head. I just added shims till the rear wheels rotated in opposite directions. If I had your knowledge, I'd have been more scientific about it. Great video. Thanks
Well the way you did it is right however sometimes depending on the tractor the opposite rotation way may not happen until your a little too much on the loose side. It's better having them loose (with in reason) then too tight. I like the dial indicator simply because it takes the guess work out. I know exactly how much space is in between the axle shafts. I can sleep at night knowing they are perfect. Not too tight not too loose. Thanks for watching!!
Great slide show! I wondered about the thinner seals working with the original retainer locations. It would seem like that could be an issue. I probably am missing something/
Buy the way thanks for responding .You are one of the few opinions I’m interested in.I am currently working on an 8n with a noise I can’t quite nail down ,sounds like it’s coming from the rear part of transmission or hyd.pump a whining noise
Does the noise happen when the PTO is disingaged or only when it's engaged? When in neutral and tractor running does it make a difference if the clutch is pushed in or out?
Been hoping you would do some more tractor vids. Really liked the one on the engine rebuild. Question: how do you manage to get 450 ft lbs of torque? I have never dealt with that much. Thanks
Jim Buford I apologize for the late reply. Basically to get that kind of torque you need a 3 foot pipe slipped over a breaker bar and put all your weight on it...
okay thanks I will do so where is my exhaust valve chamber located in this tractor and it is stuck what should I do to repair it clean it out or replace it???
how are you doing sir loved your video, i also have a 8n 1949 tractor and was wondering if the rear-end transmission and hydraulics uses the same fluid or is it 3 different fill plugs
That was very helpful, it shed a lot of light on an issue I have with mine. The one wheel has some wiggle to it. It appears someone has been in there and I'm assuming based on what you showed that either its not shimmed properly or the hub is worn. Or both, lol.
31 Ford That is very possible however if you rock them back and forth and still hear a noise and you know its shimmed properly and new hubs your hearing the movement in the axle where it slides into the differential. Nothing you can do about that and won't hurt nothing.
I will be looking into it at some point, rite now its not leaking or anything. However, I do have a hydraulic issue that I will be addressing pretty soon as it is a real pain to operate the way it is. As soon as you step on the clutch the implement starts to drop and relatively quick
cheewurz As far as a step by step video No. What you see in this slide show is all it really needed. Just a good cleaning and seal replacment. The engine runs pretty good but there are a lot of seals and gaskets that need replaced. When I get around to that I'll more then likely rebuild the engine from top to bottom and I would like to do a video series on that.
WISH i HAD THE TIME AND KNOWLEDGE YOU HAVE TO EXECUTE SUCH AN ENDEAVOR. i CAN DO BRAKES, FOR SURE. i WILL REPLACE MY HYDRALIC FLUIDAS IT'S NEEDED BY NOW. MAY I ASK, WHEN YOU PAINTED YOUR OLD HUBS, HOW DID YOU PREP WITH THE RUST ON? DID YOU WIREBRUSH TO REMOVE ALL RUST, OR JUST GET IT SMOOTH? THEN WHAT BRAND AND COLOR DID YOU SELECT? MY 8N IS IN NEED OF A NEW COAT OF PAINT AS ITS ALL ORIGINAL PAINT CURRENTLY. THUMBS UP!!! GREAT VIDEO
Thank you for your comments. Those hubs are brand new. They came bare metal. I highly recommend new hubs anytime you are repairing the seals. I painted them with Rustolium. I think the name is something like Sunset Red or something like that. It is very close to International red. When I go to fully restore it I will use the correct color.
Great slide show. Don't watch the other rear seal videos. They are useless and pathetic. My center nut was not tight at all. The retaining clip was doing it's job.
Hello, Liked your video. My 53 jubilee stopped turning the rear wheels. I think I have a broken rear axle. Are there any videos on removing and replacing the rear axle. This video didn't have enough details for a complete novice. ALso is there anywhere to buy a axle replacement kit where they give you all the parts you should replace? I like kits that are made for dummies.(like me). Hate to put it back together and find out that I should have replaced another part. like a race,seal or bearing.. Thanks!
