Excellent video! Thank you for taking the time to video the process and post it for the rest of us. After I replace the seal kit on my boom I will be working on the cylinders for the loader and then the stabilizers, you have shown me some valuable tips to help save time and not busy my hands up as much 🙂. I thank you for your help and your replies are greatly appreciated as well. After I rebuild my cylinders I may message you about the controls for my backhoe - they are sticking and I want to fix that soon as well. Take care!
I appreciate your nice comment brother, my control joysticks use to stick because the backhoe was set for a long time, when I removed the control cover, I washed everything, inspected the spools, joints and arms, everything was okay, I sprayed it with WD40 and worked it. then sprayed everything with penetrating oil, they are working fine now. Be safe and have a good day
I believe this to be my problem as well. My backhoe has been sitting for about 6 years before I got it and was only started once every few months with no operation on the backhoe or loader. It's a great backhoe, just needs a little work. Be safe brother!
Do you recall what size sockets it takes for the nut on the bottom of the rods for the boom cylinder and loader cylinders? Mainly wondering if they are standard or metric
Hey friend, Excellent video and tips! Love to see more videos of this type and also of the equipment in action digging or however! HEAVY equipment such as backhoes, dozers excavators etc have been fascinating ever since as a child I learned and watched them much as I could.
Good evening sir, I have 18 videos regarding the restoration process of the bulldozer, I also uploaded a video about using the bulldozer to help dig two ponds, I am currently in the process of restoring JD 310D backhoe, Please check them out, there will be more to come, I appreciate your nice comment. Thank you
Thanks Salam! I believe that I have watched all of your videos at least once. Very helpful! Interesting how "easy" it was for you to disassemble these, compared to what I ran into. Water and Rust appear to be the main enemies here. On both of my stabilizers, the gland nuts were literally hand-tight, and there was extensive rust inside the first +- 2" of the cylinder. The Swing cylinders were much the same. I have not gotten to the others yet. This meant water, and a lot of cream-colored fluid collecting in the system. My main problem was that no matter how well I thought that I had cleaned the area around the internal Snap Rings (in all cases), the installation ring failed to stay in place. For the stabilizers, this caused some damage to the Wear Rings (no big deal). Trying to clean the area inside the swing cylinders more thoroughly before extracting the assembly, did not unfortunately work out for me. I believe that the amount of internal rust (that I could not reach) was too much for the ring, and it got caught during removal. It was unbelievably hard to move the gland at all for snap ring removal, and took a lot of pounding. The first time, all I lost was the cast iron wring out front, but the second one (after being even more careful to try and "clean") I ended up breaking the front portion of the piston. That is not an easy part to find at all (I am still trying). I fully plan on packing these with grease as you show. I already have some Marine Grade stuff for re-assembly. I plan on sending this machine to my son when I am done excavating, and I would not wish those problems on anyone! Thanks for that continued advice. My machine was not maintained well by previous owners. The creamy hydraulic fluid is a good indicator of water getting into the system through bad seals. Up north with the snow/ice, it is not hard getting in. Storing these under any sort of roof will keep these machines operational much longer. As far as extraction methods, I would be inclined to create some sort of motor-driven screw-shaft sort of slow removal method. Something that is slow, but powerful, maybe 12V powered. I am sure that I could have caught the ring/piston problem I ran into (e.g. gotten a tie-wrap or other compression method to catch). Even sort of like an old scissor-jack (that they make for cars) might have worked. Oh, I hope that you are going to Paint that bad-boy! If mine were 1/10th as clean as yours, I would have already done so. ** note: at least three of the sources for aftermarket kits for my 310C did NOT have the wear rings (the RE20430 Bore Kit) for my stabilizers. I finally got kits from ZerksPlus.com for the RE20430 that DID have the wear rings. Buying from a local dealer means you can return if you have an error, but once opened, you may have some difficulty returning aftermarket ones. This set me back weeks and weeks. Advice from me: Look/Measure BEFORE opening, and make sure everything appears to be there! A set of micrometers from Harbor Freight, a somewhat necessary tool, can make this pretty easy to do through the package. -Regards!
