Mount Athabasca - Aug 2, 2023 - Jasper National Park - Emilie Cutts and Doug Lutz

This ascent is a repeat for me. In Aug 2015, Matt Hobbs and I used the same access to ascend Mount Athabasca, but on that day, there was thick smoke that had blown in obscuring our views such that we could barely see Snow Dome. Emilie Cutts and I had planned on ascending on Jul 14, but again, thick smoke rolled in, so we set our sights on Mount Black Prince - Hermione Peak on that day.
When I sensed that weather and the smoke forecast was going to be decent on the day after my Lake O'Hara trip for Yukness Mountain, I could not sit back and pass up the opportunity. I frankly did not know what shape I would be in after the O'Hara adventure of 42 km and 3000 metres of elevation gain, but the opportunity to ascend Athabasca was too appealing. I didn't even know if I would get out of Lake O'Hara area in time to get a decent amount of sleep for the follow-on ascent. I knew that I would just suck up any pain that I was experiencing, and haul my butt up the mountain.
I was excited for the ascent for multiple reasons - one of which was the promise of spectacular views. I was actually more excited about the ascent than for the Lake O'Hara adventure. Achieving the list of checking off all the summits in a guidebook is one thing, but standing on a giant with great company eclipses those feelings for me.
I hope that you enjoy the photos! Thanks Emilie for joining me on this beauty of a mountain!
Disclaimer:
While you may perceive that this route is 100% scramble in nature due to lack of technical terrain, recognize that the ascent line undoubtedly crosses glacial ice (whether a person recognizes it or not) - If you read the captions on some of the photos, I lay out my opinion on hidden terrain. A person should have knowledge of glacier travel for this route - especially if the glacier is not "dry" (that is, largely free of snow covering). Recognizing glacier hazards, and ensuring you avoid them is critical.
BTW, my video claims the summit as being in Banff National Park, and this is incorrect… it’s actually in Jasper National Park - summit is on the border of Jasper National Park and Banff National Park… and the ascent route comes from the Jasper National Park side too! I cannot change the video content without the URL changing, so I’ll leave my error stand.

[@lpfpo2371]

Great video, very informative. Thanks Doug. Banff or Jasper NP 😉

[@DougLutz]

Thanks! Yeah… Jasper National Park… the summit is right on the border of the two parks. I had always believed the border between the two parks was farther north by Sunwapta… and I was totally wrong in that assumption :D

[@stellali9348]

Sumit this gaint moutaint after a 42 km, 3000 meters evelation gain one day before, you are unbelieveble and unbeatable!

[@DougLutz]

Hahaha. Surely not unbeatable, but yeah, unbelievable that I would even consider that as possible… 5 years ago - maybe even 1 year ago I would not have believed my body would be able to endure that!

[@scottclapperton9793]

Sweeeet and great music DJ LUTz

[@DougLutz]

Thanks Scott!

[@eyalofer5015]

Wow. So you were not taking the regular route on the A glacier it self? A map of your route would be nice to see. Great vid

[@DougLutz]

Map is in the last 10 sec of the video. We did choose to walk on the AA col glacier between Andromeda and the outlier of Athabasca, but below the AA col, we diverted to climber’s left up scree to gain the col.