Hey Tom thanks for watching. I'm willing to bet that you did not break a axle. Go back to the 1:28 minute mark in this video and notice that shaft towards the top of the tractor that's about a foot long or so? That is a coupler. It is like a driveshaft from your transmission to tour pinion gear. They sometimes will split on either end. Put the tractor in gear (engine off) and try to give it good push to see if it moves. If you want you can email me at jbeluschok@yahoo.com if you have anymore questions. I do have a whole video of a rear end rebuild but it is a 2N model however it is very common with your Jubilee other then the brakes and drums.
I loved the video. I have a 1950 8n and I blew the rear seal; I have a new seal like the one pictured in the video. The problem I am having is getting the outer retainer clip out (or seeing it); I have removed the PTO shaft and removed the inner retainer clip (I have temporarily returned the PTO shaft to the tractor for storage until I can figure out how to remove it). Any suggestions are greatly appreciated?
Steve Halsey There is a little notch in the ring at the tip. A flat screw driver can put in there and pry it out. Here is a more step by step video I did on a 2N. Jump to 14:25 in video when I do the PTO ua-cam.com/video/6ryDyOwmIsY/v-deo.html
Jason1Pa thanks. I found the video informing. I do have another question, what size bearing/seal driver did you use? Can I get that size at Harbor Freight? Thanks again for your help?
Steve Halsey I don't know the actual size. I either got it at Just8ns. com or Dennis Carpenter. Thats where I get my Ford parts. Harbor Freight won't have it.
oil is drained no metal push clutch down main shaft stops pry in gear with a bar leave clutch out all shafts turning still no move wheels even jacked up in gear ?
my friend has a 8n go,s in gear but does not move when jacked up when you rotate either tire the other does not go forward or reverse pto shaft does turn what do you think is the problem ?broken axle? or some thing else THANK YOU Robert.
If the tractor is on the ground and in gear (and gear) can you still push it? There is a driveshaft that does break (seen at 1:27 in this video) but the PTO should still work even if that broke. I'm expecting maybe the clutch disc fell apart. For the heck of it I would take the gear shift and plate assembly off and have a look down in there as you rotate the gears to look for any damage. Drain the oil out so you can see the gears down below.
@@Jason1Pa Pulled apart me ol' 49 this morning, I'll be needing her in the field real soon, got parts just clean-up and reassembly to go, thanks for the awesome vid, yer a pretty good mech I see.
@@twocyborgdogs just a heads up decreasing the brake pads normally doesn't turn out to successful. It's hard to imagine but threw time the oil soaked pads get juiced up again. You might have a little better luck if you put a torch to them and burn the grease and oil off but even the hot flame isn't penetrating deep enough into the pad. The oil will eventually work it's way to the surface again. So I always recommend new pads. Also new hubs no matter how well they may seem. Worn hubs is 9 times out of 10 why the seal is leaking in the first place. Also put a generous amount of gasket maker on the splines of the axles before you put the hub on. This prevents oil sneaking out threw the splines and on the face of the hub. And if possible after you tighten down the big axle nut try letting that gasket sealer on the axle splines dry as long as you can before moving the tractor. It takes a while to dry since air can't get it it. It's almost like putting the cap back on the tube so it doesn't dry but in this situation you want it to dry.
Bob Rhodes Since I really didn't rebuild a lot on this project I think it was around 600 for everything that took place in the video. If you check out my other videos on a bolt by bolt restoration on a 2N Ford it is a lot more costly. Way more then what it is worth to be honest.