Good morning sir, I don't know why manufacturer like John Deere don't recommend or use something to prevent the rust around the gland. On my machine, The CROWD cylinder was the hardest to come out. After I removed the castle nut, I applied WD-40 and waited about one hour. I pushed the gland in, then I extracted the ring, then sand it all the way to remove the rust. I also did my best to clean the groove for the snap ring/installation ring area. Then I installed the installation ring and pulled the rod straight with the tractor and it came out OK. If the piston that you have is damaged little bit, you can repair it if you have lathe and welding grinding knowledge. The piston job is only to house the rings to seal the pressure to move the rod. As long as the rings is seated correctly and the metal part of the piston will not come in contact with the cylinder wall then that is good enough. On my bulldozer, one of the pistons was damaged and I was able to build some weld with 7018 rods and then grind it to shape and fine tune it with the file. Make sure you get car engine cylinder polish tool to polish the inside of the hydraulic cylinders to extend the life of the new seals. I am going to paint my machine after I build a shop. Also, since your hydraulic system is contaminated with water, make sure you inspect the cylinders from the inside for any rust. Also flush the hydraulic system and replace the filter. Water in the system will damage the cylinders, pump and the control Valves. If you have any questions please let me know, you have a good day.
Thank you Salam for sharing. I didn't know grease was compatible with Hydraulic fluid. I that a special grease. I know when I rebuilt the Alison AT540 transmissions, I would mix vaseline and transmission fluid to make a paste for installing seals. What is that that you are using? Awesome video, and thank you for your final comments and recommendations.
I just used lithium bearing grease. The hydraulic system is separate from the automatic transmission fluid. The grease will not cause any issue in this system. I also used anti seize on the thread of the glands to make future work easier. Thank you
Interesting video by a skilled person. My old JD 310A has a leaking steering cylinder that I need to repair. Unfortunately I don't know enough to attempt to fix it like you did. I have to figure how to take out and to me that's complicated enough. I'll be following you from now on. Thank you.
Hello sir, I appreciate your nice comment, if you need any help with your cylinder, please post any question you may have and I will be happy to help you, it should be easy, Thank you
Hi Salam: Thank you very much for your "hydraulic cylinder rebuild school". If you are not teaching as a profession, you could be. I like your easy pace detail explanations, professional tips and clean work spaces. I have a JD 410C which is slated for a complete hydraulic system overhaul and your videos are going to be invaluable. Thank you again. One question; have you done any control valve overhauls on your JD310?
Good afternoon sir, I appreciate your nice comment. I haven't did any valve job on my backhoe. I am planning to do so in the future. However, I have very detailed video on the controller valve for my bulldozer. It should help you on how to rebuild any type of hydraulic valve. Please watch it and if you have any questions please let me know. This is the link for the video: ua-cam.com/video/cA9sZnnyLAI/v-deo.html
Thank Salam, I really appreciate your content. I have a JD 310C in about the same condition and due to your videos I now have the confidence to rebuild the cylinders on my own. I'll be tackling the bucket cylinder in the next few days. My stabilizer cylinder rods could also use replacing and it appears our machines share the same part number (RE26577) - would you mind sharing where you picked up the aftermarket rods you used? Thanks again!
Good morning sir, I bought mine from a place in Irving, Texas called Heavyquip. Look them up. They have several branches in several states. Thank you for the nice comment, if you have any questions please let me know.
Thanks for the quick reply. Your video is excellent. I wish I had your video when I rebuilt the dipper cylinder on my 310D back in 2010. I’m getting ready to do the left steering, right bucket and left stabilizer and I have to re-do the dipper cylinder again.
How come my swing Arm will only go to the right, and it will go to the left. But very, very slowly. And both Cylinders were just rebuilt. What is my issue?
Did you check the value that controls the swing? Did you check if there are any mechanical issues with all the hinge points? Also make sure all the linkages from the stick that operates the swing to the valve are good and the hydraulic tank is full.
