The last device destroyed a rope
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- Опубліковано 5 лип 2024
- Tom Pendley and I wanted to see if a CMC Capto slipped like they claimed. Petzl Rescucenders are believed to slip and that is stated clearly in the description at hownot2.com/pksafety, but it bites so hard that it destroys the rope. The goal is to have something grab the rope that will slip before it breaks it.
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00:00 What is the Capto
02:49 Pull tests
07:39 Chart of results
Chart with our results at 07:39
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Is test nr 8 correct? 0.42 seems so low compared to 2.06 1:1
As a Rescue tech that specializes in high angle rope rescue, I really appreciate all these new gear videos. We actually built our own slack table to test out our gear because of you!
As a broom teChniTIon, I really appreciate these videos too.
I do hope you're doing well enough with the store to make all this worth it, you provide a lot of great information for users of rope of all kinds. Thanks Jenksy, much appreciated
fluted sheaves are standard and have been standard on sailboats forever, both in passive clutches and blocks. they do not destroy ropes. the forces on a 40 foot boat's main sheet in 15 knots is much more than a climber can generate, our ropes last a long time and the damage that causes failure is eventually chaff, salt or sun. or all.
Can you test the capto on the drop tower as a peak force limiting progress capture device for top rope solo on hyperstatic and/or dynamic ropes?
ropes are supposed to be under tension when measuring their diameter. EN standard is 10kg tension for single ropes....not sure about double, twin, or static ropes. this is why your calipers always read fatter than what the rope label says. pretty sure weight per length is also supposed be under tension...
I'm autistic, so I had to verify this. Here's what I found. The very last sentence is the most important and relevant one...
"According to EN 12385-4, the tolerance range for measuring the diameter of a rope under tension is between -0% and +5% of the nominal diameter for ropes with a nominal diameter of 8 mm or more. For smaller ropes, the tolerance range is usually higher. For example, ropes with a nominal diameter of 3-7 mm may have a higher tolerance range.
The diameter tolerance is usually specified as a percentage of the nominal diameter. For example, if a rope has a nominal diameter of 28 mm and a tolerance of +2% to +5%, then the measured diameter could be between 28.56 mm and 29.12 mm.
***In critical cases, it's recommended to measure the effective diameter of a rope while it's loaded with 5% of its calculated breaking strength."***
@@Knot-orious so that would be ~1kn on a typical ~22kn climbing rope. That's a lot higher than i would have thought, but 5% as a rule does make sense
@@wyattroncin941 And for a 32kN static arborist rope (the kind that I climb on), 5% would be about 1.6kN. It definitely makes sense since 1Kn-1.6kN is roughly equivalent to the weight of one to two heavy climbers. For reference, 1kN is equal to 224lb force. My guess is that the 5% of the ropes MBS was chosen due to a) it representing a value that is roughly equivalent to the maximum amount of force applied to most climbing ropes (a climber plus their gear or hauling up gear bags), and b) because 5% of MBS is almost always enough force to ensure that a rope (and its core and sheath for example, if it's kernmantle) will be reduced down to its true diameter. My guess is that, beyond 5% of MBS, the rope's diameter likely either doesn't get any smaller or it maybe gets a tiny bit smaller, but to a negligible degree. I hope this makes sense to anyone who actually takes the time to read this comment! I'm obviously speculating here, at the end, but it makes sense to me! =-D
Nice work Ryan
Awesome peace of gear!
Good job
I don’t know if you have already covered this but I’d be interested to see how it compares to the ct cric and where you see the difference in the style of application for both devices.
I imagine it would act just like a micro attraction as it is a toothed cam device. I would imagine it would de-sheath at close to 6KN.
Will be nice to see a comparison between the cmc capto vs. petzl rescuescender with petzl rollclipz
He already did a rescuecender video he shared a clip of it at the beginning
Capto > rollclip (or single pulley + carabiner) + rescuescender. Just got a capto at work (CS rescue tech) & been playing with it. Super quick & easy, and it feels super quality. Also works as a hand ascender, kind of, for rope walking (takes some getting used to), & i like it better than an ascender + rollclip for Rad'ing
Do a movie review on the best climbing video's, Is the Iger sanction realistic?
What's a "My-Aestro", Tom?! Surely the word "Maestro" has made it to the little country of America?!
"man load" gear slipping at 300-500 kg or even 1000 kg (9810kN) isn't a problem really... Destroying gear is a problem - tearing people in half is even worse (reasons for manually operated and actuated (muscle power) man hauling equipment - powered winches are very dangerous without adequate limits and controls.
Are you planning to make more climbing videos ? Lately it seems it’s all about gear.
Wasn't the last video just about rope soloing and how they're shooting rope soloing videos?
@@choss0 last video was like Q&A on rope solo…no actual climbing
@@thedanishvikingpilgrim5753 Yeah but they also said they're doing rope soloing videos so that's going to have actual climbing whenever it's ready
Gotta load up the store
Are you climbing without any gear? Is this an Alex Honnold burner account?