Thanks for the reply ! Do you happen to know if there is a way to put a lower 1st gear for mowing tall brush ? I want to experiment and see if it will stop my bog down issue. I thought I might research that then try some electronic ignition and different carb. You seem pretty handy with these old tractors so I thought I would ask. If it cut well I would invest a little !!!! Thanks again
Anthony R Roach Here is a link to another video of mine. Fast forward to 22 minutes and 17 seconds I explain the whole oil thing. Hope it helps ua-cam.com/video/6ryDyOwmIsY/v-deo.html
i had pulled the lid of trans all looks ok no broken forks or gears pry in gear with a bar rear wheels no turn when it is jacked up and you rotate i wheel either direction should the other wheel turn in opposite direction ? rear wheels do the same thing even in neutral both spin free and not opposite by hand in neutral ?
If jacked up and in gear one the wheel your rotating will turn. Not the other side. However the engine should want to turn and make it very hard to rotate. I would expect a trashed clutch disc. Was this tractor running and being used or is this a project and you never had it running?
@@roberthouse1352 ok. So with with no direction fwd or Rev,no PTO,which would mean no hydraulic lift ability there is only one thing it could be and that's the clutch. That is the first thing the power of the engine goes threw. Without it. Nothing will function just like he is experiencing now.
@@Jason1Pa pto does work push clutch down it stops raise clutch pto and main shaft spins push clutch down pry in gear let clutch up main shaft and pto turns so the clutch is working ?
@@roberthouse1352 I'm sorry I thought you said before the PTO was not spinning. Yes the clutch is ok. Now that I heard about him snowplowing and it stopped it makes more sense. I would think the driveshaft tube broke that connects the differential and the back of the transmission. They like to split right where the shaft slides over the splined shaft. It's thinner in that area. If that breaks you won't be able to move but your PTO will still work.
I have a 49 8n everything works on it lift an pro an all but the steering is really hard going left steering to the right is good 2hat do u think b good place to start thanks
First off the steering gear boxes on the early 8Ns 1947-1949 are not the best. They were a failed design. They are considered the non adjustable type. After 49 they had a adjustable steering boxes that you could control the backlash between the gears. You could take yours apart and see what's going on. They make parts for them as well but with the cost of them and the hassle of getting them back together and timed probably you'd probably still be unhappy with the results. I'm in the same boat with the tractor in the video. There is a lot of slop in the steering. I've had it a part there is really nothing visibly wrong with. I've been looking for a newer style gear box just to replace it with.
Like I said in the beginning this is only a slide show. Unfortunately I didn't take any video. The seal is just in the round circular plate that you see. Most people including myself buy a new plate with the seal in it and bolt it up. There really isn't anything technical going on. Thanks for watching.
I can't remember exactly because I've done other things to it other then what was in the video,but what you see in this video would probably be around $600-800 range depending where you get parts from and shipping.
Which specs are you referring too? The 400 ft. pounds and the 2 to 6 thousands clearance for the axe shafts? A lot of times stuff won't be printed in the manuals. I have about 3 and one is far superior then the other two. A lot of info is also online with the Ford collector groups and such.
good afternoon I have a ford tractor 8n 4 cylinder I have a question and problem hopefully you can help me out this afternoon I was trying to cut my yard and a hydraulic system stays up at all times and when I put the liver down to lower it still stays up... but when I turn off the tractor everything goes back down what could be my problem can you please help me???
Leo Headbands Take the right side plate off where dip stick is. Make sure the long rod coming from the top is seated in the control valve. If it is move it back and forth to see if is is moving ok. If it is then it must be a stuck exhaust valve in your valve chamber.
I had this happen. It was a broken spring inside the pump valve. Buy a rebuild kit !!! Good news is that your lift arm piston is not leaking or else the lift would not stay up. It comes down when the pump is off. I just bought a used pump and swapped it out.
The axles are the same as this 8N. They simply pull out after you unbolt them from the axle housings. Then you'd need to press the bearings on and off. Don't have a video though.
I appreciate you responding. So trumpet housing can stay on and just pull axle out and slide new in? My tractor broke axle at very end of tube. The tire still has drum and end of axle still bolted to rim and you can see broken flush with small end of trumpet housing. Thank for listening to my nonsense.
