The NASKART is a ROLLER! The First DRIVE is Right Around the Corner!
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- Опубліковано 8 січ 2025
- Hey Guys, Migs Here! In today’s video, I am working on the half scale NASCAR, with its new engine out of a 1980 Honda CB750C, and finishing the jack shaft system in order to get the power down to the wheels, reinstalling the axle, carburetors, wheels, throttle control and more to get this ready for its first drive! Thanks for Watching! Please Subscribe, Like, Comment and Tell Your Friends About the Channel!
you will want to make a heat shield behind you Miggs buddy, those exhaust headers throw out a good amount of heat ;).
One major problem Miggs , no front engine mount soon as you run that the engine will flip backwards as there are no front engine mounts to stop it wanting to rotate. use the stock headers for now just cut them down and have them out the bottom of teh chassis, that way you can get a feel for the best placement. and as above you NEED a heat shield those headers are going to be super hot and cook you alive .
Very well said
He can wrap the headers in header wrap and they will work good also
@@OGKILLa9365 nah they won't lmao there isn't a good flow by
Put the clutch on the shift knob and when u are shifting just pressure the clutch with your hand
yes shifter stick then add a clutch leaver to the shifter leaver one hand does both the shifting and the clutch, you do not have enough room to add a clutch into the foot well without it impeading either the brake or throttle , IE your foot will catch either one when you try to dip the clutch peddle
the sprocket on the engine and jack shaft look like they are at different angles/ crooked. also should have welded the sprockets to some collars or hubs so you can remove them.
he right ^
He doesn't drive the stuff enough to need to replace the sprockets so they will last a long time
@@frasertive2726 yes but what if he needs to change the ratios!?
I cant wait for the first time this runs and all the welds blow apart lol
Why am I having a problem with his jack shaft mounting ?? I think the first time he gives it a lot of throttle it’s going to bend and hit the motor. That mounting he has welded on is just not looking strong enough. Just saying. You need to build a platform for the jack shaft to mount too. Get some more 1 inch square bar and a good thick plate of steel and weld a good platform for the jack shaft to mount to. Don’t be afraid to use nuts and bolts on this. I beg you to use some if not more. Your jack shaft mount is shitty mr. migs. Maybe you got an important hot date somewhere but fulfill this first. Like I said before in a previous video. I don’t want you to fail and last but not least I don’t want you to be hurt. Think about it sir. Be safe.
I agree its fucking nerv racking staf sori for bad english im from croatia
Correct
I agree
👍
Yes, I had this concern in the last video
The naskart vids are so interesting to watch. Postitive vibes Migs:D.
I love your videos keep up the great work
you should NOT have welded on the sprockets with the stock Motorcycle gearing. The gokart wheels are half ish the size of the motorcycle wheels så the gearing is way off. And please mount a Dirt bike/water jet deadman switch to that death trap. You need a way to kill the engine if(when) everything goes to hell. There is a BIG chance of the carb pistons getting stuck in wide open throttle because of the scratches you made on them the first time you pulled them out. I know you sanded/fixed it "migs style" but smale micro scratches can make the piston stick. so please mount a dead man switch to the engine.
supertedogpriken fu
The tensioner should be under, because when you roll the nascart the top side of the chain will tighten it's self and the bottom of the chain will be to loose. Hope it helps. Great vids.
Nope I thought that same thing till i took a good look on the small chain yes on the bottom but on the large chain it is backwards it needs it on the top , because if the engine was in front of the sprocket it would be on the bottom...
Another high quality video from Moto mig's
Have you added any engine mounts besides the one at the rear? Make sure it is mounted well before you take it for a test drive
You're getting better at welding
He really Isn't
@@elmothewise3915 you should've seen when he first got the dam welder. I promise you it's better or I wouldn't of said it.
@@frasertive2726 Oh I Just Guess That his welds Still aren't Sturdy I thought There The Same, Sorry!
Just a tip, just do the work. We all understand what needs to get done. We don’t need 10 min of talking with 2 min of work.
And stop putting "almost" in title covers. Its ready or not lol
i keep saying this
Thank you
Dirt Moto there’s nothing wrong with him explaining his thought process. Just fast forward or don’t watch it
It's so easy to make a jack shaft correctly you make some mounts for the pillow block bearings so the can slide back and forth with bolts and be easily removed then you buy a shaft that has a keyway or have someone put one in it then you buy sprockets with set screws and keyway then you get axle collars and lock down the sprockets, you basically did everything wrong, it takes less time to do it wrong but more to fix it and do it the right way.
Why would you weld the sprockets on, what happens when you need to replace the sproket
He won't ever need to as he has all these bike and doesn't use them
Or if gearing needs changed.
You could get them off lol it would be a pain but you could
he is using the stock gearing for a 18-19" motorcycle wheel, and the ass cart has 10-11" ish wheels. so we already know the gearing is gone be WAY off...
If he needs to change them he just has to get a new jack shaft he bought a long piece, just re-do it all and this time do it right...
As soon as you give it gas the jack shaft mount is going bend towards the motor
Oh man, this dude can lay some dimes if I’ve ever seen em
Issues to consider before driving. Lube the chain. Reinforce the jack shaft. Heat shield. And get some air dams to force air to the air cooled engine.