I need more information, type of the machine? is the steering hard in one direction or both? what troubleshooting you did so far? is there any mechanical problem with the steering linkage? does it stay hard to turn on low and high RPM?
@@roberttewtew1462 for me to be able to help you, I need to know: what troubleshooting you did so far? is there any mechanical problem with the steering linkage? does it stay hard to turn on low and high RPM? Have you replaced the hydraulic filter? Do you have other hydraulic problem? if you lift the front tires off the ground, is the steering stay hard? Any other information would be great. Good luck
Si está comprando una retroexcavadora vieja, la serie John Deere 310 es una buena retroexcavadora, el precio depende de la calidad. La mía fue fácil de arreglar y encontré las piezas en línea por poco dinero.
Encontré el mío en el mercado de Facebook. se lo compré a un particular. puede buscar en línea (mercado de Facebook, craigslist o subasta de equipos). También puede verificar y ver si tiene un concesionario de equipos usados en su área.
![Resealing a Backhoe Hydraulic Stabilizer Cylinder [Dynahoe 160 Part 10]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5uMxdIbbUHc/mqdefault.jpg)
![Resealing a Backhoe Hydraulic Stabilizer Cylinder [Dynahoe 160 Part 10]](/img/tr.png)
Just got a 310a, this video is very detailed and definitely helps me with this old machine.
Thank you for the nice comment. Congratulations for the new backhoe.
Thank you Salam, this helped me fix the leaking steering cylinders on my 310SE. Good job on your 310D, and thank you for your excellent videos
Thank you, I appreciate your comment.
Thank you so much for the video! Helped a lot
Thank you, I appreciate your comment
Excellent video! Thank you for taking the time to video the process and post it for the rest of us. After I replace the seal kit on my boom I will be working on the cylinders for the loader and then the stabilizers, you have shown me some valuable tips to help save time and not busy my hands up as much 🙂. I thank you for your help and your replies are greatly appreciated as well. After I rebuild my cylinders I may message you about the controls for my backhoe - they are sticking and I want to fix that soon as well. Take care!
I appreciate your nice comment brother, my control joysticks use to stick because the backhoe was set for a long time, when I removed the control cover, I washed everything, inspected the spools, joints and arms, everything was okay, I sprayed it with WD40 and worked it. then sprayed everything with penetrating oil, they are working fine now. Be safe and have a good day
I believe this to be my problem as well. My backhoe has been sitting for about 6 years before I got it and was only started once every few months with no operation on the backhoe or loader. It's a great backhoe, just needs a little work. Be safe brother!
Do you recall what size sockets it takes for the nut on the bottom of the rods for the boom cylinder and loader cylinders? Mainly wondering if they are standard or metric
All the hardware on my machine is metric, however, I used 2-1/4” socket on the boom cylinder rod’s nut.
Excellent, thanks for the tips
You are welcome, thank you for the comment.
Hey friend, Excellent video and tips! Love to see more videos of this type and also of the equipment in action digging or however! HEAVY equipment such as backhoes, dozers excavators etc have been fascinating ever since as a child I learned and watched them much as I could.
Good evening sir, I have 18 videos regarding the restoration process of the bulldozer, I also uploaded a video about using the bulldozer to help dig two ponds, I am currently in the process of restoring JD 310D backhoe, Please check them out, there will be more to come, I appreciate your nice comment. Thank you
@@SalamSayhood yes sir I shall watch them all and would love to see more !
@@DAMEBRAMAGE Thank you sir,
Thanks Salam! I believe that I have watched all of your videos at least once. Very helpful! Interesting how "easy" it was for you to disassemble these, compared to what I ran into.
Water and Rust appear to be the main enemies here.
On both of my stabilizers, the gland nuts were literally hand-tight, and there was extensive rust inside the first +- 2" of the cylinder. The Swing cylinders were much the same. I have not gotten to the others yet. This meant water, and a lot of cream-colored fluid collecting in the system.