@@paultomlinson7859 yes the axle will pull out of the trumpet. It just has splines on the end of the axle that slides right into the differential. Nothing holds it in once your brakes and hub and such are removed.
I would suspect a bad bearing in the transmission then. When you push the clutch in and the noise stops that's simply because the transmission shafts stop turning. When they stop turning so does the bad bearing.
That’s what I had feared and there aren’t any good video’s for 8n 4 speed.wood your video on the 2n mostly apply,and is it really necessary to replace the races by the way I enjoy your videos keep up the good work they are very informative thanks again
@Doug Reaves the 2N would definitely help however like you said the 8N transmission is a different breed but still your basic manual transmission from that time period. The hardest part is blocking and splitting the tractor safely other then that the actual teardown and reassembly and bearing preload would be the same technique. Yes for sure replace the race as well. I'd even replace everything once you have it apart all though not totally nessary
Thanks for the excellent video and commentary. I learned a lot. I have a 49 8N with a loader.
Thank you! I wish I would of done a step by step video but for some reason I didn't. There is a few things I'd like to go into more detail about. Thanks for watching!
Very good video. Thanks!
Thanks! Great Photos!
Very well done , have two with distributors out the side ,one with high range .and one NAA nice little tractors.
Dave Sawkey Thanks!! I'd like to get a 8N with a side distributor someday. All mine are front mount. Thanks for watching!!
Very good usefully info thank u.
I have a 9N I’m just messing with. I put new distrib, wires and plugs....New gas tank, carb kit, starter bendix......just trying to get it running right for now......I would love to have the knowledge you have on tractors. You did a great job and good video as well.....God bless
Why thank you!! I wish you the best with your 9N. I'm not sure if you have seen my other videos on my channel about the 9N/2N's I'm sure you'll find them helpful if you ever need to do anything.
Excellent video.....awesome tires I wish I wold have bought Firestone or Goodyear tires.
Bug Bomb Thanks!! Yes I'm real happy with the tires. A little pricey but worth it in the long run.
I love these old fords . I really want one to mow grass . Not like over grown stuff but already maintained lots .
They are great for that!
Awesome rebuild. Starting mine now on a 48 8N and doing all the research I can. I want to take it down as far as you did yours and paint everything.
Awesome good luck!! I have way better detailed videos on repairs of the N series tractors on my channel. Unfortunately I didn't do a step by step video on this repair.
@@Jason1Pa I have mine down to just the trans and rear axle housing now. I have the hydraulics out of it but I want to pull the axle housings next and the rear diff like you did to clean everything. How hard is it to get the diff out? do you have to worry about preload on the diff itself when putting it back together? I also want to take apart the trans to clean it really good so I will look for a video on that.
@jjay718 The diff pulls right out once you take the left axle housing off. As far as bearing preload no there is no adjustment for the differential BUT buy the proper gaskets so you have the right thickness. A lot of people just use gasket maker. When that housing is bolted down all of it will squeeze out leaving no gap like the gasket does. In my opinion that's too tight on the bearings
Awesome....great video!
Thanks!
Great video best i have seen well done!
eugene harley Thanks! !
Great job saving the old girl!
SYB-B Thanks and thanks for watching!!
Wow….. I just watched this again not know that I watched and committed as well…… I still agree with the first comment I made… ! I also live and work in PA as well ….. in the Greencastle area.
Your about 2 hours from me. I'm Southeast about 40 miles from Pittsburgh. Near Exit #75 off the Pa. Turnpike.
I frequent a tractor show in McConnellsburg from time to time. I've taken a couple tractors out to be in their big parade
Great vid, Thanks!
K Lavi Thanks! ! Thanks for watching!
