I'm happy to like these, not because they tell me anything I don't know, but because they tell those who might not. I've been riding and working on my bikes over 40 years and worked in the trade all that time too, even if only doing parts. Most people of course have not and need good, simple guidance and advice. All good stuff, as we say over here.
Great tips with placing the new chain on the sprockets and with the recommendation of chain lube frequency. Video portrays the ease of the replacement so that success will be achieved the first time. Thank you again for clear, concise videos which allows us to safely keep our vintage Honda's on the road.
For setting the correct play in the chain would the rear tire need to be at least under the weight of the bike (not on the center stand) or is it supposed to be set with no weight on the bike? Thanks for all of your videos!
I too have heard to adjust the chain play with the bike under it's own weight vs on the center stand. It would make sense as there will be some stretch under it's own weight. If you adjust it on the center stand for one inch of play and then put the bike under it's own weight or with rider on it, the play would be less and it could end up being too tight. Just my 2 cents.
Also a good thing is to measure by metal ruler not tire but the rim of both sides down to the mm if it was running straight before you started. That way you can get your back wheel straight easily after using the factory lines to line up.. As most factory lines are not dependant after years of twist and use.
Simple and elegant way to install a chain. Back in the day, the chain on my CB450 broke on a long road trip. (I know, I was negligent on maintenance.) I wish I would have thought of this method instead of what I did do--which is too ugly to explain.
My 72 cb350k doesn’t have that second whole behind the left shock to attach the chain cover. I’m confused as to how I’m supposed to attach my chain cover lol. Any ideas???
So I don't need one of those riveting tools with these types of chains? I have a 1975 CB750 and I know the chain has been changed in the last couple years, so I'm assuming it has one of those clip on links. I'm going to put new sprockets and a new chain on it soon. One more question... will the new chain come with a master link?
You only need the tool if you're taking off the factory Honda chain or a chain that has no master link like you said. Or if you need to cut your chain down to a length after you get it. And our new chains do indeed come with the master link.
This is really good and makes it easy. However couldn't help noticing your rear sprocket looks really warn as the teeth look 'sharp' so won't the new chain wear out quickly?
We actually filmed this video at the same time as a sprocket video and replaced that too. You should definitely replace your sprockets at the same time if they're worn!
So I don't need one of those chain riveting tools to swap out my chain? Is that because of the type of chain you're using? That looked really easy to do.
You don't if you're removing a chain that has a master link. If you're taking off the OEM Honda chain from the factory you will need to press it out with a chain breaker. Other than that its definitely a quick job.
If you use an RK O ring chain they recommend the tool to apply the master link plate slowly and evenly, even if you use the spring clip. Those plates are VERY tight holes on the pins. Many use a vice grip or pliers to squeeze the plate on, but it is easy to oversqueeze and crush the supplied four rings. The compression feature of the tool lets you push the new plate on slowly, without angling it or bending the middle. Every turn you can check and see if you have clearance to apply the clip. RK racing chains exceed the OEM spec tensile strength and last much longer than factory or most aftermarket chains. $10 extra and twice the life. On CB250s and below they seem to last forever with few retentionings needed.
I'm happy to like these, not because they tell me anything I don't know, but because they tell those who might not. I've been riding and working on my bikes over 40 years and worked in the trade all that time too, even if only doing parts. Most people of course have not and need good, simple guidance and advice. All good stuff, as we say over here.
Great tips with placing the new chain on the sprockets and with the recommendation of chain lube frequency. Video portrays the ease of the replacement so that success will be achieved the first time. Thank you again for clear, concise videos which allows us to safely keep our vintage Honda's on the road.
Bravissimo
For setting the correct play in the chain would the rear tire need to be at least under the weight of the bike (not on the center stand) or is it supposed to be set with no weight on the bike? Thanks for all of your videos!
Definitely on the center stand. glad to help!
I too have heard to adjust the chain play with the bike under it's own weight vs on the center stand. It would make sense as there will be some stretch under it's own weight. If you adjust it on the center stand for one inch of play and then put the bike under it's own weight or with rider on it, the play would be less and it could end up being too tight. Just my 2 cents.
How about lubing the chain before installing? To help keep lube off everything else. The rag idea is cool! I usually cut up a cereal box.
Also a good thing is to measure by metal ruler not tire but the rim of both sides down to the mm if it was running straight before you started. That way you can get your back wheel straight easily after using the factory lines to line up.. As most factory lines are not dependant after years of twist and use.
I would appreciate a demo using a chain breaker…
I counted 112 links on my 1972 cb175. I don’t know what chain pitch to get either is there a way to tell that?
Simple and elegant way to install a chain. Back in the day, the chain on my CB450 broke on a long road trip. (I know, I was negligent on maintenance.) I wish I would have thought of this method instead of what I did do--which is too ugly to explain.
My 72 cb350k doesn’t have that second whole behind the left shock to attach the chain cover. I’m confused as to how I’m supposed to attach my chain cover lol. Any ideas???
Never witnessed a chain install without sprockets.
My chain is stuck in the front sprocket and it will not come loss.
So Helpful Thanks!!!
So I don't need one of those riveting tools with these types of chains? I have a 1975 CB750 and I know the chain has been changed in the last couple years, so I'm assuming it has one of those clip on links. I'm going to put new sprockets and a new chain on it soon. One more question... will the new chain come with a master link?
You only need the tool if you're taking off the factory Honda chain or a chain that has no master link like you said. Or if you need to cut your chain down to a length after you get it. And our new chains do indeed come with the master link.
“Loosens the wheel off camera”
This is really good and makes it easy. However couldn't help noticing your rear sprocket looks really warn as the teeth look 'sharp' so won't the new chain wear out quickly?
We actually filmed this video at the same time as a sprocket video and replaced that too. You should definitely replace your sprockets at the same time if they're worn!
THX! Very good video.
So I don't need one of those chain riveting tools to swap out my chain? Is that because of the type of chain you're using? That looked really easy to do.
You don't if you're removing a chain that has a master link. If you're taking off the OEM Honda chain from the factory you will need to press it out with a chain breaker. Other than that its definitely a quick job.
If you use an RK O ring chain they recommend the tool to apply the master link plate slowly and evenly, even if you use the spring clip.
Those plates are VERY tight holes on the pins. Many use a vice grip or pliers to squeeze the plate on, but it is easy to oversqueeze and crush the supplied four rings.
The compression feature of the tool lets you push the new plate on slowly, without angling it or bending the middle. Every turn you can check and see if you have clearance to apply the clip.
RK racing chains exceed the OEM spec tensile strength and last much longer than factory or most aftermarket chains. $10 extra and twice the life.
On CB250s and below they seem to last forever with few retentionings needed.
Nice work
Ingenious!
Killer vid👍👍
thank you!
These CMC vids are fantastic. Keep up the good work guys. Cheers from Australia.