Cool meter is rising, hitting bout 85%. Doing great kid.
From the engine drive to that spocket I honestly would just slot the holes on the pillow blocks and slide them back to tighten that since you have that spring loaded tensioner you can get away with having the chain loose while the other side is tight
I am so pump and can't wait to see this thing drive
Nice work it coming together have you thought of mounting a clutch lever on the steering wheel for the clutch
You should make the next video like 30 minutes or 40 and get it all done in 1 video great job👍
You can drill a few holes in a woorden board, one just as big as the gas cable, drill iT horizontal,the other one just as big as your old connector, drill iT vertical just at the end of the horizontal hole.Than you can solder your OWN connection on that cable.
Been waiting on this video, I love watching your videos man
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥 been waiting bro 🤙🏽 love the nascar build!!!!!
Another quick one MIggs , DO NOT throw away the old airbox , those carbs work on a vacuum and they will require the old airbox to run sweet, if you dont use the original airbox and go with pod filters you will find after 3/4 throttle the power breaks up and it becomes spluttery.
You will also need to re-sync those carbs and make sure all the throttle butterflys / choke butterflys open and close at the same time ;)
You should make “it’s gonna be mint” hats 100% would buy
Just add the clutch lever to the shifter it will save time and it will be long enough to work
You can also put a dirt bike clutch lever on the shift lever that you're gonna use..
Yo mix don't take any of my comments personal you're making great progress I love the videos keep up the good work
All I saw was the first drive and I was like yessss then it sad right around the corner and I was like dang now I'm mad
Hey when you do get the engine running make sure to synchronize the carburetor put a synchronizer gauges on there to see where the vacuum reading is
a good place for that kind of cable is a bicycle shop as they can make them to any length you want
You might need the carbs vacuum setting when running so it runs right.
Good work 👍🏻
Think about fab more looks jacked ! Like the shaft
I would definitely reinforce that jackshaft a lot before putting it under any sort of load. As far as the exhaust headers go if I were you I would chop off the exhaust flanges off the stock headers from the motorcycle and weld custom headers for the naskart. I would also mount a dead man switch to the front in case the whole thing goes to hell
I waited this video so long
The sprocket on the axel is moving up and down take the sprocket holder off and line it up properly when the chain spins itll tension up and loosen when its spinning
Looks good, but you need to brace up that jack shaft and put some rubber between the motor and mounting thing you made, it else the motor will rattle a hole in itself
She’s gonna be FFFAST
You should build a removable scatter shield for the top side of the chains. I’ve had a few fly apart and it doesn’t feel the greatest.
Please read this to this how how you sync the carburetor you will need to do this with the carb since you cleaned the carburetor an rebuilt the top end basiclly... So if you want that 750 to run good do this..
CB750, XS650, KZ650 CARB SYNC & TUNING
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In order to get your old Japanese motorcycle project running well, you’re going to need to spend a little bit of time thoroughly cleaning and syncing the carburetors. With a little patience and the right tools, cleaning and syncing carbs is not a terribly difficult procedure.
However, depending on your motorcycle’s exact set up (i.e. anything other than completely stock - cylinder bore, pistons, exhaust, and airbox vs. pods) you may find that you need to try different jet combinations to get your machine tuned and running properly at all throttle positions.
Materials you’ll need to sync your carbs:
Vacuum gauges (with plug hole extenders depending on your motorcycle)
Auxiliary fuel tank or long fuel hose.
Proper sized wrenches for adjusting locknuts.
While you’re at it, check out info for timing the ignition on these bikes.
CB750
Honda CB750 Carb Sync Instructions:
Initial CB750 Carb Sync:
Remove the fuel tank and set up an auxiliary tank or a long fuel line to the carbs.
Remove the air cleaner to confirm proper operation of the choke butterfly valves.
If the clearance between the choke valve and carb body is greater than .5mm, adjust the choke clearance by lengthening or shortening the choke lever adjustment rod.
Adjust the throttle stop screw to line up the T mark with the indicator on the carb body for each carb.
Loosen and adjust the throttle cable lock nut and cable adjuster so that there is about 1 to 2 mm of play in the cable.
Make sure the play in each carbs cable is the same.
Turn each carb air screw until it seats, then back it out 1 full turn.
Reinstall the airbox.
Vacuum sync:
Start the engine and warm it up to operating temperature.
Remove the vacuum plug holes in each carb body and screw in the vacuum gauge adapters.
Set the idling speed to 850 to 950 RPM. Adjust the throttle stop screws in each carbs to reach the proper idling speed and the same vacuum readings for each carb.
Open the throttle and bring the RPMs up to about 3,000.
Watch the vacuum gauges to see that the needles rise to the same position at about the same rate.
Adjust the top cable locknuts to achieve the same vacuum in each carb.
Check the idle again and adjust via the throttle valve lock screws.
The the throttle a few times to confirm vacuum readings.
Turn the wheel to check that the cables are routed and adjusted properly
On the throttle cable you can melt the tip and make a new one of sauder look it up good luck
Put the motorbike engine clutch lever on your gear change lever... less complicated and works perfectly...