I replaced the rear axle and hub on my '49. The shim preload as you call it, kind of went over my head. I just added shims till the rear wheels rotated in opposite directions. If I had your knowledge, I'd have been more scientific about it. Great video. Thanks
Well the way you did it is right however sometimes depending on the tractor the opposite rotation way may not happen until your a little too much on the loose side. It's better having them loose (with in reason) then too tight. I like the dial indicator simply because it takes the guess work out. I know exactly how much space is in between the axle shafts. I can sleep at night knowing they are perfect. Not too tight not too loose. Thanks for watching!!
Great slide show! I wondered about the thinner seals working with the original retainer locations. It would seem like that could be an issue. I probably am missing something/
Buy the way thanks for responding .You are one of the few opinions I’m interested in.I am currently working on an 8n with a noise I can’t quite nail down ,sounds like it’s coming from the rear part of transmission or hyd.pump a whining noise
Does the noise happen when the PTO is disingaged or only when it's engaged? When in neutral and tractor running does it make a difference if the clutch is pushed in or out?
Great video thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks! Great Video!
Thank you Sir 😆
Thanks for video !
Cata strophic Your welcome
Been hoping you would do some more tractor vids. Really liked the one on the engine rebuild. Question: how do you manage to get 450 ft lbs of torque? I have never dealt with that much. Thanks
Jim Buford I apologize for the late reply. Basically to get that kind of torque you need a 3 foot pipe slipped over a breaker bar and put all your weight on it...
I paid 1500dollars for my 1940 9n 14yrs. Ago and I won't take less than 3500dollars today best rebuilt one I've seen.👌
It's so sad how beat up and cheap these tractors have become 😰
okay thanks I will do so where is my exhaust valve chamber located in this tractor and it is stuck what should I do to repair it clean it out or replace it???
how are you doing sir loved your video, i also have a 8n 1949 tractor and was wondering if the rear-end transmission and hydraulics uses the same fluid or is it 3 different fill plugs
clinton owens All the same oil. Takes almost 5 gallons
That was very helpful, it shed a lot of light on an issue I have with mine. The one wheel has some wiggle to it. It appears someone has been in there and I'm assuming based on what you showed that either its not shimmed properly or the hub is worn. Or both, lol.
31 Ford That is very possible however if you rock them back and forth and still hear a noise and you know its shimmed properly and new hubs your hearing the movement in the axle where it slides into the differential. Nothing you can do about that and won't hurt nothing.
I will be looking into it at some point, rite now its not leaking or anything. However, I do have a hydraulic issue that I will be addressing pretty soon as it is a real pain to operate the way it is. As soon as you step on the clutch the implement starts to drop and relatively quick
The bearing preload and such
You mentioned Rebuilding from the Engine back on your 8N...are Videos forthcoming?
cheewurz As far as a step by step video No. What you see in this slide show is all it really needed. Just a good cleaning and seal replacment. The engine runs pretty good but there are a lot of seals and gaskets that need replaced. When I get around to that I'll more then likely rebuild the engine from top to bottom and I would like to do a video series on that.
WISH i HAD THE TIME AND KNOWLEDGE YOU HAVE TO EXECUTE SUCH AN ENDEAVOR. i CAN DO BRAKES, FOR SURE. i WILL REPLACE MY HYDRALIC FLUIDAS IT'S NEEDED BY NOW. MAY I ASK, WHEN YOU PAINTED YOUR OLD HUBS, HOW DID YOU PREP WITH THE RUST ON? DID YOU WIREBRUSH TO REMOVE ALL RUST, OR JUST GET IT SMOOTH? THEN WHAT BRAND AND COLOR DID YOU SELECT? MY 8N IS IN NEED OF A NEW COAT OF PAINT AS ITS ALL ORIGINAL PAINT CURRENTLY. THUMBS UP!!! GREAT VIDEO
Thank you for your comments. Those hubs are brand new. They came bare metal. I highly recommend new hubs anytime you are repairing the seals. I painted them with Rustolium. I think the name is something like Sunset Red or something like that. It is very close to International red. When I go to fully restore it I will use the correct color.