My main problem was that no matter how well I thought that I had cleaned the area around the internal Snap Rings (in all cases), the installation ring failed to stay in place. For the stabilizers, this caused some damage to the Wear Rings (no big deal).
Trying to clean the area inside the swing cylinders more thoroughly before extracting the assembly, did not unfortunately work out for me. I believe that the amount of internal rust (that I could not reach) was too much for the ring, and it got caught during removal. It was unbelievably hard to move the gland at all for snap ring removal, and took a lot of pounding. The first time, all I lost was the cast iron wring out front, but the second one (after being even more careful to try and "clean") I ended up breaking the front portion of the piston. That is not an easy part to find at all (I am still trying).
I fully plan on packing these with grease as you show. I already have some Marine Grade stuff for re-assembly. I plan on sending this machine to my son when I am done excavating, and I would not wish those problems on anyone! Thanks for that continued advice.
My machine was not maintained well by previous owners. The creamy hydraulic fluid is a good indicator of water getting into the system through bad seals. Up north with the snow/ice, it is not hard getting in. Storing these under any sort of roof will keep these machines operational much longer.
As far as extraction methods, I would be inclined to create some sort of motor-driven screw-shaft sort of slow removal method. Something that is slow, but powerful, maybe 12V powered. I am sure that I could have caught the ring/piston problem I ran into (e.g. gotten a tie-wrap or other compression method to catch). Even sort of like an old scissor-jack (that they make for cars) might have worked.
Oh, I hope that you are going to Paint that bad-boy! If mine were 1/10th as clean as yours, I would have already done so.
** note: at least three of the sources for aftermarket kits for my 310C did NOT have the wear rings (the RE20430 Bore Kit) for my stabilizers. I finally got kits from ZerksPlus.com for the RE20430 that DID have the wear rings.
Buying from a local dealer means you can return if you have an error, but once opened, you may have some difficulty returning aftermarket ones. This set me back weeks and weeks. Advice from me: Look/Measure BEFORE opening, and make sure everything appears to be there! A set of micrometers from Harbor Freight, a somewhat necessary tool, can make this pretty easy to do through the package.
-Regards!
Good morning sir, I don't know why manufacturer like John Deere don't recommend or use something to prevent the rust around the gland. On my machine, The CROWD cylinder was the hardest to come out. After I removed the castle nut, I applied WD-40 and waited about one hour. I pushed the gland in, then I extracted the ring, then sand it all the way to remove the rust. I also did my best to clean the groove for the snap ring/installation ring area. Then I installed the installation ring and pulled the rod straight with the tractor and it came out OK.
If the piston that you have is damaged little bit, you can repair it if you have lathe and welding grinding knowledge. The piston job is only to house the rings to seal the pressure to move the rod. As long as the rings is seated correctly and the metal part of the piston will not come in contact with the cylinder wall then that is good enough.
On my bulldozer, one of the pistons was damaged and I was able to build some weld with 7018 rods and then grind it to shape and fine tune it with the file.
Make sure you get car engine cylinder polish tool to polish the inside of the hydraulic cylinders to extend the life of the new seals.
I am going to paint my machine after I build a shop.
Also, since your hydraulic system is contaminated with water, make sure you inspect the cylinders from the inside for any rust. Also flush the hydraulic system and replace the filter. Water in the system will damage the cylinders, pump and the control Valves. If you have any questions please let me know, you have a good day.
Thank you Salam for sharing. I didn't know grease was compatible with Hydraulic fluid. I that a special grease. I know when I rebuilt the Alison AT540 transmissions, I would mix vaseline and transmission fluid to make a paste for installing seals. What is that that you are using?
Awesome video, and thank you for your final comments and recommendations.
I just used lithium bearing grease. The hydraulic system is separate from the automatic transmission fluid. The grease will not cause any issue in this system. I also used anti seize on the thread of the glands to make future work easier. Thank you
Interesting video by a skilled person. My old JD 310A has a leaking steering cylinder that I need to repair. Unfortunately I don't know enough to attempt to fix it like you did. I have to figure how to take out and to me that's complicated enough. I'll be following you from now on. Thank you.
