Thank you, I'm glad I could share a video about the check valves and explain them at the same time. They are an important part in the hydraulic motor and that's why I decided to share this content. I will always try to improve and share the best knowledge I can on UA-cam, the rest is uncertain. Thank you Michael! Best regards
in the video you show using the 1.6 cross section but in audio you mentioned 1.7 cross section (10:53 in video) right after you finished taking filing off the bevel. Where would the best place be to buy o-ring? thank you
Great question. These white rings are called Teflon Backup Rings and they make up the gap, since the O-Ring is not big enough. I will try and find a link for them or at least the size and get back to you. Do you have these exact Check Valves？Best Regards -Andreas
Great video. My tractor won't go into neutral. I took those valves off cause the pistons were stuck. Should the tractor be able to be pushed(freewheel) with those removed? I'm wondering if I have another problem.
Thank you very much! I understand your issue and this could be caused by various components. The first thing you should check is if the wheel-hubs are free. You can lift up the rear end of the garden tractor and rotate each wheel separately. If one wheel is stuck, then one of your brakes is seized to the brake drum (inside of the hub). Let me know if this helps. Best regards -Andreas
Well that's great news. If your wheels turn that means they are not seized to the brake pads. If you have both check valves removed, lift the tractor in the back again and try to spin both wheels forward or in reverse (this will allow the drive gear to turn the pinion shaft). Is this even possible and/or do you feel or hear any grinding noise? Let me know. Cheers
@@WorkshopRebuild I just wasn't putting enough force the first time. Was afraid to break something. They spin and the tractor can be moved. Thank you so much.
No worries! Hydraulic rear end tractors are hard to push. If you ever need to pull this tractor over a longer distance, just remember to do it very slow. I hope everything works out for you and if you have any other questions let me know! Cheers -Andreas
This is a great explanation of how the check valves work in those Sundstrand pumps. You really deserve more views and subscribers!
Thank you, I'm glad I could share a video about the check valves and explain them at the same time. They are an important part in the hydraulic motor and that's why I decided to share this content. I will always try to improve and share the best knowledge I can on UA-cam, the rest is uncertain. Thank you Michael! Best regards
Thank you for the video. The exploded view made this a lot easier to work with.
You're more than welcome! I'm glad you found this helpful. Regards Andreas
Excellent break down of the check valve , searched endlessly to see internal workings of the valve , Super !!! where can i source the o=rings ??
in the video you show using the 1.6 cross section but in audio you mentioned 1.7 cross section (10:53 in video) right after you finished taking filing off the bevel. Where would the best place be to buy o-ring? thank you
They make good hyd valves and spools plus pumps
Worked on a lot of them
Thanks for sharing your positive experience with Sundstrand components! I think they have great products too😃👍🏽
Does anyone know the specs on the other o- rings and the Teflon backup washer?
Looks like you did a great job
Thank you Ronald, I appreciate your kind words. Regards -Andreas
10:36 you can remove the check body chrome the cap it is threaded into the cap no grinding necessary
Where is the thread?
Sorry my mistake some series have a finely threaded cap and you can take them apart.
@markfgraves6983 No worries! I was very curious to know, in case it was threaded😁👍🏼
Great fix
Thanks a lot, John. That's exactly what I try and do here. Purchasing new valves would have been easy...but they can be fixed!
What about the small white rings on the outside of the body? Mine is cracked.
Great question. These white rings are called Teflon Backup Rings and they make up the gap, since the O-Ring is not big enough. I will try and find a link for them or at least the size and get back to you. Do you have these exact Check Valves？Best Regards -Andreas
Are those the same check valves for an Toro 220D?
I have one leaking
I cannot confirm this. sorry!
Great video. My tractor won't go into neutral. I took those valves off cause the pistons were stuck. Should the tractor be able to be pushed(freewheel) with those removed? I'm wondering if I have another problem.
Thank you very much! I understand your issue and this could be caused by various components. The first thing you should check is if the wheel-hubs are free. You can lift up the rear end of the garden tractor and rotate each wheel separately. If one wheel is stuck, then one of your brakes is seized to the brake drum (inside of the hub).
Let me know if this helps. Best regards -Andreas
@@WorkshopRebuild I jacked it up today and both wheels will move just alittle and stop. Seems like the brakes are fine. Thank you for the suggestion.
Well that's great news. If your wheels turn that means they are not seized to the brake pads. If you have both check valves removed, lift the tractor in the back again and try to spin both wheels forward or in reverse (this will allow the drive gear to turn the pinion shaft).
Is this even possible and/or do you feel or hear any grinding noise? Let me know. Cheers
@@WorkshopRebuild I just wasn't putting enough force the first time. Was afraid to break something. They spin and the tractor can be moved. Thank you so much.
No worries! Hydraulic rear end tractors are hard to push. If you ever need to pull this tractor over a longer distance, just remember to do it very slow. I hope everything works out for you and if you have any other questions let me know! Cheers -Andreas