Thanks ,I just purchased a 1949 8N and the one axle seal is leaking. Nice video
Pretty common problem with them. Good luck on the repair. Thanks for watching!
Great slide show. Don't watch the other rear seal videos. They are useless and pathetic.
My center nut was not tight at all. The retaining clip was doing it's job.
Great video. I have the same tractor and found this video very helpful. Could you tell me where the best place is to order parts from?
Jason B I order either from Dennis Carpenter or Just8ns com
@Phil Hall - You probably meant "Steiner Tractor" at SteinerTractor.com - Rachel and Dan Gingell - they really seem to know their stuff!
Joe S
Hello,
Liked your video. My 53 jubilee stopped turning the rear wheels. I think I have a broken rear axle. Are there any videos on removing and replacing the rear axle. This video didn't have enough details for a complete novice. ALso is there anywhere to buy a axle replacement kit where they give you all the parts you should replace? I like kits that are made for dummies.(like me). Hate to put it back together and find out that I should have replaced another part. like a race,seal or bearing.. Thanks!
Hey Tom thanks for watching. I'm willing to bet that you did not break a axle. Go back to the 1:28 minute mark in this video and notice that shaft towards the top of the tractor that's about a foot long or so? That is a coupler. It is like a driveshaft from your transmission to tour pinion gear. They sometimes will split on either end. Put the tractor in gear (engine off) and try to give it good push to see if it moves.
If you want you can email me at jbeluschok@yahoo.com if you have anymore questions. I do have a whole video of a rear end rebuild but it is a 2N model however it is very common with your Jubilee other then the brakes and drums.
I loved the video. I have a 1950 8n and I blew the rear seal; I have a new seal like the one pictured in the video. The problem I am having is getting the outer retainer clip out (or seeing it); I have removed the PTO shaft and removed the inner retainer clip (I have temporarily returned the PTO shaft to the tractor for storage until I can figure out how to remove it). Any suggestions are greatly appreciated?
Steve Halsey There is a little notch in the ring at the tip. A flat screw driver can put in there and pry it out. Here is a more step by step video I did on a 2N. Jump to 14:25 in video when I do the PTO ua-cam.com/video/6ryDyOwmIsY/v-deo.html
Jason1Pa thanks. I found the video informing. I do have another question, what size bearing/seal driver did you use? Can I get that size at Harbor Freight? Thanks again for your help?
Steve Halsey I don't know the actual size. I either got it at Just8ns. com or Dennis Carpenter. Thats where I get my Ford parts. Harbor Freight won't have it.
Jason1Pa Thanks. All help is greatly appreciated.
Steve Halsey I am sorry Yes I got the seal and bearing at Harbor Freight. I thought I read where I got the actual bearing and seal.
oil is drained no metal push clutch down main shaft stops pry in gear with a bar leave clutch out all shafts turning still no move wheels even jacked up in gear ?
my friend has a 8n go,s in gear but does not move when jacked up when you rotate either tire the other does not go forward or reverse pto shaft does turn what do you think is the problem ?broken axle? or some thing else THANK YOU Robert.
If the tractor is on the ground and in gear (and gear) can you still push it? There is a driveshaft that does break (seen at 1:27 in this video) but the PTO should still work even if that broke. I'm expecting maybe the clutch disc fell apart. For the heck of it I would take the gear shift and plate assembly off and have a look down in there as you rotate the gears to look for any damage. Drain the oil out so you can see the gears down below.
Time to farm with that beautiful Ford.....;-)
This one will soon be a trailer Queen and be enjoying retirement.
@@Jason1Pa Pulled apart me ol' 49 this morning, I'll be needing her in the field real soon, got parts just clean-up and reassembly to go, thanks for the awesome vid, yer a pretty good mech I see.
@@twocyborgdogs Best of luck! What exactly are you working on?
@@Jason1Pa a 1949 Ford 8N replacing rear seals, de-greasing brakes.