Hello sir, I appreciate your nice comment, if you need any help with your cylinder, please post any question you may have and I will be happy to help you, it should be easy, Thank you
Thank you so much!
Thank you, I appreciate your comment
Hi Salam: Thank you very much for your "hydraulic cylinder rebuild
school". If you are not teaching as a profession, you could be. I like your easy pace detail explanations, professional tips and clean work spaces. I have a JD 410C which is slated for a complete hydraulic system overhaul and your videos are going to be invaluable. Thank you again. One question; have you done any control valve overhauls on your JD310?
Good afternoon sir, I appreciate your nice comment. I haven't did any valve job on my backhoe. I am planning to do so in the future. However, I have very detailed video on the controller valve for my bulldozer. It should help you on how to rebuild any type of hydraulic valve. Please watch it and if you have any questions please let me know.
This is the link for the video:
ua-cam.com/video/cA9sZnnyLAI/v-deo.html
Thank Salam, I really appreciate your content. I have a JD 310C in about the same condition and due to your videos I now have the confidence to rebuild the cylinders on my own. I'll be tackling the bucket cylinder in the next few days. My stabilizer cylinder rods could also use replacing and it appears our machines share the same part number (RE26577) - would you mind sharing where you picked up the aftermarket rods you used? Thanks again!
Good morning sir, I bought mine from a place in Irving, Texas called Heavyquip. Look them up. They have several branches in several states. Thank you for the nice comment, if you have any questions please let me know.
@@SalamSayhood Great, thanks for the information!
You are welcome
What type of red grease are you using? Is it high temp bearing grease?
Yes sir,
Thanks for the quick reply. Your video is excellent. I wish I had your video when I rebuilt the dipper cylinder on my 310D back in 2010. I’m getting ready to do the left steering, right bucket and left stabilizer and I have to re-do the dipper cylinder again.
You are welcome, I appreciate your comment.
How come my swing Arm will only go to the right, and it will go to the left. But very, very slowly. And both Cylinders were just rebuilt. What is my issue?
Did it do that before you rebuilt the swing cylinders?
@@SalamSayhood yes
Did you check the value that controls the swing? Did you check if there are any mechanical issues with all the hinge points? Also make sure all the linkages from the stick that operates the swing to the valve are good and the hydraulic tank is full.
@@SalamSayhood Where is the Vaule at the bottom of the linkage ?
Yes, right above the swing cylinders. To know which valve, just follow the hoses from the swing cylinders.
If the steering is hard to turn wot is problem?
I need more information, type of the machine? is the steering hard in one direction or both? what troubleshooting you did so far? is there any mechanical problem with the steering linkage? does it stay hard to turn on low and high RPM?
Both direction my mesin also jd 310D
@@roberttewtew1462 for me to be able to help you, I need to know: what troubleshooting you did so far? is there any mechanical problem with the steering linkage? does it stay hard to turn on low and high RPM? Have you replaced the hydraulic filter? Do you have other hydraulic problem? if you lift the front tires off the ground, is the steering stay hard? Any other information would be great. Good luck
Presio por la 310 $
Quiere saber cuánto pagué cuando compré la retroexcavadora o cuál fue el costo de repararla?
@@SalamSayhood ando buscando una rretro q qieran bender aeso merrefiero al guna rretro q tengas ala benta
Si está comprando una retroexcavadora vieja, la serie John Deere 310 es una buena retroexcavadora, el precio depende de la calidad. La mía fue fácil de arreglar y encontré las piezas en línea por poco dinero.
@@SalamSayhood me interesa una 310 E tienes alguna ala benta o al guna q tusepas q este ala benta amigo
Encontré el mío en el mercado de Facebook. se lo compré a un particular. puede buscar en línea (mercado de Facebook, craigslist o subasta de equipos). También puede verificar y ver si tiene un concesionario de equipos usados en su área.
Porque no da avante
haverá mais vídeos sobre a retroescavadeira, obrigado.
there will be more videos to come about the backhoe, thank you.