Hey buddy make sure you put a tensioner on the bottom of the chain... As in it will be the slack side
Once you find headers you should definitely make a beetle exhaust straight out the back
Your not suppose to tack it to the axle if it breaks u won't be able to get it off
Who remembers mr blobby well he’s back in the form of this guys welds
I would weld up a chain guard so you can save your case it’s probably been said but if not here you go
Just a heads up kid. Those carbs won't run properly without vacuum so airpods won't work need factory air box. Or make custom one based off factory design. Good luck buddy keep up all the positivity.
I wish you would have raced that, that cassis is a rare one and isn't made anymore I would know I have one but as long as you have fun messing it up go ahead
Nice job man
😳
Make sure chain tensions are on the bottom of the chain
those welds on that jack shaft will not hold very long because you cant weld cast ion with a mig welder and those pillow blocks are cast ion
Looking great migs, What's the name of that instrument you use? It's so relaxing I want to download and cruise to it 🖒
You should first weld when you got the chain on, then you're sure its a 100% straight
Cool
Try using mountain bike jokies as tenstioners that might help just put a bigger spring on
Can't wait to see it in action but i'm afraid it will come apart when you rip it. You have skipped so many vital bits to get it done properly. Good luck 😉
How are you going to change the sprockets?
Why do you go through all that breaking a chain by cutting it a chain breaker is like $12 at harbor freight
MAKE SURE YOU WRAP THE HEADERS IN HEADER WRAP. hope you listen to me lol, also put a fiberglass heat shield.
For the love of god get someone to reweld that back half before your chain setup goes flying.
When he said the next day it’s not he just changed his shirt his hands are still dirty 😂
You need a heat sheild between the seat and the engine
you shoud make some tipe of sheald if the chain snaps the chain on my go cart broke and the master linck whent fliying trow the seat
I pray he goes back in the future and revamps this.
Wassup
Let go, so long to get it moving
I don't remember if the front wheels have brakes. If not, I think it would be a really good idea to have front brakes. That one rotor and caliper on the rear axle is likely not gonna be enough. Just a thought. I wanna see this thing rip, but I DON'T want to see you get ripped apart.
Turn the shifter down tighten it then weld a pipe the goes from bottom of shifter straight into nascar and weld a pipe going straight up
make the shift nob the piston from the old engine or one from the new one (the extra ones)
The way you mounted your Jack shaft is not going to work man. Its going to break really easy
can you please do different music i have heard this 100 times
Agreed! I been trying to send him different music but doesnt reply
I know this isn’t your biggest problem but go check out cars and cameras, they made a homemade air filter and it looks like it works pretty good
Is it going to go forward or backwards?
Should have drilled through and bolted the pillow bearings ur basically welding cast and cast don't weld good
That jack shaft going to snap as soon as you try to take off.should look at another way to set that all up.
where are the engine mounts?
I dont know if I can watch anymore of this debacle. I keep hollering at the screen, and he won't listen! Lol
Hopefully I didn't just see you weld the sprockets on? Hope you never have to replace them.🤦🏻♂️🤣
Oh Yeah. That is exactly what you saw. Lol
Drop the clutch on the first ride. If it’s gonna break, it’s gonna break then
you can not weld the sproket on the axl it whel break or snap for shur and add a kill swich
Dude, you are going to get hurt with that thing. It's cool, but it is SO rigged up. For the large drive sprocket, use a round piece of steel between the 2 parts you currently have welded, and drill and tap holes to match the existing piece and the new sprocket. That way, you don't need ANY welds on it, and it can be removed. Make sure you put the chain tensioner on the lower side of that sprocket (the side that is not doing the driving). Good luck. I gave you a thumbs up for the video.
I hope you know what you're getting yourself into putting a 750 cc engine on that kart....cause i've built a few karts with street bike engines on them , and they're definitely not a toy.....i suggest putting a throttle stop on it so you cant get full throttle , until you've atleast driven it enough to be comfortable with it....cause it is going to be SUPER unpredictable ....
Short chain doesnt need a tensioner
Turn the old shifter down and weld a piece or pipe and put elbo
You should watch the Chanel " it will do fine " because thy are coming up with some pretty smart carb Idieas that you may be able to copy because that are working on the same engine
It's "Isaac it'll be fine". Not "It will do fine". How did you get "It will do fine" out of "Issac it'll be fine"? Lol
Sorry I meant cars and cameras because their slogan is" it will be fine
hey you are going to have to pull the sprocket back off to drill because you can't get a drill into to it
Darryl Patterson ikr
every other video has “ALMOST READY” in the title. will it ever be actually ready
if you have watch cars and ccameras, you know how much work it takes to get the carbs/engine running right, so this thing will probably be ready late 2025-2030 going his speed.
Bro great video but change the music dude we have heard this for years now lmao
Dude you
Can make a drift cart
Use the metal electric conduit it’s cheap it’s like five bucks for 10 foot
First
So if you welded everytihing Else why didin't weld the chain
first
1st
Just because you got a welder dont mean. Everything needs welded on your gunna want to change the split sprokets
My shaft is also 6ft long😏