@@twocyborgdogs just a heads up decreasing the brake pads normally doesn't turn out to successful. It's hard to imagine but threw time the oil soaked pads get juiced up again. You might have a little better luck if you put a torch to them and burn the grease and oil off but even the hot flame isn't penetrating deep enough into the pad. The oil will eventually work it's way to the surface again. So I always recommend new pads. Also new hubs no matter how well they may seem. Worn hubs is 9 times out of 10 why the seal is leaking in the first place. Also put a generous amount of gasket maker on the splines of the axles before you put the hub on. This prevents oil sneaking out threw the splines and on the face of the hub. And if possible after you tighten down the big axle nut try letting that gasket sealer on the axle splines dry as long as you can before moving the tractor. It takes a while to dry since air can't get it it. It's almost like putting the cap back on the tube so it doesn't dry but in this situation you want it to dry.
Good video !!! I hate to ask .... but could you ballpark the cost of the rebuild minus the tires ?Thamks
Bob Rhodes Since I really didn't rebuild a lot on this project I think it was around 600 for everything that took place in the video. If you check out my other videos on a bolt by bolt restoration on a 2N Ford it is a lot more costly. Way more then what it is worth to be honest.
Thanks for the reply ! Do you happen to know if there is a way to put a lower 1st gear for mowing tall brush ? I want to experiment and see if it will stop my bog down issue. I thought I might research that then try some electronic ignition and different carb. You seem pretty handy with these old tractors so I thought I would ask. If it cut well I would invest a little !!!! Thanks again
What kind of oil do you put in transmission ?
Anthony R Roach Here is a link to another video of mine. Fast forward to 22 minutes and 17 seconds I explain the whole oil thing. Hope it helps
ua-cam.com/video/6ryDyOwmIsY/v-deo.html
i had pulled the lid of trans all looks ok no broken forks or gears pry in gear with a bar rear wheels no turn when it is jacked up and you rotate i wheel either direction should the other wheel turn in opposite direction ? rear wheels do the same thing even in neutral both spin free and not opposite by hand in neutral ?
If jacked up and in gear one the wheel your rotating will turn. Not the other side. However the engine should want to turn and make it very hard to rotate. I would expect a trashed clutch disc. Was this tractor running and being used or is this a project and you never had it running?
@@Jason1Pa he was pushing snow with rear blade shifted gears now no move in either direction he has owned this tractor many many years
@@roberthouse1352 ok. So with with no direction fwd or Rev,no PTO,which would mean no hydraulic lift ability there is only one thing it could be and that's the clutch. That is the first thing the power of the engine goes threw. Without it. Nothing will function just like he is experiencing now.
@@Jason1Pa pto does work push clutch down it stops raise clutch pto and main shaft spins push clutch down pry in gear let clutch up main shaft and pto turns so the clutch is working ?
@@roberthouse1352 I'm sorry I thought you said before the PTO was not spinning. Yes the clutch is ok. Now that I heard about him snowplowing and it stopped it makes more sense. I would think the driveshaft tube broke that connects the differential and the back of the transmission. They like to split right where the shaft slides over the splined shaft. It's thinner in that area. If that breaks you won't be able to move but your PTO will still work.
I have a 49 8n everything works on it lift an pro an all but the steering is really hard going left steering to the right is good 2hat do u think b good place to start thanks
First off the steering gear boxes on the early 8Ns 1947-1949 are not the best. They were a failed design. They are considered the non adjustable type. After 49 they had a adjustable steering boxes that you could control the backlash between the gears. You could take yours apart and see what's going on. They make parts for them as well but with the cost of them and the hassle of getting them back together and timed probably you'd probably still be unhappy with the results. I'm in the same boat with the tractor in the video. There is a lot of slop in the steering. I've had it a part there is really nothing visibly wrong with. I've been looking for a newer style gear box just to replace it with.
Forgot to say it's sitting for 20 years could something b stuck in gear box
is the 8n an 9n the same from the motor back ?i.have a 9 n
No completely different
I nerd a gasket for the gear on the back of my 1949 Ford 8 N tractor, can you help?
Not sure what gasket you are referring to?
Liked your videos, though let's be honest, you never did show replacing the seal. I guess it's very simple.
Like I said in the beginning this is only a slide show. Unfortunately I didn't take any video. The seal is just in the round circular plate that you see. Most people including myself buy a new plate with the seal in it and bolt it up. There really isn't anything technical going on. Thanks for watching.
How many washers was behind the rear axle nut.
Connor Dodd Just one
All 3 chambers get the same hyd.fluid, right?
Correct. Also there are 3 drain plugs
Hi I wondering how much it actually cost to repair what you did. I have this model of a tractor and the rear is frozen but the engine works.
I can't remember exactly because I've done other things to it other then what was in the video,but what you see in this video would probably be around $600-800 range depending where you get parts from and shipping.
Jason1Pa where did you get the parts from
What manual are you talking about I have several and none mentioned those specs.
Which specs are you referring too? The 400 ft. pounds and the 2 to 6 thousands clearance for the axe shafts? A lot of times stuff won't be printed in the manuals. I have about 3 and one is far superior then the other two. A lot of info is also online with the Ford collector groups and such.
Here is a link to the manual. Page 29 Paragraph 88
www.manualslib.com/manual/1010371/Ford-8n-8nan.html?page=29#manual
good afternoon I have a ford tractor 8n 4 cylinder I have a question and problem hopefully you can help me out this afternoon I was trying to cut my yard and a hydraulic system stays up at all times and when I put the liver down to lower it still stays up... but when I turn off the tractor everything goes back down what could be my problem can you please help me???
Leo Headbands Take the right side plate off where dip stick is. Make sure the long rod coming from the top is seated in the control valve. If it is move it back and forth to see if is is moving ok. If it is then it must be a stuck exhaust valve in your valve chamber.
I had this happen. It was a broken spring inside the pump valve. Buy a rebuild kit !!! Good news is that your lift arm piston is not leaking or else the lift would not stay up. It comes down when the pump is off. I just bought a used pump and swapped it out.
Anything on how the rear axle is replaced on jubilee? Can't find anything. Thanks
The axles are the same as this 8N. They simply pull out after you unbolt them from the axle housings. Then you'd need to press the bearings on and off.
Don't have a video though.
I appreciate you responding. So trumpet housing can stay on and just pull axle out and slide new in? My tractor broke axle at very end of tube. The tire still has drum and end of axle still bolted to rim and you can see broken flush with small end of trumpet housing. Thank for listening to my nonsense.
@@paultomlinson7859 yes the axle will pull out of the trumpet. It just has splines on the end of the axle that slides right into the differential. Nothing holds it in once your brakes and hub and such are removed.
Thank you for your time and knowledge. I think I'm ready to take the job.
@@paultomlinson7859 Awesome good luck! Have any questions let me see if I can help out.
What’s the cost on those wheels?
Wheels?? Are you referring to the new hubs? If so they are normally around $60 a piece.
When you depress the clutch the noise goes away. It does it weather the pto is ingaged or nothing
I would suspect a bad bearing in the transmission then. When you push the clutch in and the noise stops that's simply because the transmission shafts stop turning. When they stop turning so does the bad bearing.
That’s what I had feared and there aren’t any good video’s for 8n 4 speed.wood your video on the 2n mostly apply,and is it really necessary to replace the races by the way I enjoy your videos keep up the good work they are very informative thanks again
@Doug Reaves the 2N would definitely help however like you said the 8N transmission is a different breed but still your basic manual transmission from that time period. The hardest part is blocking and splitting the tractor safely other then that the actual teardown and reassembly and bearing preload would be the same technique. Yes for sure replace the race as well. I'd even replace everything once you have it apart all though not totally nessary
informative video. would have been better if it were a John Deere. lol